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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

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Comments

  • kalexander2kalexander2 Member Posts: 10
    Friendly GMC in Portland, Oregon! We ordered our Yukon back in November. I got it a couple of weeks ago and love it! We have some after market stuff to add to it, so it doesn't look like everyone else's in the Dallas area. Ron Roberts was the nicest salesman. We never met face to face, but he handled everything perfectly and kept me updated as to everything going on with the vehicle. We got a 2wd., black, Yukon XL and even after adding wheels, tires, tv/vcp system in headrest, running boards and getting it de-chromed the total price tag was a little over $40,000. My friend with a Navigator was kicking herself today after she saw my truck. I just told Ron today that I got his name and number from this web-site and he couldn't believe it. I don't remember the name of the person who suggested him, but I told him I would post his name again for doing such a great job for us.
    RON ROBERTS- Friendly GMC (Oregon) 1-800-219-1462
  • rcsuttonrcsutton Member Posts: 35
    I have a 2001 XL 1500, I think I am having problems with the vehicle going into reverse. I think it has electronic shifting and at times when I put it into reverse nothing happens until I put back in Park and back into reverse then it works.This has happened a couple of times now. I have about 1800 miles on vehicle & love it. Any one else experience this?
    B.S.
    S. Florida
  • jamesk4jamesk4 Member Posts: 55
    I ordered a 2001 Yukon XL on January 29,2001 from Southern GM for $200.00 under invoice. I was notified today that my build date was March 5, 2001. So much for a long wait, now my problem is getting rid of my 96' burb by then. These guys are a first class act.
  • vasylvasyl Member Posts: 9
    Saw the new Z51 Suburban the other day at a dealer here in Houston. Had special wheels and body trim. This is a very good looking vehicle. Of course the dealer was holding out for MSRP (or more) which was a little over $42K (4wd loaded). Does anyone have more information on this package?
  • jchamberlain2jchamberlain2 Member Posts: 4
    I am getting ready to buy my 2nd burb and have a few questions on 3 options. Any feedback is appreciated
    Autoride Suspension: does anyone have any comments good or bad on how well this works or if it simply provides an opportunity to make another trip to the mechanic?

    Locking Rear Differential: thinking about the 4:1 axel ration and wondering if the combination of the two will be a good idea. Or if the 4:1 is even necessary given the additinal torque the engine has.

    We are often in snow and off road fishing.

    Thanks in advance for the comments
  • ethanethan Member Posts: 4
    I'm having a hard time deciding between the 2001 Chevy Suburban and the 2001 Yukon XL. They seem like their pretty much the same except for the appearance. What are the major differences between the two?
  • jffitzjffitz Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone have any recent experience with buying a Yukon XL in NJ, i.e. current deals, how much over/under invoice paid, recommended dealers
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    Auto ride is a must!! The ride between with and without is like apples and oranges. I have a 3/4 ton with auto ride and it gives it the ride of the last model 1/2 ton. If you are getting a 1/2 ton it will provide a level ride feature, so if you tow or load the back end up it will level that off. It will also provide a luxury car like ride. This is the same type of suspension GM and Ford have used for the high end cars. It has been proven for 100K miles +. If you are in snow/off road a locking differential is a good idea, if you lose traction on one side the other takes up the slack and give you the extra pushing power to get out of trouble. As far as the 4.10:1 gear ratio, if you are not pulling anything big or doing a lot of serious off roading you really don't need it. The 3.73:1 gears are a really good compromise, for gas mileage and performance. What engine are you interested in getting?
  • andyl2andyl2 Member Posts: 84
    I am in the process of modifying the Poron backup system I recently installed on my Denali XL. The system is the Micro 3LV and will have a total of 5 sensors. The front sensor (1 sensor) works when the forward switch is on and the vehicle is not in reverse (this is normally left off). The 4 backup sensors work when the vehicle is in reverse and the reverse switch is on. The rear sensors are mounted on the black portion of the bumper, just below the color keyed section. The front sensor is mounted in the gap between the grill and front license plate. The sensors are almost unnoticeable. The switches are mounted where the vertical storage tray is (where the 4 wheel drive/ traction control switch normally is). There is 1 on/off switch for forward and 1 on/off switch for reverse. The display is mounted on the small strip between the dash trim and the console trim and blends in very well there. The system works very well. I like the digital display telling how close you are. It is much more accurate than just the tones. I am using 4 rear sensors for several reasons: increased accuracy, avoids interference with the trailer ball, and cosmetically looks better. I am able to use 5 sensors by only supplying +12 VDC to a maximum of 4 sensors at 1 time (the front and rear are never on at the same time). Send an email to me at AndrewLobsenz@TX.SLR.COM if you need more details.
  • ezduzit1ezduzit1 Member Posts: 5
    I don't like the factory backup lights at all...I find I can barely see at night when backing up.

    Any suggestions as to where to get the 'brightest' replacement backup lights will be most appreciated??? Are different makes/brands brighter than others???
  • ethanethan Member Posts: 4
    Is $500 over invoice a good deal on a 2001 Chevy Suburban? Has anyone paid invoice? Thanks-
  • msncowtnmsncowtn Member Posts: 18
    To ezduzit1....re; back-up lights....
    I agree, and have used aux units on last 3 vehicles,(all had dark tint glass). For more info, suggest you go to delphi.com/GMSUV/messages, where I had previously posted info and pics on units which I have installed on my '01' XL. I believe it is under "aftermkt accys", and look for the attachment icon.

    Mike/DFW
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    Do you want to add on, or to replace the bulb only? A number of aftermarket shops carry a direct bulb replacement. It is a 59 watt halogen bulb with a factory bulb end to fit right into the socket. I have installed them in mine and they made a big difference. If you want add on ones go to your local semi truck repair/accessory, or truck stop. The ones on the semi trucks are the brightest I have found. There also is the driving/fog light idea. You can get them in a low profile so they will look good and still light it up in the back. I am not sure but with the gm trailer harness, I think they put a backup light wire into the thing, so it should be easy to use add on lights.
  • vinnie6vinnie6 Member Posts: 20
    Completely agree with jgmilberg. Autoride is a must with any of the models. My K2500 ride is phenomenal.

    Suggest the 3.73 locking rear end unless you are towing monsterously heavy trailers.

    Consider the 8.1 engine if you are going 3/4 ton. I love the responsiveness and power. The small penalty in gas is worth it.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    Just wondered if you heard anything about GM putting the new allison 5 speed auto behind the 8.1L in a 'Burb or YukonXL in 2002. My dealer has no idea one way or the other. I know a guy at work with this combo in a 2001 2500HD Silverado, with 4.10:1 gears and he claims that he can get 15 MPG city, and 18 MPG highway. That is about what get with the 6.0L and 3.73:1 gears!! If that was the case I may have waited for the new tranny at least, if it makes that big of a difference in mileage. I wonder if it will be available behind a 6.0L for those who don't need all the stump pulling power of the big block. Wow, a 5 speed auto behind a 6.0L, the thing would have an unbelievable range.
  • chesapeakechesapeake Member Posts: 2
    I love my 1988 GMC Suburban, 4x4, 350, 1500.

    I think it is the best, most versatile vehicle I have ever owned. I am thinking of selling my 1999 Ford Ranger 4x4 and my wifes 1996 Lumina LS, 3.4 litre DOHC and getting my wife a new suburban.

    I am wondering how do the new 2001 compare with the 1988.

    How does the 2001 compare in safety, reliability, cargo and passenger capacity ???

    Is the 2001 safer than the 1988 ?

    Can the 2001 carry 4x8 sheets of plywood and 12 foot long boards like the 1988 ?

    Are the 2001's reliable and will they go for the 200,000 mile mark without a lot of expensive repairs ?

    Can a do it yourselfer perform most of the maintenance on the 2001 ?

    How much should I pay for a new 2001, 4x4 with the basic features which I would assume include power windows, doors, a/c, CD stereo, etc ??

    All input appreciated. Thanks in advance
  • ezduzit1ezduzit1 Member Posts: 5
    I had the GMC factory flares on my '97 GMC Burb which I traded in on my new '01 YXL. The YXL wheel openings looking unfinished with the exposed screw holes in the finished/colored part of the wheel well.
    Does anyone know if I can order either painted or unpainted flares for my truck? and, if so, from where?
    Also if flares aren't avaiable are there any chrome trim kits to attach to inside of wheel wells?
    Thanks for any help.

    I appreciated the help on replacement halogen backup lights and just ordered a set.
  • bmoss1bmoss1 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks to all those who offer their advice on this board. It's been very helpful as we plan on purchasing a new Yukon XL. I have a couple of questions after reading the previous 600 messages. First, we currently have a 94 Suburban, 3/4 ton, 4WD, w/ a 454 engine. We pull a 6000 lb. travel trailer five or six times a year, but 95% of our 20K annual miles are commute and long distance travel w/o the trailer. We also use it to explore the desert, mountains, and Baja outside San Diego. My questions are: (1) Is the 6.0 w/ 3.73 axel beefy enough for our limited towing? Will we feel degraded coming from the 454? (2)Since we're used to the 94, will the new 2500 with autoride provide a substantial difference? (3)If we reached for the Denali, would it pull the trailer up decent grades? I know we'd sacrifice 4WD low, and that's a concern. (4)How will going to 265 tires affect gas mileage? (I know it's sacrilege to talk about mileage when talking about burbs. just wondering) Thanks for any assistance.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    If you have the power and like it go with the 8.1L. I think the 6.0L/3.73 combo is a good one, I have it and love it. With that combo it is rated to tow 8000 lbs, a little better that what you are planning on towing. The 6.0L/4.10 combo rates at 10,000 lbs. The 8.1L/3.73 combo is rated at 10,500, and the 8.1L/4.10 rates in with a killer 12K pounds!! If I remember correctly the 6.0L and the 454 horse power and torque ratings are very close, so you may not notice the difference. The 8.1 has a ton more torque, at a really low rpm 445 ft lbs @ 3200 RPM. The autoride makes the new 3/4 ton ride like the old model half ton, well worth the money. You will notice a substantial difference in ride. If you do choose the 8.1 L you have to get it. Heatwave3 has a Denali XL and I think he said it is rated at 8300 lbs towing capacity. It might slow down but should be able to take it, without any real problem. I think he has a 4.10 gear, but remember it is a 1/2 ton. I am not sure if he has pulled anything with it to tell you about. I can tell you there is a huge difference in ride between the Denali XL and the Yukon XL 3/4 ton. Heatwave can offer his opinions on that, I think he had an old model 'burb to base it on. Not sure about the tire size change other than you will need to go into the dealer and have them re calibrate your speedo, it only takes a few minutes to do. All they have to do is hook it up to a computer and enter in the new tire size. Best advise is to try it out first so you can get a good base for your decision. I did and found it more helpful that on any information the dealer or anybody else had for me.
  • fatheroffourfatheroffour Member Posts: 4
    I've been reading for some time now the informative postings about 01 XL's and Suburbans. Is it the general consensus that the XL and the Suburban are that close in price?I'm looking to purchase either one with a lot of options(Auto ride,Sunroof,LT preferred eqpmt,2nd row bucket seats,Trailer pckge)Is this cold air problem on the passenger side more prevalent in XL's or Suburbans?Also,can anyone recommend a good dealer in Nassau or Suffolk CO's,that they've had a good experience with and got a price around invoice w/o a huge hassle.I initially only looked at the Suburban thinking that it would be significantly cheaper than it's G.M. brother.
  • rleonardrleonard Member Posts: 17
    According to reports/messages I~ve received Yukon XL and Suburban both are having the same problem. Check them both but only on cold day.
  • mitch43mitch43 Member Posts: 10
    Since I plan on ordering the "smaller step child" Yukon (not the XL) and will never ever tow anything, is there still a reason to buy autoride? Thanks in advance for any help!
  • murmurmusicmurmurmusic Member Posts: 13
    for what its worth I've been driving my new '01 burb since the new year, through some very cold weather (sub zero temps at times), with my VERY temperature sensitive wife in the front passenger seat. She has never noticed a problem with cold air coming from anywhere. So perhaps it is not a problem on ALL vehicles. Just my $.02.
  • murmurmusicmurmurmusic Member Posts: 13
    Does anybody else have a problem with rolling down your windows and having them come up wet and streaked? This happens to me for a few days after the cars been out in the rain or through a car wash. BTW only the outside of the glass gets wet.
  • evaldovevaldov Member Posts: 1
    I am about to put my 6 month old Yukon XL back in the shop for the 4th time. On a long trip about 3 months ago my low engine coolant light came on. I checked the level which was about 1/2 inch below the normal level. I filled it back up and took it back to the shop. The first time they said they couldn't find anything. The second time they injected dye to find the leak... no luck. The 3rd time they sent it to a specialty shop which found a hairline crack in the head. The car had 7K miles on it and a cracked head! Sounds like a defect to me. Well...2 months after replacing the defective head I now see a puddle of coolant in my garage. Has anyone else had a similar problem. Is this a lemon law case? I in Virgin.

    Thanks,
    Eric
  • rleonardrleonard Member Posts: 17
    Congrats #621--What~s your secret? Is yours a 2001? Where was it built? Mine in Mexico. Are you now or ever been affiliated with General Motors? Or Bill Clinton?
  • murmurmusicmurmurmusic Member Posts: 13
    No secret just dumb luck. Built in Mexico. No special affiliations, believe me by the time I finished fighting with everybody who got me this vehicle (Driveoff.com, and a MD dealer) they would've stuck me with a lemon if they could have!!
  • willardh3willardh3 Member Posts: 18
    Does anyone know for sure, has GMC figured out how to retain the Auto climate controls for the rear seat when a factory roof is added?
    I have heard/read that the sunroof option therefore requires manual rear air control.
  • jtbuffjtbuff Member Posts: 25
    Posted several times about cold air im my 2001 Yukon XL. Dealership couldn't help me. Said GM was working on it.Called GM today and the person who I talked to said this was the first she heard about this problem.I was hoping for some kind of a fix.Will have this vehicle for a while and don't look forward to covering legs in winter all the time.
  • rleonardrleonard Member Posts: 17
    Hi again 625 - Do you have the Automatic Climate Control System? It comes with the 1SC Prefered Equipment Package. Has the Auto settings for fan on the left and air out on far right. For Yukon XL it`s 1SD Marketing Option Pkg. Chev it`s 1SC. Just can`t believe some ones got it right.
  • murmurmusicmurmurmusic Member Posts: 13
    Maybe this is a clue: No I do not have the auto climate control, I've got the sunroof instead* otherwise the vehicle is a 1500 LT w/1SC. So maybe the auto ac is the culprit. How 'bout it coldfooters? Anybody out there with cold feet and the manual Climate Control?
  • mbml55amgmbml55amg Member Posts: 57
    Our Denali XL has no problem with the "Cold Feet" syndrome. My wife is, as many are, very cold-natured & is often a passenger with no problems. Our Denali has the Auto-Climate package in front & the Manual (Sunroof equipped) package for the rear.
  • rickhessrickhess Member Posts: 18
    I just traded a 2000 Suburban 1500 LT 4x4 w/ 5.3L and 4.10 gears on a 2001 Suburban 2500 LT 4x4 w/ 8.1L and 4.10 gears. We loved the 2000 so much that we ordered the same vehicle (options and colors) in the 3/4 ton. We tow a 6630 lb (dry wt) travel trailer for about 15-20% of our 10,000 annual miles. The rest of the time, the Sub is my wife's car for daily use. The 5.3L fell short in power while towing and that's why we traded. Here are the pluses and minuses for the 2001 3/4 ton w/ 8.1 L:

    Lots of Torque - Even though I haven't done so yet, I am sure that I will be able to tow in 4th gear with the 2001. I could not tow in 4th with the 2000. It would constantly downshift, even in tow haul mode on level terrain. With the 2000 in 3rd gear, I was turning 3000+ rpm at 65 mph. This was a bit high and got tiresome on long trips.

    Great Acceleration - The 2000 would bog down in 4th gear on a grade, even without anything in tow. This meant frequent downshifts while driving in hilly country. The 2001 accelerates nicely in 4th gear with no need to downshift.

    Stiffer Steering - The 2000 had variable speed power assist steering which meant my wife could turn the wheel with one finger, even at stopped conditions. The 2001 has power assist, but not variable speed. This means considerably more effort to turn the wheel at stopped conditions (i.e. parking). I like the stiffer feel once you are moving, but my wife does not like the extra effort at low speed.

    Slightly Stiffer Ride/Handling - Surprisingly, the 2001 rides almost as comfortably as the 2000. The most noticeable difference occurs when you go over a deep depression or bump (like a speed strip) at slow speed. You get a pretty good side to side jossling with the 2001. At normal travel speeds on good road, there is essentially no difference in ride or handling.

    Noisy Engine - The 8.1L engine lets you know it is under the hood, while the 5.3L was quiet. The 2001 is definitely more noisey.

    It's a Compromise - There is no doubt that the 2000 provided a more comfortable ride than the 2001. We really had to struggle with the idea of trading, and if it were up to my wife, we would probably still have the 2000. I based the decision to trade on what I saw as the long term effects of towing with the 2000. At a price of nearly $40K, I plan on keeping this Suburban for the same 12 years I kept my 1988. The drive train on the 2000 clearly fell short while towing, even though that represents only 15-20% of our miles. I feel that I would have eventually run into problems as a result of the towing wear. I am a lot more confident with the heavier vehicle and drive train and am looking forward to towing this camping season. I think we did the right thing in buying the 2001, but there are definitely compromises. Hope this helps.
  • henrysbeachhenrysbeach Member Posts: 9
    After reading the complaints about cold feet, and not paying much attention since we live in sunny San Diego, my wife and I set out in our 2001 Yukon XL on a Montana/Wyoming ski trip. Well, sure 'nuff, my wife's feet were cold. The cold feet on the passenger side was noticeable in the "extreme" cold, under 40 degrees. Wish GM would come up with a real answer.
  • dicksiedicksie Member Posts: 4
    According to the brouchures, the 6.0 Sub has 320 HI, the 6.0 GMC XL has 300. Went and picked up a different set of brouchures, (like pulling teeth at 3 GMC dealers) and these say Sub 320 HP @ 4400 RPM, GMC XL 315 HP@ 5000. Does anyone know why the difference? Is it a different cam?

    Also, if I am not mistaken, all of the post I see about the cold air problems are on Yukon, I don't remember seeing one about SUBS.

    One last thing. Is the low financing % a reginional thing. I am treated like an idiot when I ask my local dealers about it?
  • grogman1grogman1 Member Posts: 76
    I recently purchased a 2001 YXL and am looking for a bug/chip deflector for the hood. I remember it discussed several posts ago but couldn't locate it. Anyone have a style and/or source that they recommend. Thanks in advance.

    BTW - Love the ride so far - only 1K miles -and no problem with cold feet. I have the SLT, Autoclimate Control with Autoride and the 1sd package.
  • jtbuffjtbuff Member Posts: 25
    Got cold feet weather it's in auto or manual.
  • stodd52stodd52 Member Posts: 3
    I had the GMC factory flares on my '97 GMC Burb which I traded in on my new '01 YXL. The YXL wheel openings looking unfinished with the exposed screw holes in the finished/colored part of the wheel well.
    Does anyone know if I can order either painted or unpainted flares for my truck? and, if so, from where?
    Also if flares aren't avaiable are there any chrome trim kits to attach to inside of wheel wells?
    Thanks for any help.
  • jtbuffjtbuff Member Posts: 25
    I recently had a chrome kit put on my XL 2001. Looks really nice. Had it done locally by a place called first class auto center.The price was 125 dollars.I live in Ohio.I can give you their phone and fax. Maybe they can tell you where to get them.
    Phone 740-264-5504
    Fax 740-264-9937
  • iadrewiadrew Member Posts: 1
    This is my first post on this board, but I've been reading for weeks (probably read all 600+ before the day is over). Thanks to all for their input!

    I'm looking at a used 1/2 ton 2000 Sub LT w/ 10k miles but no Autoride. I test drove it at a dealer last night and then drove a twin vehicle with Autoride (different color, more miles, more money... go figure). Could NOT tell the difference in the ride on these brief test drives. I'll be pulling a 5000 lb. boat during summer months, but probably not any long distances. Based on previous posts, I'd really like to have the Autoride, but is it truly critical on a 1/2 ton with occasional towing? Does the Premium Suspension that comes on the LT do any actual load-leveling?

    Also, my VERY brief experience with these 2 trucks didn't produce any cold feet. It was snowing, blowing and below 20 degrees. Not a reflective sampling, but thought I'd add the $.02 worth to the great mystery.

    All advice welcome. Thanks!
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    Try performance products. The fender flares are $287 in dark grey and can be painted to match the body color. Hood/bug gaurds run between $40 and $80 depening on the style. The web site is www.performanceproducts.com. If you don't see it in the online catalog you will have to sign up with them to look into the full line catalog. The phone # is 1-800-7472. Have you tried your dealer for the fender flares? They can get them, and paint them to match. Not sure about the price at the dealer, probably high.
  • fcornayfcornay Member Posts: 6
    Greg,

        I purchased and installed a Bugflector II on my 2001 Suburban. You can get one in almost any color to match the color of your vehicle. It installs very easily using existing holes in the hood. I purchased mine locally but you can get this product from several sources including J. C. Whitney. See also Cliff Martins webssite for aftermarket accessories. http://suv.s5.com/

        Regards,

            fcornay
  • cat1iacat1ia Member Posts: 16
    Does anyone have info. one the new Z71 Suburban? Does it come with the LT or LS trim? Any info would help. Also I live in Columbus, Ohio and the low APR listed for Ohio is regional by counties. The north part of the state but not central. Oh well......
  • crznptcrznpt Member Posts: 1
    I need some input on how to price my Yukon XL, it has all options, 4K miles, white w/pewter interior and is brand new in every way! Need to cash out for unexpected real estate transaction.Thank you in advance for your advice. Chicago/O'Hare area. List price was 44,500.
  • troyjill1troyjill1 Member Posts: 2
    Anyone know the difference between the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton from years 97-99 besides engine? Are the axles, transmission, springs different? Is the frame heavier? Any imput or advice where to find this info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Troy
  • duanekeldermanduanekelderman Member Posts: 4
    I have never thought of new car buying as a pleasant experience, but CARBARGAINS.ORG is the best thing since sliced bread when it comes to buying a new car. The best price I had gotten on a Yukon AL was 1000 over invoice. In steps CARBARGAINS.ORG. I pay them $165.00. They "shop" 5 nearby MC dealerships for me and get their best price. The thing they have going for them is that they can tell the dealer that they clearly have a "real buyer" since I've put up $165.00. They came back with two dealers who would sell to me for $200 over invoice. Plus these dealers were near my home. The dealer who said he would do 1000 over invoice was 80 miles away.
    When I called the dealer and told him I was buying through the Car bargains program, he was most cordial (this was a dealer who had told me they were not discounting Yukon XLs at all). They treated me like I paid full price. This is a great program. I heard about it on the Today show in December, 2000. They said that the average saving people realize when they use Car bargains is $931.00 (net savings, ie, including the 165 you have to pay for the service). Better than the savings is the fact that all the stress and hassle of having to "wear down" that invisible manager in the back room is gone. I love it.
    And oh, by the way, I absolutely love my Yukon XL. It is a beautiful vehicle. I'm 48 and this is the first time I've been able to order and get exactly the vehicle I wanted. It took only 5 weeks for it to arrive, five weeks, that is, after the date I ordered it.
    My main reason for writing this is to tell about this Carbargains.org. It's a non-profit wing of the Federal government's consumer protection division.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    "It's a non-profit wing of the Federal government's consumer protection division"

    Not hardly. They say they are "supported entirely by subscription payments and donations from individual consumers who subscribe to our magazines, and by fees for our information services and books".

    Nothing personal duanekelderman, but I'm always a bit suspicious when anyone mentions a site or dealer more than once in their message:-).

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    3/4 ton is a heavier frame, along with tons of other suspension parts. Main features of exteroir/interior are the same. Ride is stiffer and sits up higher that a 1/2 ton.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    Just wondering about the carbargains thing. If it is truely a federaly run thing shouldn't it have a .gov at the end?
  • rauch56rauch56 Member Posts: 4
    I saw the post about wet windows days after a rain or carwash. I too have this problem. Anybody else?
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