Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Thanks for your replies.
As far as your check engine light goes, I doubt it is related to the clock issue. I have never heard of a CEL not producing a readable code. I would disconnnect the negative battery connection for a few minutes. This will reset all codes and turn the light off. If it comes back on get the code read. Most AutoZone stores will read it for free.
For a battery test, go to Autozone and let them test it free for you.
By the way, do you have the brand/model# of the battery that is on the RX right now?
If that fuse is blown the clock will reset and the memory will not be retained with the ignition key not in the acc position.
Thanks
Its been reliable and is a 99 model.
If it were my clock reset issue I would first verify battery connections and then move on to battery. Unless you have other issues like previous poster with dome light out. If so it might be worth resolving this issue first.
When the driver's door is open, if I lock the door by pressing the door lock button on the door panel, sit in, close the door, insert the key and turn it to start the engine or just turn it to the notch before start, the door will unlock.
I typically close the door then lock them. I happened to notice the above, and every time it does that.
Thanks.
Perhaps a vehicle speed (not engine speed) related hum could be one or more tires or perhaps a bad bearing? Make sure it's not the tranny (doesn't sound like it). When was the last time you had the tranny serviced?
I have Michelin Cross Terrain tires, which are an excellent all-around tire. But they wear fast, and when they get a little worn, they start "humming" a little more than I'd like at vehicle (not engine) speed. The sound is muted, but noise over bumps is more pronuouced than should be. Also, I run the pressure on these tires up around 40psi for better handling, economy, etc. which makes the noise more pronounced, but still within a tolerable range. I wish I could find a sportier handling tire in my size (255 65H r16, I have spacers on the rear and want to avoid changing the wheels). My major gripe with the RX300 is the benign and boring handling.
Also, timing belt has not yet been changed yet. What do you think a realistic window, mileage-wise, would be. Someone told me 100,000 would be fine. I don't push this car at all. Any wisdom would be appreciated. Also, again, I have some very fine swirling scratches on my windshield (I'm second owner) just on the passenger side. Any ideas for their removal?
Thanks
Thanks.
Head room, anyone modified the seat or managed to get more head room out of the seats, I'm almost up against the roof and going over bumps at speed, well, I hit the roof...
Thanks in advance for a great site.
Check this site. I got one here and installed it myself. Excellent quality and fast delivery. A little pricey but worth it. Jim
The technician figured that the car had failed an emissions inspection and the previous owner(or his friendly helper) inserted the resistor to "fool the computer into thinking that the purge valve was working" to pass inspection. BUT when he took off all the tape, removed the resistor and connected the purge valve connections properly, his computer showed that it is working as it should. The "check engine light did NOT come back on.
My question is, Other than to (illegally) disable the emissions control system(which is working fine), why would someone have inserted this resistor ??? I heard something about similar things being tried to increase engine performance??
My understanding is, thes bulbs work as a stop/tail light combo. Stop lights are working fine. Is it possible that tail lights are burn out while stop lights are still working ? I cannot imagine that all four bulbs go bad at the same time. Could it be a fuse ?
Please help. My wife have to take my kid to her birthday party tomorrow morning.
Thanks,
steve
Can anyone recommend a good after market deflector solution? Prefer not to do a bra.
Thanks much,
JW
Thanks for your help...and for saving me $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.
JMD
Did they use another model or same model#?
Ken
Thanks again
Ken
Pete
Get the code checked by an independent party, even if it costs you $90. If the code is related to the accident, bill the party who hit you. Expect an argument about it. Solve (in my opinion) the biggest risk - that the damage is more than you thought, and potentially expensive or damaging to the life of the vehicle.
Then worry about $90 and your insurance company, and the right way to go forward.
Just another view. Good luck.
Ken
Thanks for your response. Well, this is what exactly happened. As I mentioned before, it was a very small dent(chip) on my rear bumper. Anycase, I Immediately notified my insurance. In the meanwhile, the auto-dealer whose truck hit my vehicle, promised to take care of it. Keeping in mind the extent of the damage, I agreed to it. Also I informed my insurance that it is being taken care of.
Two days back I got back my vehicle with the bumper as good as new (am really happy with the painting and refinishing). But when I enquired about the check engine light and VSC, they said that its no longer on. I had a doubt that those guys would have done a hard stop (reset). Today the lights came back on. Am planning to take the vehicle tomorrow to my friend who is an auto mechanic dealing with imported cars who can read out the codes for me. Based on that, I can decide my further course of actions. BTW my vehicle is under extended warranty if that will help in anyway. Not sure whether the O2 sensors are covered. Will keep you all informed. And yeh, sorry for the long post. Just wanted to explain in detail. Can post a image of the dent if you want. Thanks
Sounds like you just need to make sure the lights aren't accident related. It's possible they are.
Ken
jiamin, "Lexus RX 300" #8107, 22 Mar 2004 7:36 am
Ken
My 2002 has 102K and never had a single problem. Runs like day one.
Ken
Good Luck,
Ken
It seems as though most of the posts relating to transmission issue specify model years 1999 to 2001. Any help would be appreciated.
22,000 miles is lot less for a 2002 model which raises the question of validity. Am sure you will check the CarFAX report before going to the next level. Since you say you are buying it from someone you know, am sure there are no strings attached. All the best.
There were also complaints for some of the 1st gen RX 300 model years about soft/delayed shifting, as well as other issues mostly addressed under warrantee. But IIRC most of the durability (lack of) issues plagued mostly some models '99-'02, many of which had the transmissions replaced either under warrantee, goodwill warrantee, or by the customer.
You can "search" both RX300 Transmission and this forum for abundant postings offering advice to folks looking to buy as well as folks with complaints from those who experienced failures not covered by the original or "goodwill" warrantee.
If it were me, I'd read the other posts. Then I'd test drive the car, starting with it completely cool. After a brief warm-up, drive it really hard for an extended ride, accelerating hard, experiencing enthusiastic up-shifts and kick-downs, then pull on to a quiet street (windows down) and drive it really easy, light throttle, accelerating moderately from complete as well as "rolling" stops at progressively higher speeds to perceive how each shift feels under varying conditions.
Immediately after your extended test drive while the engine is still idling in Park with the Pbrake on, in a safe place, open the hood, check around to make everything is clean and safe, and pull the trans dipstick. I think it's on the right side of the engine between the engine and battery, and with adequate lighting, is very accessible. Smell the fluid on the dipstick. It should just smell like a manufactured petroleum product. Any burned smell? Wipe it on to a white paper towel. Is it a red color, or is it closer to brown? Has the engine bay just been cleaned for the car to appear more marketable? Or, has it simply been maintained "clean"? Are there any gooey leaks or funny sounds?
Burned or brownish fluid could indicate wear, and if really burned or brown, a lot of wear and maybe some tear. Perfectly red is not terribly likely unless the transmission is a modern unit (unlikely to have shifting problems), or the transmission was serviced well. Erratic shifting may show either the funny software used which varied from model year and 4/2wd models is not to your liking, or a mechanical problem.
Models without transmission problems or after the transmission was replaced (especially with NEW factory Lexus trannys) with the more modern design tend to be pretty reliable cars with few issues. A good friend of mine has a 2000 4WD with well in excess of 150,000 miles (last time I checked) on the original transmission, with no problems at all. Fluid changes...
Test it out, and buy it if it's a good one. I was fortunate, Lexus recognized the weakness in my early '99 2WD and replaced my transmission in '04 under warrantee. I got lucky (there were new ones in inventory apparently from the Kyushu factory, and the rebuilt ones tested had shifting problems) with a new upgraded factory transmission in '04, which shifts enthusiastically and precisely. Then because I'm looking for extra durability, I added additional transmission cooling, :shades: but that's another story.
Transmission fluid replaced every 25k per my mechanics recommendation. It is very dirty by that time. STRONGLY recommend the 25k interval. They run hot. Also do synthetic oil changes every 4-5k. Oil is still light colored in engine after that time period.
Good Luck,
Ken