Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I'm sorry to hear that! YMMV
I think the OEM installed version is a lot better - but I didn't have that choice. And if I had, I'm not too crazy about the Lexus $.
But I will say that I'll never own a car w/o them again - either after market or OEM - I'll have them on FWIW!
(before you ask - got them from HIDS4Less. 4300k Philips 9006 bulbs and Philips ballasts. Pretty easy install)
Autoleveling is pretty much a must in order not to melt the retinas of, and otherwise annoy, the non-HID folks.
Thanks
As a result, I'm looking for a loaded, 4x4, gold colored, nav system equipped, '03 RX300. Any ideas? I did find a nice '02 in Dallas, nav system, 2wd, for under $30K, but I'd really perfer 4wd for when we move back to snow country...one of these days...
Thanks for any suggestions/ideas.
Pete
As a result, I'm looking for a loaded, 4x4, gold colored, nav system equipped, '03 RX300. Any ideas? I did find a nice '02 in Dallas, nav system, 2wd, for under $30K, but I'd really perfer 4wd for when we move back to snow country...one of these days...
Thanks for any suggestions/ideas.
We had a *really* steep gravel driveway in CO, at 9K feet, and as long as you were backing out, you'd be good. Forward was hopeless, but we didn't really have any turnaround room, anyway.
Kelly B
(wanna own an M45...someday)
As it is, I found an '03 used in Dallas, with the nav system, 2wd only, and I'm considering having it looked at (I'm in Portland, OR, unfortunately, but have family in Dallas).
Thanks, again!!
Kelly B
personally stuck with a '99 Suzuki Grand Vitara, 52K miles, and it has a blown rear end...couldn't sell for under trade-in, last year....
Sheba, the Intrepid, did quite well on Yokohama Guardex 600's. Still have 'em hanging around, in fact, on a second set of beatup-able steel wheels.
Oh, and that Dallas 300 I found is an '02, but hey, the price is right.
Kelly B
tidester, host
I've been looking at used prices and it seems to me the dealers should be happy to sell a 2WD model with the premium package for the following:
2004 New MSRP 39,452 sell 38,452 (invoice 35,071)
2003 New MSRP 40,300 sell 34,500 (incl. 1,500 incentive) norm 36,000
2003 Used 32,500
2002 30,000
2001 27,000
2000 24,000
1999 21,000
All with normal milage.
The prices drop all the time, about:
250 a month
750 a quarter (3 mo.)
3000 a year.
The longer on the lot, the lower the price. I see special ads for certified 2000 models for as little as 23,999. They start about 27,000 on the window. This is with normal miles, 38,000 for 2000.
2002 23,500 18k miles
2001 20,500 30k miles
2000 18,200 42k miles
1999 16,500 50k miles
Prices checked today, May 25, 2003, on www.KKB.com.
Prices drop about $250 a month.
If they offer you more it's usually because the're taking less off the MSRP of the new one you're buying.
It would be good to know what you're actually getting, after you negotiate the best price on the new one.
The dealer puts 1000 into it (sometimes tires, brakes, detailing, etc.) and then they want at least 3500 above that to cover overhead, salaries, profit, etc. If they don't sell the vehicle in an alloted time (60 days?) even after marking it "ad special", it's eventualy sold to a wholesaler I beleive near the trade-in value. Sometimes these cars have a problem - rattle, rough idle, bad smell, etc. Knowing this one should be able to ignor the crazy sticker prices and negotiate a decent deal on a used one in very good shape.
New car dealers make as much, if not more, on the trade-ins they get. Most folks get nicely beat up on the trade in, as it's hard to work two deals, in your head. Price changes get easily hidden when you're working a car 'deal'. I've seen it from both sides of the desk, and I'm glad I know what I do from my three painful months selling new cars. Still feel kinda guilty about it, actually.... The final straw was seeing a couple get put into a car they could not afford, as they were shopping payments, and while the payments went down, they didn't understand it was a *6* year note. After that one, I walked out.
RX300-related info: The '02 2WD 300 I found in TX is really being sold through a dealer (says 'private seller' on traderonline.com, I've learned), and even though it's *exactly* what I'm looking for, I'd much rather find one either closer, or from an individual. That's just me, though. I wanna see/talk to the owner.
Kelly B
Original owner is usually best.
A girl here at work was looking for a car, and she plugged it into one of these services, and sure enough, the thing had been totaled, registered in a different state, and it was all in the title history. Now, it's not *always* right, as I looked up our Intrepid, and it shows an odometer 'discreapancy', when we moved from TX to CO. Someone transposed numbers, and it appeared the odo had been rolled back all of 10K miles. Not worth my time to fix, as this car is a long-term keeper.
The two records are probably initial title issuance, and maybe a registration, as it tracks every single event related to the title. Good service, 'sepcially online, where you can just type in a VIN, and get your info.
Kelly B
What would you consider as a good price on a used 2003 with under 10000 miles and all options except chrome wheels (nav is included).
Thanks
Try to look up invoice with the options and then subtract about $3000.
(My guess is the dealer did not give more than $28,000 in trade.)
eMail me off the list if you prefer.
Mark
markl@chiro.org
And even then my advice would be to leave the brake fluid alone until about 100k miles or so, or until some serious level of brake work need be done.
Brake pad change-out is a really simple job but must be done perfectly and correctly to avoid potentially disastrous results.
I agree w/Mr.West however, that a brake job is not for a newbie to maintenance. Best to do it with someone with experience, and learn how it's done right, rather than brake (pun) something trying to do it yourself the first time.
My 2cents
If you ABSOLUTELY know hat you're doing, then tackle the fluid change. But in my most humble opinion the potential for safety hazards is greater for messing around with fluid changes than is with the minor level of moisture contamination over ~100k miles.
Even for master mechanics fluid changes eventually become a standard routine, and that often leads to undiscovered oversights, left to you to discover later. Not to imply that most dealers use master mechanics for routine maintenance work, most use McD "flipper" qualified mechanic helpers.
Unless it is silicone based (DOT 5, e.g.) but is not recommended especially with ABS systems since it is more compressible than the usual (DOT 3 or 4) and tends to absorb air.
tidester, host
Funny, when I posed the same question on the ML board, I got an immediate response with a wonderful web site pictoral reference.
As far as brake fluid, while I am certain I will hear about all the conspiracy therories of how brake fluid should last forever and oil doesn't need to be changed for 30,000 miles yadayada the fact is water and pollutants shouldn't get into a closed system but they do, and they will ruin the ABS system.
That said, does anyone know of a reference for a web site that shows the brake caliber exploded view and/or pad replacement procedure and procedure for replacing the brake fluid?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&cate- - gory=6762&item=2417664957
Lots of neato pictures, diagrams, exploded or not - and, it's a good place for you to get those cheap brake pads and brake fluid as well.
Engine lubricating oil is subject to the byproducts of combustion and therefore should be changed out on a reasonable schedule.
You can believe what you want about brake fluid but my opinion still stands the test of time.
Thanks,
Ryan
Thanks!
Center diff'l is also quite visible.
My local dealer has at least a dozen used RX300s. They've got so many, 4 or 5 are parked out back, not even on display yet. I assume most of them are lease turn-ins although the sales guy claims they buy a lot from Lexus auctions. They only had one new RX330.
We went straight from the Lexus dealer to the Nissan dealer to drive a Murano. We had been very impressed when we drove one a month ago. Wasn't quite so impressive after driving the Lexus. Still a nice vehicle with very catchy styling but the deep dash and thick rear piller didn't go over big. Also, the ride didn't compare well to the Lexus (we drove the same route.) Luckily (for my wallet) my wife is content with her 1996 Explorer so we won't be doing anything soon.
My questions are:
1)Is it "normal" to hear the engine in an SUV?
2)Is the 330's engine quieter than the 300? (I suppose I could go back down to the dealership but thought I'd ask you all first.)
I was quite disappointed to be able to hear the engine "rumbling".
1-really used for commercial purposes, probably as a fleet vehicle (but how many RX300s are sitting at your local Hertz, and how would the mileage be so low if they were rented often?)
2-registered as a "truck" which automatically triggers a commercial flag on carfax (is this the case?)
3-registered through a person's private business but really driven as a private vehicles (perhaps to make the lease pmts tax-deductible).
Can anyone shed some light on this?
Ryan
Thanks
It's a medium gray and does not show dirt. And best of all looks fantastic. If it werent for the usual cracks, mine would be perfect.
PDS