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Comments
Is this just life with an (underpowered) Trooper? The clutch was replaced 2 years ago, and seems to be OK. I've driven manuals before.
I need new tires and was thinking of upsizing from 245/70/16 to make first gear taller and improve acceleration. But today I discovered that 2nd-gear starts are possible, and can make acceleration much faster and smoother. Anyone else do 2nd-gear starts on a regular basis? Will it kill my clutch?
Went on about a 5-hour trip this weekend. Started out with a full tank of gas, and Trooper drove normally.
After getting down to about 2/3 tank, the surging would start around 3000RPM. If I backed off the throttle, it would behave normally again.
After about 1/2 tank left, it began surging at any engine speed above 2000RPM.....I couldn't pass other vehicles or accelerate hardly at all. If I stayed below 2000RPM, it drove normally.
After getting to my destination, I stopped and bought a new fuel pump at AutoZone for $80 and a new inlet filter screen for another $15.
I drained the gas tank. Luckily, Isuzu has a handy drain bolt on the bottom of the tank.
I then removed the skid plate, and then unbolted the tank from it's supports. Took probably 1.5 hours to unbolt the skid plate and tank. Then had to remove the half-dozen or so hose connections and three or so electrical connectors to completely free the tank.
Once the tank was loose, I took the screws holding the fuel pump assembly out and pulled it out of the tank. The inlet filter screen looks like a tea bag at the bottom of the pump. It was caked with an extremely fine brown residue. After I let it dry, it was pretty clear that it was probably inhibiting fuel flow.
I also emptied out about 12-oz of fuel left in the tank that didn't come out through the drain into a bucket. It contained about 2-ounces of a really sludgy water. I used a rag to really clean out the tank before putting the new fuel pump and inlet filter screen. Took me probably 1.5 hours to put the tank back.
Overall, probably a 4-hour job and it fixed the problem. Not only that, but it actually feels peppier than it has in the last couple of years.
-Michael
I need your help. My vehicle, which I love, is not running the way it should.
Let me try to explain my situation...
1. About one month ago I took my Trooper in to have the Tranny Flushed and grease the drive shaft (enter jokes here) zerk fitting.
2. Later that evening I power washed my engine. I first sprayed Simple Green on the engine, let it soak for a few minutes and then sprayed clean. I am very careful not to spray up close with high pressure water. I stood back five to six feet and let the water work.
3. Over the next few days, I noticed the car would shudder when I was in overdrive at low RPM's. For example, as I would climb a slight incline, the car would shift through the gears as it normally would. But as soon as it hit the final shift, it would begin to vibrate. It doesn't do it all the time, however, when it does it's typically in OD and low RPMs (around 35-50 MPH).
4. Took it dealer. They drove it and it performed flawlessly. They checked the codes and verifyed the tranny was full. Returned the vehicle to me with no fix. Only positive thing is they documented the "issue".
5. Driving around town...still acts up. I'm now watching/listening for any sort of sign that I can pass on to the dealer. I now notice that the Trooper is making new noises. Again, high gear (Overdrive) and low RPMs, the Transmission surges and groans (for a lack of better words). It sounds like the torque converter is kicking on and off. I also notice at various times, a sound coming from the engine compartment. It sounds like a muted locomotive horn. Not sure what the heck that is.
6. Take it back to the dealer. Again they drive it and nothing. Frustrated, I asked the Service Manager to take a ride with me. It doesn't do it. I drop him off...on the way home it acts up and start to shudder/vibrate. Just my luck.
7. This past weekend I run 1/2 can of Seafoam through the motor (about 20 miles worth of driving). I change the oil/filter and add Full Syn Mobil 1. I change the air filter and top off other fluids. Start it up and it does seem to idle a little smoother. Take it out for a test drive. Runs good and strong. Decide to head home...car starts to shudder again. It also makes that annoying sound from the tranny/torque convert and the muted locomotive horn. "It's" still there.
So...that brings us to today. It's still acting up. I'm not sure which way to turn.
I need your help and advice...What do you guys think is going on?
Your feedback is greatly appriciated!!!
I too am looking at all the variable that have changed since it started acting up. The two major ones are the Tranny flush and engine wash.
BTW...I didn't spray under the engine. Only the bottom side of the hood and the "top" of the motor compartment. Just wanted to wash the dirt/dust off.
Last thing...it's a 4WD.
Thanks for taking your time!
I can understand why off-roaders might like the super-short 1st gear. But it's a nuisance in normal driving. Perhaps with taller tires, such as 265/75/16, the gearing will be closer to optimal for normal driving.
If anyone with a stick shift has experience with different size tires and how this affects driving, I'd be interested to hear it.
So I have some transmission guy that wouldn't work on it until I fixed the electrical problem (replaced the actuator) slated to take a look. I am going to bet he suggests a rebuild. Not sure if it is worth it? My worry is reliability, if I go on a 4wd vacation I want it running well, right now I have no confidence the TOD system may not just bind and explode someday?
My fronts seem to bind when backing up on initial startup in 2wd sometimes as well? I am not sure what this is. I am very diligent about replacing differential fluids. If I idle for a minute and turn the wheels a little it doesn't seem to happen? Perhaps it is a cold fluid issue in the front differential? Could be wear in the diff? My 4wd lockup is definitely in the transfer case. I only have 40k but have put some decent 4wd miles on my truck...I cannot imagine the GM (I think Corporate?) differential in the front would wear out, so I am not sure what is causing it.
I think I will get it fixed, but I am not in a hurry.
I am considering new springs, but I have the above 4wd issue that needs to be resolved before I spend any additional money on upgrades.
I sometimes just drive up my front lawn over the curb just to see the truck sitting mostly level with all wheels at different heights, but all touching the ground. That is the key to 4wd...having 4 wheels on the ground.
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Why not go all the way, there's a supercharger for the 3.5L that costs something like $2800 and gives more torque at lower speed.
http://www.arbusa.com/coil_springs.htm
http://www.arbusa.com/Nitrocharger.htm
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The higher you lift the worse your MPG, not a good 4wd if you can't get there and still have some fuel left for fun off road. With the OME suspension you will enjoy the nice ride on your way to the trails better than any other set.
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IMHO, the best offroad setup for performance and good looks would be the OME medium or stiff rear coil springs and shocks and sway away torsion bars up front and 285/75R16 Bridgestone Dueler AT/Revos which are 33" (No need for mudders, unless you never drive on road and all of your affroad is very loose mud, mudder tires don't do well on road in rain or snow, except rare deep fluffly snow maybe), no spacers needed. I think spacers make the 4x4 rig look like a hack job compared to taller springs that may allow more wheel travel.
I'll know more about the mpg results after installing my 'gizmo' ,......... tomorrow.
Being fairly ignorant and too lazy to research my owners book...is this legit? Anyone....? Bueller...?
Thanks
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I ran a set of Revos through a very muddy (10" deep or so) off road trail and never slipped a tire. I was being carefull not to worry my wife and kids who were aboard for their first serious off road "Car Hiking" as my kids called it.
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It would be great if you can buy both TKOs and Revos and test them both then report back. Kind of expensive for such an experiment.
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Check out TireRack for best tire comparisons I can find:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=ORAT
The 'gizmo' is called a vortex generator. It is a totally passive device that you install in the intake air hose between the mass flow meter and the throttle body. The idea is to improve fuel/air mixture and cause the computer to 'lean' out the fuel a bit.
Does it work?? Yes, but not as well as I had hoped. I've only driven 'city' miles since installing it, so I don't know what the highway mpg affect is going to be.
I can report a solid 1 mpg improvement in city mileage so far. I'm not sure the computer has finished its adjustments. The improvement in performance off the line is slightly noticable, nothing to write home about. It was recommended to disconnect from the battery for about an hour after installing the vortex generator. I did not do that, but may now.
This device was found on Ebay and is very inexpensive at the time.
After I make my next 'road trip' I'll post the mpg results for that type of driving.
Most of the additional things they push on un-aware customers are to enhance their sales, not meet your required maintenance schedule. This is part of the program put out by the chain management... IMHO they almost border on fraud the way they push their analysis of the manufacture's ROUGH service schedule as THE service schedule for vehicles.
I would probably not do the Power Steering unless it is showing some signs that the service is needed. I might consider the rear diff service if it has been 30-50,000 miles since you had this done.
So, I'd say it wasn't a BAD investment. Anxious to see how much difference it makes in highway mpg.
I am now being told that it was a lack of oil, though I had it changed 5,000 miles ago and have done all required service. 1) Is there any recourse against Isuzu/dealer (has there been a re-call etc.)? The dealer mechanic tells me it is $7000-$7700 for a new engine (of course I will get a 2nd opinion)but that he is willing to pay me $200! Since the ski rack and tires/wheels are worth more than this-I'm not sure what to do-I think the value is in the $6,500 range. Even with a re-built engine installed, is this worth it?
When I purchased it, I brought it to the ISUZU dealer.
They told me this vehicle is in good shape, maybe never off-road before. Howerver, there is something flaws:
1. the power steering pump leaking;
2. engine oil leaking;
3. need to change the CV-boot;
4. frant bearing loosing.
For prob 1: I rebuilt the power steering pump and it stopped leaking. The power steering system works well, but sames the power steering wheel doesn't stay stable at the center point. A little loosing.
For prob 2:I changed the engine oil cooler gasket, it stopped leaking.
For prob 3: I changed all the four CV-boots, and no whimper
while I make a turn.
For prob 4: I paid 265$ to fix it.
But after I changed CV-boots, there are some new problem come out.
1. Sometimes "buzz" when I hit the accelerator, after a little while it goes away. This comes out especiallly after I turn right.
2. Sometimes the brake shakes, especiallly after I turn on the engine and start to shift transmission.
Some tech. told me the "buzz" comes from the muffler, something loosing inside the muffler. About the brake, may need a bleeding. (when I pull out the balljoint to take off the cv boot, the arms flipped out the brake pad assembly. Maybe this cause the air into the vacuum pipe.)
I am unsure of previous service and I am only at 92K right now, but I am thinking I should probably do some maintenance soon as I plan to keep this thing around for awhile.
What would you recommend? (any other fluids, belts, flushes, battery etc)
I figure spark plugs, and change transmission fluid but beyond that I am unsure of what I need to do, should do, or only do if it really needs it.
Also should I try to find a local mechanic that will put in parts I buy, or would I be better off taking it to the dealer?
I recommend doing a brake fluid flush (add new fluid and bleed brakes till the new fluid comes out at each wheel) every year or two, since the ability to stop is important to me. The brake fluid flush helps prevent rust and preserve seals in the brake system.
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I highly recommend the OME shocks from http:\\www.ArbUSA.com for a comfortable ride and greater control even on bad bumps. The OME shocks seem to last a very long time.
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Use a local machanic especially one you trust and it helps if they have worked on Isuzus before. The local mechanic will be less expensive and get the job done with less waiting than a dealer. Dealers are needed for warrantee work.
There is no logical or sound financial reason to put that much money into your Trooper. However, if you are emotionally attached to it, go for it.
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Consider a used 2001 or 2002 Trooper, or a 2004 Axiom or Rodeo with the direct fuel injected engine which has more power and more MPG. Put your used Trooper on Ebay for a while and see if you get a good bid.
Thanks ST
SYJ
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Its always best to maintain rather than respond to failure.
Toni Janda
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_fueladditives.asp
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=54
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Install a clean air filter or a K&N replacement air filter the kind that fits the stock filter box easier breathing helped out power and less hesitation too.
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=33-2064
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You could have spark plugs that need changing or spark plug wires. It is very easy to take out spark plugs on a 1995 Trooper, so take one out to inspect it. A good working spark plug will be clean and dry and probably a tan color. If you decide to change plugs and/or plug wires consider a kit from http://www.directhits.com/contact.html ask for a complete kit with low resistance wires and non-resistor plugs, your performance will be better in a couple ways: 1.) smoother running and much more torque especially at higher RPMs good for passing or towing. 2.) quicker response to your request for power - less hesitation. Your MPG will go up very slightly if you are a gentle driver or more if your MPG now is low because you are an agressive driver using those top RPMs often. Your engine computer will re-time your ignition a little more advanced, so it is important to reset the computer after you install the DirectHits. I had a 1995 Trooper and went from 9.9mpg towing to 11.2mpg towing, and my normal mpg went up about 1mpg.
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Other modifications I enjoyed on my 1995 Trooper include the OME suspension rear coil springs and all four shocks.
Mine was doing almost exactly the same thing, only it got worse the less fuel was in the tank. I replaced the inline filter and it didn't make any difference. There is also a filter screen on the fuel pump located inside the fuel tank.
I removed the fuel tank, and replaced both the fuel pump and the inlet filter screen. The pump was about $80 and the inlet filter screen was $15. I'm glad I paid the extra $15 to get the filter screen. I almost didn't.
When I took it out, it was pretty filthy and was clearly impeding fuel flow. It might have just been the filter that was causing the problem, but might as well change the fuel pump while I was in there.
It took me about half a day to remove the tank, replace the pump/filter, and replace it.
Now my Trooper drives like it was new.
-Michael
Then, I noticed that when I would start the truck up and start driving, the back wheels on the TOD display would flash for awhile, and then go to a steady glow. It would do this even if I hadn't used TOD recently. As time went on it took longer and longer to get the steady glow, and finally it started taking so long the red check light would flash.
When I hit the TOD button, the red check light goes out and the TOD functions normally. Then, when I turn the button back off again same problem -- flashing back wheel lights and eventually the red check light.
Help!!!