Isuzu Trooper

sbcooke · August 2005

I replace the solenoids on the front axle myself. 4wd engages, but I basically have 4wd hi again...it binds on pavement, not as bad as before, but still binds. I need to figure out if I have an electrical problem or just the transfer case is bad?

4wd high is pretty good. I got the rears in some mud and floored it. No spin with the fronts kicking in, just go right away.

madmechanic19 · August 2005

I love my trooper. Its what I took my drivers test in, and I payed a little under a thousand for it. For the most part its been a great suv, lasted longer than I thought it would. Now for the bad news. I was wondering if there was a good place to get parts from that won't cost me an arm and a leg. I had my radiator reworked and it was stolen by some crack head. Now my power and winter drive switches, back wiper switch, back defroster switch, antenna, and head unit have been stolen as well. I live in mississippi, and I have called all over this state and not a single junk yard has a trooper, anywhere.

coastie007 · August 2005

I will check my A/C today or tomorrow (supposedly it is going to be a hot one tomorrow) but I will try today and tomorrow to listen to it both days and if so get back with you guys and let you know. What is this I hear about a "shim" which could be a quick fix to my solution? It is very possible that it was overcharged, and I would hope that is the case as it would be a cheap fix (10 buck kit at walmart).

On my crappy gas mileage . . . I have been staying at 70 mph now trying my gas mileage out to see how it works, I'll keep you all informed on it in the next week or so to see what the results wield. Next fill up I am going to do the whole premium fill up thing and leaving the battery disconnected for 30mics after I fill it up and then see what happens. Do you think that could really help my mileage a little bit?

As far as getting rid of my car goes . . . I have been seriously considering it. I could get one for cheaper insurance, cheaper on gas too and a smaller engine which means less to work on. But man I have gone through 2 other cars already in my short 24 year tenure on this planet. And I have seen this truck prove to me it's worth and value. Besides the fact that she is a TANK, in terms of safety, I just love her too much to get rid of her. The only problem I had was that the seal went out on my tranny, all the oil drained out of it and burnt the tranny completely. Isuzu dealership where I was (enroute to Cali from Indy, some stroke of luck put one of the few remaining dealerships about 5 miles from my break down point!) Isuzu had my BRAND NEW tranny there and installed within 6 days, paid for the $800 transport of my truck from illinois to Cali and paid the $500 rental car fee to get me the rest of the way while my truck got fixed. That's customer service you can't find elsewhere. So I'll stick it out a little longer and see what happens.

bsmart1 · August 2005

may ge fixed by a fuel injector cleaning service. I was talking to a friend today about his Toyota Sequoia that had fallen to about 12 mpg. He did a lot of things to try to help it and finally gave up and took it to his Dealer. The dealer did a injector cleaning service on it and got him 5 mph improvement on the highway mileage!! He said it really surprised him b/c he hadn't noticed any decrease in performance of the engine while losing mileage. He said the engine has a little over 100K miles on it, and the service guy showed him all the gunk that came out of the injectors.

He was also surprised that he didn't notice any improvement in the engine's performance AFTER the injector cleaning, but the proof was in the mpg jump!!

unicon · August 2005

I purchased a 99 Trooper brand new and it's been great except for the fact that it sucks up a lot of oil and always has. A quart every 1000 miles or less. This issue was apparently resolved on the 2000 models. There have also been reports of engine failures as low as 75k on www.consumeraffairs.com

I hope mine lasts! I've run Mobil1 in it from the beginning.

superskeet · August 2005

Go to WalMart and get some CD2 Oil Detergent. It will fix your oil consumption problem. Fixed both of my '99 Troopers.

stever · August 2005

Unless someone has a Trooper parts link, the only thing I can think of is eBay or craigslist.com (there's one local to Jackson). Or maybe Memphis or NO or B'ingham are closer to you... heck, put a parts wanted blurb on all of them.

Steve, Host

serranot · August 2005

This is a classic symptom of the mode sensor failure. Let me know if you need help cleaning it and I can send photos and talk you through it. I have done it once and it solved my 2-3 shift problem.

Another way to find out if this is the problem is to watch the dash indicator lights when you shift. If the tranny selector lights jump in a random fashion rather than movesequentially, that's a big sign you have amode sensor issue.

Regrads,
Tom

acalandra · August 2005

I have a 2002 Trooper with 42K miles that was purchased in July of '02. The other day it started shifting hard almost like it was slamming in and out of gears. A quick trip to the local Isuzu dealer and it turns out to be a bad transmission range selector switch. Seeing as though the vehicle has low miles and and was only one month past the 3/50 warranty, I called Isuzu customer relations and explained the situation and that this was my fourth new Isuzu (hoping to get some good will). The customer relations person agreed that good will warranty coverage was for situations such as this and gave me the name of the service manager at the dealership telling me to have him ask Isuzu for assistance. The service manager calls me back later that day all defensive and said in no way should this person have given me his name because Isuzu has no good will warranty policy. He finally said he would try, but that he know Isuzu would do nothing. I then called customer relations back and the person sounded suprised at the result of my conversation with the dealer. He called the dealer and then called me back only to tell me it was out of his hands and that it was the zone rep's decision not to cover the repair. I understand that Isuzu is not obligated to do anything at this point, but I just feel as though it shows extremely poor customer relations to treat someone this way given that this is my fourth new Isuzu vehicle in the last 12 years, I am under on miles, and only one mont past the warrany period.
I'm kind of suspicious of the this dealer as well because when I called the dealer where I purchased the vehicle (which I don't typically use for service because it is further from where I live) their service manager advised me that he had very good luck with Isuzu in situations such as this. I just hope they stand by the 10/120 powertrain warranty should I ever need it.

madmechanic19 · August 2005

I have found all the things that I needed to get my trooper running. The only problem I am having with it right now is that it keeps overheating on me all the time. I have done everything to the engine that I could possible think of, but it still overheats. I think it might be the tranny, but I do not have the equipment to lift it up and get a good look. I think the front seal already has a leak, but I am not sure of that either. If anyone has any idea what else it might be, please let me know.

sbcooke · August 2005

What year? St. Charles Isuzu is good for new parts at 10% off.

I have researched parts and junk yards out of state were willing to ship parts to me. Shipping might up the cost, but try a web search for junk yards and call around.

acalandra · August 2005

I have seen some folks posting on here with some knowledge of how to clean / replace the range mode selector switch. I took a look under the vehicle, but am not really sure where the switch is. Any additional info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

unicon · August 2005

I feel your pain but you know that that's what always happens after the warranty goes out, something breaks. I had to replace my battery one month after my warranty expired. On my 99 Trooper the same selector switch went out as well. I think it cost $350 parts+labor, and since it wasn't officially part of the tranny, they said the powertrain warranty would not cover it.

bsmart1 · August 2005

I had a problem with my 97' Trooper overheating when the vehicle was not moving. If I came to a traffic stop and had to wait for a few minutes in the heat of summer, the temperature would quickly start climbing toward the HOT area on the gauge. It turned out to be a bad temperature sensitive clutch built into the fan blade assembly. I replaced the metal section built into the center of the fan assembly, and the problem was resolved!!!

silverghost · August 2005

If you are referring to the mode sensor, read back a few posts. In my post #10862, and Tom's post #10870, we BOTH offered to help some folks with this. If you will email me (link is in my profile), I will gladly send you photos and step-by-step instructions.

Dave

boxtrooper · August 2005

Goto an online classified section like cars.com and search for Isuzu Trooper under $1000, there are whole Troopers available for $250. There are 37 Troopers under $2000.

textopgun · August 2005

My 94 Trooper would not start yesterday. I tried jumping it with no luck. I replaced the battery still would start. the headlights, radio all work. I hear a clicking noise, but wont start. Does anyone have an idea where I should go from here? :confuse:

silverghost · August 2005

If the starter would not engage and turn when trying to jump start it, it might be a bad starter solenoid or ground cable. Just a guess. Hope it's not the starter, itself.

textopgun · August 2005

How do you determine if it is a bad solenoid or ground cable?

boxtrooper · August 2005

If it is a bad ground cable, clamp the jumpstart (-) cable to the engine directly bypassing the ground cable. NOTE: I am assuming the Trooper starter uses the engine block as ground same as nearly all vehicles.
..
You may also just have a poor connection in the big wires.

bsmart1 · August 2005

I think you mentioned hearing a SNAP when you tried to start the engine. If so, that is the starter solenoid pulling in to apply power to the starter. It sounds like a DEAD starter to me. :sick:

bsmart1 · August 2005

I've heard several of you talk of putting CD-2 in your oil to reduce 'burn off'. How's it working so far??

superskeet · August 2005

With CD2 Oil Detergent I've gone from using 1 qt every 500 miles to 1 qt every 2500 miles on both of my '99 Troopers. I ran one bottle in it and then changed the oil 2000 miles later. Ran another bottle on that oil change and went 3000 miles on it. Seeing constant improvement all along I'm now running my Trooper without the CD2 and it's going about 2500 miles before I need to add a quart. I plan on using the CD2 periodically to keep things clean.

textopgun · August 2005

Yes, SNAP. Do starters go without warning? The day before it was hard to start. It turned over slowly.

silverghost · August 2005

bsmart1 is dead on! The click was the sound of the solenoid actuating. I believe that a current draw or some such test can identify whether the starter itself is toast, but I'd put my money on that being your problem.

emiura · August 2005

Not sure what year your Trooper is, but try All Hyundai and Isuzu Auto Recycling.

http://allhyundaiisuzuparts.com/

unicon · August 2005

I just put some in my Trooper 99 as it's always burned oil. I'll report back later when I see some results.

Just replaced the brakes: Front pads, Rear pads and discs. It's an easy job. Have to remove the calipers to access pads. At 75k I still had between 1/8 to 1/4 of pad left.

wheels13 · August 2005

Your posting says doing a brake job was easy. How much work is it to get the rotors off the rear? Thank you

f4phantomii · September 2005

I have a 99 Trooper (3.5L) Auto with TOD. Bought it new. It certainly was hands down the most SUV for the money when we bought it. Other than perhaps a Toyota 4-runner, the Trooper was about the only SUV that you could drive right off the dealers lot and go off-road. It also seemed to be the only SUV we test drove that actually did something when you stepped on the gas. It does a phenomenal job towing my 5000lb boat! Even 6 years later, I'm still pleased with the purchase.

I change the oil and filter every 5k miles religiously. Starting around 50k miles....maybe even a few thousand miles after that, I started seeing some oil consumption. That was new to me. In the last 5k miles, its gotten to where I'm putting in a full quart every 1000 miles. A co-worker that has a Rodeo has mentioned a large amount of oil consumption as well.

I have been perplexed, because I've never seen the first wisp of smoke come out the tailpipe. I've put in so much oil that if the oil was leaking into the coolant, I'd know because it would be overflowing! And obviously there is no oil leaking on the ground anywhere. Recently, both my wife and I noticed that the Trooper seemed to have lost some of it's "zip". All these symptoms led me to believe that I had a ring that had gone bad and was losing compression. I was pretty annoyed at that since we don't even have 60k miles yet. I've tried a couple of the "seal replenishing" type oil additives to see if it improved the consumption problem. It only seemed to get worse.

After more reading here, I am glad to see that it appears to be a reasonably correctable problem, and not a more serious ring damage problem.

I plan on doing a compression test this weekend and I think that will tell the tale. If I see good compression across the board, I'll go directly to Wal-Mart and get the CD2 Oil Detergent that has been recommended here. I may start using the "drive clean" type oils. I may even use some Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner!

I've never been pleased with the fuel economy. My wife and I are both Engineers and have kept records of mileage at every single gas purchase. We've never seen the EPA 16/20 stickered. When gas prices started rising, I went back in the records all the way back to when it was new. I think the best mileage I ever saw was 17mpg. Now it mostly gets 13-14mpg, regardless of speeds, terrain, A/C on/off, etc. That is what it gets and that's all it's been getting for years. I'm going to clean the EGR and PCV hoses as best I can, along with a good fuel system cleaner, an ECM reset, and 93-octane fuel and see if there is any improvement.

As for the Air Conditioning, I've always thought it was under powered. Our Trooper is black, and I live in brutally hot coastal Georgia. We typically have mid-90's temps with high humidity, resulting in heat indexes of 110-115 for three months. Not good conditions for any cooling system. The A/C is, at best, adequate. It eventually cools down the inside, but it may take up to an hour if the interior has been heat soaked for several hours in the sun. Keep in mind that the interior of the Trooper is absolutely cavernous compared to most other mid-size SUV's. It's just a lot of volume to cool.

The only warranty work I've had is for a faulty sensor in the Evaporative Emission System. It was replaced, but I intermittently still get a Check Engine light. When I pull the OBDII code, it just says Evaporative Emission System Malfunction. I now wonder if it isn't related to the oil consumption problem.

I've not been pleased at all with the dealer service. Any time I've had the Trooper in for service, there has been damage to the vehicle. I took it to get a short in the trailer pigtail fixed. They removed the jack and lug wrench to get at the harness, but never put them back...just left them in the cargo area.

Another time, I had the A/C condensation back up into the passenger interior. I took it in, and the dealer claimed it wasn't a warranty item, just dirt in the drain tube. They charged me for the work to "clean" it, although having later looked at where the drain tube is located, I doubt it was dirty and they probably did nothing. I think the drain tube is too short, and condensation runs down the footwell and can leak in through a seam. I've added an extension to the tube and haven't had a single problem since. They had run one of the tire sidewalls against something and cut it up pretty badly. They claimed it was like that when we brought it in.

When I had the problem with the EES, they had clearly bumped some tool stand or piece of equipment against the spare tire cover, scratching it badly in multiple places. After several complaints to Isuzu, the dealer called back weeks later and offered to "wax out the scratches". These were major gouges in the plastic, not scratches in the finish!

That was the last time I took it in for service.

I've not had any issues with the transmission or 4WD system. I just recently replaced the original tires and two of them still had plenty of tread left. I rotate every 10k miles or so.

Those are my experiences! I hope to keep it at least 3-4 more years.

f4phantomii · September 2005

Well....to reply to my own post....

I did the compression test this afternoon. Results were favorable. All six cylinders registered between 170 - 180 psi. Pretty good I'd say, and certainly seems to help rule out a leaky ring, bent valve, or bad seal.

So while I had all the spark plugs out, I decided to do a major cleaning. I put Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner in each of the cylinders and am letting that sit overnight. I've had good results with it before. I usually let it sit and then vacuum out each cylinder with a wet/dry vac. I usually get some "black sand" type carbon material, plus it gets all the fluid out to prevent hydro-locking the engine!

I'm also going to run some motor flush through and hopefully that will help loosen some of the crud and open up the holes in the rings that seem to be the cause of the oil consumption problem.

Once the engine flush has run through, I'll drain the oil, and do an oil/filter change and put in some of the CD2 Oil Detergent that was recommended and replace all the spark plugs with new ones. I figured it was probably time to do so.

I couldn't find any "once a year" fuel injector cleaner at Wal-Mart. I'm trying some "Large Vehicle" fuel injector cleaner and I'll run that through maybe three or four fill-ups in a row. I'll also reset the ECM and start using the 93 octane to see if fuel economy improves at all.

Will report the results back here.

silverghost · September 2005

Let me be the first to thank you for that post. My very reliable '01 and I anxiously await the results :shades:

beer4704 · September 2005

That your first 150K will undoubtedly be better than your 2nd 150K. I am sure you can say that about any vehicle, though. Remember that the dealer base is shrinking and parts are very expensive once they start to go (ask me about replacing the starter and the mechanic having to drop the front exhaust to get at it!) I sold my 2000 with about 150K for a decent buck and haven't looked back. If there was a 2005 Trooper available, I probably would have bought one. I ended up with a new Pilot which is also terrific in a different way than the Trooper. Troopers are great, just watch as the miles climb. It can get expensive. Cheers to all!

boxtrooper · September 2005

Hello Isuzu,
..
With gasoline prices so high and diesel sulfur about to be so low, please bring out the fuel efficient Isuzu Diesel Troopers to the USA real soon.
..
Isuzu would have the market to itself with a high mpg Trooper. I looked up the mpg of the diesel Jeep and it was not that great, Isuzu can beat by it a wide margin and still provide the roomy Trooper with all it's capabilities.

34me · September 2005

i have an 89 trooper i need info on how to replace
the key ignition switch thanks

bradesp · September 2005

I'm looking to buy a used Trooper between 99'-02' I've heard the AC "blows" as in it doesn't put out enough cold air due to pooer design and/or under designed for the load of the vehicle.

Can anyone comment about their experience adn the model year you have with respect to the performance of your AC in HOT conditions? I live in NC where it stays hot and humid from June through September.

Thanks!

bradesp

troop2shos · September 2005

There's a lot of interior space to cool but I've found my '00 Ltd. does a good job in 100+ deg. F. heat with humidity - just make sure you have the recirculate switch depressed. If you don't buy the non rental / true LS or Ltd. models, adding window tint to the "S" will help.

sharktrooper · September 2005

I hate to bring bad news, but my experiment with CD-2 over the past 4,000 miles is not yielding the results I desired or that are reported elsewhere. I've been through two 2,000 mile oil changes (Mobil 1 5W-30 with CD-2 added) and I'm still adding a quart per 500-600 miles. Per f4phantomii's helpful posting, my next step will be to open up the plugs and apply some kind of combustion chamber cleaner, perhaps the Mopar variety. I'm not sure what else to try--either a different oil cleaner, more of it, or other more aggressive options. I'm assuming a $2K ring job will do the trick, but want to play all my other cards first. Not sure how much longer I can stand this. Unfortunately, for now, I can't endorse CD-2.

Any serious ideas or suggestions are appreciated. Running out of cards to play.

bsmart1 · September 2005

There has been a lot of discussion lately related to CD-2 oil additive; to reduce oil consumption in the 3.5L Troopers. I have new data to add to the discussion.

I decided to put CD-2 in my 01' S Trooper before making a trip to Florida last week. I put the CD-2 in a week prior to the trip, just to let it start 'soaking' in. The trip was going to be about 1100 miles each way, so I thought this would be a good time to test it out. I haven't been having 'oil burn' problems with this engine, but I thought it couldn't hurt to see what other effects it might produce.

I have experienced an mpg decrease over the last year or so, from 20 mpg highway to about 17.5 mpg. My best mpg was about 2.5 - 3 years ago at 21 mpg on the interstate to Nashville at about 70mph.

Driving speed and road conditions were pretty consistent for the complete trip, except for a spotty rain shower during the 5th tanks drive.

1st tank of gas I got 17.7 mpg
2nd tank of gas I got 18.5 mpg
3rd tank of gas I got 19.0 mpg
4th tank of gas I got 19.5 mpg
5th tank of gas I got 19.5 mpg
6th tank of gas I got 20.0 mpg (speeds were in town and 65 mph top speed)
7th tank of gas I got 19.5 mpg
8th tank of gas I got 20.0 mpg
9th tank of gas I got 20.0 mpg
10th tank of gas I got 20.0 mpg
11th tank of gas I got 20.0 mpg

Now each time I say a 'tank' of gas, does NOT mean a FULL tank of gas. As we made our way back home, I stopped about 1/2 full each time because I didn't know what the availability situation was going to be following Katrina. We did find gas at nearly every stop, but there was a couple of places that didn't have gas. In the Atlanta area gas was going for $5.60/gal.

On this trip of 2300+ miles, I 'burned' about a quarter to a half a quart of Mobil 1. I'd say that ain't bad for this engine duty.

I'm pleased with this performance and with CD-2.

Footnote: There is another CD-2 available now for high mileage engines. If you're not getting results with the original formula, you might try this instead.

bsmart

f4phantomii · September 2005

I must say, that is probably the one deficiency that my '99 Trooper has. I live in GA, also plenty hot and humid as it is in NC.

It's never been what I'd call a "cold" A/C, but it will cool down the interior. It just takes a while if it's been parked in the full sun for several hours at 95+ temps. My Trooper came standard with rear tint, so I'm uncertain if it helps or not....I guess it can't hurt.

Of course, I've not thought an automobile A/C has been "cold" since about 1995 when they switched to the ozone friendlier refridgerant.

I'd say based on my experience, on a good hot day, it takes approximately 10-15 minutes of the air on full blast and recirculating to cool the front seats down to a reasonable temp, and takes about 30-45 minutes to cool the whole interior down. After that, it certainly is capable of keeping the interior cool and comfortable the rest of the drive. Enough that my wife and I usually turn it to outside air, low fan speed, and turn it to a warmer temp so we aren't cold.

If you are one of those people who sleeps with your home Air Conditioning set on 65 degrees and break into a sweat rushing to answer the phone, you probably want to look for a vehicle with a beefier A/C system.

-Michael

f4phantomii · September 2005

I'd say the thing to do is a compression test like I did to rule out any serious mechanical problem.

If you do decide to try combustion chamber cleaner, here's some of my detailed notes on the procedure.....

The directions say to warm up the engine, and spray it in through the throttle body with the engine running. My problem with this is that it doesn't get distributed evenly through all the cylinders.

What I did was warm up the engine and stop it. While it was still hot, I *carefully* removed the coil packs and spark plugs. I sprayed equal amounts in all cylinders and let it sit overnight.

The next day, I rigged up a straw to my shop vac and used it to vacuum out the crud that was loosened as well as any standing cleaner remaining in the cylinders. Just to be sure, I cranked the engine for several seconds without the spark plugs in to expel anything that was remaining in the cylinders.

I then swabbed out each spark plug well to clean it out good as cranking the engine had thrown more carbon residue out.

I then put in the oil/engine flush, put the old spark plugs back in, and began trying to crank it.

I'll have to warn you that it is difficult to crank. It took me probably 10-12 tries of cranking several seconds before it finally caught and ran. There should be a cloud of smoke that comes out the tailpipe. But the idle should smooth out quickly and run normally.

I then disconnected the air intake hose from the throttle body and sprayed more cleaner in there with the engine running. More smoke out the tailpipe.

After 5-10 minutes, I shut it down, and do an oil/filter change. I also give the engine bay a good cleaning.....any combustion chamber cleaner that has gotten splashed or sprayed on other parts of the engine needs to be rinsed off, as it is very corrosive.

That's about it....but there are three important points to remember:

1. Try to get as much excess combustion cleaner out of the cylinders as possible. It will make it easier to start and reduces the chances you'll get fluid trapped in the cylinder and hydrolock the engine.

2. It's scary when it doesn't want to start....don't give up, but take it easy on the starter. Only crank it for 3-4 seconds at a time, and after a few attempts, give it a few minutes to cool down before trying again.

3. Make sure to do an oil change. Most likely some cleaner leaked down past the rings overnight and into the oil. In fact, if it did it's job and cleaned the clogged holes in the oil ring, it will drain through. You don't want to leave that stuff in your oil as it is pretty corrosive.

-Michael

silverghost · September 2005

Footnote -

If you have "Auto A/C" as I do in my '01 LS, there's no need to switch anything if it begins to get too cool, except the temperature adjustment. It switches to outside air on its own. I'm like you other guys - 95+ in Houston, and I keep mine at 72-74 and it does just fine. But even with the Light Silver Metallic paint and full factory tint, it does take the system a while to reduce the interior temp. After that, it maintains it pretty well. If you have kids / wives / or other button-punchers along for the ride, just press the "Auto" button when you get in to make sure it is, in fact, in "full auto" mode. It really is the most effective setting.

bsmart1 · September 2005

was corrected on the 00' - 02' models. They added an electric fan at the front of the radiator and these units do a much better job cooling the Trooper down than the 99' and earlier models. I have a 99' and an 01' and there is no comparison, the 01' will out cool the 99' hands down from the minute the vehicle is turned on!!

bawbcat · September 2005

I have a 98 Trooper with about 70k miles. Just recently the engine has started making a loud "knocking" noise when cold and idling. It almost sounds like a diesel. As the engine warms up, the noise goes away. I'm currently running 5W-40 full synthetic oil which has been in there for about 3500 miles. It has always had regular oil changes with full synthetic oil since I bought the truck at about 45k miles. Any ideas on what the problem might be?

superskeet · September 2005

Have you ever had the valves adjusted?

superskeet · September 2005

Sorry to hear the CD2 didn't do it for you. I've tried every other thing mentioned on this and any other forum and nothing else worked til the CD2. I recently had a mechanic that was familiar with the oil burning problems of the Troopers tell me that Lucas Oil Stabilizer also would fix the problem, but I have no first hand experience with it. Might be worth a try!

bawbcat · September 2005

No, I don't think the valves have ever been adjusted. I do probably need to get that done. Since the noise appeared suddenly though, I don't think that is the culprit.

bsmart1 · September 2005

I don't think the 98' 3.5L engine requires valve adjustments. The older troopers did have mechanical lifters, but I don't think that is the case on the newer motors.

cobbo · September 2005

Well, I've got a Black '01, and I live down in central Florida, where we have a different take on the concepts of heat & humidity...but I can tell you that I've never had a problem with the a/c - cools great, even with the black paint absorbing tons o' heat during the day. Best wishes,
-Cobbo

superskeet · September 2005

Yes, valve adjustment every 50k!

boxtrooper · September 2005

I have owned a 1984 Trooper 1.9L without Air Conditioning, and a 1995 Trooper 3.2L with Air Conditioning that was very cold and instant, actually getting A/C was one of the bigger reasons I sold the 1984 and bought the 1995, and the 95 A/C was very impressive. The 1995 was totalled so I bought a 2001 Trooper, which I still own. The 2001 A/C is adaquate, as good as most cars I've been in, but not as impressive as the 1995 Trooper's A/C.
..
I only buy light colored Troopers in anticipation that summer will always return. The 1984 was radar resistant beige (a champaign beige Trooper looks extra slow) because all the nicer colors were already sold. The 1995 was white with unpainted bumpers and no wheel flairs and the Power Package, I got lots of comments on how good it looked with just the OME suspension and A/T 245/75R16 tires. The 2001 is a sandy silver color with slightly darker bumpers and wheel flairs, I have 265/70R16's on it because the flairs make the tires look smaller. With the OME suspension medium stiffness it rides wonderfully. My wife likes to ride in the Trooper with the windows open, she has a minivan and only its front windows open significantly.

Isuzu Trooper

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