Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Lexus RX 300

1177178179180182

Comments

  • jgreenojgreeno Member Posts: 1
    My Rx300 is doing same, misfire, trans shifting problems when VSC and Check engine light is on only. If the lights go off then everything is fine... Seems like a electrical or wiring problem. Anybody find the solution??
  • ktcktc Member Posts: 30
    My wife's 2001 RX300 recently also have the VCS and CEL lights on but still running fine, so I took a chance to guess that is the mass air flow sensor dirty (oxygen sensor went bad could be another possibility), Google the net and find out how to remove and clean the Mass air flow sensor and fix the problem, pretty easy and almost no cost, worth a try.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    edited May 2011
    The RX300 series transaxle design flaw still exists (throughout the entire worldwide automotive fleet, actually) in the new 6(10) speed but failure problems have been overcome via the adopting of DBW. The DBW "fix" sometimes unexpectedly results in a 1-2 second delay/hesitation upon re-acceleration. This occurs with certain rare but well defined downshift circumstances, SEQUENTIAL downshifts, one immediately following a previous upshift.

    As of 2010 the RX350 has adopted the Venza's F/awd system, much more functional than ours, but still well below the Acura SH-AWD system for true "AWD" functionality. This new F/awd system has been rife with problems over the past ten years or so in other marques. Failures mostly related to driveline component overheating due to driveline windup and/or tire scrubbing. The new Ford Explorer seems to be addreeing this failure prone issue by adding cooling to the PTO assembly, maybe also the rear clutch/diff'l assembly. Unclear on this latter point but in the past Ford has had failure problems with/at the rear clutch/diff'l assembly due to overheating.

    Anyone know for sure if the new RX F/awd system using water cooling for the PTO..? The rear clutch/diff'l assembly...?

    So, I would whole-heartedly recommend adding a switch to disable the rear drive clutch except for times of certain, actual need, "AWD" functionality.

    My current "love" in this market is the new F/awd I4 (187HP) Venza, rear drive via the new rear clutch system. But I just can't justify the purchase as long as the '01 F/awd RX300 remains mostly functional. I keep hoping the Venza will go hybrid (RS225-250h ??) and the I4 will not only get the Atkinson intake valve timing "treatment" but also be upgraded to DFI, Direct Fuel Injection. Base/native compression ratio as high as maybe 17:1, 14:1 effective.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Keep in mind that engine fuel starvation, absent DBW, via EFI is the method used by TC to dethrottle the engine. I have found in several instances of brief TC or VSC activation a CEL will later pop up due to an oxygen sensor output being out of range. The first time this happened (~8-10 years ago?) I went out and purchased a new oxygen sensor but the CEL cleared before I have taken the time to install the sensor.

    It was still laying there in the trunk when the CEL code recently repeated, both this time, shortly after a KNOWN TC/VSC event. Within 2 weeks the oxygen sensor CEL cleared of its own accord.

    Apparently an inrush of "pure" oxygen for a few seconds will somehow modify, temporarily, the "chemistry" of the oxygen sensor element.

    Anybody in need of a 10 year old NEW oxygen sensor...?

    Oh, with an active CEL the transaxle shift pattern is modified plus OD will NOT be used.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    You need to have someone, go somewhere, and have the CEL code read. VSC light is a simple default condition with a CEL.

    "..misfire.."

    Fuel injector(s) (sticking) or ignition problem most likely.
  • ktcktc Member Posts: 30
    Thanks, WWEST, I am also considering a new Subaru Outback 2.5i limited for a road trip car with 29MPG, and waiting for the new Lexus for wife when the 2001 RX300 transmission goes bad. After I have been taking care of the fluid change every 15000 miles, maybe that thing would last for a while.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    My '01 F/awd RX300 got its first ATF changeout, two sequential drain and fill, 5 qts, only after I discoverd the ATF was dirty and burned at ~40,000 miles. I did the second drain and fill recently, only one since the ATF wasn't nearly as "wasted" at 80,000 as it had been at 40,000.

    I don't trust Subbie's "symmetrical" AWD hype. Some say that statement only applies side to side, not F/R. The Subbie being a base FWD vehicle I would be suspect that it is mostly front torque biased.

    In any case I NEVER wish to unknowingly own/drive a front torque biased vehicle.
  • maticmatic Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Lexus RX300. 102K miles. Today I was stopped at a light waiting to make a left turn. I turned and the car started to drift left. It felt like I was on ice and had totally lost control. The car started a "beep-beep-beep alarm" and I was able to regain control. Any ideas as tohat that was?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "..Any ideas.."

    Yes, absolutely.

    For some reason the VSC system "thought" the RX was not fully following the left turn radius that the stearing wheel position indicated. One of the 2 sensors unique to VSC apparently had a "soft" failure.

    I'm voting for the incremental encoder used to track the rotational position of the searing wheel. It's located in the stearing wheel/shaft/assembly.

    I don't know for sure but I have always been of the mind that the stearing wheel position sensor automatically recalibrates itself. Otherwise an incremental type position encoder would be useless.
  • elmocoselmocos Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: :confuse: i have a 2000 lexus rx 300 and on the passenger side under the dash there is a clicking noise i have turned off the cd player and even took out the cd changer but it still makes the noise and i cant figure it out is there any one out there who knows what iit might be and possibly might know how to fix it and how much it mighht cost to fix it :confuse: :confuse:
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    That's one of the HVAC servomotors, probably the reheat/remix "blend" door.
  • txgal1txgal1 Member Posts: 14
    My Lexus has been doing the same noise since I bought it. At first I thought an animal was stuck somewhere in the dash!! I too thought it was the CD changer as it was missing the tray so I bought one and it is still making that noise. Is that expensive to have fixed??
  • dashworthdashworth Member Posts: 6
    Wow, same thing here! Is there a way this can be confirmed before going to the shop? How much $$$ should I take with me :-)
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    If the noise stops temporarily when you make a large change in the cabin temperature setpoint then it is the blend door servomotor.
  • lizzylinlizzylin Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    I have the same problem and my mechanic says it is the mode selector for the a/c - heater. It's around $500-600 to repair here in the DC area. I'm going to turn up the radio so I can't hear it and live with it until it quits working. :)
  • jimnphxjimnphx Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    Hello,

    Title says it all. Not sure if it is happening while I am driving. The beep is not as loud as the beep when I engage the alarm but it is a similar sound.
    The only thing I can notice that is an "alert" is my rear light out warning is lit. I checked all my lights and they appear to be on.
    Is this even related?

    Thx

    Jim
  • lvtobike1lvtobike1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Lexus RX300. I have been fighting it for a couple of weeks. OBd2 codes show lean on banks etc. Car will start jerking, gas mileage will drop to 4-6mpg...I understand that the fuel pressure regulator is mainly the cause. Car has 106,000 miles on it. Problem is I need a picture showing me where the regulator is located AND where the pressure relief valve is (schrader?) Can someone please help. Cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor,
    Codes indicate replaciing all fuel sensors...Can someone please help??
    Thanks,
    Denny
  • dabang2dabang2 Member Posts: 1
    Hi I have the same noise from so long. I noticed that the noise only comes in Summer months. In the cooler temperatures it is fine. Just last week during the long drive for about 300 miles the noise changed to a noise like a radio noise by the power lines. It comes for little bit and stops and starts anytime even while starting the car.

    Does anyone know the solution to this problem?
  • sandee713sandee713 Member Posts: 1
    I know it's been many years for you but was there ever a resolution to this situation. The engine in my 2001 RX300 just seized also (150,000 miles). Checked the oil a week ago, it was 1 qt low, added the quart thought all was fine. Took the car on a 2.5 hr trip, ran great all the way, all of a sudden heard a clicking noise under the hood and then everything died, pulled over, wouldn't restart, though maybe battery or alternator, put new battery in and it started but was very rough, had the car towed and mechanic just called and told me the engine seized due to no oil, told him that it was checked last week but I think he thinks I don't know how to read a dipstick (I am female afterall). I don't think they opened up the whole engine just checked oil level and oil pan which had metal shards in it. But no lights or warning came on at all, no noise from the engine other than the clicking just before it went. Could this be a related problem? I bought the car 2nd hand at 97K and have all previous maintenance records, I do my own oil changes so no "official" records for that, only other issue with the car was the P330 light for the knock sensor in bank 2 that needed to be replaced, which was scheduled for this week. Any ideas would be GREATLY appreciated!!!!
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Another case of "kill the messenger"...

    The knock sensor wasn't bad.
  • peake_strpeake_str Member Posts: 1
    I JUST had this problem and my friend is the service manager of my local Lexus Dealer. I have NO brake fluid leak, low fluid, or parking brake up. Mine is the sensor in the cap on the brake fluid that is bad. If you disconnect it from the Lex and see if it stops. You will need to replace this soon. It wont affect the performance but will not alert you to any problems with the fluid. I was quoted around $115 for the OEM cap. Just a toyota part. :) Hope this helps.
  • n33dacarn33dacar Member Posts: 1
    Is it possible to break down the antenna motor to remove a broken piece of the nylon gear tail?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Yes, but not a simple task.
  • tusker55tusker55 Member Posts: 1
    Considering to buy 2002 RX 300 with 52Kmiles from local Lexus dealer.Please advice what problem areas to look for on test drive and which service records to ask for. Thank you.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Don't.

    RX300 2001 or later expect a transaxle failure sub-100,000 miles even if the ATF is drained/flushed every 15,000 miles.

    RX330 model or better, DBW to "protect the drive train", alleviate the issue of premature transaxle failures.

    With DBW expect to randomly encounter, at the worse of all possible times, a 1-2 second re-acceleration "downshift" delay/hesitation.

    2010 RX or later if you have true need for AWD functionality. Previous RX AWD was only "pretend", for marketing purposes ONLY. '99-'00 AWD was a bit more functional than '01 to '09 but many suspect that was the causative factor for those years having a more extreme level of premature transaxle failures.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited November 2011
    I'd be more concerned about regular maintenance and engine oil gelling. The transmission reliability from Identifix looks good, as do the other systems in the car.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Eliminating the RX300 series entirely resolves the oil gelling issue. The engine design was revised by '02('01?) to alleviate that failure issue.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    That's not what I'm seeing on my link.
  • nahashnahash Member Posts: 2
    I Have a Lexus RX300 2002 MODEL AWD that I purchased new in 2002. I had to change 2 times the rear axles due to antilock brake ring cracks (ABS sensor problem). Once I changed the rear left axle when the car was 5 years old and now the right rear axle with the same problem, I was told by Lexus that they found the problem and it is again cracked ring. This ring is sealed and I am just wondering what design is that that it always cracks.This must be some kind of a reject design by Lexus, be aware the repair is 1000$ for changing it, now I paid 2000$ for 2 rear shafts.
  • vvjainvvjain Member Posts: 1
    Hi
    My RX300 (2001 model) has around 110K miles. it has auto transmission (which I believe is std). While I was driving back from a long distance trip, it suddenly started having this problem. Sometimes while speeding up from low speed (30mph or less to 50+) I feel that the transmission doesn't shift from lower gears in to Drive. I see the RPM going really high and staying high as well as I can hear the engine revving in low gear. Pls suggest what could be done to fix this.

    Thanks!
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Replace/rebuild the transaxle and consider yourself lucky you got that much mileage from the first one.

    1999, 2000, 2001 RX premature, 80-100,000 miles, transaxle failure is SOP.
  • jbl85jbl85 Member Posts: 49
    You are so negative. On this and other boards.

    Premature Trans failures are NOT STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE for these first generation cars, period. Yes some folks have had their transaxles fail prematurely, but the overwhelming majority of these vehicles run well into 200, 300k, but if you listen to this guy, you'd be lead to believe every one of these cars is a complete failure.

    It's just not true. It is true however that some people aren't happy unless they're complaining about something.
  • love23love23 Member Posts: 1
    2001 rx300 purchased in 2005 I have had the same issue. I would bang on the dash until the noise stopped. Well the problem was a senso motor that became loose and cracked. Long story short I had the motor replaced at the dealership @ a cost of $575. I had 2 hv it replaced since I had no heat.
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    edited March 2012
    You're so right JBL, most post on this forum are only for problems or complaints, rather than "everything's OK". Some are just a bit more insistent than others. These cars certainly aren't new, so they have a track record. Many have clocked loads of miles effortlessly, and some not so much. I'm glad someone else is posting both sides.
    Thanks for your contribution.
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    My 2000 RX300 2WD has only got 67K miles. I am kind of concerned about the transmission failure. So far, the only failure is the door locks. I had dealer replace the driver side main control unit, and fixed rest myself. A few time I really abused the transmission by accelerating it like a sports car. Absolutely smooth and quiet.

    I though about trading it in for a new car, just in case it would fail soon. Now I want to keep it until it dies.

    Do you experts recommend synthetic oil for this engine (possibly less likely oil gel)?
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    edited March 2012
    Jiamin,

    If you change your oil often and maintain your cooling system properly, you are not likely to have an oil gel issue. Have you noticed an issue with yours?

    I do use full synthetic (Rotella-T 5w-50 non "Energy Saving" compliant meaning it has the old-school additive package, about $21/gallon at Walmart with OEM filter from the Toyota dealer) in mine, but you don't have to use synthetic if you change your oil before the oil condition has deteriorated. Just change it often, especially since you put such low mileage on the car.

    Oh, and don't forget transmission fluid service (don't rely on the Lexus or Toyota dealer for this), especially because you put such low mileage on your car. Every year (not longer than two). Transmission pan, front differential (shared fluid with the transmission), and if you have AWD (separate fluids), the transfer case and the rear differential, too. Smell the fluid and rub it between your fingers if you want to have an easy way to guage wear. Burned smell, metallic look are signs of wear. Change tranny fluid often in any heavy FWD platform vehicle.

    There are extensive threads on the Club Lexus owners forums on this subject, as well as transmission maintenance and DIY door lock solenoid replacements.

    Good cars are worth keeping, even as they age. Mine's 14 years, biggest complaints: handles too lazy, wish it got lots better gas mileage.

    Good luck with yours.
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    Thank you for the detailed reply.

    No, I haven't noticed anything abnormal. Compared to my 02 QX4 AWD, RX is very soft meanwhile quieter, accelerates quicker. Workmanship is noticeably better, paint is better.

    I skipped a few scheduled services, just keep doing regular oil change. Now I need to have some serious sevices to get long life out of it.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    edited March 2012
    I am of the belief that it is the RX300 F/awd system that results, primarily, in the premature transaxle failures. At least the failures seem to be more prevalent with the F/awd system.

    For the '99, '00 models a fairly robust VC, Viscous Clutch, was used, plus a mechanical LSD was available as an option. As of the '01 model year the VC was made more flaccid, mostly non-functional IMMHO, and the LSD option was dropped.

    So the '01 and later F/awd RX models became primarily simple ONE-WHEEL drive systems, with TC braking as the ONLY way to reapportion engine TORQUE to the rear drive. As of 2010 the RX got the new Venza type F/awd, a significant improvement but still no cigar.

    The cigar goes to the Honda/Acura SH-AWD system.

    So your FWD "only" RX300, especially a '00 model, may not be nearly as prone to the failure of the transaxle as would be a '99 F/awd model.
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    Funny about the mention of aging RX 300's, door lock solenoids, transmissions, and Hondas. I was talking about my RX, transmission service, and a lazy lock solenoid, and a good gearhead buddy of mine who's worked for Honda service for years and he joked with me: He said if it weren't for replacing door lock solenoids and auto transmission rebuilds on Hondas (some models aren't so "durable" either), their service department probably wouldn't be able to stay in business.

    So the early RX's had some that experienced early failures... Mine (didn't fail but) was replaced under warrantee, and had at least one door lock solenoid replaced under warrantee and one since (and needs one more, I'll do a "piggyback" universal) but that doesn't prove statistically across the board failures or worse than other models. And the new "updated" transmission (2004) is as durable and well-designed as it can be expected from ECT4OD. And no, it doesn't have any of those "lazy" up or down shifts. Just the right rear door lock that's lazy. Go figure.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "...(some models aren't so "durable" either),..."

    There was a rather substantive design change, probable mostly in favor of FE, made in/for the transaxles to be used in the new '99 RX300. The problem was/is that there was an unforeseen flaw in the design. But it wasn't long before this new improved FE design found its way across the Toyota/Lexus product line ('01 Camry) and then onto the rest of the asian and US fleet.

    The final fix, 90% anyway, was arrived at via the adoption and use of DBW, e-throttle, to delay for 1-2 seconds the onset of rising engine torque in response to the accelerator until the transaxle could complete an upcoming downshift command.

    There was a followup firmware change made in about '08 to help reduce the instances of encountering the 1-2 second downshift delay but that still leaves us with the few instances not predictable by the firmware.
  • seastburnseastburn Member Posts: 4
    I went5 with the Michelin Latitude Tour tires because very low noise and rolling resistance. I always go with passenger car type tires instead of the SUV/LTX for the noise and ride difference. Smooth and quiet! The Michelin Primacy fits this bill, if you can find them.
  • rbrx300rbrx300 Member Posts: 2
    I too have the same issue on my 2000 RX300. The sound you are describing has to do with the A/C Motor Relay.
  • rbrx300rbrx300 Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know if front seats from a 2008 RX330 compatible to 2000 RX300? Will it fit onto the rail mounts and are the harness connectors for power compatible, as well?
  • irishcaseyirishcasey Member Posts: 36
    Hi, the power antenna on my 2002 RX 300 with 55K miles on it has quit retracting when the radio is turned off. I regularly clean and lube it.
    In trying to troubleshoot it, I noticed that with the ignition on, when I turn the radio off and on I don't hear the antenna motor that can usually be heard. That lead me to think that maybe it was a fuse but I looked in the manual at the three pages identifying fuses and there is not one for the power antenna.
    Any help is appreciated. Stay cool, 105 degrees here today!! Thanks.
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    That was a problematic feature which was discontinued on later models in favor of a fixed rooftop version. Short of leaving the antenna extended at all times, replacement of the entire power antenna unit is likely the only, and certainly pricey, solution. My 2¢.

    Pete :(
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Left the door ajar while the RX sat in the garage for weeks. Recharged the battery, started, battery being charged, no problem, or so I thought.

    Battery would be discharged after a day or so of just setting.

    About 500 milliamp load on the battery with everything off. 200 milliamps through the ECU-B fuse and 300 milliamps through the dome light fuse.

    Dome lamp driver circuit inside ECU-B, body ECU, over-heated...?

    Anyone else experience this and have a fix other than body ECU replacemment...?

    I expect I'll open the ECU just for a looksee....
  • billh18billh18 Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2012
    I have the same problem in my 2005 RX330 just today. Did you ever figure it out. Same two fuses.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Not yet. To may honeydoes ahead of it.....
  • kdsmm2001kdsmm2001 Member Posts: 1
    at the top of first gear there is a loud vibration/ thumping sound. i have been replacing parts for weeks now and it is still there i have replaced front struts. sway bar links center support bearings (rear drive shaft)yet it remains. strange thing is if i jack up either tire on the front and leave in the air for a little bit the vibration goes away for a few miles then just when i get excited thinking i figured it out it come back. just throwing new parts at this is getting expensive. does anyone have any ideas?
  • nahashnahash Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    I have a very strong banging noise when I accelerate from First to Second gear then after that the car runs fine, the car (RX300 2002) it sounds as it is coming from the muffler that bangs on the car's body however the dealer says the muffler is fine. I wonder if this is same what you have.
    Some suggested that the cause is from the Transmission fixture that holds the transmission to the car body and it must be replaced, any ideas?

    Thanks
    Joe
Sign In or Register to comment.