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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Yes, my Trooper is 4WD and 5 speed manual transmission. Manual transmission makes the Trooper more fun, especially when driving it hard. I like that my trooper slows down when I let off the gas even down hill, it is scary to me the feeling of acceleration that you can get when letting off the gas and going down hill in a free rolling automatic. Now they have "grade logic" or some such in the automatics -- about time.
    ..
    A long time ago I had a 1964 Corvair Eight Door Greenbriar Deluxe. I built an engine from junk yard scrap while running with the old engine to the junk yards in Florida, the ones with the rattle snakes in cages out front as a caution to scavengers that liked to crawl under. That engine I built with custom pistons and the distributer was very easy to adjust inside a little trap door on the rear of the van. The engine was running wide open a lot since it was small compared to the van. So, I would adjust my timing to match the fuel I was able to get. In the mountains out West the octane was lower than back East so I made this timing adjustment many times when driving cross country. Fuel economy was much better with higher octane and more agressive timing.
    ..
    Along comes the very first Isuzu Trooper I have ever seen in 1984. I bought it in San Diego. I took it apart to see how it worked thinking I'd better be ready to work on it all the time just like I worked on my Greenbriar all the time. Never had to do much with the Trooper, just regular maintenance for 201K miles when I sold it so I could buy my 1995 Trooper with A/C. I decided to do a octane vs. MPG test over about 2 dozen tanks of gas some of each the low and midgrade and high octane fuel. I found that the Trooper would get better MPG with the midgrade enough to offset the extra dime per gallon. The high octane fuel did not add very much more MPG compared to mid grade and so I used mid grade since. My 1984 Trooper only had an 11 gallon or so fuel tank, my reason for wanting more MPG was not so much to save money but to increase range between gas stops. Several times I was crossing a large distance (Alaska, Idaho, Monana etc..) through the night and had to lower speed to 45 MPH to be able to keep going until a gas station would open along my route, I prefered to keep driving rather than stop and wait a couple hours for the gas station to open in the morning.
    ..
    I have never repeated my MPG test over such a large number of tanks of gas, but I do like to use mid grade or sometimes they only has regular and high grade so I get high grade. Your mileage will vary.
  • troopergirltroopergirl Member Posts: 1
    I have 89 isuzu trooper, i have replace relays, coils, disturbios, fuses. I have checked wires. I have even changed the ecm and still no spark. I also changed the maual under the intake. What do I do??????? What usually goes wrong with troopers???? Around here everytime I find one in a junk yard it is never wrecked. Please reply. I miss my trooper.... :cry:
  • silverghostsilverghost Member Posts: 154
    "Grade Logic" in late model automatics has the same effect as gearing down in a five-speed. Great stuff, Isuzu!

    dave
  • silverghostsilverghost Member Posts: 154
    Sounds like it's time to consult a mechanic who knows more than a little about electronic ignitions. Could be the battery, alternator, voltage regulator (assuming you have one) . . . Keep us posted, and good luck!

    dave
  • wvpianomanwvpianoman Member Posts: 8
    I've noticed my Trooper doing that - and didn't know why.. Wow, now if they could get cruise to be autopilot we'd all be set! ;)
  • yngveyngve Member Posts: 12
    It sounds like the solenoid isn't disengaging properly. I had a Porsche 914 that had the same problem - I'd have to whack the starter with a wrench to get it to stop grinding. Once I replaced the starter, no more problem.

    As for the Duelers, everyone I know who's run 'em has noticed quick wear. A friend w/a 2002 Chevy 2500 running the same size 'upgrade' tires as most troopers (265-70-16) went through a set (almost down to the cords) in less than 40k miles - he switched to BFG TAs, and has managed 60+k with a good 1/4 to 1/3 tread left. YMMV.

    SYJ
  • dcamdcam Member Posts: 15
    Your starter is failing.It is common on troopers.It's time to replace it.
  • jalinkerjalinker Member Posts: 1
    Is there anywhere I can get a definitive layout for ALL vacuum hoses? I have seen the few pics on planetisuzoo.com but it leaves a lot out, still... I just got my 88 and found a lot of hoses needing replacement and during this, I have found a lot that are not hooked to anything. When I used the aforementioned planetisuzoo pics, I followed what I could but now I get a good start and then id shuts off. Cannot keep it running at all. It WAS just having an issue with not wanting to start when the engine was hot, now the symptoms have spread. I really want to think that both issues are vacuum-related, but I cannot find much out there for routing...

    Please help!!

    Thanks!
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    You need to pick up a Haynes manual for that Trooper at Auto Zone. The book is only about $10 and it gives pretty good pics for hose routing.
  • bawbcatbawbcat Member Posts: 118
    I just got back from a vacation to Costa Rica, where I did a lot of driving in a little Daihatsu Terios mini-SUV. When I got back, I really appreciated how smooth and solid my Trooper is (and also how good the roads are in the US). In CR, there are lots of 4WD vehicles because the roads are pretty bad. Not surprisingly there are lots of Troopers. That's a pretty rough enrivonment, and most of the Troopers were older models, so that says something about their durability.
  • 99trooper99trooper Member Posts: 87
    Hi all..
    I put Rancho 9000's on my 99 Troop about 3 years ago. I don't know if its just me getting old or the shocks but they don't seem to ride nearly as well as when I first got them, and I can't find a setting that I'm happy with. I also have Revo's on my Troop. So I'm wondering how I can tell if they are "worn out", and whether I could improve the on road ride by going to Bilsteins or something else?

    My complaints about the ride are that its very jarring over small bumps on the road, and when I put the shocks on the 1 or 2 looser settings, the handling gets VERY sloppy. Speed bumps are a nightmare right now.

    So, has anyone had the 9000's and changed them for something different?

    thanks!
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Old Man Emu to the rescue!
    http://www.arbusa.com/Nitrocharger.htm
    ..
    I have put nearly 400K miles on three Troopers. I have put maybe 80K miles on Troopers with OME shocks and rear coil springs. OME Nitrocharger low pressure gas shocks including the firm ride version (I like the mid grade between comfort and expedition versions) have a soft ride over little bumps and firm control over larger bumps such as speed bumps. I also like the OME rear coil springs, but these add 1.5" height which is good for off road but not good for MPG or for grandma to climb in. The OME last the life of the Trooper as far as I can tell, no deterioration over the 80K miles I put on them. OME makes the Trooper much more fun to drive. I almost forgot, a plus for offroading is that the OME shocks are more durable and have longer stroke for max wheel travel to prevent loosing traction.
  • bawbcatbawbcat Member Posts: 118
    I also have Ranco 9000's on my 98 Trooper and have never been terribly impressed with them. I replaced the stock shocks at around 50k and got mild but not huge improvement in control. I tend to feel the small bumps a lot, as if the shocks were firm, but the truck still feels floaty on big bumps and has significant nosedive on braking. If I was to do it again, I'd probably go with OME if I wanted the best, or just go with a cheaper gas-charged shock. Several people around here seem to be happy with the likes of Monroe.
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    FWIW, I've been running the RS9000X (9 adjustment settings) on my '00 for the past 3 years at the 5 setting with no issues so far & very good control. The 5 setting works very well on the highway with a slight increase in harshness around town (only really noticeable on speed bumps)...my wife doesn't like a harsh ride anyway & she has no complaints at this setting. I also tow a trailer on occasion & needed the adjustment flexibility. I've run Bilstein's before on sport sedans & liked them though they are firm with the 100# nitrogen pre-load & increased spring rate which broke a shock mount putting the shock through the floorboard. The OEM Tokico non gas shocks were worthless at 34k & had to go & I caught a deal on the Rancho's...otherwise, I was leaning towards the OME.
  • iride333iride333 Member Posts: 2
    I'm glad to see this topic addressed. It's the reason I am cruising through this forum. I have a 99 Trooper with a little over a 100K on it. It has gone from using a quart of oil every 1500 miles to a quart every 500 miles. I talked to Isuzu America who told me I need to have a dealer do an EGR, PCV check, an oil cosumption check and a compression test. I don't know how much that costs, but it's really more than I have to spend at this point. (The guy had the nerve to tell me he drives a Toyota) I really like the Trooper, but I'll be really ticked if I have to do a ring job at 100,000 miles on a 6 cyl. Our other car is a 4 cyl 94 Toyota Camry with 350,000 miles on the original motor-maybe the cust rep had a point. All reports I read before I bought it said the Trooper uses oil, but it seems excessive to me. Is there any support from Isuzu on this?
  • iride333iride333 Member Posts: 2
    I had this happen with my 99 Trooper and it turned out to be the computer. It is such a rare problem, I bought a used computer from a junk yard and it took care of the problem.
  • superskeetsuperskeet Member Posts: 14
    From a previous post:

    Both of my '99 Troopers were using about 1 quart every 500 miles. I've tried Sea Foam and a few other additives in both the oil and gas and checked the PVC system with no improvement. Then I tried CD2 Oil Detergent and my oil consumption improved to 1 quart per 1500 miles within 3000 miles from the time I added it and is still improving. I found it at WalMart and it was less than $3 a bottle. This stuff really works and I highly recommend anyone with oil consumption problems in their '98 or '99 Trooper try this first.
  • 99trooper99trooper Member Posts: 87
    Thanks to everyone for your comments. I'm glad to see I'm not the only one that isn't totally impressed with the Ranchos. I guess I'll take a look at the OMEmu's.
  • makayemakaye Member Posts: 81
    I had the RS9000's - put on at 400 miles on the odometer, now have 36K - and just changed to the MONOMAX by KYB (different than the gas-a-just). I am VERY happy with the ride quality on the street, off road, and everywhere in between.

    The suspension is a stock 2001. I may go for OME springs with a lift in the future, but for general use, the MONOMAX can't be beat in my opinion. Soft on abrupt hits but very well controlled on the whoop-dee-doos. They are softer than Bilsteins on a Trooper. $50 a piece online.
  • coastie007coastie007 Member Posts: 33
    I know it took me forever to respond to you guys help but Boxtrooper, I myself just made a similar long trip. Went from VA to IN and back the other way 10 days later, and I too went through the Appalachian Mtns. Over 11 ½ hours, driving 75 mph, I was consistently hitting about 285 miles and my gas light was coming on. The first trip I averaged 14.55 mpg (A/C full blast, which after a charge might I add is still SEMI COOL only, not cold and has not made any improvement since the charging; Used a kit and the pressure gauge said I was low so I filled to the full mark, comments on that one anyone?). Then on the way home I averaged 14.72 mpg on highway and had my air off almost the whole way home.
    I am driving a 3.5L Auto with the TOD. It is a 2001 Sport with 51,000 miles, and I was the only one in it with probably 100lbs or so of cargo. I have the same Yokohama Geolanders that you are using (only about 6,000 miles on them), everything else is completely stock on my truck, no roof rack either. Almost 15 mpg on the highway just isn’t right, can’t be. Maybe it’s this oil vs. gas thing that was being brought up.
    Boxtrooper I am going to try your experiment and see what happens, So what yearly fuel injector cleaner do you use? In the mean time where is this “CD2” for oil found and for how much? And there are a couple things that people mentioned they clean two being the EGR and PVC, what are the others . . . any of that work or suggested?
    I appreciated all the help by the way.
  • coastie007coastie007 Member Posts: 33
    prior to leaving for the haul there, and back. I did and oil change with the mobil1 5w-30 oil a double guard fram oil filter and an oil additive too.
  • superskeetsuperskeet Member Posts: 14
    CD2 can be found at WalMart, NAPA, or Pep Boys. It's $2.97 at WalMart. I tried cleaning the EGR and PVC with no change at all.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I use Valvoline products because my dad always did. So the annual injector cleaner is the Valvoline Synpower Injector Cleaner once a year version (they also have an every 3000 miles version). I worry about additives side effects, so I use the fuel injector cleaner just a tank or two of gasoline ahead of the regular oil change, just in case the additive made its way to the oil.
    ..
    I also use Valvoline Synpower oil, the 5 qt. bottle of 10W30 at Walmart and an extra qt. of 5W30 (Walmart seems to always have only the 10W30 in the 5qt. and the 5W30 in the 1qt.). I top off the oil beyond the 5qt. to the full line on the dip stick and put the rest of the 1qt. bottle (or an extra 1qt.) in one of the back door pockets. I use Purolator Pure one oil filters. PL24459 larger size if I can find it, or PL14458 regular size oil filter.
    ..
    I do not think the synthetic oil is needed if not towing or otherwise driving the engine really hard really often. I used dyno oil for 201K on my 1984 Trooper and for 80K on my 1995 until I started towing. My 2001 Trooper has always had synthetic, Mobile1 until I bought it at 30K then Valvoline SynPower. I do think the synthetic will make the engine last longer, but more importantly, I think if the oil level went low for some reason, that the synthetic oil would prevent damage a little longer because of its higher temperature stability.
    ..
    I have not changed or looked at the EGR or PCV valves, but my mechanic (http://www.creechimport.com/) might be checking them when they do regular maintenance. Creech is a great mechanic and would know what to look for.
    ..
    Just a thought on transmission efficiency: Can the Trooper auto tranny be adjusted to shift more "crisply" and stay in "torque converter lockup mode" more of the time thereby making it behave more like the manual transmission? This might trade having to feel when it shifts for using less fuel. Did your automatic transmission ever shift to a lower gear going over the mountains? I was able to keep 5th gear all the way because of being up near 70 MPH.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    This isn't too BIG a surprise for the Trooper. It isn't areodynamic and the higher you speed abover 65mph the larger the hit on mpg's. Since you are driving a 2001 model, it is a little concerning though. My 99' doesn't get the MPG that my 2001 does. It lags by about 3 MPG, but the 2001 is NOT a 4X4. Still, I get 18 - 19 mpg on the highway at about 70mph. It falls off quickly when I push it up to 75-80mph.

    The low charge on the A/C will cause a problem but so will an overcharge on the Freon. I made that mistake on my 99' and the pressure switch kept cutting the compressor off if the outside temperature was below about 88 F. As long as it was HOT outside it performed well, but not otherwise. The troubling thing is, you have the 01' Trooper and it has an electrical cooling fan that should improve the cooling efficiency of your A/C. My 01' will FREEZE you out after you've had it running 10-15 minutes. You might want to check that your compressor isn't switching on and off constantly now that you've re-charged your freon.

    I vented some freon pressure off my 99' and corrected the problem and it cools much better than it was before. Not up to the standard of my 01' but much better than before.
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see any mention that the A/C recirculate button was depressed while experiencing the lack of cooling - otherwise check / listen for continuous compressing cycling as stated previously.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I got the OMEs several years ago...they are great. Huge improvement on the ride on and offroad.
  • riley7riley7 Member Posts: 1
    I test drove a 2002 Trooper, and I'm thinking of buying it. It actually handles very well on back highways and even on twisty curves. I was surprised given what I'd heard. However, it tends to wander in its lane at freeway speeds and requires constant steering adjustments. It's not too bad at 55, a little wearying at 60, and at 65 and above, it's very tiring and prevents me from relaxing. I could probably adjust and get used to it, but it's not fun. Is this common to Troopers, or is it a problem that has a solution, or is it unique to the Trooper I'm considering? The vehicle has 54,000 miles, and new Big Foot A/Ts. I don't know about the shocks. Everything seems stock. Thanks for any help.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    This sounds like an alignment problem or a tire problem. I have had issues with a Trooper holding a straight line, but it was corrected by front alignment. Ask the present owner to fix it prior to buying. The new tires could be a problem, there might be a manufacturing defect on one of them.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I had a wondering 1984 Trooper. Even after repeated alignments the problem persisted. The problem was not always there. It turned out that the tires with 90K+ on them were weakening in the sidewalls, this caused the tires themselves to wonder and take my Trooper with them. A replacement set of tires and all was well.
    ..
    A note about used cars and Troopers, when I was looking to replace my totalled 1995 Trooper (rear ended by large Volvo, Volvo front end gone and the roof bent as if a tree had fallen on it, Trooper drove away, but airbags replacement would have been >$6000). Many of the used Troopers were fitted with assorted tires of the lowest quality imaginable, so, if your used Trooper has old or missmatched tires, have them looked at before spending a bunch on an alignment, maybe you can get a free alignment check.
  • silverghostsilverghost Member Posts: 154
    Trooper's are pretty tall relative to their track width. They all wander to some degree, moreso when there's a crosswind. That said, have a reputable shop check the alignment (I've had mixed success getting my own Trooper aligned). You can make a significant improvement by replacing the rubber sway bar bushings, front and rear, with poly-eurathane bushings. They're widely available, and doing them is a piece of cake. For me they made a noticeable difference in sway, nosedive and wandering. I haven't replaced shocks yet (my 2001 is at 55K), but many here say that upgraded shocks help - KYB MonoMax, Rancho 9000 and OME seem to be popular. A slightly wider tire might also help. I went from 245/70's to 255/70's and noticed a bit of improvement. 265's might have been better.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    A pull from time to time is quite common. Multiple alignments usually don't work. The only success I have had is with left to right tire rotation on fronts. Any tire pull or slight variation with a vehicle as heavy as the trooper will cause a pull. I found ignoring it was the best thing to do...it went away once the tires settle with new rotation.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Well after no success at multiple shops I did some work myself. I found this article.

    www.lssolutions.demon.co.uk/Car/4wd.htm

    So I removed the plate on the front axle and checked out the vacuum hoses. I was not getting vacuum through both sides. I figured out that if I reversed the vacuum I could get 4wd running. Actually, by reversing the vacuum I got 4wd Hi...full time, whether there was slippage or not, TOD button pressed or not.

    I ordered replacement solenoids from St. Charles with 10% internet discount - $145. I should be putting them in next week. I hope this fixes the issue with my system. If not, at least it will make it so I can engage 4wd, if the transfer case needs work, well that is the next step.
  • coastie007coastie007 Member Posts: 33
    That is good advice on the Oil, I saved your note and i'll try to follow it for the oil changes and using a larger filter could definetley not hurt either. I don't know if the auto tranny adjustment question was directed towards me but I don't know the answer. When I was going through the mountains with cruise control set at 75 I found it shifting down to 4th quite often. For fear of worse fuel use I quickly quite using that in the mountains, only on perhaps 3 or 4 occassions at 75 mph and NO cruise control did the engine have to shift down to 4th otherwise. What do you think? I still worry though that 14.5 mph on the highway is too low.
  • coastie007coastie007 Member Posts: 33
    Perhaps next time I will try my trip at 70 mph then and hope for the best. But 4 mph lower is a big drop from what others report.

    I haven't actually tried yet to listen and see if my compressor is cutting in and out, I'll listen and get back to you. I do notice however that at higher speeds the air blows cooler and the hotter the days the air blows warmer. It is intermittent though. The cool air will blow out for 1 minute or maybe even 10, then you get a jump of warm air. It's very inconsistent. You mention an electrical cooling fan, should/how do I check that. And with the compressor switching on and off, if that is the case with mine, what do I need to do? Because it would definetely explain the inconsistency of the warm and cold air. My 01' does not freeze me out. Let me know how you vented some of the freon pressure and i'll try that on mine.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I drive only slighltly above the posted limit. I don't want a speeding ticket. If I am being passed a lot I will speed up to just below the passer's speed, until they are gone then return to less than 10% above the posted limit.
    ..
    MPH indicated with my 265/70 is 659/684 of what it was with 245/70, so when my speedo says 70mph the police radar says 70*684/659 = 72.65 MPH, so I drive with the speedo no more than 72 mph which means I am going 74.73mph when I an cruising long disatances.
    ..
    Maybe some people are posting really bad highway MPG because they drive 80mph+.
    ..
    If I was getting 14.5 mpg on the highway and less around town, I'd be trying to correct the problem or changing cars. Lots of low prices on used cars (including troopers) out there these days. I get 16.7mpg +/- 0.3mpg around town and 19.3 +/- .7 on the highway and my wife thinks I should get a small econobox car instead, I pointed out that her minivan gets no better around town and only few mpg on the highway and she lets me be OK with the MPG I am getting on my Trooper, but then she wants a little econobox car. What about the kids and being safer by surviving in car vs car collisions... Trooper has a good record of protecting my family and she likes her van's practicality, so we keep driving these 17/19mpg and 18/23mpg vehicles instead of spending big bucks for a silly whimpy hybrid. I am going to get a diesel Trooper when they become available in a few years. Diesel Troopers in the UK are called "Duty" and they get 31mpg on imperial gallons of diesel, that would be around 28mpg in USA gallons. Is everyone ready for the environmental activists to push driving a diesel to reduce CO2 pollution by 30%? This will happen after 2006 when low sulfur diesel is standard in the USA, diesels will be considered cleaner than gas engines! If Isuzu does not use its diesel experience and know how to compete in the USA after 2006, then I will believe that Isuzu is finished in the Trooper market. I think the SUV fad is passing and that those of us who like their Troopers for their large capable durable functionality will continue to drive Troopers while most other folks will go for a old fashioned regular low riding station wagon that they are now calling "CrossOver". Subaru is positioned great right now as awd station wagons called crossovers will be the top seller. Subaru has a diesel version of its boxer engine in development. http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Features/articleId=105308
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Coastie007, your description of the air coming out COLD and then WARM in cycles makes me think your compressor is cycling on and off. That's a classic indication of it. The pressure switch is turning the compressor on and off due to an improper charge of freon gas.

    BEFORE you vent any freon, start the engine, run the A/C on Max in the heat of the day, and listen to the compressor. Is it cycling on and off every few minutes??

    To vent it some, you'll need a freon manifold gauge and hose kit. Monitor the pressure at the suction connection going to the compressor. The fitting is up near the firewall in the engine compartment in front of the steering wheel. It sticks up on the tubing, very easy to access. Connect there and watch the pressure on the gauge, vent it slightly and listen to the compressor for cycling. It should run continously if its hot outside and you have the windows down so it can't shut off on temperature meeting setpoint.
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    Don't know if the compressor clutch has a clutch gap spec or not. If so, it may only require a shim if the "freon" charge is correct.
  • bawbcatbawbcat Member Posts: 118
    This is not new info, but I wasn't aware of it until now. I got a letter from my local Isuzu dealer announcing their new line of Isuzu brand pickup trucks. I went to isuzu.com, and they look almost exactly like the Chevy Colorado. Same powertrains even, no diesel. It's too bad they didn't do more to differentiate them. I really don't see the point of trying to sell rebadged Colorados. The D-Max models offered internationally, while I think they share the same basic platform, are better looking and have more interesting powertrain options. Oh well, at least US Isuzu dealers now have more than one model to sell. Hopefully it will help keep them in business a bit longer until they can bring in the new Isuzu-built SUV that has been rumored.
  • bawbcatbawbcat Member Posts: 118
    I did some more searching and found a few articles that said the new SUV was cancelled at the same time the new pickups were introduced. Too bad. Isuzu really needs some new and unique product if they are going to stay in business in the US. We'll just have to keep our Troopers going and see what happens.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    All Isuzu really needs to make a big comeback is to get their diesel engineers in high gear and sell into all the cars out there. The badges would be required to be posted proudly on cars and trucks with Isuzu diesels inside. No more having Isuzu engines and whole Isuzu built vehicles without giving credit where credit is due.
    ..
    Isuzu Inside, Efficiency by Isuzu, Isuzu Power, Isuzu Diesel
    ..
    In the mid sized trucks Isuzu is known for the best fuel economy and lowest emissions and excellent durability, while also being available at an attractive price.
    ..
    How about the Isuzu Diesel Minivan hybrid that gets 45 MPG and does not idle at lights so the soccer moms don't her the diesel clatter?
    ..
    How about the Isuzu Diesel Trooper or other SUY with a frame and 5000lb. towing that gets 33 MPG even with the big tires?
    ..
    How about the Isuzu Diesel commuter compact car that is a mild hybrid so it does not have to idle at lights or in stop and go traffic and so it can take off quickly, but the efficent diesel gets 65+MPG on long commutes. (The current crop of hybrids in the USA are not suited to long drives, they are all about stop and go across town, their highway MPG is not that great)
    ..
    These are where Isuzu needs to get back into play and then bring out the new Troopers. hopefully Isuzu sees it this way too. Isuzu made some really nice cars that can come back now that GM no longer has the strangle hold on Isuzu.
    ..
    Maybe Isuzu and Toyota and Subaru and Suzuki will get together and buy what's left GM. http://www.isuzuperformance.com/isupage/
  • bawbcatbawbcat Member Posts: 118
    Great historical info on the above referenced web page. Thanks!
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Do people really think Isuzu is going to make a comeback? I would like to think so...GM keeping the brand alive with rebadging is a good sign...honestly the name doesn't hold a lot of water, so unless they plan a real comeback...it doesn't make sense to keep it around, even with rebadging.

    I don't expect to see it comeback, and with the dealership issues I have had, 3 closing on me, difficulties with repairs and coverage, I wouldn't buy another unless they came back with a unique, better than other vehicle (like the Trooper).
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    The reason the Isuzu brand "name doesn't hold a lot of water" is because Isuzu does not get credit for the great products it has produces for other brand names. Isuzu made the Chevy-GEO-Storm which was a fun little car with suspension from Lotus that out sold all the GM competition, people that had them loved them. Isuzu made the Duramax diesel inside the GM pickups. Isuzu made the Ascender and all its variations, within GM's design limitations, this is the best mid sized SUV ever offered by GM. They should be selling the Isuzu Dmax international version as a true Isuzu and the GM ones should be labeled as clones. ...The brand name is what they need to correct first.
    ..
    When the Japanese buy GM they will inherrit a lot of dealerships. Maybe they can let GM continue to exist as just Cadillac.
  • djweberdjweber Member Posts: 18
    Sorry, I imagine this has been covered before but couldn't find w/ a search. I can't find a Haynes, Chiltons, etc manual for my 1999. All books seem to stop at about 1996. Autozone tried to order me a manual, but what their computer spit out was some SUV Extreme Mods book. Is the $190 full shop manual my only option?

    I need to change an oxygen sensor and don't want to screw it up.

    Thanks
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    There are a lot of dealers that no longer carry Isuzu, perhaps a used shop manual can be had on the cheap.
  • petegospetegos Member Posts: 4
    Hi, I would love your opinions on this. I'm trying to decide between the above two used model Troopers. Each has ca. 40K mi. Each in VG shape. I have already a '01 TOD S Trooper. I haven't had any problems with it, either on TOD or anything else. I don't know if I need another 4WD vehicle: is there any reason NOT to get the TOD (or conversely, are there compelling reasons to get the 2WD instead of the TOD)? We feel more secure knowing the TOD is on when we drive in wet weather, but this is SoCA so it's not so often. I'm thinking more about maintenance costs/troubles later on, or if the TOD wears the drivetrain out faster or other parts (e.g., tires, etc). Thanks for your input!
  • silverghostsilverghost Member Posts: 154
    2WD versions seem to get better fuel mileage (19-20 hwy for my "01 LS). At nearly $3.00/gal., a lot of folks view that as a 2WD advantage.
  • starisstaris Member Posts: 1
    My 99 Trooper has been thunking going from 2nd to 3rd. I overhauled the tranny ($1600) but that didn't help. Did replacing the transmission mode switch and ATF do the trick for you?
  • df2000df2000 Member Posts: 60
    "Is the $190 full shop manual my only option?"
    No, it is not. There IS much better option avalable, trust me, look around syber space.
  • silverghostsilverghost Member Posts: 154
    The complete ATF flush fixed my problem, but the symptoms you describe sound like somthing different. From my reading, a malfunctioning mode switch, or sensor, can cause hard shifting. If the fluid level and condition is good, and if you're confident that your mechanic did the overhaul properly, the mode sensor would be the next thing to check. You will have to remove it, pull it apart and clean it, but it's apparently a pretty easy fix if you don't mind lying on your back and getting your hands dirty. Shoot me an email and I'll send details and photos.

    Dave
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