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It was the wires & distributor - ran great after that although I sold the van 1-1/2 years ago but she served me well...
B,
ago I went to get gas and he wouldn't start . A friend helped us get him home . We changed the
pick-up coil and the ignition coil , because there was no spark . We now have spark but he will
only start with starter fluid . When he is running ,runs great . Please help this is our only
transportation .
Thank you to all here for your suggestions.
only happens in traffic and middle of day, at might it can be 85 and runs with no problem. have plenty of gas, new fuel filter and nothing on the dash - no codes. ?
thanks
Picked up this van earlier this year from people I knew. no major issues and was ran last winter by previous owner. approx 185K on her. Is a Debut Conversion Van, Door tag says Built in '99. May be a 98.
I picked up a coolant temp sensor to change out for it (no pigtail version) and i noticed mine is a bit different as it only has one wire and lead on it with a single wire, and the one I got to replace it has the same connector shape but has 2 pins on it... So that will be taken back and replaced with the correct unit.
Issue started to occur a few months back on the first of a few cold days here in the Mitten State. Would not start in am, then started early pm no issues. seemingly ok afterwards. Then a month later it happened again. same deal, except it started an just shortly afterwards, hr or 2 max, then seemingly ok. the next week, it did it again, and that is when I noted the Below 45ish*F pattern emerging.
So long as it was warm outside, basically at least say 45*F outside, it starts and runs just fine with zero notable quirks or issues. but once it was about 40* and Lower outside, then it would do its thing. Once or Twice, I do seem to recall an ever so slight hesitation/miss in the course of normal driving. But it was so minor, I doubt most people would have noted it.
Starts up great. Runs about 2 to 3 seconds, then shuts down as if you turned the ignition off. Ether sprayed through the intake will keep it running when this issue is happening. had it running a Minute or so today on spraying ether, hoping to create enough heat to warm it up and get it running so I can drive it over to the Mechanics place, so he can freeze his [non-permissible content removed] and beat up his hands, while I freeze my [non-permissible content removed] and go to work outside and make some money to pay him. lol
Overall though, it is the same issue until it gets over that low 40ish hump. When it's warm outside, it starts and runs just fine.
Check Engine Light has came on and went off, but I haven't a code reader, nor have I taken it by to have it looked at, now its below 40* all the time, and I would like to get this resolved.
I have replaced:
Cap,Rotor,Coil,Wires, and picked up new plugs, but have not replaced them yet, as it seems an unlikely culprit.
Considering multiple plugs would have to fail simultaneously to happen, and all because of the colder outside temps, which just seems to be a very low probability. It has been a few years since the previous owner did a Tune Up as he can Recall, (maybe 4 or 5), SO these things were replaced just out of good maintenance principles.
So, got plugs, just have not changed them out yet. Also swapped out the Intake Air Temp Sensor that just slips into the air intake duct between the air cleaner and the intake to no avail.
Fuel pump gives me just a smige over 60lbs of pressure when its turned on, and runs steady at 56 to 58lbs when it starts and runs in the warmer temps. Fuel pump seems to be ok.
Dist Shaft is Solid, zero Play laterally, and no play in rotation.
Warming the Coolant Temp Sensor and Distributor with hair dryer did not "FOOL" the sensors into starting and Running.
When it starts then stalls and starts and runs, the only other difference I can note besides the below 45*F Temps, is that it stalls, and refused to run. It is almost as if it is being purposely shut down by a sensor. Had one guy who is a mechanic to get the Coolant Sensor and replace it, as it is probably reading its too cold outside to run and the computer is then shutting the motor down, making the decision the engine block may be frozen solid as its faulting out reading its 40 below outside, along that nature.
Any help would be appreciated.
Ok, Ive read a few and scanned a few, most of you seem to have over 200k miles, think about this, as the "poppets" age they develop a type of resin inside the tubes and the actual poppet valve that hardens the plastic parts, requiring greater effort by the fuel pump causing premature failure of pumps, one after another with a "fresh" pump fixing the problem for a few days/weeks. ignition parts are usually pretty solid unless installed improperly (against metal of any type for the wires) fuel delivery is buried and hard to get to, most people dont use fuel injector cleaner every 20k adding to the problem. If all ignition checks good, It's like;y the spider injector assembly inside the intake at fault, while cleaners do clean metal injectors well in most cases, most have a hard time softening 200k mile fuel lined brittle plastic. New spider has fixed many of these problems all but one time I have replaced one. 9 replaced, one wasn't the spider, I was young and didn't care and I don't know what wound up fixing that one.