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Pete
Pete
I was debating between LTX and Cross Terrains. Seems like both tires have good reviews. Cross Terrains had better wear rating, 700 vs. 500 of the LTX. In the end, I choose LTX because it's cheaper.
sandman46, "Tires, tires, tires" #5596, 21 Jun 2006 9:47 am
It's "dry" air and may leak less. I wouldn't drive out of my way or pay anything to put it in my tires based on what I've read about it to date. The green valve caps are sort of cool.
But this other one...does anyone have a clue as to how I'd start to take the bottom part of the console apart to access the bulb? Thanks to all.
Solution for now - keep foot on gas after the engine turns over let the car warm up for 3-4 minutes. After a few tries the car moves but RPMs are very low. After running the car a few minutes on the road it is idleing perfect again. May go a week or so and run perfect - then crank it up one morning and engine dies.
The car is due for a 90,000 mile check. Any ideas of something I should get checked. Is everybody replacing timing belt at 90,000 or waiting until later?
Thanks for any help.
To those ends, we will be shutting down the general make/model discussions and work exclusively with specific issues. This requires us to populate the make/model subsections with relevant, interesting and timely topics. Rather than having the hosts simply create boilerplate topics for each make/model, we feel that you, the owner, the make/model enthusiast and the prospective buyer can best judge what those topics should be.
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You can use the "search" function and find a wealth of tips from prior posts about these. Maybe even check the (Highlander forums for info on the 3 liter V6, too?) If you are handy at all, you can pull the MAF and clean it (and the air cleaner, etc.) and I believe the same is true with the "idle solenoid", however I don't have a shop manual.
Either should be easy to clean or replace once diagnosed.
Can you get the car running to get it to an "AutoZone" auto parts store to get the Check Engine error codes read? Or, perhaps trust a Toyota dealer, where the repairs would be a bit less expensive?
Please report back and let us know what you found out, and how it was fixed. If this doesn't help, perhaps someone else could share?
Lexus RX 300/330/350
The car did not have this vibration prior to the replacement of these two sensors. One year after purchase of car, when I took car in for an oil change, Lexus dealer told me that I had the oil gel problem and they repaired my car (I never noticed anything wrong with car!!!!!) The car has been in and out of the Lexus dealer repair shop since August 22, 2006 (I've had a loaner more than my own car since then). They have supposedly tried everything to correct the problem and now inform me that the Toyota rep was at the shop last week and said this vibration was normal for my year car with 75,000 miles........I feel I am being jerked around!!!!!! Sorry for the long message but I could probably write a book about this......Any advice would be appreciated. :mad:
In retrospect I'm not sure the 2001 was ever available without the towing option as it likely needed the extra cooling for the ATF.
There are two c-best options that you might want to have a dealer reset immediately. The A/C can be disabled indefinitely by turning it off manually and the A/C can be unlinked from automatically operating in defrost/defog/demist mode.
Who did the swap, warranty repairs might be a nightmare.
Thanks for any advice.
Ken
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2001-2002-2003-LEXUS-RX-300-RX300-CHIP-KEY_W0QQcm- dZViewItemQQcategoryZ40016QQihZ020QQitemZ300063448615QQrdZ1
Interesting thought there, maybe by 01 they realized the trans needed extra cooling even when just hauling the kids around town. The towing prep package w/trans cooler shows up on my original 01 window sticker as standard equipment.
A higher fixed capacity ATF pump would undoubtedly help solve the shift pattern problem but with a lot of extra ATF heating resulting.
Edmunds Maintenance Guide
Pete
Which is the direction of the airflow:
Up from the footwell (same direction as "up" on the filter frame)?
or
Down from the top of the dash?
Thanks,
Ken
Thanks.
Pete
Luckily it didn't go far. Thank God, I wasn't on the freeway. Anyway, it is now in a local toyota dealer. (Their service Dept is closed)
How serious is this ? Would it cost a lot to flush the system ? (local mechanics told me that it could be $500-$1000) Will it make any permanent damages to the car ?
I am kicking my butt for making such a stupid mistake. I would appreciate your input.
Thanks.
pennymb, "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" #2426, 2 Feb 2006 12:38 pm
Curious what you wound up doing about it?
Lexus RX 300 Transmission Problems
If you've had any tranny issues (Erik?) in the past or lately, please give us a report in there. Thanks.
Thanks,
Thanks for any help.
Thanks for any help.
There is also a well-known oil-gelling history if the intervals are long or heat builds up as it can, so it's a good idea to have frequent engine oil change intervals to help avoid a problem.
For 4X4 you can look under the middle of the car for a drive shaft leading from the front (engine area) down the middle tunnel to the rear (differential) and then side driveshafts to drive the rear wheels. If it's front wheel (2X4) drive, that stuff won't be there, but there will be a "G" as the third character in the VIN.
If your headlights are getting cloudy (likely due to being left out in the sun/weather), don't use anything abrasive on them. I've seen products specifically to help with this, but never had to use them. Perhaps plastic polish might help if it's on the outside. If they are fogging on the inside, it's because they've gotten cracked by an impact or the seal was otherwise breached, perhaps where the bulb was replaced. :confuse: