Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Odie
Also... we have decided to write a list of 4 vehilces that each of us wants to look at and we each will scratch one off the others list.
My list as stands is as follows; (not in prefence order)
1. Mazda 5 Touring
2. Mazda 6 Sport Wagon
3. Scion xB (loaded)
4. Pontiac Torrent (may be replaced with Jeep Wrangler 4dr)
Her list that I know of;
1. Honda Pilot
2. Jeep Grand Cherokee
3. Jeep Commander
4. Saturn Vue Redline
At least I'm the one being sensible and trying to stay UNDER $28,000 (limit I set for price).
Odie
This is my CarSpace site hosted by Edmunds.
Odie
I'm waiting on the introduction of the '07 Chevy Trucks to see what kind of mileage they get with DoD. Currently getting about 17-City and 22-25 Hwy. on the Escape, not bad, but the mileage for the 3.0 V6 has never been anything great. On the Freestyle 3.0 mileage is better, but I thnk the tranny is geared differently for better overall mileage.
When first starting the truck and moving from Park to Drive it takes what seems to me to be a long time to shift into Drive - and the truck jerks when the shift happens.
Then, once driving the truck jerks again when I step on the gas pedal. This usually occurs when driving more than 100km/h. It's almost like the truck's automatic shifting isn't keeping up with my use of the gas pedal. I keep thinking I could do a better job if it were a manual.
This could be perfectly normal - but I don't recall either of these things happening on my previous car.
Any help/advice would be appreciated!
No, I haven't checked the transmission fluid. I can try that - I hope it's that simple! However, it's been like this since I brought it home the first time and I would have expected fluid levels to be things they'd check when they first gave me the truck. (Possible wishful thinking.)
If that's not the problem, I'll bring it in. :-(
The 6 is very peppy.
Mark.
Kassandra
If you drill a hole, you will clear up the moisture but you will also cause your Halogen bulb to burn itself out.
Mark.
last time i did it, it did the same thing too.
i'll just get it replaced every spring instead of every 15k, since it is only driven about 13k per year.
1. The fuel consumption is terrible, about 8km/lt on mixed town and highway driving (my 4.0 G Cherokee isn't much worse!!)
2. The auto gear change is very shifty and there is a delay on the 2 - 1 down shift so turning at an inter section makes the car jerk, engine rattle etc.
Are these usual for the vehicle? The dealer doesn't give much help and the car is quite rare in this part of the world.
Any feedback is gratefully rec'd.
Thank you.
All of the discs have major roads for the whole country. Its the local roads for each region that are on the individual discs.
There really is no solution for this set up.
Mark.
This short list now stands as; (not in any particular order)
1. 2006 Mazda5 (possible 2007 model)
2. 2007 Mazda CX-7 (wife like this)
3. 2007 Ford Edge (if available)
4. 2006 Ford Freestyle
5. 2006 Honda Pilot
6. 2006 Scion xB (I'm still holding onto this one)
7. 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited 4dr (if available)
Odie
Odie's Carspace
tidester, host
The Mazda CX-7 is getting pretty good reviews around the net... :shades:
Odie
Odie's Carspace
Odie
Odie's Carspace
P.S. - We stopped for lunch at a Chinese restaraunt and I was surprised by the Fortune Cookie I had gotten. It read "Opportunity is knocking on your door - answer it tomorrow." My wife didn't see the irony in it, but I thought it was hilarious. And you know I'm gonna play the numbers on the back in the Powerball Sat night too. :shades:
P.S.S. - I will continue to watch this group because if a question should arrise about an '01 escape I might have an answer for you.
Some "opportunities" are best avoided!
Regarding the PowerBall - I usually pick the RIGHT numbers but PowerBall always messes up and draws the WRONG ones.
tidester, host
BTW green pilots depreciate the fastest...
JUST KIDDING. GOOD LUCK MAN
Mark.
Odie
Odie's Carspace
Odie
Odie's Carspace
Mark.
Odie
Odie's Carspace
Please let me know how you do.
Charlie.
It's a stupid question, but I really don't know it:(
Besides, when I checked the car the mechanic told me there are some oil leakage from the rear shocks. He said it's a very typical problem on escapes/tributes. I don't know how much I need to pay to replace them. Does anyone have similar situation?
Mark
(some lincolns are tuned for premium.)
If your Escape has over 60-70K miles and the rear shocks have not been changed, then, they probably need to be changed-out. Same with the front struts, but you may be able to get a few thousand more miles from them. I changed my struts and shocks at about 70K miles and it has helped. I went with Monroe Sensa-Trac for the struts up front and the shocks at the rear. I don't know how 'typical' it is on Escapes as opposed to other vehicles, but all vehicles struts and shocks will have to be replaced if one plans to keep a vehicle past 100K miles. It definitely improves driveability and handling. Typically it will cost about $400.00 - $600.00 to have them replaced depending on your own ability. I changed the rears out myself (it was kind-of a hassle, but did it in ~3-hours. Make sure you have all the right tools (sockets, wrenches, etc.) before you start. I believe the rear shocks were about $40.00 a piece, with the front struts running $75.00 a piece. I had a mechanic friend help with the struts, but the labor charge would be about $300.00 for the front struts alone, plus the front-end needs an alignment once the new struts are in. All-in-all in could be as high as $700.00, but probably cheaper if you buy the parts yourself and take them to a shop. Some shops will do this and not warranty the parts, just the labor. Typically shops get the parts just above cost and add 10-20%+ for their profit for the part. This is totally legal and legit as they are in effect guaranteeing the part for you. It may come out in the wash, as consumers don't get the same pricing a shops for auto-parts.
If your seats are leather, use a leather conditioner to softem them a bit.
www.toptiergas.com
Mark
To those ends, we will be shutting down the general make/model discussions and work exclusively with specific issues. This requires us to populate the make/model subsections with relevant, interesting and timely topics. Rather than having the hosts simply create boilerplate topics for each make/model, we feel that you, the owner, the make/model enthusiast and the prospective buyer can best judge what those topics should be.
You can help by adding a discussion (it's easy!) or suggesting one here.
To add a discussion, click on the last link in the "You are here" line at the top of this page. That will take you to the topic page for this make/model. Review the list of topics and click on the "Add discussion" link when you've decided what topic you'd like to add. Follow the directions and you're done! Feel free to add more than one. Just avoid duplicating existing topics and try not to make it TOO specific!
Your help and continued participation in the Forums is greatly appreciated! Thanks.
Thanks
Bruce
Make/Type Ford (4-Speed Automatic Overdrive) (CD4E)(1)
Ratios (to 1):
1st 2.889
2nd 1.571
3rd 1.000
4th — OD 0.698
Reverse 2.310
Converter 2.072
Lubricant Capacity (pt.) 18.5 (12.3 Without Torque Converter)
Helical Gears All
Converter Size & Type 9.25″ Lockup
1. Includes auxiliary oil cooler.
Bruce
Bruce
The compass desplays in the lower left of the message center, assuming there is no warning message displayed.
Its just a letter, N, S, E, W.
Its on the window sticker, so it dang well better be on the vehicle.
Mark.