GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

csotb · February 2001

You both state that you've mounted 265/75 16 Michelins on your trucks, but OEM size is either LT245/75 16 or P265/70 16. Did you have your computers re-calibrated and if so, who did it? We have a 2000 K2500 Suburban with Firestone Steeltex tires and I'd like to upgrade the tires both in quality (probably the M. LTXs) and size, but I've been put off by the problem of having to get the computer re-calibrated to account for the extra inch of diameter over stock tire size. Thanks in advance for any info.

gritch · February 2001

Does anyone have any experience towing a suburban behind a motor home? Is it better to have 2WD or 4WD? are all Chev/GMC 4WD the same? I am looking to buy a new suburban with the intent of towing it. My expectation is to tow it behind a diesel pusher. Any suggestions as to the size of motor needed to accomplish this?

Has any one had experience in towing a 2WD with a transmission lockout?

Any information about experience you have had would be appreciated

azbass · February 2001

I haven't had mine recalibrated. Originally I had planned on it, but I just adjust for it. It's about 3 mph off at 70 so to go 70 I drive about 67 indicated. I may look into getting it recalibrated at some point, but it's not really a big deal to me.

rpi · February 2001

Thanks vinnie. I am getting use to the XL ride. It does handle well but where did you get the idea I am used to my dads oldsmobile ride. I own a 99 Vette and a BMW 540 so I do like a firm ride. I just feel the road more than I expected with this truck. I should have ordered the autoride option. Anyway as far as csotb is concerned, I had the dealer install P265/70/R16 LTX M/S tires in place of the LT265/75/R16.

muncho · February 2001

I have done a lot of towing of a 2500 lb. race boat with various station wagons and sedans with 5 liters and a Ford club wagon with a 5.7 liter. The 5 liter cars can't hold 70 mph up long hills, especially with the A/C on. The 5.7 liter van does better -- you have to push it hard, but it holds 70 on most hills.

I am going to buy a suburban for the 1st time and would love people's opinions as to whether I will be satisfied with the towing power of the 5.3 liter or whether I go to the 3/4 ton and 6.0 or 8.1 liter. I am basically more interested in power than fuel economy and would go with the power if it were my car, but this is going to be my wife's kid hauler during the week, and don't want to subject her to a heavier duty ride of the 3/4 ton unless the 1/2 ton 5.3L is going to be a slug on the hills when towing. All comments from your experiences are appreciated.

skipjack2 · February 2001

Picked up in Charleston SC Friday a week ago. Got aprox 15 MPG on 330 mile drive back to FL. Pulled my 3000 Lb bass boat 405 miles last Thursday, getting me over the 1000 mile mark and got 11.9 MPG, using the Tow/Haul position and 58/62 MPH. I think it uses more gas (higher RPM) in Tow/Haul position. Although stiffer than my 97 Tahoe, the ride is good and secure feeling. I have been trying to upgrade my Toomstone Steeltex 245/75/16E to 265/75/16 E./D. So far only offered $25 per tire trade even at Toomstone factory outlets. Any body have a suggestion? I have noticed a problem towing in Tow/Haul and I posted the following on the Saltwater Fishing Page. any comments appreciated:
I towed my Bass Boat last Thursday 405 miles, and I noticed that in the Tow/Haul position, it did not go into overdrive. Bass Boat and trailer weighs less than 3000 lbs and I have towed it in drive with a Tahoe, 3.42 rear end and my new 3/4 Suburban is a 6.0 engine and 4.10 rear end. I was told that I could tow in overdrive. With the Tahoe, 5.7 engine, I always towed in Drive. I also towed a 8000 lb Contender and trailer. (weighed it) I figured that the Suburban should have been in overdrive on flat hiway, doing 55/60 MPH. When I would take it out of Tow/Haul, the truck would shift to overdrive and stay there when I went back to Tow/Haul, even going over the overpasses, which I expected it to do. I tried the same proceedure and the same thing happened with my Contender (8000) load. Its almost like tricking the tow/haul in to overdrive. Has anyone else experienced this with a Chev/GMC 3/4 truck 6.0 engine?? I'm wondering if there is a problem with my shift points in Tow/Haul position. Any input apreciated. Skipjack

heatwave3 · February 2001

Just traded in my 3/4 ton 4x4 Silv Sub for a new Denali XL (1/2 ton with 6.0L). The 3/4 ton was not even in the same category of comfort as the new vehicle but that may be comparing apples and oranges since the new 3/4's are a whole new breed for the previous generation I traded in. The old 3/4 ton was rated to tow 10,000lbs.

I eventually decided to go with Denali XL which provided the comfort of 1/2 ton (no leaf springs) for everyday driving with the 320hp of the 6.0L for towing. The 6.0L in the Denali has 20 more hp than the 6.0L in the 3/4 due to a diffent exhaust and intake manifold. The Denali XL is rated to tow 8400 lbs which meets my needs. If you need more towing capacity you'll definitely need the 3/4 ton with the 8.1L (340hp) and significant more ft lbs of torque and a tow rating up to 12,000 lbs. Which BTW is the highest tow capacity for any SUV.

jgmilberg · February 2001

I have a 3/4 ton 4WD '01 Yukon XL, wouldn't trade it for the world!! The gas milage for the 6.0 L is about the same as your '94, 15 MPG. I have autoride, a MUST! I test drove the 3/4 ton and 1/2 ton models with and without autoride, no matter what the dealer tells you it DOES make a difference in both models, worth every penny. If I had to compare it, your '94 sub., if it is a half ton,will ride about the same as the 3/4 ton with autoride. The 1/2 ton rides like a dream with autoride, without autride it still rides considerably better than the old ones. I chose the 3/4 ton for the heavy duty frame/driveline. The power difference is there, but not very noticeable off the line, but if you tow, you will know!

As far as Heatwave 3's comments on the Denali XL 6.0 and the 3/4 ton HP ratings, he is dead wrong!! Both have HP ratings of 320HP. The intake and exhaust are the same! You get a fancy intake cover and exhaust tip, that's all. Check the specs in the brochures or at you local dealer. They changed the heads on the '01 to aluminum, bringing the HP up to 320 from the '00's 300, it had cast iron heads.

Where towing is concerned,if you get a 3/4 ton with 3:73 rear gears, like mine, you can tow up to 10K pounds so there is an in between. The Denali XL is rated at 8400 pound because of the rear coil springs. The other thing about the Denali XL is it has autoride and it rides about the same as a regular 1/2 ton w/ autoride, the towing cap. on a regular 1/2 ton is lower because of the 5.3 L engine and trans, combo.

In the Denali XL you are also locked into the automatic 4WD, if you want to go into 2WD you can't, there is also no 4WD low to help you out of a real jam or tow up a steep incline.

I don't really like the 8.1L engine. It is just a warmed over, stroked out 454 with a new intake,and ignition system. If you opt for that motor you HAVE to get autoride. One other thing about the 8.1L engine that I am not comfortable with is the throttle by wire system. There is no cable on the thing at all, your pedal is a switch that tells the COMPUTER to open the throttle blade. The pedal feels funny too. I am very sceptical about this "new" technology, they tried it on the diesels about 5 years ago and it flopped. One positive note about the 8.1 is that the new 5 speed automatic should be available as an option in 2002 8.1L equiped vehicle, be it truck or SUV. That should greatly improve fuel economy. It is the required trans. on the new diesel coming is 2002 as well.

heatwave3 · February 2001

Thanks for the correction on the 2001 3/4 upgrade to the intakes on 6.0L. I thought the upgrade was only on the Denali's for 2001 with plans to upgrade the 3/4 intakes in 2002.

I am actually a big fan of the 3/4 as I owned Chevy 2500 Sub's from '85 (350ci - 3.73) and '92 (454ci - 4.10). Both Silverado's and each one was better than the previous one so I am confident the new 3/4 generation is even better.

One thing I found since I owned both vehicles for relatively lengthy periods of time was that the suspensions got harsher over time. My unproven suspicion was that the rear leaf springs stiffen as they age giving a bouncier ride when unloaded.

If the primary use is heavy towing, you simply can't beat the 3/4. However I do believe you will trade off riding comfort in the long run based on long term experiences with 2 of them, which may not be a big deal if your Yukon XL is not a daily commuter. My view is that if you can have the power of the 6.0L with the comfort and handling of the 1/2 you have the best of both worlds.

I wanted more comfort for routine trips with as high a tow capacity for boating season as possible and the Denali XL fit the bill (Also as I age, the creature comforts have become more important than raw towing capacity and the Denali comes with more of them). As a side note, many on this site have expressed disappointment in the sound system of the standard Yukon's, by comparison the 250watt Bose in the Denali is tremendous.

BTW, the Denali comes with a 3.73 rear end the same as the 3/4 6.0L. Just to clarify, the Denali has permanent AWD with a limited slip rear differential which is significantly different from an automatic 4wd. There is a great discussion on the differences under a different topic in this forum. Having alot of experience with two previous generations of GM HD 4wd over 16 years, I can honestly tell you that you would never go back to a normal 4wd after driving this new AWD system unless you did back country driving and needed the 4wd low alternative.

vinnie6 · February 2001

The nice thing about the 2001 year model over the 2000 model is that dealers have a good stock of models to test drive, at least in Central Texas. You can go down to your friendly Chevy or GMC dealer and test drive all the different configurations until you find the one that's right for you.

As for all out towing power, the 3/4 with the 8.1 engine is the clear choice. However, your 2500 pound boat is easily towed by the half-ton and given the "normal" use of hauling kids around it might be your best bet. If you are worried about the 5.3 having enough starch to pull the boat up long grades, consider the 6.0 liter in the Denali XL. Here you are getting the 1/2 ton ride with the larger engine. Although you will pay a premium for this vehicle, I'm hearing that dealers are making good deals.

That having been said, you really owe it to yourself to try the 3/4 ton with 8.1 and Autoride. I continue to be amazed at the ride quality. I certainly don't share jgmilberg's view of this engine. It is turbine smooth, quick off the line (I have a hard time keeping my foot out of it), and a blast to drive. This latest version of the "rat" motor is a major improvement on a reliable, powerful workhorse that has proven itself for decades.

Sometimes new technology is not the right answer. GM decided against multiple overhead cams and other trick stuff and stayed with pushrods for the latest Corvette engines. These engines are the basis for the "small block" engines in GMs SUVs.

Haven't noticed any pedal feel problem with the throttle by wire. And anyone who thinks that having a throttle cable puts the driver in total control of his engine is unaware of the computer control of nearly every engine/transmission parameter. Fly by wire has been the norm for modern aircraft for years. (In the F16, for example, there isn't a single cable connecting the pilot to the control surfaces. It's all electronic.) Drive by wire is the logical next step. Look for brakes to be done this way next.

muncho · February 2001

Thanks for all the comments. Sounds like you all decided that you needed more capability than the 5.3 engine. Is there anyone out there who could comment on the towing abilities of a 1/2 ton with the 5.3?

Skipjack, how does the 6.0 compare to the 5.7 in your tahoe for towing your 3000 lb boat up long hills?

muncho · February 2001

If it were going to be my personal vehicle, I would get the 8.1 with no hesitation. I always regretted not getting the 460 V8 in the Ford Club wagon I have. These are big vehicles and they need big engines in them not to feel like pigs even when not towing.

However, this is going to be mostly my wife's vehicle, so I don't want to be too selfish about its configuration. I test drove a Denali XL last weekend and was not that impressed with the power. I suppose it was ok. But my opinion is that if I'm going to spend the extra cash to get more power, I might as well get the 8.1. But if the 5.3 will do the trick for a 2500 lb boat and not piss me off too much on the hills, and the suspension will be better for my wife, then I'll just cut a great deal on a 1/2 ton off the lot.

heatwave3 · February 2001

I am not sure, however I think you will find that 320 hp in a 6.0L 1500 series is going to "feel" more powerful and accelerate harder than 340hp in an 8.1 2500 (if there is a difference in feel it will be more likely due to the 4.10 rear in the 2500 versus the 3.73 rear in the Denali). Let us know if you do a seat of the pants comparison.

Based on lbs/hp the Denali should be "quicker" as the 2500 weighs more than the 1500. I believe the 0-60 times will bear that out. There is still no replacement for cubic inches however, if maximum towing capacity is what you need since ft lbs of torque is what matters (455ft lbs - 8.1L vs. 365 ft lbs - 6.0L)

skipjack2 · February 2001

I drove a Denali and a 3/4 GMC Sub before I bought the Chev Sub. I liked the idea of a 1500 with the 6.0 3.73 combo. My boat weighs 8000 lbs with fishing load and the Denali would have handled it. How ever the dealer let me pull my boat and I felt the suspension was a little soft for the tongue weight. This was not an XL. Also the Autoride on the Denali has leveling and it raised my trailer hitch up and I had a hard time geting it off the ball as a result. I still leaned towards the Denali because of the fancy options, like the mileage computer. I did not like the plastic look of the front end and in the final anaylsis, I went for the leaner look of the Yucon SL/Suburban, with the normal bumper. The 3/4 models do not have the leveling on Autoride. I had a hard time finding a 3/4 with 6.0, 4 WD, 4.10 rear end and Autoride. My GMC dealer could not find one and my Chevy Dealer found one in Charleston, 325 miles, and he said it was to far to go for a swapp, so I drove up and bought it. I had to take it with a Sun Roof and Green color, but I have a Green boat and it is fine. Even enjoyed the see-through roof driving at night, full moon. As to Muncho's question comparing the 5.7 on my Tahoe to the new Sub's pulling the Bass boat (3000 lbs). I pulled the bass boat in o/drive with the Tahoe and it would jump back to drive on the overpasses. In overdrive, the Sub cruises right over no change. The big diffenrence is the RPM's. I am turning about 2050 at 60 MPH with the Sub and the Tahoe in O/drive would be about 1900. I think I will be ok if I can tow my 8000 lb boat in O/drive most of the time on flat roads. For the weight of the Sub, it has amazing take off if I floor it. (for a few seconds, then let off!!) I am trying to up grade my tires to 265/75/16's from the 245's. (E's 10 ply Firestone Steeltex) No one wants to trade or give me more than $25. for these $125. tires. Any ideas. I feel the 265's will reduce my rear end ratio to 3.96 and maybe give me a little better gas mileage, a side benefit. I think the larger tires will fill the wheel wells better and I like the raised white letters. This is geting too long. Skipjack

joegraz · February 2001

Have an '01 XL 2500 on order, and I have read an awful lot on cold air infiltration on the passenger side. Are the newer units still coming with this problem? Has ANYONE seen a fix yet?

jpmack · February 2001

I don't have it with me right now, but I'm sure the manual of my new 'Burb (2001 2500/8.1) says not to use tire chains. Is this for real? What should I take to Tahoe next week, where the snow is falling fast and furious?

re: mileage: after 3500 miles, I'm averaging 11.4 mpg, mostly freeway, 3.73 rear end. Gotta say I love this car/truck, _vast_ improvement over my '95 2500/454. Only problem is that my wife wants one now!

nellcoop · February 2001

We just purchased a 2001 Sub TL and we live in New England. The cold air coming through the passenger's side on legs and feet is very disheartening after spending nearly $40,000 on a new car! You can literally reach your hand underneath near the glove compartment and there is hole of cold steel and cold air filtering in defeating the excellent heating system in this car. I've read that they have no remedies yet. It's such a wonderful car and we are so disappointed that we have cold feet in our brand new vehicle!

jgmilberg · February 2001

I have driven the Denali XL and noticed no real difference in the way it acted than when my Yukon XL is in Auto 4WD. I have tried various different, although self devised tests, to see if there was a true difference. I tried the old brake torque trick, neither would brake loose from take off, even at the high 3k ram I loaded it up to. Tried splashing through puddles, and trying "sharp" emergency type turns. I have even gone out in an unplowed parking lot and tried various turns and twirls, to no avail I see no true difference. All of this is of course done during off peak times. I do actually find myself using auto 4WD in the ever changing Michigan winter. I love it. You don't have to think about it it's just there. I did notice a mileage difference of a measly 1 mpg, in Auto 4WD. Is the AWD the thing that they claim "Takes the power from the wheels that slip to the wheels that grip"? I do understand how that works with the abs system applying pressure on the wheel that is slipping. But with a locking rear diff. the front wheels are the only ones that that system would benefit.

You spoke about the rear leaf vehicles getting stiffer with age, this is partially true, as the leafs get older they tend to bond/rust together, making for a stiffer ride. The experience I have had with coil spring rear suspension is only with cars, but it holds true with all coil spring cars. Over time the rear end starts sagging and after about 5-7 years the weight carring capicity will slowly get lower. I am not sure if GM has worked that one out yet. I can say without a doubt the coil springs are a better ride than the leafs.

I have had my XL for about 3 months and have not noticed a cold air problem on the passenger side, although I am not over there. Do you have the same problem that the other XL owners are complaining of in your Denali XL?

I do agree with you on the stereo, a totally different animal in the Denali XL. The bass from the sub really stands out where it needs to be and the highs from the A-pillar mounted tweets is outstanding!! I have been considering speaker upgrades to aftermarket 3 ways in mine, the factory dual cones are just too muddy. I am also considering a sub upgrade with a possible amp to give it the punch it lacks.

jpmack · February 2001

My mistake - I re-read the manual, and the no-chain warning only applies to certain tire sizes - not the factory installed tire (245R16). Sorry 'bout that.

jgmilberg · February 2001

I don't see your point about the computer control and the throttle. The computer controls a bunch of stuff. On a jet there are 3 redundent systems, and I can say without a doubt that GM has not thought it out really well. I work for them and when I see it on the Caddilac's that I build I will put some stock behind it. The 2 or 3 wires it takes to go up to the servo are cheaper that the cable, the servo and pedal switch may negate the cost though, BUT if it saves on labor costs they will push ahead with it. I dunno maybe I am an old fuddy duddy about it. I just look at it as something else that will cost lots of money to fix later down the road. I do agree with new technology paving the way but cable have worked well for over 100 years, why change now?!

The engine however is old technology and new technology combined, they took the best, in my opinion, ignition system and put it on an old design. I beleive the design is proven and relaible from a mechanical standpoint, but that throttle thing just brings back memorys of when audi's were flying through walls from unexpected acceleration. I didn't deny the power output of the motor,GM makes all of the cars come off the line very controlled, it is in the programming of the thing to save on gas. I did not try to torque it up and take off. There is never a replacement for displacement, and that motor has it and the power to prove it. I was slightly dissapointed to see that they just didn't use the 502, oh well, guess the general has it's reasons. Besides i guess 494CID is close enough.

The XL I test drove had a really spongy feel to it and the motor responded kind of slow when you try to give it a couple of quick revs. Not as snappy as the 6.0 from an rpm point of view. It was a first run 8.1 and they may have fine tuned it out by the time you had gotten yours.

The ride quality is amazing and the power transfer from fron to back at takeoff is really good with the 8.1, and the 6.0. I think one of the determining factors for me was the mileage, the dealer said he was only getting 9.5 gpm on his demo and that really got me. Not sure if you saw my other posting but I live in Michigan and last year in the summer we really got nailed with gas prices, in my area they got to $2.47 a gal, while less than 50 miles away the price was $1.99/gal. Now that I see people getting 11.5 - 12 mpg, I may have taken it more seriously. I was getting around that with my old van, and it wouldn't have been a big change. Hell I may have even waited for the 5 speed auto they are going to make available with the 8.1 next year, that should bring it up to around 13 mpg. I am a power crazed lunny any way, just needed to keep it grounded when it came to operating cost.

chevydude2 · February 2001

Muncho... I have a '00 Yukon XL / 4wd, 1sl,
5.3 L,autoride, etc and tow a 32' travel trailer and have loved the vehicle. Tows great -- does not seem to lose power in hills, etc. The tow/haul mode works very slick. Other Sub was a '96 w/350 -- this 5.3 seems to wind out quicker, but has good torque. I run about 65-70 when I tow and get 11-11.5 mpg --- much better than my '96. Hope this helps. Just be SURE to get the autoride option...

rleonard · February 2001

IN A WORD NO. TRY IT BEFORE YOU BUY IT.

vinnie6 · February 2001

I have read that one of the reasons manufacturers are going to throttle by wire (and eventually brake by wire and, who knows, steering by wire) is that it allows them tremendous flexibilty in controlling the engine. With a throttle cable, the action is essentially linear or, if not linear, fixed. A given amount of pedal movement will allways result in a given amount of throttle opening.

With throttle by wire one can insert the computer into the electronic connection between the the pedal and the throttle. In deciding how much to move the throttle, the computer can consider many more parameters than simply the pedal position. Among these are current gear, the speed at which the pedal was depressed, engine speed, whether a wheel is slipping (from the ABS data) and a host of other parameters. It is just one more way to fine tune the way the vehicle responds to the driver's desire and the situation.

The only objections I have heard voiced over the throttle by wire (other than your comment on pedal feel which I hadn't heard before and haven't noticed myself) is that there could be a danger of a "run-away" engine. I suppose it could happen, but the fail safes built into the system are at least as good as the old throttle return spring we all knew in the days of carburetors. I can't be the only one who ever had that bad-boy spring fall/break off the front mount of a Rochester coke-bottle four barrel and have a wide open throttle. At least today we have electronic engine speed limiters to replace the mechanical speed limiters (rod thru the block or valve hitting piston) of the old days. And in the end one can always turn off the engine.

I had heard about the "spongy" feel of the 8.1 versus the 6.0 in this forum and others. I bought my Suburban site-unseen and was nervous about it. However, I haven't noticed anything of the sort on my truck. As a reformed drag-racer (reformed means: "who can afford this anymore?") I am sensitive to throttle tip in and other such stuff. It leaps off the line just fine for me. If it hadn't, I'm quite certain that our friends at HyperTech will soon have a reprogammed computer control available to undo GMs socially responsible tuning.

Surely you know, BTW, that Audi was cleared of all blame on the "unintended acceleration' episode. Turns out it was driver "pedal confusion", pressing hard on the accelerator to get the vehicle to stop.

Couldn't agree with you more on the ride of the 2500s. I put this off to Autoride and would strongly recommend that anyone getting the 3/4 include Autoride on their shopping list.

j2smell · February 2001

Did GM ever find the problem or a cure for the noise or resonance at 20 MPH that was being experienced on some of the early 2000 Yukon xl's and Suburbans?

heatwave3 · February 2001

I have not found any cold spots in my DXL however I don't have a lot of miles yet (less than a 1000) and substantially less with anyone in the front passenger seat.

Your experience with the 4wd auto vs. awd is interesting. All of my previous 4wd experience did not include a 4wd auto mode. It would seem that 4wd auto gives a similar effect to awd, however I would be interested if anyone knows what the power bias is front and rear between GM's 4wd auto mode and the new AWD?

You may want to check into the sound system upgrade carefully as I recall many posts in the Spring of last year where owners were trying many changes including preamps, different speakers and various other strategies to improve the sound, without much success. Good Luck on the sound upgrade, you may want to post for this forum with any success achieved.

As another side note, the trip computer and radio controls on the steering wheel have turned out to become routinely used in everyday driving and would be sorely missed. Seems strange they don't offer it as a upgrade to the Yuokon's, although I suppose its a bunch of features like these that move people like me into the upgraded Denali.

drew_ · February 2001

The AutoTrac 4WD system does not transfer power to the front wheels until it detect rear wheel slippage. So basically, most of the time it is a RWD vehicle. When slippage is detected, it will progressively transfer power to the front wheels till there is minimal difference between the speed of the front wheels and the rear wheels (that's how it knows that there is slippage).

GM's new permanent AWD system splits the power 35/65 in no-slip conditions. I believe the torque split ratio can vary from this figure though, depending on the amount of slippage there is.

Drew
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jgmilberg · February 2001

I don't know how often I would use the trip computer, but I do know I most definitly would use the steering wheel radio controls! I wish they had them as an option on mine, I would've ordered it that way. The punks at GM will more than likely make it an option on next years model. Like they did with the trucks and the automatic climate control.

One thing I really wanted was a disc changer and that's what you got in the DXL, what I really like about it is it is controlled by the head unit not an outside controller. There are a few companies out there with converters that plug into the factory head unit (ie: Kenwood,Alpine), but if you have OnStar you can not use thier converters unless you totally disconnect OnStar, I haven't needed to use the OnStar feature yet but if I did I would like to know it is there. I will have to go with an aftermarket with controller if I decide it is a real nessesity. I do however have plans to change the factory remote tape deck to a cd player, if it is possible, and get the correct bezel to match(cd is a little wider). The 2000 model had a tape player in the head unit and a cd remote in the console, so it should work. I have no tapes and absolutely no use for the tape deck at all. I also hate having something in the vehicle that never gets used and takes up space, my feeling is if you don't want it at least let the customer delete it instead of ramming it down the throat of the consumer. With the rear seat audio controls a cd player would be a better choice for the rear passengers that want to listen to their own thing.

Where the audio upgrade is concerned, all I want to acomplish is get the highs in there. The two and three way speakers should do the trick. When we start talking bass, all of my previous cars/trucks have had a sub and amp installed in them by me. I am not sure about how GM did it so some more reasearch is in order. I do know that the speaker can be upgraded to an aftermarket one without much problem, it is a standard 8" sub, what I need to find out is what type of enclosure, if any, is used, how much depth is behind it, and if a louder speaker will just cause rattles. The amp shouldn't be a big deal, just something to get it to jump a little, no giant 600 watt deal, just something small 50W - 100W or so.

I use the factory harness connectors on the speakers, you can get them from your local car audio place, it just snaps into the original plug and provide regular speaker connectors on the other side, the really nice thing about these is that it doesn't void the warranty. It also makes it easy to add on an amp for the sub, all you need then is the power wires. Sounds a lot easier than it is, it is really worth having a pro install the door speakers 'cause if they screw up the door pad they gotta pay for it! Just make sure to specify those adapters, don't let them hack up your wires!! I highly doubt yo will be doing any upgrading to your system in the DXL, but it is a word of advise if you should happen to blow one, or for another car/truck you may have.

gpm5 · February 2001

I'm considering suburbans '99 with the autotrac. Interesting that you find no big difference between the feel of the autotrac vs AWD denali. I have wondered how spontaneous the autotrac transfer is to the front wheels. Can you give me a feeling for that? Does the rear end fishtail easily if you hit the gas hard in a snowy/slick parking lot at lets say 10 mph or do the front wheels grab hold quickly to pull you out of it? Thanks.

muncho · February 2001

About how much does your 32' travel trailer weigh?

What do you mean that the 5.3 seems to wind out quicker?

heatwave3 · February 2001

jgmilberg: I could be wrong and maybe someone out there can correct me, but I think I recall last year when people were posting about the standard Yukon radio that the On Star is somehow tied into the radio. The On Star made it difficult to get the intended benefits you might be trying to achieve through additional power or better speakers. Several tried as I recall but posted that they were disappointed with results.

But where there is a will there is a way and I am sure someone has been successful in a sound upgrade in the Yukon. Is there any reason the radio from the Denali couldn't be purchased and swapped for your current unit? The more I listen to the Bose the more I am thrilled with it. To my ears it has a more powerful bass with crisper details than the systems I have had in a BMW 740iL or a 535i.

You might not get the full effect that the Denali has with the extra speakers, but I would bet the sound would be substantially better than it is today with a simpler conversion if the wiring harnesses are the same for both vehicles.

eversons · February 2001

Even though my new Yukon XL had the best sounding GM stereo I have ever heard, I wanted to have a better sounding system. I went to several installation shops and checked a lot of web sites. After much consideration, decided to replace the entire audio system.

I had Boston Acoustic separates for the front, BA coaxials for the rear doors, and a JL Audio 10 inch sub woofer installed in the center armrest.
We put in 2 Xtant amps: 4 x 50 watts and 1 x 120 watts where the old subwoofer was in the back.
For the head unit I purchased a Pioneer CD player, the primary motivator here was that the Pioneer fits the odd sized opening in the dash.
The install shop offered to connect a powered speaker to OnStar so that that service could be maintained. I have never used OnStar in 42 years, so I took a pass on that.
Total cost of the upgrade $3,200.00 installed. If I shopped the internet and did the work myself, I think I could have cut that cost in half.
The system sounds great! The subwoofer doesn't send ripples through the pavement, but it certainly fills the truck with plenty of bass.

lumpman · February 2001

I'm considering trading my 96 Burb in for an off lease 2000. My 96 has the liftgate with the wiper, which has been most handy. The 2000 I'm looking at has the cargo doors. Does anyone know of an aftermarket wiper kit for the cargo doors?

550maranello · February 2001

My wife and I are thinking about buying a used Suburban. It's a 1993, 4x4, 1500 LS. It has relatively low miles and appears in good shape. We are planning to have our mechanic look at it before we purchase. My question is, are there any problems inherent in this model or model year that we should be aware of and have our independent mechanic look for in his evaluation of the car? Thank you in advance for your response.

jgmilberg · February 2001

If the Autotrac system and the Auto 4X4 are the same system, no real noticeable fish tailing, the front wheels grab fairly quickly. I noticed the biggest difference coming out of gravel lots, when I jam it the wheels spin for maybe 1-2 sec before the front kick in to get me on solid pavement, very helpful if you are entering a paved highly traveled/busy from a dirt/gravel road. Even when turning corners and jamming the gas. One thing is that with the locking/posi rearend I find it hard to do "doughnuts" in 2WD in the snow, I get about 3/4 of the way around and it rights itself. So if that helps at all, take it as you will. The locking diff pretty much cuts out a lot of the fish tailing effect in 2WD, it can still get away from you if you aren't careful but in Auto 4WD it makes things really difficult to get out of hand. I am not sure where Heatwave3 lives but he has a Denali XL and he can give you some input on AWD, and the way his reacts to different situations. The AWD on the Denali XL in the same gravel road senario had no real lag, it always has 35% on the front wheels so, when the rear slips the front is already in "drive" and moving, the rear locks up and sends more power to the front. I would say you get out about 1 second faster, but that is only by seat of the pants feel, never really timed it.

jgmilberg · February 2001

Heatwave3 - I thought about that and asked around at work and poked the brains of a couple design engineers. They said that the Bose system uses a different harness, and each speaker with the exception of the sub, which is still different, and tweets in the a-pillar have their own "mini-amp", and that they get a 4 wire connector instead of two, so if I did want to get a Denali system I would need the entire harness front to back, plus the speakers and a-pillars. Even at GM employee price, roughly half of dealer price,it would more than likely still bankrupt me. The only component I may consider would be the Bose sub, I think the connectors are the same so it would be a direct replacement.

Lumpman- No never found any cargo door wipers, if they had them I am sure you would've seen them on the conversion vans by now. I had 2 fullsize Dodge vans one with two cargo doors on the back and the other with one big door and window in the back. Now that I have the XL with the lifgate and wiper, would never get one without a wiper again. Not to mention the pillar that is between the windows is a real pain, I got bitten by a phone pole or two that got hidden in the space between the windows, and the constant cleaning was annoying. I never thought of it much until I got my XL but looking back I was stopping once a day in he winter to clean the back window(s). I think if you hold out for a liftgate you will be much happier. I think you will like the new style liftgate vs. your old tailgate setup or cargo doors.

jgmilberg · February 2001

How long ago did you order your XL?? Just curious I had to wait almost 5 months for them to build mine. To answer your question, no I have not noticed any cold spots and I asked the wife about it today and she said she didn't either.

jtbuff · February 2001

Believe me there are some cold spots on some Yukon XL'S. As I posted before,we have a 2001 Yukon XL with 4000 miles on it and on trips if you are on the passenger side you have to cover your legs to keep warm.I e-mailed GM and said that it's a shame that you pay almost 45,000 dollars for a vehicle and have to put up with something like that.Hope they find a fix for it soon.Hate to drive it for the next few years like this.Other than that really like the XL.

atr · February 2001

My wife complains that when she's driving the 'Burb that she's constantly gettting poor reception and static from the radio. Our first trip to the dealer they stated that there was a known grounding problem with the antenna and they fixed it. Our third trip to the dealer (they apparently have another customer with similar model having the same problems) resulted in a brand new head unit being installed. My wife called me from work this morning and said it is still occurring.

Anybody have any insight into the problem? I would really appreciate any information about known problems with the radio reception or if anyone else is having similar problems. Kind of hard to stomach paying so much for the new truck and having such a poor stereo unit. :-(

TIA,

Alan

heatwave3 · February 2001

I live in NJ where we have had a fairly sizable amount of snow (for our part of the country) and have had a good opportunity to experience the performance of AWD in pretty nasty conditions.

The interesting thing is there's not much to report. No floor shifter and no buttons to keep track of. Compared with my previous 4WD experiences in 3/4 Subs there is no sensation of being in 4wd. The car just has substantial grip in even the slipperiest conditions with no drivetrain whining or the feel of power transfering from one end to the other. It simply gives you a strong sense of confidence based on the traction in turns and acceleration even in slippery conditions.

I guess thats the point of awd ... no muss, no fuss. As others have noted the only downside is the lack of a 4wd lo for serious off-road conditions which in my previous two subs I experienced twice in 15 years. My primary use is moving family and friends around, long road trip vacations and towing a boat. For those purposes I believe the awd best meets my needs.

tombyrne · February 2001

I am currently looking at 96 - 97 Suburbans. Most have between 70k and 88K miles and range in price from 17k to 25K. My question is, should I be afraid of a 97 Suburban in good condition with 85000 miles for $18000 ? Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Tom

chevydude2 · February 2001

Muncho... 32' travel trailer weight about 6K loaded. Yukon XL pulls it great.... but the 5.3L engine (327), seems to be a little more responsive on the throttle than my "96 Burb with the (5.7L) 350 in it. But the best thing is the Autoride when you tow... Hope this helps.

vinnie6 · February 2001

I checked with my local Alpine dealer about a total upgrade on the marginal factory system. I asked him about the On-Star system and he said it was not a problem. He would use relays to integrate it into the Alpine system and it would work exactly like the factory setup. He said he had done it many times before. Haven't done it to my truck yet, but I'm confident it will work.

gritch · February 2001

Do not expect to find a solution to your radio reception problem! I have a 1995 Chev LT. I started to have problems after about a year. The antenna cable was replace three times and each time the reception was greatly improved for one to three months. The radio was replace one time with a new antenna cable and it provided good reception for about three months. I also went to a well respected radio/sound system installer and requested a new system. He discouraged me because of previous experience with other suburbans. His point was that suburbans frequently (but not always) experience bad reception (with the motor running) and regardless of the radio there seems to be no fix. I am on my third radio and while it is better than the 1st or second, it still has static on any stations that are not very strong. FM has not been a problem on any of the radios I have used.

cat1ia · February 2001

Has anyone heard about the 02' model of the bur having 6 doors? I recall these as being short doors above the rear wheelhouse. Allowing acess to the 3rd row of seats.

redgun · February 2001

Has anyone used the ON STAR GPS to drive a display in the car. I have heard that you can get the data off the serial port, if you can find it. I don't want to buy a separate GPS system if I can use the ON STAR output. I have '01 YXL 3/4 with 6.0 eng

camper77 · February 2001

I have owned a '91 Suburban for the past 10 years which now has 147,000 miles on it. I have had a pretty good experience with the vehicle. The engine has never been touched and uses about once quart of oil in 3000 miles. It has the original transmission - I have changed the fluid on regular basis. I have replaced the radiator, the starter motor and, just recently, the water pump and also the fuel pump. It has been quite reliable and is still a solid vehicle.

I think you would be fine with a high mileage '97 which has been well maintained. I would have it checked out by a trusted mechanic. You can expect the replace some mechanical components, but there is nothing extraordinary about this. My sense is the engine is good for 200K to 250K miles and the vehicle is quite robust. You will have to be patient with it at times since the reliability probably is somewhat lower than a brand new vehicle, but even my old '91 Suburban is ready to tow my camper 2000 miles without me losing any sleep.

eddieandkarl2 · February 2001

new incentive started feb 13 for 1.9% interest rate for three years.my yukon took 6 weeks from order to dealer delivery.

stever · February 2001

fwit, I have a friend who got an older Surburban a few years ago with high miles (100k +). He's had good luck with it, but all the original miles were California highway miles (supposedly it was a salesman's car and didn't sit in stalled traffic much).

Steve
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jimbo57 · February 2001

Ordered a 2001 3/4 ton Yukon XL in Nov. 2000 with a front bench seat. Wanted leather as well. Dealer told me no problem. If he couldn't get it from the factory, he could dealer install the leather. Waiting nearly four months for a build date and dealer says I may be one of two people in the world who have ordered this configuration and I'll have to keep on waiting. Sounds like I'll have a tough time ever getting it. Any similar situations out there?

buster27 · February 2001

I have a 96 3/4 ton Suburban LT with 70000 miles. Has been maintained meticulously since new. Only major problem happened about 5000 miles ago. Had to have the A/C compressor replaced. Nice truck.
Would be happy to sell. Waiting for a 2001 to come in any day.
If a vehicle has been maintained according to the book, and your mechanic takes a good look at it, I wouldn't be afraid of a truck with 85000 miles on it.

GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

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