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Chrysler Cirrus Starting/Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • tommy666tommy666 Member Posts: 9
    edited October 2010
    So I just put this new computer (ECM) in my car. It was running great. The first time I locked it and tried to reenter the anti theft comes on? I cannot get it to stop honking and blinking. Somebody said to try the key in the passenger door. Not working. I think my computer is for a later model with keyless entry?
  • bmwrider001bmwrider001 Member Posts: 2
    You do not mention what year Cirrus you have. I would like to expand on what you have noted, but need to know which year we are referring to first.

    When you say "If your car stops but will start again change your crank shaft position sensor." Are you saying that the car stalls, like when coming to a stop, and then will restart when you crank it over? Know of any test that you can run on the sensor?

    Have you ever experienced a sensation like a momentary power loss, but the engine doesn't stall, only jerks once?

    Any problems with excessive parasitic battery current draw, and the solution?

    thanks!
  • bpeoples2010bpeoples2010 Member Posts: 3
    Anyone with a 95 Chrysler cirrus and has stalling problems I have found solution after replacing fuel filter Crankshaft Positioner and some sort of air filter and 2 exams I have found out My cars alternator is to weak! The 95 Chrysler cirrus has so much eletric and it has to have a good battery and a good alternator in it to send enough voltage to certain parts of car 4 example my cars fan wasn't getting enough voltage so evreytime car fan turned on car stalled afterward because it took all that voltage alltenators are 130 at shops like Kragen & Autozone if you bring old one in
  • bpeoples2010bpeoples2010 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 95 Chrysler Cirrus LXI v6 and It has had stalling problems your all having I have had 3 exams I have a new crankshaft positioner air positioner thing and other parts youve all suggested nothing fixed it but I did after much research and asking many questions the 95 chrysler cirrus is a giant electric circuit it needs major voltage I had a bad battery and bad alternator I replaced both of them and the stalling problem gone! The alternator was key to send enough spark basically. Anytime my car fan turned on car would stall and it would turn on idling or at stops because all voltage and spark was going to fan. replace your alternantor and battery if needed people. Alternator's are about 130 at autozone, kragen, orileys as long as you bring the old one in
  • bpeoples2010bpeoples2010 Member Posts: 3
    Had same prob you did till I put in a new alternator
  • rusticsteelrusticsteel Member Posts: 2
    Was having problems starting car when damp outside. Would have to dry/warm with hair dryer for few minutes and it would start. Read codes at that time and I was getting Random/Multiple Misfire codes and Misfire on Cylinders 1, 3, & 5 codes (forget the actual code numbers.). Eventually it wouldn't start even with hair dryer.

    So I decided to change spark plugs and wires. Checked and double-checked plug gaps. Didn't solve my problem, but did get rid of misfire error codes. Next I decided it must be moisture getting into distributer cap, so I changed the cap and router. Great!! Solved problem and started right up. Well it ran for a little better then a day, then wouldn't start again.

    I decided to hook code reader up again. This time, no misfire codes. Instead, I have three new codes I didn't have before. They are as follows:

    Code P0123 -
    Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor Switch A Circuit High

    Code P0113 -
    Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High

    Code P1698 -
    No CCD/J1850 Message from TCM/PCM

    I double-checked that all the plugs to sensors were connected and snug. Seemed good. I am now at a loss on what to do next and it seems the more I read the more confused I get. Anyone have any ideas, I could use some direction on what to try next. Thanks in advance!!
  • rusticsteelrusticsteel Member Posts: 2
  • bmwrider001bmwrider001 Member Posts: 2
    I was driving home, about a 30 minute trip, after having dinner with my very good friend. It was a cold, dark and rainy night, with low visibility. I had no problem seeing that my alternator light was glowing red from my first start-up that night. I had driven up earlier in the day and was pleased with the way she was running, or so I thought. I had just installed a rebuilt ECM and had just located and repaired a short that had kept my odometer display and TCM relay energized causing my battery to drain for the last 4 or 5 years. I thought I was at the end of my woes, now the battery light glared at me, though the headlights illuminated my way down the Bayshore Freeway without nary a flicker. I proceeded confidently for the next 20 minutes or so. As I approached my turnoff to turn south, I stepped on the gas . . . and there was no response! I thought, huh? what now? For the next minute I repeatedly step on the gas pedal and there was nothing, yet I was still rolling at about 50MPH. I moved the gear selector from overdrive into 3rd and I regained operation of the throttle. It is a slight uphill to get onto Hwy 85, and I hoped that the engine would stay running and not strand me on the side of the road on a night like this. I was flying out for 2 weeks the following day and I would have time away to think about what was happening to me now. I do some of my best thinking in the air anyway, so that was indeed a very comforting thought. I left it in drive for several miles, slipped in into OD just to see what would happen, the void returned, stepping on the gas did nothing by increase my terror as the red warning lamp reminded me of the flames that could instantly result from an electrical meltdown, if that was what was happening to me now. Back into 3rd, control again was restored, I was about 5 miles away from home, clenching my teeth all the way. I debated making that one stop to refill the water bottles that I promised my roommate before I left. It was behaving for the most part, with trepidation I switched the ignition off while picturing how or if it would restart. The bottles were loaded into the back seat, I sat for a minute still pondering if it would turn over or not. It cranked at normal speed but did not start immediately, normally after firing, it would immediately stall, and it did. Upon restarting it, I watched with horror as first the tachometer needle dropped to zero, as I started to resume my journey home, I watched as the speedometer and then the coolant temp needle dropped to zero, the alternator light went off, then the instrument panel went totally dark and the red warning light of the alternator went back on. It was the longest mile of my life, driving from the water store to my condo in the only new car I had ever purchased, my 1995 Chrysler Cirrus, first year of production, last and only year of OBD-I electronics. I thought I had a car that would stay the course when I bought it, I now realized that it is now only a source of parts for other fated owners of this breed who think they too have mastered the reasons why their vehicle acts as it does. The responsibility I find is with the engineers that had chosen the wire to be used in the assembling of the wiring harnesses for the 2.5L variety that is at fault here. The insulation on the wires deteriorates (in the taped harnesses, not just below the distributor as some have stated) but under the intake plenum, and adjacent (on the cold side) of the underhood junction box. Who knows where else this defect exists? I am sure you will know if you stay with this forum, it is the only one that I am contributing this information to. You may wonder why I am sharing this story with you, I will leave you with that now. I was a career automotive driveability expert for 20 years, and for the next 10 years I worked with an electronic diagnostic tool company programming their tool to help other techs solve problems on today's cars. This car was at first a platform for testing and reverse engineering computer code and datastream information, as was my other vehicle, a 95 Chevrolet S-10 (which is still running well, I must say) though, it too has electrical problems not unlike those of my beloved and now dead Cirrus. I believed that I could fix anything automotive related from my many successes in the shop, under the hood and I believe that still. I now discover after leaving the industry that some vehicles simply cannot be repaired. Not because the problem was not discovered (as many of you have found after replacing crank sensors, distributors, and who knows what else ? ? ?) but because the manufacturer, including the after-market suppliers, never provided replacement parts without the defect present. That means, that hitting the wrecking yard for a new harness isn't a solution either. The 95 is a one year only wiring harness. As contracts go, who knows how long that wiring was used in harnesses? I don't know the answer to that, but, I have an answer for how to prevent this from happening again, and it is quite simple -- I will never buy another Chrysler product again!
    I have already told myself this before, I have blacklisted several other companies for similarly not standing behind their products. I am sure you too do not purchase from certain companies, perhaps from a bad experience, perhaps for ethical reasons, now you can include this one as I have, if you choose. I shall not waste any more of my hard earned money chasing demons implanted in a product at the time of manufacture with no way out provided by those in the know.

    I can easily relate this to the soullessness of the corporation, the greediness of mindless decision makers, the pointlessness of accounting decision, but I will not digress or be furthermore redundant.

    Namaste and good luck with your choices and decisions in life!
  • glassbender101glassbender101 Member Posts: 1
    my wife was driving the car and it had been running great, next thing I know she said the engine just quit while she was driving like it ran out of gas... now it cranks fine but wont start. I checked the relay or fuse for fuel pump under hood, I sprayed starter fluid inti the intake tube with no luck it seems like there is no spark...If anyone has any idead what should I try or check next?
    Thanks for your time
    Tim
  • tommy666tommy666 Member Posts: 9
    I haven't been around for a while but I'm still working on my 95' cirrus. I just want to sell it. It books for $2,000 but I refuse to pawn it off until I fix It. So as far as the anti theft goes I got it figured out. The ECM I baught was reflashed for '95 and up. The problem is that '95 has no anti theft so when I got the new ECM it had anti theft information. My BCM learned this information corrupting it and locking me out. '95 has no alarm disableing devices. I was screwed. I baught a clicker but couldn't program it because naturaly I was locked out of the computer. I had to buy a new ECM and BCM and install them at the same time but parts alone would be over $1000.00. I found a guy who was able to find the wire at my BCM that would disable the alarm long enought to program my clicker. Back on the road, so I thought. The car started back with its old tricks. After changing my crank shaft position sensor 3 times, Distributor 3 times and the computer the stupid thing is stalling again. It happens when driving slow or at idle. It does not start again for 24 to 48 hours most times. I gutted the Cat. and it looked like a ball of slag. Iassumed the would fix the problem. Wrong. I got it good and hot then let it Idle and after 5 min it died. Crank and Crank but no start. I cooled it down with a big splash. 5 gal bucket of water (top off) I cranked and got it running rough missing like hell. I took off down hill as much as possible. Eventually after making her go and treating her like the [non-permissible content removed] she is she cleaned out and purred like a kitten. Somebody suggest fuel filter, not a bad idea anyway. It sure feels like fuel. I am a bit intrigued by the altinator solution. Under powered spark now that sounds good. I once had a camero that wasn't getting enough spark and turned out to be a bad ignition switch. Thank You for your concern. tommy
  • tommy666tommy666 Member Posts: 9
    So I just put my alternator and battery on a tester. The battery showed 12 volts but went to low on load test. I started the car and right off it was missing. The alternater was jumping back and forth from 13 to 14 volts. It doesn't sound like much but it looked substantual on the meter. I reved the engine and the alternator started making noises I never herd before. It was not a belt slipping. Kinda like a high speed grinding. At this point I was charging at 13v. Acording to the meter that is bad. The grinding stopped and the charge went up to 14.5 and the car was idleing great until the cooling fan kicked on. The Idle came way down and a little rougher, charging at 12.5. I drove until it was hot (about 2 hours) it was 80+ degrees today. My check engine light came on for the first time ever and I was able to pull a code: 35 and 51 (lean oxygen and throtle control / vacuum). I punched out my Cat. which explains lean 02 and my cruise control is hit and miss so that explains both. I continued to let the car idle while hot checking my alternator. It slowly creeped down to 12v but I tryed to get the car to stall for 5 hours the alternator went back to charging at 14.5v and It wouldn't die today. Go figure. My alternator light has never come on but it was up and down and making noise like a Chinese Hooker. I'm going to replace it. I'll let you know how it goes.
  • kylkoneskikylkoneski Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Chrysler Cirrus that I got last year from my aunt. It was well taken care of by my uncle. It runs nice, everything seems normal. But my sister was hitting 30 on a street and it started going backwards and it stalled, she said there was no oil, but we just checked it and there was a normal level of oil in it. I was thinking maybe a switch or maybe even the TCM and ECM were to blame. Any thoughts or suggestions let me know.
  • litchfamilylitchfamily Member Posts: 1
    Hi I wondered if changing the alternator has still fixed your stalling issue with your cirrus?
  • aprilmasonaprilmason Member Posts: 1
    I am wondering if you ever figured out what this was? Cause my car did the EXACT same thing-- please help me if you can.
  • mooncrab00mooncrab00 Member Posts: 4
    run fast away from this car nothing but a headache my mechanic couldnt find my stalling problem checked the alt replaced the ecm computer and checked a whole mess of other things....the car is a lemon...95 chrysler cirrus......besides my stalling problem i had an oil leak had to replace the whole steering rack bad front struts..this car is a nightmare...sold it even with all these problems i owned it for 3 months and took half of what i paid for it just to get rid of the headaches.....never again will i buy a chrysler product!!
  • mooncrab00mooncrab00 Member Posts: 4
    run fast away from this car nothing but a headache my mechanic couldnt find my stalling problem checked the alt replaced the ecm computer and checked a whole mess of other things....the car is a lemon...95 chrysler cirrus......besides my stalling problem i had an oil leak had to replace the whole steering rack bad front struts..this car is a nightmare...sold it even with all these problems i owned it for 3 months and took half of what i paid for it just to get rid of the headaches.....never again will i buy a chrysler product!!
  • mooncrab00mooncrab00 Member Posts: 4
    run fast away from this car nothing but a headache my mechanic couldnt find my stalling problem checked the alt replaced the ecm computer and checked a whole mess of other things....the car is a lemon...95 chrysler cirrus......besides my stalling problem i had an oil leak had to replace the whole steering rack bad front struts..this car is a nightmare...sold it even with all these problems i owned it for 3 months and took half of what i paid for it just to get rid of the headaches.....never again will i buy a chrysler product!!

    .
  • mooncrab00mooncrab00 Member Posts: 4
    run fast away from this car nothing but a headache my mechanic couldnt find my stalling problem checked the alt replaced the ecm computer and checked a whole mess of other things....the car is a lemon...95 chrysler cirrus......besides my stalling problem i had an oil leak had to replace the whole steering rack bad front struts..this car is a nightmare...sold it even with all these problems i owned it for 3 months and took half of what i paid for it just to get rid of the headaches.....never again will i buy a chrysler product!!

    .
  • tammie317tammie317 Member Posts: 1
    I had this exact thing happen to me when on vacation and it sucked, they changed the i wanna say it was the fuel positioning sensor, the check engine light did go out at first for about 10 minutes, however i did not have this particular problem again. I have read this car has multiple recalls so if u are having problems with this car call chrysler or look up the recall problems.
  • pfuchspfuchs Member Posts: 3
    Hi there, I have a 2000 Chrysler Cirrus with 207k miles. It has the 2.5L V6 in which I just had the head-gasket redone and the head shaved less than 3k miles ago, I ran it out of gas recently on accident, put some new gas in and it ran fine for 700 to 1000 miles, Now the engine died a slow death, I would be driving at around 2K RPMS and it would just loose power, like fuel or spark just quit, then it would kick back on and be like normal, its been doing this for the last 200 miles, it just kept getting worse and worse it would die under a load and just sitting at idle around 2k RPMS, likr it lost spark, it would backfire and make popping sounds in the air intake, finally the other day it died completely and wouldn't restart, had it towed home... thought it was the gas even tho the gauge read 1/4 tank, so I put some gas in and after turning it over for 30 seconds it fired back up and it would rev right up... So me being optomistic i drove it again, made it 3.5 miles and same thing, with my foot on the gas driving around 2k RPM it just lost power and RPMS, so i stopped and tried to rev it up and it's almost like its being starved of fuel... checked that by taking the fuel rail line off and it has plenty of fuel in the line... it was revving up, very very slow in neutral. As soon as I put it in gear it didn't even have enough power to move.. eventually it quit starting altogether and before any of this happened it took a while to start (5-7 seconds of turning it over before it fired up) It has all new plugs and wires, oils, fluids, etc.. the Ignition Coil IS the OLD one and the only check engine code is a p0134 which is OXY Sensor Bank 1 no circuit input, in which it had this code before... I've read and heard some say Cam sensor or a un-grounded circuit, I'm just so fed up and parts are so much money for this car... Head-gasket job was 1500 bucks and I got the car for free and have around $2500 into it... any ideas guys? I'd like to fix it and sell it or sell it as is for the right price.... The motor is seriously sandwhiched in there and hard to get at things... any help would be appreciated.. I usually do my own mechanical work and can use a multi-meter. Im in too deep money wise to stop now... please help with this nightmare of a car! Thanks guys n gals -Peter

    P.S. Someone on another forum said it could be the EGR (Exhaust Gas Reciculatory) Valve stuck open or closed, he said there is a slot on the exhaust side of the EGR pipeing where i can adjust the stem that open and closes the flapper and lubricate it....

    Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance..

    - :confuse: Peter
  • pfuchspfuchs Member Posts: 3
    well I took the EGR off and cleaned it with kerosene and carb cleaner and soaked it and worked the vacumm valve action free, it was kinda stuck but i put it back together checked all the vaccum lines and its still doing the same thing will run but hard to start, only at idle, you try to revv it up and it just takes forever then dies, Im now thinking it could be the catylitic converter the way to took a while to die, where exactly is it located under the car? I see two muffler shaped objects on the exhaust, the muffler in back obviously just a muffler then a smaller one under the mid car and a cherry bomb looking thing after it, I wanted to cut open the cat from the bottom and smash all the stuff out and just weld it back up but i wanna make sure i cut into the right thing first..... thanks again, peter
  • pfuchspfuchs Member Posts: 3
    Well the car is still in the driveway, I got pissed off and hollowed out the catalytic converter, didn't help. I'm pretty sure this is a Electrical problem... driving at around 2,000 RPMS just cruising it dies for a second or two, then it will turn back on almost like the spark plugs quit firing for a second or two... I thoroughly cleaned the EGR valve and etc. checked all the fuses and relays under the hood, seem to be all good, I heard the coil-pack drive gear is aluminum and can wear out?? I'm just so fed up with this Lemon car, got it for free and have over $2500 in it and it still doesnt run... I'd be willing to sell it for the right price as is (make offer) my e-mail is PeterJFuchsJr@gmail.com shoot me a message if you have any ideas as to whats wrong with it, I'm thinking something electrical as in bad ground or something of the like, let me know what you think. Thanks in advance!
  • neel1235neel1235 Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem with my car too!! I changed the MAP sensor but it didn't fix the problem. Now mechanics are suggesting me to change the PCM which costs about $350 at advance autoparts. So I'm not sure whether I should change the PCM or just keep driving it the way it is
  • neel1235neel1235 Member Posts: 3
    Was your problem fixed by changing the alternator?
  • neel1235neel1235 Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I have a 1998 2.5 L Cirrus. It was running perfect last week. But two days ago I came back home and left it for two days and now it doesn't turn on anymore. When i turn the ignition, it makes cranking noise which means it's trying to start. So at first I thought my battery might be weak so I put a new battery in but it still isn't turning on :cry: Anybody has any ideas for me?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    This might be a good question for our Answers team:
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  • rlwalshrlwalsh Member Posts: 1
    hello. I have a 1998 chrysler cirrus and im running into an issue. It runs great in idle,but soon as i shift it into a gear and step on the gas the SOB cuts off. I recently replaced the battery, the distributor, the spark plugs, the rotor, the egr valve,the air filter, the wires, and the axle. all of which could have caused this. please im in need of help, if you have any suggestions or can point me in the right direction i would appreciate it.
  • deb222deb222 Member Posts: 1
    My '97 cirrus blows a 20 amp fuse under the hood after a few drives and then will not start. My mechanic is stumped. Anyone know why?
  • barrymoorebarrymoore Member Posts: 1
    sounds like fuel pump that was my problem
  • slthomas14slthomas14 Member Posts: 1
    edited June 2013
    I have a 2000 Chrysler Cirrus with the 2.5 V-6 that is having issues staying running. When I start the car and let it idle, it seems to run fine. After it warms up and when you rev it up to 2000 RPM's, it will start to bang, pop, backfire and run rough. The RPM gauge is all over the place. Eventually it will shut off after a few minutes of this. We have tried the throttle positioning sensor, new cap and rotor and it still is doing the same thing. When it did this at first, as soon as it did it and we got the car pulled over off the road, we looked under the car and the catalytic converter was glowing red, so we though maybe it was plugged. The converter was punched out and is totally clear and that didn't help either. Anybody have ideas on this? I've read a lot of other post about this, but some say to do this, some say to do that, and some seem to work for one person, but not the other................At a loss right now!
  • wh1pt3chwh1pt3ch Member Posts: 1
    I have the solution to the Millions of vehicles affected by this failure, its not the Transmission pump, input shaft sensor, output shaft sensor, Selector range sensor, valve body, or solenoids. If you are sick of trying to figure out this problem and are mechanically inclined with a volt meter and basic tools i can help by sending wire colors and diagrams and ultamately guide you through the systematic process of diagnosing a vehicle and then verifying the part is bad. I wanted to post a diagram but it will not let me. it is in the charging system but not alternator! Its in the PCM and its called the (generator field driver) that provades a ground to other components like the (Automatic shut down relay) its an intermitten problem with the PCM unable to provide a source for ground wich in turn confuses the tcm on what to do putting it in fail safe mode. the curcuit loses ground source for a very short second so a noid light, test light, volt meter will work but an ocylliscope would be best... thats why it will go in fail safe at the most random time! it has to be during gear change operation. HARDEST CAR I HAVE EVER DIAGNOSED! 10 YEARS ASE Master Tech. Im not saying that was the only problem with that discription, but its the most unknow fix for the 95% that never were ... i have not heard one tech talk about this! sad! Need help? Just respond
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    Hi - if you want to send it to me, I can upload the diagram (I think... that feature is flaky, even for hosts). kirstie_h at edmunds.com

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  • cirriouslycirriously Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 cirrus. Great car except for problems much like the ones you are stating. So, what do you do? I am reluctant to replace the computer and keep throwing parts at it.
  • dbfortnerdbfortner Member Posts: 1
    I'm trying to repair my daughters 1998 cirrus. I have the wiring diag.that is in the back of repair man. How do I go about checking this P.C.M. to see if it is bad.
  • dollarbill7dollarbill7 Member Posts: 1
    Hey wh1pt3ch can you send diagram to me if I give you my email?
  • lousautolousauto Member Posts: 1
    i have a 98 chrysler cirrus that came to the shop for an radiator leack so i fixed it while i was letting it worm up the engine started misfiring real bad so i shut the car off noticed fuel gauge was low so i added fuel n the car wont start back up i checked fuel pressure didnt have any replaced fuel pump n filter car still wont start checked spark and injector pulse all was good sprayed either inside throttlebody n still wont start any ideas guys iv chasing my tail for three days help plz .....................
  • cirrus_lovercirrus_lover Member Posts: 1
    matthew-jeffrey@outlook.com Please send me diagram and any other info on this car. I get intermittent fire to plugs. All sensors seem to check good. Help please!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • charliekycharlieky Member Posts: 1

    My Cirrus v6 1998 - Would start up and usually die a couple times, would die sometimes at stop lights.... Going down the road it would sometimes stall going down the road at 60 miles an hour !! I could always restart the car after a STALL.. No Dash lights would stay on, only flash on and off. Went to autozone to check for any codes, no codes!! Went to Pep Boys for Diagnostic couldn't find anything to cause the STALLING!! Finally I discovered this website :):)
    Read everyone's problems about stalling etc... FINALLY! Decided to try and replace the CRANK SHAFT POSITION SENSOR........MY CAR NO LONGER STALLS AT STOPLIGHTS AND DOESN'T STALL ON THE HIGHWAY :):) Not saying this will work for everyone, but if you have the problems I have listed .. Crank Shaft Position sensor should be the first PART I would TRY to correct the problems. Note-- when my car would stall i could always re-start it every time. ( Which made me think it wasn't a bad crank sensor )
    I hope this helps and works for you..... It may save you alot of CASH, and headaches! B)

  • metalhead13metalhead13 Member Posts: 1

    Okay, I have a 98 cirrus also. Only 83000 miles because employment provided a vehicle, the car has just not been driven much. I am no longer employed so I am trying to get the car running. The problem I'm having is electrical. Intermittently the dash lights will go out and it doesn't appear that the battery is getting charged. I have replaced the battery and I have had the alternator check which checked out to be working. I have tried driving it short distances in case it dies but I'm not sure my problem is related to the problems in this forum. I want to sell the car but would like to fix this "battery light" problem first. Any suggestions?

  • cirrusbuggeredcirrusbuggered Member Posts: 1

    I've not taken the time to read the more recent posts on this, but will. First let me throw out a quick fix for those that have been having problems in the summer, mostly after or when it's raining or very humid. Make sure you've got at least a half tank of gas and put in a bottle of Heet. Or just carry bottles with you, in case it's bogging or has stalled, even if you don't have much gas in there -- add it. Then with it in park or neutral with your foot on the brake, rev it for a couple of minutes. If you have the room for this, try and drive it a little bit in a safe enough spot to do so (like not crossing an intersection or pulling out into traffic). I've even driven it back and forth in my driveway like ten times to help the Heet do it's job. It evaporates moisture / water build-up. Then do your best to keep your car at about a full tank all the time.

    I've gone through all the crap with this, had it to three different repair shops and dropped a ton of cash. A $2 bottle of Heet has done the trick more often than not. You just have to give it time to work through the system before you trust it to drive you far (I've found that out the hard way). Hope this helps somebody. Oh, and mine is a '99 Cirrus LXI. So it's not just the models before that.

  • mr_tryingmr_trying Member Posts: 2
    wh1pt3ch said:

    I have the solution to the Millions of vehicles affected by this failure, its not the Transmission pump, input shaft sensor, output shaft sensor, Selector range sensor, valve body, or solenoids. If you are sick of trying to figure out this problem and are mechanically inclined with a volt meter and basic tools i can help by sending wire colors and diagrams and ultamately guide you through the systematic process of diagnosing a vehicle and then verifying the part is bad. I wanted to post a diagram but it will not let me. it is in the charging system but not alternator! Its in the PCM and its called the (generator field driver) that provades a ground to other components like the (Automatic shut down relay) its an intermitten problem with the PCM unable to provide a source for ground wich in turn confuses the tcm on what to do putting it in fail safe mode. the curcuit loses ground source for a very short second so a noid light, test light, volt meter will work but an ocylliscope would be best... thats why it will go in fail safe at the most random time! it has to be during gear change operation. HARDEST CAR I HAVE EVER DIAGNOSED! 10 YEARS ASE Master Tech. Im not saying that was the only problem with that discription, but its the most unknow fix for the 95% that never were ... i have not heard one tech talk about this! sad! Need help? Just respond

  • mr_tryingmr_trying Member Posts: 2
    WH1pt3ch I hope you are still available. I am in the second round with my mechanic for this problem and am very confused. He replaced quite a bit the first round but the problem continued. Before I invest more I want to make sure the problem will be resolved. Please contact me for advice.
  • jessica59jessica59 Member Posts: 1
    OK so I have a 99 cirrus ran good had lil trouble up hills. So one day  it started stalling then died I tried starting again few minutes later it started and ran fone, well I drove it couple blocks away and on my way back home going up a hill it stalled and quit on me, this time it won't start at all has no spark, had no battery problem cuase I had lights and all, but the battery did did a day or two later, I had crank shaft position sensor put in and still nothing, can anyone please help its my only vehicle for work and I need fixed asap???
  • stoneysdead2000stoneysdead2000 Member Posts: 2
    Check your wiring harness to the crankshaft position sensor
    https://youtu.be/sNBNGwYUz1g
  • stoneysdead2000stoneysdead2000 Member Posts: 2
    wh1pt3ch said:

    I have the solution to the Millions of vehicles affected by this failure, its not the Transmission pump, input shaft sensor, output shaft sensor, Selector range sensor, valve body, or solenoids. If you are sick of trying to figure out this problem and are mechanically inclined with a volt meter and basic tools i can help by sending wire colors and diagrams and ultamately guide you through the systematic process of diagnosing a vehicle and then verifying the part is bad. I wanted to post a diagram but it will not let me. it is in the charging system but not alternator! Its in the PCM and its called the (generator field driver) that provades a ground to other components like the (Automatic shut down relay) its an intermitten problem with the PCM unable to provide a source for ground wich in turn confuses the tcm on what to do putting it in fail safe mode. the curcuit loses ground source for a very short second so a noid light, test light, volt meter will work but an ocylliscope would be best... thats why it will go in fail safe at the most random time! it has to be during gear change operation. HARDEST CAR I HAVE EVER DIAGNOSED! 10 YEARS ASE Master Tech. Im not saying that was the only problem with that discription, but its the most unknow fix for the 95% that never were ... i have not heard one tech talk about this! sad! Need help? Just respond

    Need help with this please.
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