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I bought the LTX for its 6-ply strength so that when I do go off road I will have the added protection. Also it doesn't hurt to have a stronger tire for the street to prevent flats and other damage caused by the things we run over. If you can afford to the LTX is still the way to go especially for comfort and handling. Good luck.
I've had a feeling all the Firestone bashing is overblown. Maybe my "tires is tires" is faulty thinking. I could be convinced if a tire change would improve my grip enough to stop the antilock brake problem. I just don't wanna spend 400 bucks so I can have a different name on my tires. Any thoughts? What do I buy and what do I do with nearly new Firestones (4k miles on odometer)?
1) First, let's not assume everything is right with the ABS system. It's possible there is a problem with the proportioning valve or an ABS wheel sensor. A process of elimination might be in order here.
2) Believe it or not, brakes do not stop your Tahoe, or any other vehicle for that matter. Tires do the stopping. Doesn't matter how good your braking system is, if the tires will not grip the road and stop the vehicle, it's all worthless.
3) If tires were just tires then there would be only one or two tire mfr's making tires for every vehicle because, hey, what difference does it make?
4) Final point: Let's not over analyse this particular problem. You have an issue with one specific condition on one little tiny patch of road. I'll bet a paycheck that a huge variety of vehicles have a similar problem on that patch of road. Tires cannot grip what they cannot grip, regardless of brand, size, tread pattern, tread depth, air pressure, weather conditions, etc etc etc. My advice is to drive carefully over that stretch of road or bypass it altogether.
Rereading your original post, I think you already know the above, but I decided to leave it in case it might help someone else.
Balancing tires only on the inside (or only on the outside) can be done, and is known as a static balance. Basically, the wheel is weighted so that there are no "heavy" spots. This is a simplified version: imagine a broomstick through the center of the wheel, with the broomstick resting on two sawhorses. Spin the wheel 'till it stops. Add a weight at the top, the bottom is the heavy spot. Repeat until the wheel no longer stops at a particular spot. This is bad compared to a dynamic balance (achieved with a balancing machine). Basically, with a static balance, the wheel can be "balanced" perfectly, but still wobble when going down the road. Back to your original question, for clarity purposes I think it would be wise to specifically ask the tire shop to use stick-on weights (both inside and outside). Even clamp-on weights can fly off, and if the balance job is bad, you will know it.
Never skimp on tires. It's been posted before but seriously, in an emergency a good set of tires can make the difference. Tires are constructed from various types of rubbers and synthetic compounds that enhance wear and traction depending on the surface they were designed for. Example, winter tires are a softer rubber compound that holds it's form in colder temperatures as well as usually having sipes and or larger spaced lugs to handle snow and ice.
Tires also have either steel or nylon/polyester belts or both for rigidity and strength. The bonding agents used to seal the rubber to these belts is also important. Hot conditions can cause these bonds to weaken and fail as well as heavy loads, although this process usually takes quite a bit of time to occur under stressfull driving conditions.
Being in the tractor trailer lease business, we never skimp on our tires. You see quite a few truck tire carcasses on the roads, usually because somebody tried to recap their tires one too many times or who purchased a low quality low cost tire to save a few bucks. The end result is that they spend more for road side assistance and replacement costs than to spend a few extra dollars up front for a better quality tire.
Keep the tires balanced and the vehicles alignment in place and you should get your monies worth and miles worth out of your tires.
That reminds me of the Inuit (Eskimos) who have something like 40 or 50 words for "snow." Some people are more discerning than others and knowing the distinctions can matter especially if your life depends on it.
tidester
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SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
Thanks, Steve!
tidester
Host
SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
The Firestones on my Tahoe seem ok to me, but please tell me if the darn things are dangerous. Everyone holds their collective noses when you mention Firestone. But why? Am I tempting fate to drive 95mph down the interstate on a hot day loaded down with GM OEM Firestones? Will I see a recognizable difference if I switch to a set of Yokahamas or Goodyear or whatever. I'm game to trade up since the tires are the "only thing between me and the road".
FWIW, Consumer Reports rates the BFG Long Trail TA, Bridgestone Dueler, and Michelin LTX M&S high in their all-season SUV tire ratings. I replaced the stock Goodyears with the Long Trails on my Explorer and the road noise was significantly reduced.
Tires are overheating in the following cases:
1. when tires are inflated low / underinflated, or/and
2. when the vehicle is loaded / overloaded, or/and
3. when driving at high speed (on highways) for long distances, non-stop or with short stops, or/and
4. in very hot weather.
The worst is when several of these cases combines, and
5. the tires themself are marginal.
The number 1 was characteristic for Explorer: Ford used to recommend inflating the tires to 26 psi only, and many owners did not maintain even this pressure.
The number 2 happens especially often with SUV, because the huge volume invites overloading, but load capacity, as a rule, is low. Often less, than for typical sedan.
Most accident with tires happens under conditions 3 and 4.
All tires are rated A, B, or C concerning heat resistance. Tires rated C are marginal by definition: just passing Federal limits. Good enough for typical commute, but not for demanding driving conditions. No margins for defects, errors and neglect, either by manufacturer or owner.
The heat resistance rating correlates with speed rating - because heat builds up on higher speed. Typical touring tires are rated B, performance tires - A. SUV being traditionally considered slow vehicles, Explorer tires were (are?) rated C only. Even while, in reality, SUV and light tracks in general are driven as hard as any other passenger car.
I had a TLC with the SAME tire size as the Firestone/Explorer. I had Bridgestone's and Michelin's. I ran between 32-35 psi. While the FORD Explorer recommended 26psi. If I had used the same sized Firestones on the TLC, I would also have run them at between 32-35 psi. So for the same tire we have almost radically different operating pressures. If I can sum it up, 6-9 psi of difference. If I had let my tires get to 26 psi I would have been truly horrified, yet for the Explorer that was the recommend psi!!!!
The relation:
These SUVs are mid size with similar tire sizes (within 1 size of each other).
yarakum - that was a nice, to the point summary
One last question. Speed ratings. How important is speed rating for a person that would never drive 100MPH, but would maintain 70-75 on the highway. So much is put on H/V/Z/ ratings? I had Michelin X-one's on my old mercury and loved them. I just found out they are T-rated (118MPH). Should I avoid them?
Thanks for the education,
Jim
What's the best tire? - Well, if life was that simple there would be only one mfr of tires for all cars. The "best" tire depends on a lot of factors, some being price, performance in various driving conditions, tire wear, tire quality, your driving style, and some others. We have no idea what the best tire for you is unless we know exactly what you want a tire to do and what the priority list is. Since there are plenty of compromises to be made you'll have to decide which attributes are important and which aren't. I'd suggest going to some of the tire mfr websites and search out their info. Also check out http://www.tirerack.com and read up on tires. Get an education first then decide what to buy.
Plus Zero sizing - One question - why? I don't understand why one would go to Plus Zero since the benefits are so minor. A shorter sidewall provides a slightly stiffer ride and slightly better steering response. Can you tell the diff between a 50 series and a 55 series tire? I'm betting No.
Speed ratings - Speed ratings are important and not just for speed. If you scroll back to the beginning of posts here you'll find numerous discussions about this topic. Suffice it to say that there is alot more to speed ratings than how fast you can drive on them safely. Speed ratings played a part in the Explorer/Firestone debacle. Keep that in mind as you are doing research.
Thanks again,
Jim
I purchased a 2000 Mazda Protege ES two years ago. It was shod with crappy Bridgestone Potenza RE92s -- the same tires I totaled a car with due to hydroplaning in 1992 (that's an entirely different story, but if you want to read how poorly they perform in rain, just go read the customer reviews of them at tirerack.com). Even worse, they came in a near-nonexistent size -- 195/55-15. There were, and still are, only a handful of tires available in that size. By going Plus-Zero at the recommendation of a tirerack CSR, I was able to purchase a set of wonderful Dunlop SP Sport A2s for my car in the 205/50-15 size. The new tires are about 1/2-inch wider than the stock ones, so I guess cornering may be a little better. But honestly, I think the differences are more attributable to the design of the tire than the difference in size, aspect ratio or width. All I know is, Plus Zero sizing allowed me to get these great tires which I didn't even know I could consider until I learned about Plus Zero!
Meade
It gave me a wider tire, without going to a shorter sidewall, therefore keeping ride comfort pretty decent on the Civic.
I, for the life of me, cannot fathom how people can ride around on 16, 17 or larger tires with such short sidewalls. Look at the 70's Corvettes with 225/70R15 tires.
Treat them right, look for nails, cracks, or uneven wear; keep properly inflated, don't overload or use beyond their speed rating (too much); and replace when at the wear strips.
http://www.rma.org/tiresafety/tiresafety.html
Bridgestone Dueler H/L
Michelin Cross Terrain SUV
Michelin LTX M/S
Nokian WR
Of the listed tires the Nokian WR is the only “4 season” SUV tire to earn the severe service emblem, but I have not been able to find any reviews on them.
Any suggestions on the above listed tires would be appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks in advance.
Another idea is to pick up a used set of 16" TL wheels off of E-bay and buy snowies for them. Could save some $$ that way.
1. Dunlop SP Sport 9000 in P195/50ZR16 83V.
2. Dunlop SP Sport FM901 in P195/50R16 84V.
3. Toyo Proxes T1-S in P195/50R16.
I was wondering if anyone had any opinions about these or any other high performance tires in small, front wheel drive sedans. TIA.
Do you really haul heavy loads or do rough off-roading?
Just trying to help.
Any other tire suggestions?
If it were I'd buy a set of good winter tires and switch at first snowflake.
If so, you might even be OK for snow as is.
Hopes this helps.
I thought it was a pretty good deal. Never cashed it in, the truck was totaled about 6 months later.
Thanks,
I like the Michelin X-One's on my smaller van.
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Thanks again!
Long tread life - Michelin X-One, Toyo 800 Ultra, BFGoodrich Control T/A M80
Smooth, quiet ride - Michelin Symmetry or Bridgestone Turanza LS
Sporty and responsive - Dunlop SP Sport A2 or Yokohama Avid H4/V4
Good 4 season tire - Cooper Lifeliner SLE
Yes, the X Radial Plus is essentially the same tire as the X One, just rebranded for the warehouse clubs. Keep in mind that the warehous clubs are the only places that will provide warranty service. The typical Michelin dealer won't mess with them. Same goes for private-labeled Goodyear, BFGoodrich, Bridgestone, etc.
My next choice is Dunlop SP sport A2s. But they aren't as cheap as I was led to believe. Yes @ Tirerack they are $58 each but locally I can get them mounted and balanced for $89 each. This is getting close to Michelin range.
Absolutely outstanding tires for rain, excellent for dry pavements. When I bought the tires, they shared the top and second place in its category according the Tirerack user surveys; currently even better tires became available, and the SH-30 were relegated to the 3-rd place.
If I remember it right, the price of my tires, including mounting, stems, balancing, taxes, and disposing of old tires was about the same as your quote from Dunlop. Additionally, I paid about $50 for alignment, and bought road hazard insurance from Firestone. Used it once, when caught a screw.
I didn't initially consider the Dunlops because I wasn't looking for a high performance tire. But tire rack surveys are convincing me on the overall balance of the SP-A2s, although when actually looking at the Dunlop tread design, I question their snow performance. We didn't have hardly any snow this season (upstate NY) so no direct input there. I wonder if the tire rack survey conclusion on the SP-A2 snow performance is biased because people bought them as a high performance tire.
Anyone have experience with Dunlop SP sport A2s in snow?