Lexus RX 300

geewiz1 · July 2002

I have a 2000 RX300 and have been looking for the trailer hitch wire plug or lead thats supposed to be in the plastic container under the trunk with the charcoal canister. Well I cant see anything there that looks like I can hook onto to light up my trailer lights.
Does any one have any experience with this???

Thanks

pschiffe · July 2002

I had to tap into the wiring harness on my '99. Used a Hoppy #46255 converter and 3M #804 Scotchlok self-stripping connectors. No "plug" on my RX, don't know about the later models.

Pete

malhokc · July 2002

I was some on ebay not too long ago.

ham1005 · July 2002

I am having problems with the airconditioner on my 2002 RX300. It doesn't get really cold. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Should I contact the dealer? Also, I moved from Seattle, WA to Chicago, IL. Any recommendations on changes to make to the vehicle (oil, fuel grade, etc.)

rerenov8r · July 2002

First, I would STRONGLY advise against a third party warranty-- there is just TOO MUCH incentive for that kind of company to deny all claims until/unless you threaten legal actions... At least with the 'factory backed" warranty their is the incentive for dealer& factory to keep you "in the family"...

Secondly I would question the need/value for any extended warranty. The manufacturers go to considerable lenghts to ensure the vehicles' systems last well beyond the standard warranty period. Whether it is Toyotoa/Lexus, another import/luxury brand or even the domestics they ALL have a "factory certified used" program that can and does warranty vehicles till 7/years 100K miles. They can do this because the ODDS are great that there will be NO warranty payable repairs within 100K miles.

Third, consider the cost of the coverage. Generally, the most prone to failure systems are the cooling system and elctrical accessories. If you had to replace the water pump it is proably about $600-- less than half what the extended warranty would cost, REPAIRS to an electrical accessory even cheaper -- (don't confuse the 'replacement cost' of the electrical accessory with the typical repair fee, a trick I've seen done many times when trying to convince of the terrific value an extended warranty offers...)

I suppose you could say that the warranty buys "peace of mind" but I'd argue that your choice of vehicle is greater peace of mind. Simply DO NOT buy a vehicle with lower than average reliablity!

Finacially the extended warranty STRONGLY favors the issuer. They make LOTS of money. That is why they can offer the warranty at all. Think about it, do you treat your car 'better than average'? If so the warranty should have 'fewer than average' claims with somebody like you. You would likely do better by depositing an amount of money equal to the extended warranty in an intrest bearing account. If any repairs are needed ODDS are strongly in favor of them being less costly than the amount saved up. After the repairs are done it would be smartest, from financial & emotional perspectives, to immeadiately sell/trade in the vehicle for a new model with new warranty and its new "peace fo mind"...

FINALLY it is NOT SMART to keep a vehicle that was purchased new past 5/years 60K miles. Doesn't really matter what kind/make of vehicle (excepting collectibles) the fall-off in value & buyers is VERY steep after 5 years. While different vehicles may depreciate along a steeper slope, it is smart to trade/sell when the gap between what your vehicle would fetch and a replacement's cost is narrowest (factoring in what, if anything you owe to the lender). Simply put, get rid of your vehicle while it can still help you get into a new one. I would suggest that you graph out the rise in new model prices vs. the 'retained value' in your used model. Low miles are an overated virtue, as the model year is a bigger factor in determining value. Right now the spread between your used RX300 and asimilarly equiped 2002 might only be 3 or 4K. (If you have a loan you probably owe much more than that...) When the 03 is available I would estimate another another 2or 3K added on. The 04 would see the spread increase more 3or 4k.(If you have a 48 month loan it would be paid off too...) 05 might be a smaller add on of another 2 or 3K, but you'd already be 10K or more away from a new vehicle. The 06 might see a gap approaching half of your RX300's original selling price. I would suggest you "map out" the point at which you would feel the least comfortable watching your 'retained value' melt versus the 'purchasing power' towards a replacement... I have seen far more vehicle owners hold on to too long than sell too soon, if that "extended warrranty" makes it too easy for you to "hang onto" your RX300, it will cost even more...

wwest · July 2002

The efficiency of the A/C in my 01 AWD RX300 for cooling the vehicle is clearly marginal on a 90F sunny day even here on the eastside of Seattle. Not that we even get any of those since it rains constantly here.

There are a few things you can do to help. Take that "slider" that covers the sunroof and cover its top with the most reflective side of household aluminum foil. Add additional window film to the front side windows. Make sure all of the windows and doors are fully closed.

To most quickly cool the vehicle after it sets in the hot sun "flick the temperature setpoint to max cold, over-ride the recirc function to "fresh" and turn the blower all the way up to more quickly purge the interior air that is likely hotter than the "fresh" incoming air. The cabin airflow exhauster is fairly restrictive so lower one of the rear windows slightly.

If you happen to drive away immediately then the vehicle's aerodynamic nature will prevent most exhauster airflow so as Lexus states, lower the rear windows until most of the trapped hotter air is purged.

Once the cabin interior temperature has reached a temperature at or below the outside world then manually switch it to recirc, close the windows and now as soon as you deem it viable (a learned thing) put the system in fully automatic. It may not seem so but the Lexus climate control achieves its highest cooling efficency with the blower running at its very lowest speed, the longer it takes the airflow to move through the evaporator core the colder it will get.

And, in automatic mode while the system will continue to indicator "fresh" mode it will actually be mostly recirculating already cooled and conditioned cabin air.

On my 92 LS400 I once disconnected the cable that meters the engine water jacket to the heater core and tired the valve off so absolutely no hot water could flow throught the heater core. Very hot day in north central MT that was.

I don't know where, exactly, that water valve is in your RX but you might consider tying it shut for the duration if nothing else works.

I find that the system works best for cooling on HOT days (it works fine in automatic mode if not capacity challenged) if I turn the setpoint to "max cold", set the airflow routing to bi-level, footwell and dash, and then manually monitor/control the blower speed to control the cabin's comfort level.

In "max cold" position the water jacket flow valve should be fully closed if it was correctly set at the factory.

You're now in an area that is famous for being both HOT and HUMID, so you might be amazed to learn that most of your system's cooling capacity is flowing out the condensate drain. "Squeezing" gaseous water into liquid form boils off a lot of refrigerant.

And now, if you bought a dark interior just forget everything above, you're just simply out of luck!

learn2fly · July 2002

I disagree with your suggestion to get rid of a purchased vehicle at the end of 5 years. For maximum ROI (Return on Investment), it is recommended that you should keep the vehicle for 8 to 10 years minimum.
Typically after the first 5 years, you have no more monthly payments to make on the car. So other than regular maintenance of the car, you don't have any other overhead for another 5 years if you keep the car for 10 years. This outweighs any Residual value calculations on your vehicle.
Think about this and you will realize the folly in your argument.

wwest · July 2002

Worse than folly, totally irresponsible.

Even my old Fords, 68 & 75, went 250K miles without undue maintenance costs. My 92 LS400 has about 80k miles, has NEVER been back to the shop, I replaced ONE oxygen sensor in all that time.

Today's cars are an automotive mechanic's nightmare!!!

jeffmust2 · July 2002

Ham -

We have a 2001 RX, black over black and reside in one of the hottest areas within So.CA, semi-desert. Not unusual to see 110-115 F. but humidity is, of course, pretty low vs. Chicago.

Car cools down great if the A/C is operating properly, and yours might not be. So, as Zizzy suggested, have it checked - still under warranty at this point unless you racked-up 50k miles rather fast!

As for other suggestions, I can second that one about tin foil being a major advantage, layered with shiny side up on top of the moonroof slider.

Along with McGyver, the poster that suggested the tin foil trick, I've been able to pick-up radio transmissions from Mars, Venus, and Pluto - and the Moon telecommunications comes in so clear you'd swear it was next door!

Let us know the outcome.

wwest · July 2002

zizzy:

Didn't you just state, basically, that the automatic mode of the Lexus A/C doesn't work in hot and humid climates?

Zizzy's "simple" thermometer test will be meaningless to an A/C shop. What they WILL want to know is the evaporator's inlet air temperature versus the "downstream" temperature. Like zizzy says you can obtain the outlet temperature by using "max cool" (NONE of the system airflow should/will be routed through the heater core) and putting the system manually in "fresh". The indicated outside air temperature will then be approximately the same as the evaporator's inlet air temperature. I would also suggest making the measurement on a fairly low blower motor speed.

jeffmust2 · July 2002

You could take your RX to a Lexus service writer and tell him that the A/C doesn't cool very well compared to other such vehicles you've been in.

Could work.

bigorange30 · July 2002

I agree with wwest and learn2fly. It is total foolishness to sell at 5 years. You should calculate your cents/mile including purchase price, interest, gas, maintenance and repairs. Take all these costs and divide them by the # of miles you drive the car before you sell it. If it is a good car, (Toyota, Lexus, Nissan, Infiniti, Honda, Acura etc.) then it should go 200 to 250 M miles before it starts to break down often. This will make it about $0.25 instead of the $.40-$.50/mile rerenov8r would have you pay. You need to drive a car until it has virtually no value left in it. In the 5 or so years you are not making a payment to the bank, make that same payment to your savings account. Then when your RX300 or whatever is costing you ~$200-300/month in repairs, sell it for scrap if you have to and pay cash for your next car with what you have saved. That is the responsible thing to do. Rerenov8r is trying to line car dealers pockets with his advice. Hmmmmm, maybe he is one.

zizzybalooba · July 2002

wwest, no such statement was made. Please read carefully. I said "Once the cabin has cooled down, I generally run it at Max Cold/Fan at 2 bars with the recirculator on."

I made no reference to automatic mode. Please do not paraphrase me or twist my statements to suit your agenda. Wow, not just denigrating to Lexus automobiles, Lexus owners are now included.

And as I've said, get a grip.

Read again; Once the cabin has cooled down, I generally run it at Max Cold/Fan at 2 bars with the recirculator on.

I cool down the cabin by hitting the Auto button.
The automatic mode is the best! At Auto/Max Cool setting, the fan is wide open and I don't need that much air movement after the cabin has cooled down.

So again; Once the cabin has cooled down, I generally run it at Max Cold/Fan at 2 bars with the recirculator on.

Try copy and paste. It's easier than paraphrasing and saves me time.

ham1005, if you measure the A/C at the vent and it's 40F or higher, it's not meaningless. Tell an A/C shop that the air coming out of the vent is this temp and they'll tell you to bring it in.

My A/C @Max Cool/Recirculate measures 34F.

I've had similar A/C cooling problems twice. Each time, the technician started by sticking a thermometer in the vent. Simple.

wwest · July 2002

The technician was "present and accounted for" at the time he used a thermometer to measure the outlet temperature, if he didn't actually read, or KNOW, the (OAT) inlet temperature his experience would likely have been enough to give him a very good idea what the inlet temperature was (maybe he looked at the OAT indication and you didn't notice). When you call an A/C technician on the phone and give him/her a single point of reference no judgement can be rendered.

In order to know if the system is operating correctly and efficiently one would need to know, at least approximately, the air temperature drop "across" the evaporator.

As it happens you operate your A/C the same way I operate my 01 RX300 A/C in hot weather. IMMHO if I rely on the automatic mode to keep the interior cooled to my passenger's comfort zone, 72F, using a setpoint of 72F, then the Lexus system eitehr neevr gets there or takes way to long to get there and then even when it finally does it's automatic modulation moving from sun to shade can be very discomforting and annoying.

Setting the temperature setpoint to max cool eliminates the system's control loop for adjusting the mixing/blend door (and thereby the cabin temperature comfort level) and always provides outlet airflow with the MAXIMUM cooling applied. When you modulate the blower speed (to two bars) to control cabin temperature your are simply replacing that system control loop with your own "senses".

So as I have said, you proved my point, whether you like it or not.

The Lexus RX300 climate control does not have adequate capacity for HOT climates, and especially so for HOT & Humid climates.

Actually it appears that at the base, or fundamental level, the Lexus RX300 likely DOES have enough cooling capacity provided the control system never routes a portion of the system airflow through the heater core (reheat cycle). Lexus probably decided that the resulting airflow (with no reheat) would be so cold as to be discomforting.

Max cool/recirculate/34F...

Damn that's COLD, gives me chills, shivers, just setting here thinking about it.

zizzybalooba · July 2002

Gawd, when the vent is pumping 40F or higher and it's summertime in Chicago(remember? "an area that is famous for being both HOT and HUMID"), judgement can be rendered. It's not working like it should. The same judgement that ham1005 made without any measurements.

I've proven nothing. There's nothing to prove. His A/C is not performing as well as he likes. Your points remain unclear and irrelevant. Again, please do not twist my statements to suit your agenda.

My auto mode works perfectly well. When I hit auto, it's doing exactly what it's set to do. It's set at Max Cool, and that's what it pumps and attains, Maximum Cool (which is why I turn it down). I want it to automatically turn my cabin into an icebox. It does just that.

I fully expect it to automatically result in a colder, less humid cabin than I prefer, because, outside, it's hotter and more humid than I prefer. This enables me to automatically cool off as quickly as possible.

I suppose I could select a specific temperature, like 72 degrees, and then hit the auto button. The fan would automatically adjust its speed to attain and then maintain that temperature. Whee!

phollie · July 2002

In discussing how long to keep the car...who among us has the highest mileage to date.
I personally have 60k on a 99 rx. I bought it with 50 last fall. Still running smooth. Any one else?

bradsteil · July 2002

I have 29,000 miles on my RX300 and am scheduled in the next few days to take it in for the 35,000 servicing. Just recently the engine light came on. I notice in the owners manual that it could be related to the transmission or engine. I called the dealership asking about if I need to bring my car in sooner than the scheduled appointment and they stated that the emission filter (PVC ?) probably needed to be replaced.

Has anyone had a similar situation and has it turned out to be related to emission filter, etc?

rerenov8r · July 2002

Sorry, I am not shilling for a dealer-- that should be obvious if you read my whole post on the questionable value of an extended warranty.

I will agree that if you have the discipline to "continue to make payments" to your own savings account you would be money ahead hanging onto a vehicle BUT the reality is 99% of vehicle owners will need a replacement when their present vehicle is sold/disposed of and too few come with any significant cash. As such, they are making a highly leveraged purchase, hardly an investment so a "return" (ROI) can't really be calculated. I suppose you could calculate the total expenditures and figure this against against "opportunity cost" but you'd soon have a spreadsheet that looks like something from WorldCom or Enron ;^). The efforts of Edmunds to show TCO are valid, and if people use 'em they'll be wiser for it.

I will stand by my arguement that you often do better using the 'retained value' of one vehicle to lower the TCO of its replacement rather than squeezing the last bit of value out of vehicle and starting over. This is especially true if you own a chain of vehicles with DECREASING TCO, something that is easier to do as several manufacturers are reducing maintence needs in newer vehicles. {I suspect that some makers will find they need to move back towards 'planned obsolence' as the 'lonely mechanic' will eventaully hurt overall profitablity for dealers/manufacturers if people can own trouble free vehicles indefinately.}

I too have seen the "8 to 10 year" maximum value calculations, and they don't hold up for many, many vehicles. The frequency with which models change, the additional optional equipment and the competitive offerings all conspire to make many vehicles worth a fraction of what they were worth new. That is why I emphasized that each vehicle owner should chart out the gap between what their current vehicle is worth and what a replacement would cost.

I also clearly stated that some cars deprecaite along a steeper line than others. Fortunately the Lexus LS sedans are holding value tremendously well, right up there with the best ever. I do not think that the RX300 is doing nearly that well in retained value and length of time on used car lots/supply of new vehicles (sludge factor?, Highlander, competition?). This situation may only worsen when the redesign/replacement bows in a year or so as a 2004 with many changes expected to combat the MDX, streched X5, Cayenne, XC90 etc...

I will concede that I was painting with too broad a brush when I used the 5yr/60K mile number for all vehicles. There are a ton of vehicles that you'd really take a bath doing that. There may even be some situations where driving a vehicle until it has only 'scap value' makes sense, but this is, afterall, a Lexus RX300 forum, and the image factor is a strong influence.

mrrogers · July 2002

was one of several fascinating books by Thomas Malloy. It it he reports that most American millionaires drive Fords. In one of his books he also talks about millionaires buying late model used high end Lexus, Acura, and Infiniti. The stategy is that you keep on offering a low price as you call on private owners, and eventually you will find some yuppie in financial straits who will accept your offer. Malloy does not believe in the stategy of buying new cars, and eating all that depreciation the first three years. Have a nice Fourth.

mikey00 · July 2002

After 7 attempts the dealer finally was able to fix my popping sunroof. The first 6 times he tried lubrication, insulation, felt padding, procedures in an older Lexus TSB and procedures in the Highlander TSB without any success. He finally ordered Lexus part #'s 63217-48010, 63218-48010, 63219-48010 and 63635-48010 which all go under the name of Sunroof Garnish. It has been 2 weeks now and the problem is definetly solved.

fasterthanu · July 2002

I usually don't like using the auto mode because it blows air out to fast. But I don't have any problems with the RX A/C. It was 102 degrees today in NYC, and all I did was set fan speed to 3 notches, let the air circulate a few seconds, and turned on the A/C. The cabin got comfortable within 2 minutes. I only leave the system on recirc because Manhattan air stinks. After driving for about 20 minutes, I would forget how hot it was outside because it was so comfortable - cool - inside. Only by glancing at the external temp gauge would I know it was still 102 degrees out. When people say that the RX climate control system is inadequate, I have to wonder if they ever use common sense in using it (not directed at you, but someone else - a permanent fixture on this board with an interminable streak of animosity towards the RX).

zizzybalooba · July 2002

I agree, that fan can really blast, but on a really hot day I'll take all the air I can get ASAP. The RX 300 Climate control is great. It cools well. It heats well. Everybody is comfortable in my vehicle and I've never had a complaint.

I have experienced none of the A/C problems that have been interminably ranted about and beaten to death in this forum (and unfortunately, others).

I feel these are discussion threads. I don't see participation in this forum as an opportunity to set up one's soapbox and bash the RX 300.

Sadly, there are socially retarded indiduals who troll these forums and post flamebait believing that others will buy into their flaccid rhetoric.

wwest · July 2002

it would be really nice that when you get into your RX on a hot sunny day and the interior temperature is 20F higher than the 102F outside and it's been setting in the sun for hours and ALL of the interior materials and surfaces are thoroughly HEAT-SOAKED the RX A/C would automatically do this:

1. Go to max cool & FRESH
2. change the system airflow exit routing to footwell & windshield (Minimum outlet airflow restriction with no 34F airflow to your face)
3. drop each of the rear windows 2" (the existing exhauster/path is too retrictive)
4. Run the blower full blast for 3 to 5 minutes (purge the HOT interior atmosphere first)
5. Drop the blower speed to a comfortable level, close the windows, convert to recirc, and exiting airflow routing to bi-level.
6. Convert to normal automatic mode, 72F(?) after ECU deterministic routine computes that the interior materials and surfaces have reached an optimum temperature level.

Perhaps I'm dreaming.

But all these capabilities already exist, both of you clearly use some of them. Give me access to the ECU code and a good programmer...

Instead Lexus uses the system in a counter-productive way, cooling 122F air to XX rather than bringing in 102F air (to cool to XX) to purge the 122F air.

tidester · July 2002

There are low tech and high tech solutions to the A/C "problem." One can roll down a window to expel the hot air or one can insist on infrared sensors and algorithmics to do it for you.

I find it amusing that anyone's decision on whether to purchase an RX300 would come down to the 20 seconds or so of thermal discomfort common to all vehicles.

Surely a Lexus has some redeeming qualities! :-)

tidester
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mooretorque · July 2002

Does no one merely hold the "unlock" button down as they approach their car to roll windows down/open sunroof? By doing so, one at least allows the mass of superheated (typically over 130 degrees on 90 degree day) air evacuate quickly. Does nothing about the thermal mass of the interior material, of course, but renders the "recirc" vs "fresh" decision more or less moot for initial cooling.

zizzybalooba · July 2002

it would be really nice that when you get into your RX 300 forum on any day that some people would automatically do this:

1. Go to another car dealer.
2. Trade their Lexus RX 300.
3. Drop their membership in any Lexus forum.
4. Run their mouths somewhere else.(purge the HOT air inside them)
5. Drop the subject.
6. Convert to normal.

Perhaps I'm dreaming.

Give me access to a cattle prod with 50,000 volts for 10 milliseconds...

wwest · July 2002

I would guess that you've never crawled into a black car with a black interior that's been setting in the southern Texas sun all day while you sweated your butt off working in an open bay non-air conditioned box/container plant.

Purchase decision:

Hmmmm...

I'm not discussing anything regarding purchase decision, I guess what I'm really trying to do is to get Lexus to abide by their motto:

"The Relentless Pursuit of Perfection"

Or:

"The Passionate Pursuit of Perfection".

I would think Lexus would find it extremely embarrassing that the lowly Ford Escape SUV has a better and more reliable AWD/4WD system than the RX. At this point in time the only thing that will keep me from trading up to the next RX model, mostly to rid myself of the Nav display (I can tolerate the Nav being useless but the loss of the LCD readout is another matter), will be if they don't fix the rear wheel clearance problem.

It seems to me the only possible harm in pointing out any Lexus vehicle's relatively few flaws is if Lexus itself doesn't pay attention and therefore they simply propagate the few flaws they have into the next model/version.

And...

This isn't HOT air.

Nor is it ink.

Mostly it's a relatively few, universally, damn few, electrons.

tidester · July 2002

I would guess that you've never crawled into a black car with a black interior that's been setting in the southern Texas sun all day...

No, but I'd bet the hot Tucson sun would give Texas a run for its money! :-)

Mostly it's a relatively few electrons.

You got that right! Thermal and electrical conductivity are very closely related.

Happy 4^th!

tidester
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jeffmust2 · July 2002

ever, right?

Until they introduced the Focus.

The same Escape with the steering wheel lock nut coming off, right?

The same Escape with the overwhelming and dangerous fuel leaks from the filler pipe, right?

The same Escape with the interior trim pieces coming off or breaking off, right?

The same Escape with...what...6 formal recalls and a few dozen TSBs?

Right. That Escape.

Why doesn't Lexus EVER LEARN?

The Relentless Pursuit of an Escape.

Makes me tingle all over.

zizzybalooba · July 2002

Motto? These are advertising slogans. Brief attention-getting phrases used in advertising or promotion. Nothing more.

"The Relentless Pursuit of Perfection"
now
"The Passionate Pursuit of Perfection"

These slogans are so unimportant that Lexus just changed theirs to take advantage of the catchy alliteration (head rhyme) of the 3 P's.

Even the name Lexus is an advertising exec's creation.

Where does one see these phrases? Paper/magazine ads, TV commercials, Posters/brochures at the Lexus dealers.

Look in any Lexus owner's manual. Find these slogans there? Not likely.

Electrons? More like dogma.

wwest · July 2002

Tucson:

Hot and DRY, Austin, HOT and HUMID.

Drier air allows the human metabolism, sweat glans, to work.

Ford Escape: Nobody said anything being reliable about the Escape except the AWD/4WD system. Granted it isn't worth considering if the rest isn't reliable but my point was that Lexus should use the Escape's (or the Sequoia's, absent the low range) AWD system (and wheelwell clearance)as a "model" for the RX.

Relentless to Passionate..

No, someone FINALLY realized that "Relentless" really implies an acknowledgement of NEVER getting there.

And are you saying we shouldn't expect Lexus to "Passionately Pursue Perfection" because it's simply an advertising slogan?

Damn, and I always thought that was the reason the entire Lexus product line is the absolute best in the world marketplace.

Advertising, nothing more...Hmmmm....

zizzybalooba · July 2002

Please look up the word relentless. You'll learn what it really means, rather than talking at length about what you believe it implies. It has nothing to do with any acknowledgement of never getting there. Again you are wrong. About 180 degrees wrong.

Relentless: Showing or promising no abatement of severity, intensity, strength, or pace.
See Unrelenting: Not softening or yielding in determination.

Again, please do not twist my words in support of your agenda.

All I said is, "These are advertising slogans. Brief attention-getting phrases used in advertising or promotion. Nothing more."

To quote E.A. Poe, "Only this, and nothing more."

Again, another flaccid argument presented, based upon twisting my (and now other's)words.

You state: I always thought that was the reason the entire Lexus product line is the absolute best in the world marketplace.

You really believe that? Because of a slogan?
LMAO. I repeat, Madison Avenue strikes again.

Can you hear it?
David Hannum laughing in his grave?
-----------------
David Hannum, b.1832 Look him up, too. LOL

stever · July 2002

Can we move along now please?

Steve
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zizzybalooba · July 2002

In the summertime, when I drive anywhere in my Lexus and get out of the spendidly air-conditioned cabin, I sometimes perspire.

Regardless of the humidity, I perspire as do most people in the heat of summertime.

Now, some would actually make the bold assertion that "drier air allows the human metabolism, sweat glans, to work."

Well, that's plain wrong and rather misleading. Sweat glands work regardless of humidity.

Perspiration evaporates faster and cools one more efficiently in drier climates, but people can sweat when they exit their Lexus whether in a tropical rainforest or an arid desert, or even in Arizona or Texas.

Anyway, it's always great to hop back in the Lex and feel that fine, way more than adequate A/C.

tidester · July 2002

... and how fast can an RX300 go from 0 to 60?

tidester
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fasterthanu · July 2002

lol on what you said earlier. Keep up the good work - I would rather not spend time arguing with someone who brings up the subject of the RX AWD system out of nowhere, just to bash it on a daily basis. Or to discuss how the RX is supposedly deficient in its HVAC design for Texas living, when he in fact lives in the Pacific Northwest. At least he's not alone. Theres a guy named Hvan doign the same kind of bashing on te IS300 board, except he apparently owns an Impala.

zizzybalooba · July 2002

... and how fast can an RX300 go from 0 to 60?

According to Lexus:

FWD 0 to 60 in 8.5 seconds
4WD 0 to 60 in 8.8 seconds

But, these performance capacity figures are for comparison only, and were obtained with production or prototype vehicles by professional drivers using special safety equipment and procedures in high humidity situations in Austin TX while during the relentless pursuit of perfection, I mean the passionate pursuit of perfection. These should not be attempted on public streets or highways except with the Ford Escape AWD/4WD system installed or with snow chains only on the front wheels. If you bought a dark interior just forget everything above, you're just simply out of luck!

Mooving along.

zizzybalooba · July 2002

Hvan?
Isn't that a Swedish acronym for "heating, ventilation air neurotic"?
Perhaps it's just a pen name.

Impala?
Isn't that Swedish for Chrysler Town & Country AWD?

tidester · July 2002

Does that mean that braking distances are affected by heat and humidity too? Does AC increase the braking distance since it adds mass to the vehicle? Do Arizonans have fewer accidents than Texans? Will a silver Lexus stop quicker than a black one? ;-)

So many questions, so little time!

tidester
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zizzybalooba · July 2002

Hey, I only reported what I picked up from the Lexus web site.

Ahem, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

dannysf · July 2002

I am going to buy a used certified 1999 RX300 from a dealers lot within the next 3 weeks. I am interested in your experiences on how well the asking prices have held at dealers. I have found 3 acceptable units at 3 different dealers so that they know I'm serious, and that they will have competition. I have also research Edmunds, KBB, Yahoo Auto, and local classifieds for pricing. The general consensus is that off a Lexus dealers lot with certification a well optioned unit will be around $29,500. I was hoping to get it for 15-20% less than that.

As always, negotiations are based upon commitment and research. Any other tactics/strategy approaches will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Dan

wwest · July 2002

FWD or AWD?

Regardless, are you really certain a used 99 RX has enough "value" over a brand new HL to justify the RX?

Looks like to me that maybe you could get a new HL for that 15-20% less than the used RX. The only thing I can think of offhand that you would be losing.......is the RX badge.

A new HL AWD will have the VSC/Trac and that's a BIG advantage over the 99 RX even if it does have LSD.

And IMMHO the HL has a neater, cleaner, "look" about it, less "minivanish" than the RX.

dannysf · July 2002

It would have AWD. The Lexus badge has some importance, but it is not overridding.

wwest · July 2002

If you really feel you will NEED AWD, and I'm speaking serious ON-ROAD wintertime conditions, then you should definitely look elsewhere, neither the RX nor the HL are up to "snuff" in that area.

You can search for my past posts on that subject if you like. If you were purchasing new I would recommend a hard look at the ML (Past MLs have had reliability issues), but since you're looking at used you might even consider the Chrysler T&C AWD minivan.

zizzybalooba · July 2002

dannysf, I caution you against taking recommendations to purchase a Highlander from someone who does not and has never owned a Highlander.

I own a Lexus RX 300. I love it and recommend it, but please build the Highlander you'd like @ www.toyota.com, check out all the options and packages and then do the math.

Used RX 29,500
-15% 4,425
= 25,075

A new Highlander AWD for $25,075? Not likely.
Or 20% off for $23,600? Dream on.

wwest-There are rules in this forum regarding misleading posts. I challenge you to post any link with these prices for a new AWD Highlander.

You lose more than the badge. HID? Please re-read your past posts. Have they mini-vanished from memory?

wwest · July 2002

wasn't included in 99 was it?

And you are right of course zizzy, the best price I see on a new HL is about 26K.

But.

I would still dicker with the Toy salesman first, and then I would advise the Lexus salesman of my "options". In the end the Toy salesman may be able to beat the Lexus' salesman's best CPO deal, it is July, nearing the end of model year.

And by the way, you should expect that the Lexus "certified" sticker adds about $1900 to the sales price.

bigorange30 · July 2002

Why not just go another $5000 and get a brand new one. The payment on a 5 year loan will likely be exactly the same since you can get a lower interest rate on the new one. Then you have less mileage on it and have one that will be worth more when you sell it because it is 3 years younger.

jeffmust2 · July 2002

etc. as the RX300?

In effect, the very same HVAC system one poster on this board has denigrated so strongly on RX and now he's suggesting that others purchase it?

Oh well; as the host would say, that's a Dead Cat Bounce so let's move on...

Dannysf, there's no reason to pick-up a dealer certified RX if they charge more than $500 beyond private party market value for that extended warranty. Piece of mind for the 100k extension (less the mileage on date you purchased it) or 3 years from date of sale to you is a good thing but not if it costs anywhere near a $1900 premium over an RX from a private party.

I've been pleased in the past to purchase a private party used Lexus, a new Lexus, and a Certified Previously Owned (CPO) Lexus. The CPO procedure, which the dealer pays a couple hundred bucks for, in my case was a joke. One example - no spare tire - how's THAT for a 128-point inspection?! Hey, it ain't easy to remember all 128 inspection points, right?

CPOs, IMO, are just a marketing gimmick; notice that the "best" CPO plans are on the vehicles least likely to break down.

If I was currently in the market for a used RX, I'd pick a private party used one with at least 6-12 months left on the warranty and a decent amount of mileage left (original warranty, bumper-to-bumper, is 4-yrs/50k miles, whichever comes first - vs. the Highlander which is 3/36).

In 6-12 months, any serious problems will be apparent and Lexus will take care of them. After that, reasonable maintenance is all you need and perhaps one major dealer service (or good independent mechanic) for maintenance every other year. CPOs don't pay at all for maintenance services.

A lot of RXs are procured via 36-39 month leases and there's a TON of these 1999-2000s coming back to Lexus Financial Corp this year.

Also, most of these leased vehicles have a monthly cap of 1,000 miles so if the owner brings it back with excess mileage, they're responsible at (usually) 15 cents per mile over their end-of-lease 36k. However, if they buy the vehicle at end-of-lease and resell it, they get out of paying any excess mileage charge.

Why not put a classified ad in the largest metropolitan paper near you and offer to buy their RX coming off-lease?

Contract residual value on a 36-month lease for a 1999 RX was probably 60% of MSRP ($32k) or $19.2k. Let's say the original owner has 10k excess miles on it so he's looking at a $1,500 cost just to give it back to the dealer...

If he buys the vehicle for the $19.2k and sells it to you for $20k, he makes a few bucks for his trouble and avoids paying Lexus $1,500. You get a RX still in warranty for $20k but of course you have to add TTL fees - as you would on any used vehicle.

Of course, it's more work than checking out a few dealers but the 4-yr/50k warranty on all Lexus models makes this a viable acquisition method.

zizzybalooba · July 2002

Jeffmust2,

I'm dazzled by your display of cunning, keen
insight and dexterousness in this post.

An RX 300 still under warranty for $20k? Gimme!

And all this with a Dead Cat Bounce to boot?
Too much. Next!

wwest · July 2002

If he's looking to dicker for 15 to 20% off a $29k used 99 RX he isn't likely to be interested in $35k for a new one, especially an RX over an HL. Not that I would recommend either to anyone truly needing AWD, but a new HL will cost substantually less than a new RX.

A/C: I can't say for sure but I would suspect that the HL has the same basic A/C components, heating/cooling capability, as the RX. It's just that the HL is always a manual system and the RX is automatic but must always be over-ridden manually, if one wants satisfactory operation, that is.

Lexus RX 300

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