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Comments
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Does the 99 have the manually adjusted valve clearance? Was this done on schedule? Is it possible that an exhaust valve failed to open and that blew out the head gasket?
I am not sure if I need more power than my 1999 delivers, but I thought it was interesting.
http://www.4x4wire.com/news/tone_monday/tone_sc02/
I've had many a discussion with him about Isuzus and he's just thick headed and I'm not impressed with anything he says or puts out.
-mike
http://www.ameinfo.com/news/Detailed/48531.html
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I read that blower site, 39hp for $2850? That is a lot to pay for so little gain, but might be handy at very high altitudes. The pictures on that site fail to make the blower unit look well built. How long would it last? How likely are other engine troubles when adding a blower? It is not for me.
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No symptoms, just CEL. Maybe the fix is a piece of electrical tape over the CEL, but then the ODBII will tell on me next time I have to pay for a county emissions sticker, so I better deal with it.
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If the condition clears itself, will the CEL go back off?
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Is there a way to get the CEL to blink out the CEL code so I can find out what the problem is? (my 1984 Trooper had a couple pins to short out then the engine light would blink a pattern, this happened only once because I took it all apart just to see how it worked and missed a hose putting it all back together)
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Trooper reliability in my household all the way back to 1984 is legendary, now with two CEL back to back, there is some doubt.
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In the next few months I will get OME shocks the HD mid grade ones and new tires.
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So far I am going with the AT-Revos LT245/75R16C because they are as tall as 265/70R16 and 7 lbs lighter, yet they have 15/32nds tread depth compared to the usual 13/32nds.
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Three days in a row I am the only one to post here! Why?
Perhaps everyone is out enjoying one of the last weekends of Autumn in their Troopers! Don't fret - they'll be back. The boards are usually relatively quiet on weekends.
tidester, host
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I have been also considering (compare to Revos) the Michelin LTX M/S, but LTX don't come in LT245/75R16C, they only come in "E" load range in that size, and I think LRE rubber would be too hard. They do have LTX M/S in LT245/75R16C, and it weighs only one more pound than the 245E. My tire store guy says even though the LTX M/S web page claims 15/32nd, they actually measure 14/32.
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LTX M/S would be a longer wearing tire than the Revo and maybe a little quieter(M/S vs. AT), but the Revo's softer rubber as it wears down is a very good thing. I had an emergency stop, car pulled out in front of me in the rain (driver on cell phone ran a stop sign), I expected to kill the guy in a t-bone accident that would total both vehicles, but, I stopped impressively well with my current set of Revo's that have less than 5/32nds left. I wonder if the LTX M/S would have allowed me to stop as well under those conditions, I doubt it. So I am still thinking Revo for the next set.
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soft/medium/firm, N15/N65??? etc...
Opinions, benefits, concerns? Ride quality on vs off road? Does someone make OME for them or are they their own manufacturer? The descriptor for their shocks is similar to Trailmaster Suspensions description of some of their shocks.
Looks like there is a monotube adjustable KONI that might be interesting. Monotube, high pressure BUT being able to soften it to a certain degree. There is also the KYB Monomax. I'm concerned that the monotube shocks may be a bit stiff on washboard dirt roads, for example, rattling the Trooper apart. I know someone with the Bilsteins, higher pressure shock than the Monomax, but they are pretty stiff.
I currently have RS9000's, but feel that while they remain controlled over large bumps they are too bouncy over small ones. I think they are, perhaps, not worn, but weakening somewhat in fine control. I've varied them from a setting of 2 to 4 and find the ride acceptable, but I find small road imperfections cause the Trooper to wander or bounce a bit (getting some tire bounce). I don't think it is related to being too stiff, as I also notice this on the softest setting. I do have 265/70 tires, so I'm carrying a bit more unsprung weight.
With a low setting, I can fly down washboard dirt roads and not even feel it. Then crank them up for harder stuff. I'm thinking of trying a warranty exchange. The shocks are about 5 years old. I like them, but wish they were more of a true gas shock, providing a little more control.
Thanks.
-mike
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So when the CEL came back I was worried about another expensive repair. Turned out to be a not tight enough gas cap, never had a loose gas cap before, still, I am a little embarrassed, but having a $0 trip to the shop is a great thing.
Anyway, I found a deal at Sears this week, them will provide free installation promotion. This time, I will just go with Monroe Sensa-Trac ($40 each) and wish them last longer than Rancho. Sears also carries Rancho 5000 and 9000x. The sales men at Sears should have a second job at used car dealer. When I asked them to order the shock, they pretend they don’t know the free installation promotion! Later they guy try to sell me 4 tires and claimed that I have to replace my current Yokahoma which only have 30k miles. Well, even if I decide to buy tires, I will go to Costco, which is $30 cheaper and offer free installation.
I first added a bullbar, and then added the OME shocks. The stock shocks could not handle some of the offroading I did in the summertime. 45 minutes bouncing over sand dunes to remote fishing spots was too much for them, actually 10 minutes was too much for them. They would start losing performance and I was bouncing all over the trails.
The OMEs were such a huge improvement offroad, even the kids were picking to ride with me rather than in my brothers expedition because his stock shocks would fade and bounce like crazy. The OMEs just stay even the whole time.
On road they are good also. I am very happy with the performance, less nose dive on braking, less body rolls in and out of cornering. Bumps are not as harsh (still jarring, just not as much).
I have about 20K on my OMEs and they still seem good. I really don't know how long they should last, but the stocks seemed dead after 18K.
I have the n65/15 setup. There weren't really any options since I have the bullbar upfront, they recommended that set from ARB. You should go to the website...www.arbusa.com...and email them your questions and ask for their recommendations, they are really good about getting back to people.
I don't know about other brands, but the OMEs are designed specifically for the trooper and I have been extremely excited about the performance...They were definitely the best upgrade I added to my truck.
You can buy them on the web and have a local shop install them. Try www.rocky-road.com or www.4x4connection.com for pricing.
Last one...you don't need OME springs to use these shocks. I don't have them and have no issues running just the shocks.
http://www.autoweek.com/news.cms?newsId=101233
RE: Autoweek article...Well, at least Isuzu has a "plan." ;-)
http://www.4wheelparts.com/4wp/products/productLine.asp?cat=JEE&a- mp;prodline=383&catName=Jeep%2BAccessories&man=BEST
If anybody really is looking for a hard cover and would be planning to repaint it anyway, let me know and we can probably work something out.
Well, Nissan came back strong from the brink. Here's hoping Isuzu can.
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Here's a web page to make you feel good about what your Trooper can do:
http://www.expeditionswest.com/vehicles/ewvehicles/Isuzu_Trooper/
http://www.off-road.com/vw/features/trooper/trooper.html
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Even if our Troopers become a little obscure, we can still enjoy them:
http://www.ebroadcast.com.au/ecars/Steyr/Pinzgauer.html
I have a set that I'm very happy with so far. Only had them on a couple years now (25000 miles)
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201K miles on 1984 Trooper 80Hp 1.9L 4 speed manual 201K miles 17MPG commuting, replaced alternator and belts and water pump all at 140K, replaced power steering pully, replaced carburator throttle plate for worn larger throttle butterfly valve shaft holes leaking air in. Used 1 qt. per 1000 miles at 200K miles up from 1 qt. in 4000 miles at 30K miles. Got 90K miles on each of two replacement sets of tires. Sold because I moved South and wanted A/C, plus years of salt exposure made it rusty underneath to the point of weakening the frame.
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145K miles on 1995 Trooper 175Hp 3.2L 5 speed manual 16.5MPG commuting, timing belt and tensioner changed, fought the lifter ticking noise and was winning every battle, then totalled by rear ended so hard that the $6000 air bags exploded, Volvo that hit me was carried away on a flatbed, my Trooper was still driveable. Used no measureable amount of oil between changes, except when towing a heavy load a long way, then 1/2 qt. per 1000 miles.
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55K on 2001 Trooper 215Hp? 3.5L 5 speed manual 17.5MPG commuting, changed all fluids, changed thermostat and serpentine belt, uses 1/2 qt. oil between oil changes, runs strong. 145K miles to go, or about 7 more years. Maybe by then there will be a new Isuzu Trooper on the market long enough to prove itself worthy of the name.
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So far over 400K+ miles and 20+ years ($11K new, $22K new, and $14K used respectively compare that to the value in buying a Toyota land Cruiser! ) driving Troopers without any significant problems.
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Meanwhile, my wife's minivan had to go back to the dealer for repairs 28 times (new transmission, new dashboard, cracked battery three times, etc...) in just 45K miles, replaced it with same (she likes it and I get a big discount) this time only in shop for repairs to fix leaking head gaskets, replace the radio 4 times and new brakes at 50K.
I pulled the shocks off the front. One of the shocks has about 2" of free-play before I can hear the oil go through the valve. On a setting of 5 that play is reduced to less than 1". The other shock has almost no free-play even at the softest setting. There is no external sign of oil leakage on the shock.
Warranty Direct is one of our links on the main Edmunds.com page.
Steve, Host
This may be where the OME provides significant improvement. It is a gas shock, I assume low pressure, and may control those undulations better as compared to the 9000's.
The polyurethane bushings for the sway bars may be good too.
Still thinking on what to do next. The KYB Monomax, being a high pressure shock are a known quality to me so I'm leaning that way. They should be softer than the Bilstein. We'll see.
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I used to be a senior reactor operator at a nulcear research reactor, it is possible to look through the metal at the hydrocarbons (combustion, oil flow, etc..) inside running machinery using neutron radiation, side effect is that the parts become slightly radioactive. The metal remains just visible enough to see cracks. We did this for a diesel walk behind tiller to diagnose a lubrication problem for Yanmar.
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Traction.) Is there a significant traction (stopping power is my major concern to protect myself from other drivers) advantage with
LT265/75R16LRC(16/32 tread depth 8.1 tread width) vs.
LT245/75R16LRC(15/32 tread depth 7.5 tread width) vs.
P265/70R16(13/32 tread depth 7.8 tread width)
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Wear.) I read some reviews, is seems that a heavily loaded or poorly aligned Revo will wear out quickly. Will the larger size last longer because it is running at a lower percent of its full load? If it lasts longer dos that necessarily mean the rubber will be too hard to get a good grip on cold pavement? Tread Depth, my expereience has been to run 255/70 Revos from 13/32 to 3/32 will be about 50K miles, so that's 10/32's over 50K miles or 1/32 per 5K miles, does it follow then that I should get 15K more miles out of the LT265's that have 3/32 more tread to start with?
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MPG.) those of you that run LT265/75R16LRC, how much MPG did you lose compared to stock tires? Going from 18 MPG commuting to 16 MPG will cost me 347 gallons of gasoline at $2.05/89 Octane that's $711.80 over 50K miles. Therefore a 2 MPG loss more than doubles the cost of the tires. Do I gain more than good looks from the larger size? I am not an avid off-roader, but I do go off road once in a while.
(LT265/75R16LRC are 31.8 in. diameter 48lb.)
(LT245/75R16LRC are 30.7 in. diameter 41lb.)
(P245/70R16 are 29.6 in. diameter 36lb.)
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Summary: The difference in tire price vs. size is small. The real cost of a larger tire is lost MPG. Will the savings of a longer lasting tire and the advantage of nicer looking bigger tires offset the extra cost for fuel? This is subjective, I know, but what do you think?
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Revo Sizes including weight:
http://www.bridgestonetire.com/tireselector/dpp/sizespecs.asp?pas- - - - - sproductid=1055
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Competitive tires:
LTX M/S has no LT245/75R16LRC, LT265/75R16LRC is 47lbs, expensive.
Yokohama G051 has not LT245/75R16LRC, but is a low cost high MPG tire.
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Thank you for your help, I hope I am not boring you with my excessive thinking about tires.