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Comments
Love the car, although my wife loves it more
2 problems so far
Homelink and code dodger will not program. Is there a special way to program. I tried both ways in the manual, neither work.
Is anyone else having problems with the front seat belt sticking between the seat and the side between the doors. Also somewhat difficult to engage the seat belt in the center when first put it in place.
Thanks.
As to seatbelts getting stuck - I am assuming you are talking about the buckle being stuck sideways between the door pillar and the seat. I have that problem and a lot of people posting here also indicated that. I think it's a design flaw and have learned to hold on to the seatbelt when unbuckling and sort of guide it manually into place. One solution that I think would work (although I haven't tried it myself) is to move the plastic button that prevents the buckle from sliding down on the seatbelt up. This way the buckle will be up higher on the belt and above the narrow spot between the pillar and the seat. In my car both sides (driver and passenger) get stuck. I think it is a Toyota design problem because the same thing happened in my Corrola. Yup, that's what I drove before getting the RX ;-)
After two chips on my 2001 RX, I've decided to invest in the film treatment.
Does anyone know who/where in the NJ area are "experts" to do this, as I have read that there is a technique to doing it right..?
Also, has anyone replaced the speakers in the front doors..? Mine have a annoying Buzz, and I'd like to find out how easy/difficult it is to get the grills off and any wiring issues.
Also, any recommendations for replacements would be appreciated.
Thanks,
ED in NJ
We took a 200 mile roundtrip today (to an awesome Mopar-show near Atlanta), all Interstate, with an average of 18.5 mpg at 75-85 mph. This reinforces my assumption that something has changed within my car.
I filled up at a different station (different brand, too), to eliminate this as the source of the problem. On prior trips, my gas mileage was always between 19 and 19.5, my wife's usually above 20 mpg (?). Now even she can't get beyond 20 mpg any more.
What are feasible reasons?
Tire pressure - checked
Fuel quality - switched with no improvement
Mechanical binding - doesn't feel like it
Freshly painted pass. door adding to drag - not probable
Wife put on weight - *blush*, peace
My weight - get outta here...
Controller (ECU) malfunction - who can be trusted with a diagnose?
Well, maybe I should simply swing by the dealer to hear what they can come up with as a reason.
Still hearing Hemis scream Tarik
Another suggestion is to have them clear/flash the transmission ROM. If you remember, the Rex has a "learning" transmission that will adapt the shift points to the driver's habit. I'm not 100% on this, but it might be that after a certain amount of miles it stops adjusting itself. I've heard of folks resetting the transmission after break-in period and MPG/accelartion improved.
Keeping my fingers crossed TC
Go to http://www.stongard.com/sgcontent/where_get.asp
Next select either a mail order or wholesale distributor. I can tell you that one company, Manchester Honda in CT, might be close to you.
Call the distributors and ask them for a recommended installer in your area. Any auto shop that does good window tinting can install Stongard since many of the techniques are identical.
Good luck.
Gas mileage: differential tire pressure front vs rear? Viscous clutch would burn a lot of energy trying to match up turning rate.
Stonegard film: Why bother, what are you going to do with the chips and scratches around the wheel wells? Just consider them badges of honor from the (road) wars.
Even *with* the buzz, it's still one of the most, if not *the* most, awesome sounding sound systems I've ever experienced stock in a car. Everyone who's heard it says it's the best they've heard too. What's not to love about those cute little tweeter speakers staring at you?!
Our local Lexus dealer (Smithtown, NY) assured me that this was not an issue because Lexus' sheetmetal is galvanized. The estimate for success in this case was 96% because the horizontal crash bar is located just behind the door curvature, making access difficult. I decided to go f/it at the dealership figuring the guy who comes to do it works on Lexus all the time so he would have more experience in how the metal reacts.
When I returned in (2) hrs I was absolutely amazed and surprised to find that the crease was 100% gone...I mean from any angle and any lighting that crease was completely removed! Made a believer out of me. (cost was cheap I thought @ $125.00) Of course, like any process, the ability of the person doing the job can vary. (we've all seen good and bad pin stripers). In this case, I certainly had one of the best!
I only have the "after" photo, so here it is :
If you are not familiar w/the process just do a search w/your favorite search engine (I like "google") enter "PDR" and there will be many informative sites returned.
The only real solution is for people to be more considerate of each other's property (i.e. vehicles) - no matter what anyone drives.
But I'm so impressed by the work, I'm taking my other vehicle next week to have the same work done again!
The audio in my 92 LS would sometimes begin to "rumble" and I noticed that it only did this on the CD that was in slot #1.
Finally realized it was the trunk mounted woofer "talking" to the CD transport. Turning down the bass slightly seemed to alleviate the problem.
If your speakers only buzz at high volumes maybe the door speaker, or the woofer mounted under the passenger seat, is "talking" to the nearby CD transport in the glove box.
In the days of vacuum tubes it wasn't at all unusual for a tube to become sensitive to vibration and create a positive feedback link via sound waves. Don't know what in a CD transport might be sensitive to sound (or magnetic waves from a powerfully driven woofer).
I never even test-drove an RX300 when I bought the Toyota. My impression based on looks alone was the car was too small. The darn thing looks tiny maybe due to that kinda strange, high belt line. Anyhow, now I'm jealous each morning as my wife zooms off in her piece-of-granite, amazingly quiet Lexus. I'm looking at the specs for the RX300 and it certainly looks bigger on paper than I took it to be....75 cubic feet max cargo is close enough to respectable, bigger than Jeep GC and not that much smaller than widely acknowledged, generous Explorer @ 88.
Do you RX owners find the Lexus tall and wide enough to actually carry stuff....or is it just a tallish wagon, nice for luggage but too small to carry a dishwasher home from Home Depot? I don't see much on this thread complaining about the small size. Not long ago when Jeep GC carried it's spare in the back, you read nothing but complaints about the lack of space in the rear. Any comments?
The RX seems more weight-limited rather than size-limited. I've seen various numbers on load capacity, but they seem to cluster around 850 lbs. That's people and luggage, so you probably don't want to take five beefy guys fishing in an RX.
Was wondering what you all think about the Lexus Platinum extended warranty: 6/100,000 miles for $1725. Finance person tried to sell it to us and said it must be purchased within the 1st 30 days of owning the car. I went to Lexus web site and it said warranty can be purchased within 3 yrs and 36,000 miles. I am of the understanding this is an Exclusionary warrranty.
1. Is it worth it?
2. Can the price be negotiated?
Thanks for your help!!
For those times when I must transport more than 2 bikes or need the cargo area, I use a Yakima bike rack attached to the tow hitch.
Pete
1. Is it worth it? That all depends on how long you intend to keep your car. If its for the long haul, over 6 years, then it may be a good idea. Although Lexus has a great reliability record, just one major repair will make you wish you purchasd the extended warranty. Its nice to have that piece of mind. Also, does your RX have the nav system? If so, then the platinum warranty would be nice, since it covers the stereo and nav.
2) Can the price be negotiated? Yes. When my sister purchased her 2001 RX, the finance manager tried to sell her the platinum warranty for $2200! Needless to say, she declined and I called the dealership where I get my GS serviced. The finance manager offered the same warranty for $1500. I had almost 35,000 miles on my GS when I purchased the warranty. Your finance managers statement that it must be purchased w/in 30 days is BS. I'd call around for a better price. Good luck
Thanks
Pete
Drew
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I'm bascially numb. It's like a bad dream...
I just checked www.1sourceautowarranty.com
rx300 2wd with 1000 miles in Colorado is
$1,025 for 10 YEARS or 100,000 and NO DEDUCTIBLE.
You can check more on warranty companies at edmunds finance/warranty/insurance.
Just like in investing, do your own due diligence.
No chance yet to see my friendly dealer on the gas mileage problem, but hopefully early naxt week I'll have an opportunity.
Later,
Tarik
Let us know how the dealer visit goes.
Praying for those not found yet TC
Hi!! I live in Ga. also and having leased two Lexus's the same day back in '96, I can assure you that you can definitely get a better price in Atlanta. This was back when the GS300 was HOT, HOT and even being a certified car, they wouldn't give an inch. The pricing was more rigid then and the GS was difficult to find (certified, that is), but I'd strongly advise you to check Priceline, as the guys here will attest to, and compare prices elsewhere.
Happy shopping!!:)
Like others, I've followed the engaging and informative conversations and advise on this wonderful forum for quite some time. Having owned two Lexus's before-selling us on Lexus suv's isn't necessary. However, my family is moving to the Western NC mountains soon. We will definitely need an AWD vehicle as there are many steep slopes and switchbacks (incredibly sharp curves for those not knowing "mtn-eeze"!) Also, there are some gravel roads I would have to travel over at times. Will the Rex AWD give me the confidence and traction I'll need to travel these roads and condition daily? Our home will be at 5,000 ft above sealevel (what a view). I am leaning to the LX470 for more room and a little more size as we have three teenagers and two dogs; however, hubby is leaning towards the Rex as a scoot about town vehicle. We have a LS430 for longdistance travel; and two teens have their own cars already, so packing us all in isn't an issue.
Whew...sorry for the wordiness, but can ya give me some advice out there??? I love the style of the BMW suv, but don't like what I'm reading about them.
HELP!!
The LX has a much better AWD setup, but I would still buy the chains just in case.
Since the RX is basically a FWD vehicle, driving downhill on a slippery roadbed will likely be your greatest challenge. I think I have read where the RX will automatically shift into overdrive (if "cruise" is off, to help overcome most of the adverse affects from engine "braking" on the front wheels) when the engine is idling and the vehicle is still moving at significant speed. You can sometimes help matters even more by shifting into neutral in these circumstances.
My gf decided to go with the 99RX over the new Highlander, and were able to get the price much lower than the original asking price. However, she wants to change the rear tailights.
While she does like the new (2001) look, she actually prefers the 99/00 set up. Problem is that she wants to change the red color surrounding the lights to anything other than RED.
Rather than use her current assembly, I was hoping to get my hands on some used ones that are no longer needed by someone on the board here. Do you think it's possible to change the color?
But it seems you have already posted there, so you have your answer already.
At least I know I can always go the 2001 light route, though I'm sure there's a way to open the assembly, change the color, close, seal, and remount on the car... might be cool if the red were black (cars black), with the chrome rings around the lights and all.
anybody on here have some old 99 lights laying around???
The STRANGE part.
Later in the day I was in North Bellingham and needed to get to an address east of lake whatcom. When I started the system the voice came on and immediately informed me that there would be gaps in the map coverage and I would need to use distance and directional guidance only to get through these areas.
Why the difference? There was a gap in coverage in both cases, why the advance warning in one case and not the other?
Could it be that my wife is in your passenger seat?
Sorry ctk1, but I couldn't control myself 8<)
BTW, Recently put Bridgestone H/L tires on our Rex and the ride is much more controlled and firmer, if not a bit noisier. Made a world of positive difference for us.
The Highlander is produced in the same plant in Japan as the RX, and utilizes the same engine, transmission, and all-wheel drive components. In the technical manuals for the HL, the drive system is referred to as:
"A full-time 4WD system which transfers drive power to all four wheels at all times and is fitted with a center differential that has been adopted to achieve a high level of stability and driveability on various road conditions.
Transfer Path
The drive power is transferred from the transaxle to the center differential and to the rear wheels by the transfer [case]. These distributed two sources of drive power are then transferred to the inside [connected to the front wheels] and outside [connected to the rear wheels] of the viscous coupling and if any difference in rotating speed arises between them, thereby achieving the limited slip effect."
[Translations sometimes contain grammatical errors].
A limited slip rear differential is available as an option on the HL but not offered if the vehicle is equipped with VSC.
Looking at the drivetrain schematics and reading the description above, it appears that the RX and the HL have an all-wheel drive system that sends equal power to both front and rear differentials, unless there is a loss of traction at either axle. Then, the viscous coupling acts as a limited slip device, and will instantaneously bias the power flow to the axle with the most traction. As in any drive system, an open differential will cause power to be transferred to the wheel that has lost traction [we all remember the old rear-wheel drive vehicles that sat still with the right rear wheel spinning].
The Tracs [traction control] system available in the HL and RX utilizes the ABS brake system to apply braking to any wheel that loses traction, and allows power to be transferred to another wheel, and prevents wheels from spinning uncontrollably.
If any RX or HL fans have corrections to these thoughts or additional information related to the AWD systems, please let us all know. My apologies for reproducing language from the manual but hopefully it helps to clarify the facts and invite discussion.
Thanks!
Even Lexus admits that the Trac system is electronically implemented and therefore much faster acting than the viscous clutch.
Transfer Path.
Read it yourself.
If this vehicle were truly AWD the input to the viscous clutch(es) would be from the transaxle, not "connected to the front wheels", and there would be two outputs from the viscous clutch(es), one to the rear and one to the front.
Then whichever axle, front or rear, was lagging the turning rate of the (driven) input shift would receive the most torque.
I would publish the actual pictorials from my RX300 shop manual but then someone would simply say that it's outdated because its a 2000 manual.
I think your own text says it quite well enough, the inside (input) of the viscous clutch is connected to the front wheels and the outside (output) is connected to the rear wheels.
Just as I have always said, the transmission output is directly connected to the front drive shaft(s) AND the input to the viscous clutch. As long as the rear drive shaft is turning at the same rate as the front drive shaft(s) the only torque coupled to the rear is via the "latent" viscosity of the viscous fluid.
That's why you ALWAYS have a front wheel torque bias, the engine torque is transferred to the front via a SOLID coupling and to the rear via a viscous fluid. 70/30 latent, and as high as 51/49 in adverse conditions.
My use of input and output does not technically apply if the engine is not delivering torque to the transaxle.