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Lexus RX 300

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Comments

  • casino2casino2 Member Posts: 26
    If the transmission is running fine, you shouldn't worried about it. If you really want to protect your transmission from failure, I recommend servicing it every 30,000 miles. It is best to use Toyota Type 4 transmission fluid. This fluid is O.E. Also replace the pan gasket and filter. Of course, the pan must be free of grease, grim, dirt etc, in order to keep it running in peak condition.

    You have the same theory as I do about keeping this Lexus RX 300 forever. If you want the best protection use full synthetic motor oil. I am doing it to my 2001 right now. Don't forget the oil filter. Maybe you can get beyond 300,000 miles with the care that you give this trunk.

    Don't go cheap on the transmission fluid because it can cause a failure if you use anything other than Toyota Type 4 .
  • casino2casino2 Member Posts: 26
    My 2001 RX 300 is doing the same thing. It is a servo switch the control the heating and air conditioning. It is a box about the size of tape measure. There is no aftermarket part so it must be purchase fron the dealer. Mine lasts about 12 years. I don't know about the life span of others? They say that it is very common problem. The part cost beyond $200.00 plus labor.
  • casino2casino2 Member Posts: 26
    It is located in the behind glove compartment. All you need to do is remove the plastic piece that is attach to glove compartment. It is not hard to replace cabin filter.
  • casino2casino2 Member Posts: 26
    I have a guy that can cut Lexus keys and programs them too. He is a mobile locksmith. If you want to leave an email at: qtl72rat@yahoo.com, I will get a phone to you. He also cut key for other makes and models.
  • dashworthdashworth Member Posts: 6
    I see reference on the web to the Type IV and the type T IV ... is there a difference? I have a 99 RX300.
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    Trans fluid type IV and T-IV are "type 4" which is only used by some Toyota vehicles, as far as I know. I think that's where the "T" comes from; it just depends on the brand. Just make sure you are using type 4 and not a generic like Dextron or Mercron that are used on many vehicles. But I've found the most cost-effective way to purchase it is with a coupon from the Toyota dealer buying the Toyota brand stuff, anyway. The stuff at the auto parts stores comes out to be more expensive, especially when you are changing the fluid in the trans pan, the front differential, and then pumping out the rest of the dirty stuff from the cooler lines... about 10+ quarts at a time.
    FWIW, there are some really cool posts for DIY service on Club Lexus.
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    edited December 2012
    Here's some info from other owers at Club Lexus:

    link title

    oops, that's the last page... but you can navigate from there.
  • dashworthdashworth Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the input, and I will check out the DIY site. My 99 RX300 was flushed about a year ago but now I'm wondering what they used for fluid. I'll flush it and the 2004 RX330 with the genuine Toyota stuff. Hopefully Santa will bring a big sack of $$$$ :-)
  • ave36prave36pr Member Posts: 1
    2001 Lexus RX300 AWD 137K miles....not driveable 1 year...3 mechanics and 5k later :o(
    PLLLLLLLEASE IF ANYONE HAS ANY ADVICE.....THIS IS CAR HELL!!!!

    Didn’t put oil in the car- Needed new engine/engine seized
    -Transmission ran smoothly
    -Car towed to mechanic #1
    Mechanic #1 -Car sat for 6 months
    -he replaced 1 engine head
    -engine strong but transmission jumps now
    -car is driven to Mechanic #2 with transmission jumping
    Mechanic #2 -took out vtt solenoid
    -changed transmission fluid twice
    -no diagnosis
    -car is not starting
    - Car towed to mechanic #3
    Mechanic #2-replaces missing VTT solenoid
    -replaces battery
    -says ECU is burnt out
    -replaces ECU and Keys
    -car starts
    -transmission is jumping
    My Theories: (Because the transmission was running smoothly when the engine burnt out then the transmission jumped after the engine rebuild)
    1.) Transmission was stolen/switched by mechanic #1
    Q:How do I get the vin off the transmission? (Is it that difficult? because Mechanic #3 doesn’t seem to want to do it)
    Q:What will you charge to get the VIN off the transmission?
    2.) Car sat for 6 months at mechanic #1. Q:Can the transmission die from sitting for 6 months?
    3.) When the engine was rebuilt by Mechanic #1 the engine ground cables behind the air intake manifold were left lose (not reconnected properly or disturbed), and this causes the transmission to work erratically, and the ECU to eventually burn out when being test driven by mechanic #2 or #3. Q:Is this possible? Q:Could certain ground cables in the engine have been disturbed when the engine was repaired? Q:Can you see if any of the engine repairs could have caused the transmission trouble?
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