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Lexus RX 300

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Comments

  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    inside the idle air bypass module.
  • sexilexi300sexilexi300 Member Posts: 7
    Yes, I saw a post discussing this already (might have been you) and checked it right away. Is the hose you describe not directly connected to the air cleaner?
  • mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    I think it is connected to the top. That's why when you lift up on the top to check the filter it pulls the hose off the metal tube below. I will double check when my wife comes home with the car tonight.
  • kmc4kmc4 Member Posts: 1
    My RX is at the dealer now waiting to be picked up. I took it in to check on the following 4 issues and the dealer is blowing them all off...

    1) Q. When the key is in the ignition but not engaged there is a sizzling sound under the hood that is clearly heard on the driver side. A. They tell me it is a perfectly normal sound made by a solenoid blah, blah, blah and that most owners don't just stick the key in so they don't hear it. It literally sounds like something is frying under there. I see nothing posted here about this, has anyone else experienced it?

    2) Q. Window washer fluid is leaking (I have the proof on the floor of my garage and on the two towels I placed there to collect it). A. Maintenance filled the reservoir and found no leaks anywhere in the line. WZUP with that, it's obviously leaking.

    3) Q. Gas mileage seems to have decreased. A. They have no test for mileage...

    4) Black streaks on my rims. A. Brake dust, but nothing wrong with the brakes.

    I did find postings on this forum re Gas mileage and brake dust, but no answers (maybe you can give me a posting number on the answer to the mileage question) re brake dust, all I could find is how to remove it. Is the accumulation of brake dust just normal then?

    I just can't imagine that all of this is "normal" and that I just have to live with it. Since I have a somewhat negative view of car dealers and mechanics, my instincts tell me that they're just blowing me off (until warranty expires maybe???). I want to be able to give them an informed response rather than just accepting what they tell me.

    Thanks, in advance, for your input.
  • mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    The hose is connected to the back of the air filter housing top. It makes a 90 degree turn directly under the brake fluid container and connects to a metal tube below. When the top of the air filter housing is opened, the hose can easily get disconnected from the metal tube which causes a check engine light. Don't confuse this with the hose connected to the side of the brake fluid container which also connects to a metal tube below.
  • mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    1) The noise you describe when the key is inserted is normal.

    2) This is not normal and may take some investagation by you before returning to the dealer. At what point of the car is it dripping from to the garage floor, how fast/slow, does it only leak when used or will it leak when just sitting, I would fill it to the fill line and monitor.

    3) This is a tough one. What does "seems" to have decreased mean. You have a computer that displays MPG. Did it decrease or not? What type of driving do you do and what is your mpg. Do you have FWD or AWD? You may want to do a search and see what type of mileage others are getting or at least post yours. Mine is 19.7 for AWD on 80% rural country roads, 10% city, 10% highway.

    4) The black streaks are most likely brake dust. The RX stock pads are quite good and have very little dusting but you do have to clean the wheels once in a while. Did you get the RX used? Did someone before you possibly do a brake job and use aftermarket pads that dust a little more? As long as the dealer checked the brakes I wouldn't worry about it. Just clean the wheels a little more often.
  • sexilexi300sexilexi300 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks Mikey00,
    The hose is indeed connected properly. If anyone has advice before I begin diagnosing the A/F sensor, MAF, and VSC codes let me know. I will post my findings otherwise.
  • sexilexi300sexilexi300 Member Posts: 7
    1) Normal noise. Mine is a kind of hum, and I can describe the active circuit from wiring diagrams if you would like.
    2) A leak is a leak. It might be so slow they could not see it.
    3) I get 21.9 with AMZOIL 10/30, and 24.7 with the new AMZOIL 0/30, 2WD with a little over 100k miles. I have some exotic 20" rims that add rotational wieght, but I adjust my mileage for the 5.49% tire circumference increase. I also drive like a little old lady, gentle enough that I am still on my original brake pads.
    4) When I replace my brake pads, I will look for some ceramic pads which eliminate this problem.
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    Duh, first I've heard of this synthetic product.

    My 99RX 2WD has 90K+ miles, can I safely switch to Amzoil at this late date?
    Can oil now be changed at 25K intervals rather than the 5K I've been diligent about since the vehicle was new?
    Should I stick with 5W30 Amzoil which is the grade of conventional oil recommended by Lexus that I've been using all along? Don't see anything about "0/30" grade on their website.
    Any additional comments, suggestions or URLs for more info?

    Many thanks,
    Pete :confuse:
  • mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    1) My 2000 RX had the hum and my 2001 RX has the same hum and I did read posts by others who also have the hum so I assume it is normal.
    2) ?
    3) Your mpg sounds very good to me in comparision with others. When you say you have oversize tires and are compensating for the larger size in your mpg calculations, I can see why the dealer would not even want to be involved in that conversation. It's just not their thing. It's more like no check engine light, no problem.
    4) I always viewed the stock pads as good long lasting low dusting pads. Ceramics should help some with the dusting.
  • mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    I think you really meant this question for sexilexi300. I made not mention of Amzoil. All I can tell you is I have read many negative comments about it and using longer drain intervals and using other than recommended weights. Do a search here and/or other RX300 forums using the correct spelling "amsoil".
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check out Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2 too.

    Steve, Host
  • mnfmnf Member Posts: 405
    FYI just in case if anyone else runs across a rear hatch gas strut issue on there RX300 after a long search I found a site that you send them in and he re builds them and sends them back. $70.00 a pair not bad since the dealer wanted $185.00 each. You may want to do a inspection where they fail is at the little rubber ring it wears out and then the gas leaks out. He carry's some on hand but can do all makes and models...

    Matt

    www.strutwise.com
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    Many thanks for that link, I think I'll stick with Lexus' lubricant recommendations! Please see if you can help me out on one other issue:

    Every time my browser (Mozilla Firefox 1.0.7) opens edmunds.com I get this dialog box:

    Security Error: Domain Name Mismatch [X]

    You have attempted to establish a connection with
    "www.edmunds.com". However, the security certificate presented
    belongs to "secure.edmunds.com". It is possible, though unlikely,
    that someone may be trying to intercept your communication with
    this web site.

    If you suspect the certificate shown does not belong to
    "www.edmunds.com", please cancel the connection and notify the
    site administrator.

    I have sent a screen print of the above to help@edmunds.com with a copy to edmunds@mailca.custhelp.com at least five times, Oct. 3rd, Sept. 10th, Aug. 19th, July 25th and July 14th.

    Unfortunately, the only reply received was from "Chris, Edmunds.com Quality Assurance" back on July 15th suggesting I clear cache and cookies and try a different browser (BTW that didn't work and told them so).

    All my subsequent eMails have apparently been ignored, can you please intervene on my behalf? I know this is not the proper place for this complaint but I don't know where else to turn. Perhaps you can get your techies to address this issue in a timely manner. O/S in Win98SE if that makes any difference.

    Pete :mad:
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Hmm, that bug popped up last July for a few people (Sylvia, "Forums Software! Your Questions Answered..." #2042, 14 Jul 2005 10:29 am) and I thought it was mostly swatted, although someone had the issue back on September 1st.

    Please try this:

    Log out from Edmunds.
    Clear your cookies and cache.
    Then log back in without clicking the Auto Login option and see what happens.

    You can ask over in the above Forum Software discussion if that didn't fix it; the problem relates to something involving an outside vendor and I know it's frustrated some of the techs.

    Here's yet another link for you. :)

    Synthetic motor oil

    Steve, Host
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    Thanks for the suggestion, unfortunately that didn't work; still getting the same Security Error: Domain Name Mismatch message!

    I'll try as you suggested.

    Pete :sick:
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Guess you'll just have to buy a whole new computer, LOL.

    On the bright side, there may be 8 speeds in your future!

    Steve, Host
  • marg2265marg2265 Member Posts: 9
    Hi all,

    I am looking at buying a 2000 RX300 from a family member. It has been serviced regularly, and has appx 75000 miles. Looks good, rides well. The last service was a week ago, and I noticed the paperwork from the dealer says it will need a new timing belt soon. Can anyone tell me what this may cost me?

    I am a little slow when it comes to cars, and want something that isn't going to fall apart on me. I love this car, and like the terms of buying from a family member. They loved the car, their new one is a 2005 RX330. Any other things I should be looking for or asking?

    Thanks!
    Marg
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    Timing belt should be replaced at 90K, about $400.00 at a Lexus dealer, somewhat less at a Toyota shop. You may wish to consider having the water pump replaced at the same time, add about $150.00 if done with the timing belt. The Edmunds Maintenance Guide can tell you the factory recommended service and cost at various intervals:
    Edmunds Maintenance Guide

    Pete :)
  • asp99rxasp99rx Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever get an answer or figure out how to get the door panel off? I ran into the same problem today. Not finding much on the net.

    Regards,
    Andy
  • mikeytmikeyt Member Posts: 22
    i had the same trouble when changing speakers, you must take off the wood switch panels after removing all screws and plastic pins, pry the top of the wood panel with a plastic pry tool so not to damage wood, it is held in by a plastic coated metal clip, ater removing and unplugging wires the screw ur looking for is there, remove and your in.
  • uop517uop517 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,

    For those of you in the SF Bay Area (I'm in the East Bay/Walnut Creek), where do you take your cars for service? Our 99 RX 300 AWD is due for 60K service. Walnut Creek Toyota is quoting me $613 and Concord Lexus is $629.

    Thanks so much!
  • sk8surfrsk8surfr Member Posts: 14
    The drivers door will not lock or unlock with the remote or if you press the lock/unlock button inside the car. Only works if you manually move the lock or if you use the key in the door.

    What is this?
  • avery1avery1 Member Posts: 373
    I had an $1100 service on my RX at Concord Toyota (was going to be $1500 at Lexus) and Florin Road Toyota in Sacramento quoted me $575.
  • mikeytmikeyt Member Posts: 22
    sounds like a bad switch in the driver door , if the remote works on all other doors and passenger door lock works then remove the master switch on the driver side and clean out the door switch or button , possibly dirty , spill anythig? If that doesn't do it then you need to replace the switch.
  • sk8surfrsk8surfr Member Posts: 14
    when you say switch.. you mean like the actual switch? like i said before.. it "does" work when you use the key in the door or you just flip it over with your finger, but "does not" work with the key or the button in the car

    do the cars have hydralic pump things that lock/unlock each switch? i have an audi and ive talked to some people that have had this issue and i think they said something like that.

    anymore suggestions are appreciated... guess ill take the door apart this weekend and see what i can find. easy enough to remove door panel? any tips/tricks to know in advance?
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    From 1999 RX300 Repair Manual, page BE-100:

    16. Driver's Door:
    INSPECT DOOR LOCK MOTOR OPERATION
    (a) Connect the positive (+) lead from the battery to terminal 1 and the negative (-) lead to terminal 2, and check that the door lock link moves to the UNLOCK position.
    (b) Reverse the polarity and check that the door lock link moves to the LOCK position.
    If operation is not as specified, replace the door lock assembly.

    Hope this helps.

    Pete
    :)
  • kthankthan Member Posts: 30
    I got check light on in my 00 RX300 (currently only 21000 miles) and ran a computer scan at Auto Zone today.
    The error code is P0171..System too lean (Bank 1). It looks like Oxygen sensor goes bad/dirty (couple of members reported the light turned off after just cleaning the sensor, not replacing it). Would this diagnosis pretty accurate? Or could it mean there is something other than O2 sensor wrong?

    I did not find any suspicious symptoms but I recently had occasional knocking sounds. I thought this sound because we used 87 gas for couple of tanks. It is not constant knocking (just on and off for about 3-5 minutes). Today I made the tank almost empty and then refuel with 89. With 5 mile driving, the knocking sound was gone. I don't know if the knocking sound is related to this issue or not.

    If it is a problem of Oxygen sensor, I would be surprised because the current mileage is only 21000. I found some other posts but they are all over 60-70K miles.

    Also, please advise me how to handle/fix the issue (how much would be the parts and labor?). My car is already out of warranty, but I found some (oxygen sensor) cases that the dealer services fixed it for free (as "good will gesture") because of its early failure. I am wondering if I can ask them about my car.

    Another concern: if the oxgen sensor goes bad, is there any possibility that the other related parts (like other 02 sensors) go bad in near future (Or, the failure of a (emission related) part has nothing to do with the continous problem of the other related part)?

    I did not purchase a extended warranty yet because the current mileage (21000) of my car is so low. But, I started to be very concerned about reliability of my car due to the check light problem.
  • mnfmnf Member Posts: 405
    Type in SENSOR you will get a lists of posts that may help. It may be the mass air flow meter that is very easy to fix it was on our 2000 RX 30. You may want to take it to a Toyota dealer (cheaper) have them run the code and find out cost is about $50.00.... Good Luck.... Matt
  • gambiamangambiaman Member Posts: 131
    I have a 01 RX 300 that has an intermittent passenger window. When I let the window down and it may or may not go back up. I have tried both driver and passenger window buttons when this problem occurs and neither works. One afternoon I let it down and could not get it up until the next day despite may attempts. I took it to the dealer and they could not get it to malfunction. While on the way to the dealer I got it to fail once (first try) but then after several attempts it went up. I am afraid to use it for fear it will fail down when it is getting ready to rain or we are heading for a public place to park.
    Any suggestions?
    Thanks
    Em
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    Hi Pete,
    Great info you provided here. I just notice my 00 RX300 has the same problem: driver side switch does not work electronically. It only works with key inserted into door, or flip the inside lock with finger.

    My question is, how to remove the door lock assembly? My first guess is to pry the whole thing out, along the assembly edge. Is there anything else involved, such as hidden screws to be removed first?

    Thanks
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    from 1999 Lexus RX300 Repair Manual, vol. 2, pg. B0-15:

    14. REMOVE DOOR LOCK
    (a) Disconnect the 2 links from the outside handle and key cylinder.
    (b) Remove the 4 torx screws and door lock.
    (c) Disconnect the 2 connectors.
    HINT:
    Remove the door lock through the service hole.
    (d) Remove the 2 screws and door lock cover from the door lock.

    Hope this helps.

    Pete :)
  • kwhkwh Member Posts: 68
    Anybody have any thoughts on this one -
    CEL came on = 2000 RX300 with 79,000 miles

    I noticed the RPMs were higher than usual, around 3300 at 60 mph, normally around 2200. It was like the car would not go into overdrive. I punched the button on the stick to turn off the overdrive and nothing happened, no "bump" down like it normally would do if you hit the the overdrive off switch. Also if I accelerate hard from a stoplight the gears are bumping a bit - you usually can't even tell it is shiting gears it has been so smooth through the years. If I do a very slow accelaeration up to 60 the car seems to find the right gear and the RPMs are around 22-2300.

    Anybody got any ideas. I can't get the car checked at the Toyota place until Thursday AM. I hope (really hope) that this is some kind of computer or electronic problem and not the transmission going bad. Anyone got any suggestions for what I should have checked. On the few problems I have had in the past people on this board were right on the money with what turned out too be wrong. THANKS.
  • mikeytmikeyt Member Posts: 22
    what i mean is the driver side door lock/unlock switch or button.When you press the button do any of the other doors open and close,if none open then the switch your pressing to lock and unlock is bad,if the other doors open and only the driver side does not then the problem is in the door mechanism, also does the pass side door lock switch work,if so then hydraulics are fine.
  • mikeytmikeyt Member Posts: 22
    autozone checks code from cel for nothing,if none around you maybe other co.'s do the same ,call 1st.
  • mikeytmikeyt Member Posts: 22
    i dont think the problem is in the key mechanism, you said if you use the key or flip switch manually it works, if so then yes it is an electronic problem but i believe it is in the master switch plate on the driver door. removing the master switch plate is not that difficult, just be careful when prying up the top half 1st that you pry from the retaining clip and not the actual wood plate, once you get it up the rest is easy
  • mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    The trans won't go into overdrive because the CEL is on. This is normal and not the cause of the CEL. The CEL could be a number of things. Is the gas cap loose? Did someone recently check the air filter and knock off the hose behind it (common problem)? Why not pull the EFI fuse or disconnect the battery for a few minutes to clear the code and see if it returns.
  • keen_23keen_23 Member Posts: 2
    Hi
    I have a 2001 RX300 but just completed 31K miles
    Went to the dealer (Ray Catenain NJ ) for the scheduled maint always and this time he recommended the 30K mile scheduled maint. Came to a whopping $780.
    On top of that they say that the Heat Mass air transfer device which checks exhaust gases to figure out how efficient the engine is running is kaput and wants another $880 just for that .
    Is this normal? I have never owned any car which cost so much to maintain within the first 302K Miles
    Since the Car is already 4 1/2 yrs old its is out of the 3 yr warranty period.
    Can I appeal to the lexus gods to get me a replacement on the thingamagig in the exhaust? If so to whom should I direct my entreatments?
    Besides when I complained on the inordinately high Regular maint price I did not get a Service Survey Response form which is normally thrust at me.
  • avery1avery1 Member Posts: 373
    I think that in some states the emission warranty extends longer than the regular warranty. Sounds like this device may be a part of the emission system. Also, check with a Toyota dealer or just complain and see if they make a deal. When my car was out of warranty and I made a stink they agreed to pay for the part if I paid for the labor. For future services look at you owner's manual and get a quote on only the work suggested in the manual. They dealer always adds services not in the manual. Get a quote from Toyota for these services also. Check several Toyota dealers. Around here they differ in price and extras like loaner cars.
  • erik_herik_h Member Posts: 77
    I have a issue with my '99. Sometimes I will hit the remote and the doors will not unlock. I can either use the key to get in or hit the panic button then the remote unlock will work. It does this once in a while and then its fine.
  • avery1avery1 Member Posts: 373
    I have this happen also. I was told this was probably the result of a security feature. The remote unlock feature is, so I have been told, disabled after some number of attempts are made to remotely unlock the doors with an inaccurate code. This is to prevent people from gaining access with programmable devices trying different codes to get into your car. However, the down side is that when you are parked near another Lexus or maybe Toyota and someone uses their remote your car thinks someone is trying to get into your car and shuts down.
  • joanziejoanzie Member Posts: 51
    A friend of mine just bought a Lexus this year, SUV and told me there is a decal that the Lexus dealer can put on your headlamps that says they are registered and can not be sold which is supposed to prevent someone from stealing them. He says it is free and I should ask my dealer. Anyone ever heard of this?
  • mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    They are called DataDots. DataDots do not make your HIDs unusable and do very little to prevent theft of HIDs. A theif will have no problem making your DataDot HIDs work in his Honda Civic or selling them to one of his freinds to do the same. It is also reported that theives are just ripping out most anti theft clamps, bolts, etc when they go after the HIDs. Mercedes Benz reports fewer HID thefts due to increased protection from the bumper. DataDots are more effective as a total car theft deterrent where the DataDots are hidden all over the car. The thought being that a theif may remove most of them but will most likely miss some of them which may allow the car to be traced back to its owner.
    But hey, if the dealer will do it for free, every little bit helps when trying to prevent HID theft.
  • dick1dick1 Member Posts: 21
    Where is everybody?
  • erik_herik_h Member Posts: 77
    christmas shopping...
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Nah, that doesn't start for 20 days. ;)

    Did everyone move on to the 330?

    Steve, Host
  • jonathonhjonathonh Member Posts: 1
    Hello
    We just purchase a 2000 RX300. We are very happy with this vehicle so far. Although today when I went to fill up with gas the gas cap door would not stay shut. Is this a common problem? I am located in Michigan and it is only 15 degrees out. Is the locking mechanism just frozen? How can I fix this problem? Any help with this issue would be greatly appreciated.
    THANKS
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    Try lubing mechanism with a Teflon® aerosol lubricant like TRI-FLOW™.

    Pete :)
  • sexilexi300sexilexi300 Member Posts: 7
    For the record of anyone else who has this issue, replacement of the IAC valve fixed the problem. It is clear now how all these symptoms led to this conclusion, but I will not bore the reader unless asked.
  • sexilexi300sexilexi300 Member Posts: 7
    The '01 RX has a feature that allows operation of windows by inserting the key into the drivers soor and holding it in the unlock position for windows down, and holding the lock position for windows up. Try this method if the window is not operating via switches.

    Each door contains a separate computer, connnected through a CAN (car area network bus) to other doors, and the factory security system. If all three methods (driver switch, passenger switch, door cylinder switch) do not work, look closely at the module in the passenger door.
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