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Lexus RX 300

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Comments

  • Could be, but I'll continue the 25k changes. I want 200k from this SUV. It is 75% highway miles.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I suspect you'll not see much more than 100,000 miles absent a new transaxle. Something inside the transaxle is overheating and thereby burning the ATF.

    Lexus went to DBW on the RX330 specifically so they could give the transaxle clutches time ("extraordinary" time??)to fully and firmly SEAT before allowing the engine torque to begin rising due to foot pressure on the gas pedal.

    My suspecion is that Lexus overcame the problem of premature transaxle failures of the '99 RX series, up to the RX330, by increasing the ATF gear pump displacement. That resulted in an unexpected, unprepared for(***), level of extra heating of the ATF during prolonged cruising at higher engine RPMs.

    *** The ATF drain/refill recommended schedule for my '01 RX300 was infinity until the symptom of burned ATF started turning up and was only then revised to every 15,000 miles.
  • kurt10kurt10 Member Posts: 2
    It's an AWD
  • sam421sam421 Member Posts: 14
    My Lexus 2002 RX300 makes a traction type noise while driving. Frequently happens when going slow and then accelerating. Anyone? Thanks!
  • cc2718cc2718 Member Posts: 18
    Is it coming from the brake. I just put in a set of new front brake pads in mine 2002. It only has 43K and I noticed the front brake pads were almost out, specially the drive side inside. You can kind tell by look at the brake fluid level, if it is close to the low, it may be the time to take look at the brake. Let me know what causing the noise because I also got the same car.
  • sam421sam421 Member Posts: 14
    I just got new brakes done back in April this year. Could it be the tires?
  • cc2718cc2718 Member Posts: 18
    If it happens when accelerating, it's unlikely the tires, maybe something is loosing in the brake area.
  • kitana370kitana370 Member Posts: 6
    Hey Sherry...
    Did you ever get a repky, or found any items to clean interior and side panels of the RX330? Thanks:)

    Deneen :)
  • jim189jim189 Member Posts: 4
    2002 RX 300. Right beside the filter box air hose connection is a round connector. I notice that mine is covered with electrical tape! Also noticed that the electrical connector that comes out of the firewall with the MAF connector is disconnected and covered with tape! It looks like the taped connector shoud be hooked up to the taped-over connection beside the air hose on the air filter box?? I just bought the car used. Runs fine but the CEL has come on twice. What are the two taped connectors for? Should they be connected? Haven't taken it to a dealer yet. Wanted to hear what you have to say first.
  • jim189jim189 Member Posts: 4
    2002 RX 300. Right beside the filter box air hose connection is a round connector. I notice that mine is covered with electrical tape! Also noticed that the electrical connector that comes out of the firewall with the MAF connector is disconnected and covered with tape! It looks like the taped connector shoud be hooked up to the taped-over connection beside the air hose on the air filter box?? I just bought the car used. Runs fine but the CEL has come on twice. What are the two taped connectors for? Should they be connected? Haven't taken it to a dealer yet. Wanted to hear what you all have to say first.
  • sam421sam421 Member Posts: 14
    Hello all I resolved the problem (well the dealer did). I took it in yesterday (this is the 4th time for this problem). I bought the car June of last year and 3 months in I hear that noise. It feel so damn good not to hear or feel that noise! The dealer said it was a faulty rear speed sensor. Here is the info directly from the work invoice if it means anything to you:

    A. 896091 REAR SPEED SENSOR (ONE)
    115IELEX
    1 89545-48020 SENSOR, SPEED, RR RH

    B. CU STS TRACTION LIGHT
    989 SEE LINE A.
    115 ISP

    Fortunately, it was covered under my CPO 3-yr warranty. Somehow, at first they thought I didn't have the warranty (why I have no idea?) and were going to charge me "half-price" which came out to $640.00 with tax and all. I asked why it wasn't covered and at first they asked if I had an extended warranty. I said no I have a 3-yr CPO warranty. Then he said that all the work is considered "maintenance." I disagreed and said I do not have the money for these repairs. He said he would call me back. He never did and I just went there and got the invoice with all work complete at no charge. I guess it was my lucky day hahaha !!

    Moreover, if they did not fix it I was going to bring it to my mechanic and he said he would charge me half of the $640.00 for all the work. He is very good with Lexus vehicles and orders parts directly from the dealer i go to. I know this because I went with him to pick up my "Lexus" brakes and other stuff when I needed them done! My mechanic charged me $400.00 for the brakes work instead of the $750.00 the dealer wanted. What a rip-off the dealers are.

    Hopefully this helps others and I will definately be back to the board for updates and information. Thanks all and Happy Halloween!
  • bobfloydbobfloyd Member Posts: 32
    Using my remote I no longer hear an audible verification when my vehicle has locked. I do hear the sound when I unlock it. Any thoughts?
  • cc2718cc2718 Member Posts: 18
    Thanks for sharing the info. Should there be any warning light if ABS speed sensor fails? I'll keep that in mind.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    My mechanic charged me $400.00 for the brakes work instead of the $750.00 the dealer wanted. What a rip-off the dealers are.

    Was this all 4 wheels brakes replaced? Then it sounds good.

    If it was only the front brakes, I did get my nephews Lexus brakes done for about $200. Purchased the parts from PartsAmerica.com, took them to my mechanic who charged an hour of labor, when in reality he worked for less than half an hour. But I was willing to let that slide. That's it.
  • sam421sam421 Member Posts: 14
    No, it was only the front brakes but I wanted the exact parts and things directly from that Lexus dealer. I felt as though it was worth it because I got it done without the full labor charge. Thanks for the info though ... maybe I will go that route next time.
  • cc2718cc2718 Member Posts: 18
    Front brake pad set costs less than $100 if you buy from the Dealer. So $400 seems little high even if it includes the parts. Toyota/Lexus's brake is very very easy to work on. It should not take a trained person more than 30 minutes.
  • nate811nate811 Member Posts: 4
    I changed the battery in my '99 last night. This morning the instrument panel is blank and the screen is blank. Car starts fine. I'm not able to shift into gear either. Could this have been caused by an electrical shock? Any suggestions on what I could try to fix?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    You missed connecting the "accessary" wire to the battery..?

    Assuming there is such a thing...
  • avery1avery1 Member Posts: 373
    The warning light that indicates a rear bulb failure has come on. I believe I have checked all the rear lights-backup, regular, brake, license plate, turn, even the little lights on the side of the bumper. Nothing is out. So I assume it is a corroded connection or loose bulb. Does anyone know which bulbs this warning light monitors? And can anyone think of an easy way to solve this without checking and cleaning every bulb? Thanks in advance.
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    Also check the "high-mount" stop light bar at the top of the rear window if you haven't done so!

    Pete :)
  • avery1avery1 Member Posts: 373
    I feel like an idiot. That was it. Now how do I get into it? I don't see any screws on the cover. Thanks for the help.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    slide your fingers carefully and pull it off. It will come off. Use your force judiciously.
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    My experience is that you need to use a genuine Toyota bulb. I have found that the similar 921LL Sylvania lamp is subject to premature failure in this application.

    Pete :)
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    you need to use a genuine Toyota bulb

    as if Toyota makes the bulb themselves. Sylvania or GE will work just fine.
  • avery1avery1 Member Posts: 373
    Thanks everyone.
  • mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    Using a genuine Lexus/Toyota is not a bad suggestion. We all know that they don't actually make the bulb themselves. It is outsourced same as many of the parts on the car (brake pads, filters, and on and on). I used a aftermarket bulb and it did work ok but the failure indicator on the dash remained on. A Lexus bulb fixed that. Others have reported the same problem on the other Lexus discussion sites.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    Interesting. I just recently replaced the top-mount brake light with a GE light from Wal-mart. Works just fine.

    I am sure others must be using some boutique brand of bulbs that is causing a problem. GE/Sylvania/Osram set the standard in lighting across the world. I cannot believe that Lexus needs a special bulb. In fact, the owners manual also simply states the standard model # of the light bulb and no mention of using a "Lexus" only bulb.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    The (non-standard) bulbs labelled "LL" for long life use less electric current/power and will oftentimes trigger the bulb failure circuit.
  • mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    As you said Lexus does not really require a special bulb. But the high mounted brake light seems a little picky about the bulb you use. The bulb works, it is just the failure indicator that doesn't like some bulbs. My replacement that I had trouble with also came from Wal-Mart (can't remember the brand). I did read posts from other RX owners having the same problem. It is not necessary to get the bulb from Lexus but it is good to be aware of this issue and try another brand if the failure indicator stays lit.
    I don't think the previous poster was trying to insinuate there is a big bulb factory with the Lexus/Toyota sign on top. But if you buy the bulb at a Lexus/Toyota online discounter or parts counter you most likely will not encounter the problem.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    The (non-standard) bulbs labelled "LL" for long life use less electric current/power and will oftentimes trigger the bulb failure circuit.

    Now this I understand. Thanks!!!!

    I did not use the "LL" bulbs. I just picked the regular one.
  • charlieavracharlieavra Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering if anyone could tell me where I could find a 3rd brake light that lights up "LEXUS" I was behind a pathfinder the other day and when they stepped on the brakes the 3rd light lit up "Pathfinder" it looked really sharp. I want get one for my Lexus truck but I'm not sure what it would be called or where to find it. I checked a few auto sites but I came up with nothing.....
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Ebay.com....

    Has replaced the Sears/Roebuck catalog for product browsing.

    But not in the outhouse.
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    There doesn't seem to be much market for aftermarket RX parts generally, other than typical appearance items and baubles (sp?), unlike other makes and/or truck-based SUVs.

    I'm still looking for a source for larger/stronger sway bars to improve the sloppy body lean and handling. The stock ones allow way too much roll/sway, and my major peeve about this car, well above anything else. The handling could have been much better, with little sacrifice in ride or weight.

    I've found lowering kits, but that's not what I'm looking for. Wider/better tires helped a lot (sacrificing some of the soft ride), but clearly the wimpy sway bars could have been stronger, but I haven't found a manufacturer that offers them for the RX.

    Anyone know of a source?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Did you check the laundry list at SEMA?
  • amy1272houamy1272hou Member Posts: 2
    HELP! I have a '99 RX that had the sludge problem and it blew the motor! Now we have over $8000.00 in repair estimate and we never received ONE letter!
    Where can I find this information? I've just called Lexus and I want this information if.. and when... they call me back.

    Thanks for any help you can give me! Happy Holidays!
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    I am glad I could help....

    http://www.oilgelsettlement.com/

    http://www.oilgelsettlement.com/detailed_notice.pdf

    Affected models:

    MAKE MODEL MODEL YEAR
    Toyota Camry 4cyl. 1997-2001
    Toyota Camry 6 cyl 1997-2002
    Toyota Solara 4 cyl. 1999-2001
    Toyota Solara 6 cyl. 1999-2002
    Toyota Sienna 6 cyl. 1998-2002
    Toyota Avalon 6 cyl. 1997-2002
    Toyota Celica 4 cyl. 1997-1999
    Toyota Highlander 6 cyl. 2001-2002
    Lexus ES300 1997-2002
    Lexus RX300 1999-2002
  • chip99chip99 Member Posts: 2
    Help please! My daughter is driving in FL for Christmas in the RX. There "Check Engine" light is on. They drove for 2.5 hours and the transmission stopped propelling the vehicle. The fluid is normal. They wait for 1/2 an hour and the trans will propel them for 10 minutes. GOT ANY Ideas?

    Thanks
  • Sorry for your trouble with the RX. I am no car expert, but sounds like overheating. Don't know if a certain part is to blame that can be replaced. I would leave it at a dealership and rent a car. That way she is not stuck in a bad place. I have a 2002 and change the fluid every 25k. I started doing this after the first fluid change when my mechanic said the fluid was burnt and very dirty. I blame the high RPM's the engine runs at. Makes the fluid too hot in my opinion. I say that because at 70MPH the tack shows 3K. On my Windstar it is 2200 at 70MPH. If you don't need a new transmission, I would at least change the fluid and keep doing it every 25K at least. If mostly city maybe more. If she is only 3 hours away you may want to go get her.

    Good luck to your daughter,

    Ken
  • chip99chip99 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Ken... The RX is on it's way via car trailer to Tampa. The daughter has a rental car is on her way. We did a tranny fluid refill today and that may have helped, but not enough to resolve the problem. I agree - overheating - but why? I found another post on another site that indicated that this is a Lexus common problem and the resolution is a new or rebuilt tranny. Thanks.

    Happy Holidays
  • Glad it worked out from a safety perspective. Don't know why it has to overheat or run at so high an RPM. Not a car tech. I have 98K on mine and it still seems brand new. I hope the 25K xmission fluid changes keep it going. Great SUV. Do the same on all my cars now. Insurance I hope. Happy Holidays!

    Ken
  • mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    The engine has a water temp gauge and the trans has a A/T fluid temp light. If neither of these indicate a overheat, I doubt very much that you are overheating. There are many reasons for the check engine light to come on. Some as simple as a gas cap not on tight and some more complex such as a sensor failure. You really need to get a code reader plugged into the car to determine the cause. Some engine codes prevent the trans from shifting into overdrive as a safety measure and are often mistakenly interrupted as a transmission problem. I would get the code read and fix the problem. Don't just shotgun it with things like changing the trans fluid. You may be doing more harm than good if you are not using Toyota Type T-IV trans fluid.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    My '01 AWD RX300 most definitely has an ATF overtemp sensor and indicator light. But yet while I have NEVER noted the light being on ATF was clearly burned due to overheating at only 40,000 miles.

    My continuing suspicion is that in the process of making the Camry/ES transaxle more robust for fitting to the HEAVIER RX series the engineers overlooked or underestimated the need for increasing the ATF pumping capacity.

    Or yet another possibily is that they saw the need but felt, correctly, that increased pump capacity would mean more, too much more, heat to somehow despose of easily. So they overcame the problem, or so they thought, by eliminating a few shift pattern/schedules that required an inordinant level of pressure even with the engine idling, at idle.

    But they forgot to "retrain" the owner/drivers to not "ask" for quick acceleration downshifts subsequent to brief full lift-throttle events.

    So then the '99 RX300 transaxles started failing prematurely.

    Oops, really do need more ATF pumping capacity, lets' bore out the gear type ATF pump. Take care of the extra heat buildup by including the "optional" towing package with every RX shipped.

    Oops, again.

    The extra heat load is localized to the larger, higher capacity ATF pump and so the ATF still overheats in the '01 to '03 Rx models.

    The '04 and later RXes use DBW, e-throttle, to ENFORCE 1-2 second acceleration delay/hesitation requiring a quick downshift subsequent to brief full lift-throttle event.
  • Yeah,

    That's what I was trying to say in my earlier post. LOL.

    Ken
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  • jmdndjmdnd Member Posts: 8
    My Rx300, 2000, has over the years occasionally made a weird clicking sound after the engine is turned off. Last experience occurred when I came out of Lowes after two hours of shopping and found it making a variation of the sound. The battery was dead...it was jumped off and I got a new battery right away. Since then the clock resets almost every time it is cranked. Per information from messages on this site...I had the cables checked, where I got the battery. They removed, replaced the battery and cleaned the cables but the problem continues. They said that it is not their problem. I have not noticed the sound again and I haven't had any problems starting the car. In one post they mentioned that the fuses might be the problem. Do you have any idea where the problem might be? If it is in the fuse system...how can I fix it myself ( I know nothing, but need to learn!)?
  • mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    The clicking sound made when trying to start a car with a battery without enough juice to turn over the engine is a common sound. It comes from the starter/solenoid. I doubt if it is related to the clicking you hear after the key is turned off. Could it possibility be metal contraction/expansion as the engine cools after it is shut off?
    If you never had clock reset problems before and as soon as they changed the battery clock reset problems began, the problem is most likely the new battery or battery connections. There are some other long shot possibilities like starter drawing too much current, electronic problem, etc., but I would first focus on the most likely. You said they already cleaned the battery connections. No one likes to believe that a new battery could be the problem but I would look here first. Do you have another car that you could swap batteries with for a test? Even if it's not a good fit, just start the car a few times to see if the clock resets. Or even just hook up jumper cables and start the RX a few times. I bet the clock reset problems are gone. If they are get a new battery. I don't know who put in the battery and how much hassle it is to deal with them but you may want to pick up a new battery at Costco for less than $50 and be done with it. Wal-Mart is another good source
    .
  • jmdndjmdnd Member Posts: 8
    Thanks Mikey00,
    I have been back to Sams..where I got the new battery...but I will go back with your email to try again. They said they tested the battery and cleaned everything.
    The weird clicking occurred after the car had been turned off for a couple of hours and should have had time to cool off. The battery was dead then. It jumped off fine. The clock reset occurred after the new battery was installed.
    From the beginning I have heard the clicking on cool down....but this was different. I'll pursue as you advised!
    JMDND
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    Does the clock reset everytime you start the car?
  • mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    I have seen this clock reset issue many times on the various RX discussion sites and can't recall one instance where the battery hasn't fixed the problem (mine included). Usually the car is still starting fine and some have even reported the battery load tested fine. It seems the battery is usually somewhere around 5 years old, so you change it anyway and the clock reset is solved. I think the clock is a little sensitve and is the first sign of a failing battery. Your situation is a little different in that the clock didn't reset until the new battery was installed. If they are willing to work with you on this great. Could it be that the particular model battery used allows the voltage to drop enough to cause the clock reset during cranking? I'm grabbing at straws here. Check to see if the clock is reset when the key is first turned on or does it occuur during cranking. Goood luck and keep us informed.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    Could it be that the particular model battery used allows the voltage to drop enough to cause the clock reset during cranking?

    Just where I was guiding the discussion to.
    with a new battery there appears to be 2 possibilities why the clock resets

    1. Bad connections
    2. Not enough cold crank volts.
  • jmdndjmdnd Member Posts: 8
    Mikey00 and Chikoo,
    Thanks for your responses!
    The reset doesn’t occur at each cranking, but does more often than not. Sometimes the clock does not reset after the car has been sitting overnight, but then again it might when only sitting for only a few minutes during the day.
    I did try turning the key to Alt before cranking and the clock was not reset…then when completing the start…it did reset.
    I may take the car to Sears or Wal-Mart and ask them to check the battery (We have no Costco). What you said about battery load and voltage dropping (new terminology for me) will help me talk to the guys at Sam’s again (That's where I bought the questionable battery)….especially if a competitive store finds a problem.
    I did forget to mention that the engine light is on most but not all the time… that has happened occasionally over the years…this time they couldn’t find a “code” to explain it. One independent but very good car guy said that it might relate to the fuses, but wasn’t Lexus trained and wouldn’t go there. Could a faulty fuse be the problem….and which fuse where??????
    I appreciate your help…Even if I wind up having to take the car to the dealership…I should be knowledgeable enough not to be taken advantage of. The dealer told me that it might take hours to find the problem; that’s why I’m taking advantage of your experience…Ain’t the internet great!
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