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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    This is what I experienced with my 99' Performance Package 4X4 Trooper when I 1st purchased it. I typically got 12-13 mpg in city driving, and about 16-17 mpg on the highway. Over last couple of years I've tried several things to improve the performance and mileage of this vehicle. Some have worked and some have not. What I'm about to share with you are the things that DID work! Are you ready for this??

    OK, here goes........

    I installed a 750 ohm resistor in series with the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor which shifted the timing of the CPU. This change provided the most immediately noticable difference as far as engine 'power' is concerned. I could feel a difference in the way the engine performed, and how the engine responded to the gas pedal. MPG was improved by about 0.5 mpg city and highway.

    I used CD-2 oil treatment in the engine to clean out the 'sludge' and carbon deposits in the block and ports. The jury is still out on this item.

    I increased tire size to 265 70R 16's which resulted in about 0.5 mpg city and highway. Not actually a mpg change, but more miles traveled per gallon of fuel used because of the circumference of the tire. Gotta watch out for those radar guns though!!

    I installed a vortex generator into the air intake hose and improved mpg by about 1 mpg city. This one had the most noticable impact on mpg and seemed to improve performance and the 'feeling of power' increase slightly.

    I installed a K&N air filter and switched to 92 Octane fuel resulting in about 0.25 mpg city, and highway.

    I consistently get 15 mpg in city driving now, and I'm pleased with that result. I haven't made a highway trip in this Trooper since installing the vortex generator, but plan to make one this weekend. I'll report the results afterward.

    I have made some of these same changes on my 01' Trooper, but I seldom drive it, so I can't report the same details on it. I will report highway mileage results on it later. :D
  • troopernewbietroopernewbie Member Posts: 60
    I'm considering selling my '98 Trooper. It's an early '98 S without TOD. I'm wondering what price I can expect. It's in very good shape with typical wear for it's 87K miles - a few minor dings, some chipped paint on bumpers/fender flares. Interior looks nearly new. Timing belt done, new shocks, new Michelins. It's absolutely been the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned.

    What's a reasonable selling price?
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    OK, as promised I just got back from an 800+ mile road trip in my 99' Trooper and the results are in on the vortex generator mpg impact.
    Well, not quite what I hoped, but better than I've ever gotten before in this vehicle. 19 mpg average for the trip. This was in various conditions from dry and clear to misty rain and wet roads. Driving about 72 mph consistently and through the rolling hills of western Missouri and Arkansas.
    The one thing I did notice....when on cruise, the transmission seldom has to kick down out of overdrive to make the hills now. There's a feeling of power that has not been there in the past. Sooo....decide for yourself if you want to spend 25 bucks for the gizmo available on ebay.
    I don't regret it.
    Happy Trooping!!! And Happy Thanksgiving. Enjoy the holiday with your families!!
  • huntintrooperhuntintrooper Member Posts: 1
    My 93 Trooper ls has a snapring that pops off when using 4 wheel drive. May pop off at any given time. It is autolocking hubs. This is the snapring that goes on after the locking hub is put in place. Why would this keep coming off? Is there a bushing or is the shock bad causing the independent suspension to flex too far one way or another causing the snapring to come off? This is my first trooper I need some help. Do they have an aftermarket assy. to take place of the snapring? Thanks for any help. :cry:
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You may want to look at our TMV new car prices, used car pricing, used car values at Edmunds.

    tidester, host
  • geelonggeelong Member Posts: 3
    This website is advertising workshop manuals for Trooper + on CD for 20 Euros: http://www.datamanuals.net/isuzucomp.htm. Has anyone had any experience with them?

    Thanks
  • beer4704beer4704 Member Posts: 46
    I sold my 2000 S Trooper in May and p/u up a loaded Pilot. Different animal all together, but better suited for my purpose. I put about 150K on my Trooper and was generally pleased. Very tough, very tight and always fun to drive. If Isuzu would have updated, I would have bought another one in a flash. Troopers are really good value for the money. Just be ready to run them awhile as re-sale is terrible. After 100K or so, replacement parts can be very expensive. Good luck to all!

    Hey Paisan, what did you end up buying!
    Cheers to all! :)
  • greentroopgreentroop Member Posts: 3
    Hello from New Member

    Thank you to all who have posted on this list. I read a lot of your comments before buying a 2002 Trooper with 65k miles.

    So far I am very happy with my new toy. From the comments on this board, I think I know the downside to owning one of these "orphans", whose parent company may be fading from the scene.

    It looks like most of the Troopers are pretty solid and reliable, but there are a few lemons. Hope I got one of the good ones.

    I am gonna fix the suspension and tires first because this thing rides like an old truck. While shopping, I drove others that rode much better.

    Cheers, :)
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    greentroop, Welcome to the board. No need to worry about Isuzu, they are doing great financially. They might even get back into the car market eventually. I am hoping that Isuzu will start to sell diesel SUVs and pickups and cars after the USA low sulfur diesel fuel requirements come into effect in the later part of 2006.
    ..
    I highly recommend Old Man EMU (OME) suspension kits for the Trooper. Get the firm suspension set of rear springs and shocks for all four wheels. I have used OME on two Troopers so far, both were excellent. The firm version is still very soft for little bumps because they are progressive rate springs and prograssive rate shocks. If you get a front winch bumper then get aftermarket SwayAway front torsion bars as well.
    http://www.arbusa.com/old_man_emu_suspension.htm
    ..
    Good tires make a huge difference too. I have been very happy with the Bridgestone Dueler AT/Revos for and AT tire and the Yokohama Geolander G051 for a M/S tire both offer firm ride control and excellent traction, the REVOs are better when max traction is needed and very quiet for an AT tire, the G051 are a little quieter because it is not an AT tire and lighter for on road use and fuel economy. The new tire from GoodYear sounds really nice too.
    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=HAS
    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=ORAT
    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Dueler+H%2FL+Alenza- &partnum=67TR6HLALNZOWL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&place=6
    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Fortera+TripleTred&par- tnum=67TR6FORTTT&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&place=21
    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=LTX+M%2FS&partnum=67SR- 6LTXOWL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&place=28
    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Geolandar+H%2FT-S+G051- &partnum=67SR6GEOHTSOWL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&place=33
    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Dueler+A%2FT+Revo&p- artnum=67SR6ATREVOWL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&place=35
  • greentroopgreentroop Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the encouragement, Boxtrooper. I'll be on the phone to ARB tomorrow to discuss Old Man Emu suspension parts.

    I decided to buy a used car so it would be paid for, and then mod it to my satisfaction.

    My driving will be mostly highway with mild to moderate off-road occasionally. I live in Eastern Washington, where there are mountains, and four definite seasons. My previous car was a late model Volvo with plastic air dam in the front. I got really tired of scraping the ground-effect fairings on curbs and rocks and bottoming out if I went on the slightest rough road. I got to thinking about my '53 Willys wagon that I had in college
    and decided to go for something similar with room to haul a piece of furniture or some bikes in the back.

    I'd prefer to keep one set of tires on the Trooper year round, and I want to be able to drive a few hundred miles to Seattle and back with good road handling and low noise.

    So here are two questions for you or other readers with experience: Do you think the Sway Away torsion bars add anything if you don't have a lot of extra weight from a winch or bull bars in the front of the Trooper? Is there anything other than new EMU shocks that I should do to the front suspension of the Trooper for good on/off road handling and ride?

    Should I stay with standard size tires (245/70 X 16), or go oversize. If oversize, how much and why?

    And, yes, I did a search of the forum and read everything here about installing bigger tires. I am suspicious that most people put on larger tires because they look cool. The most informative statements I found about oversize tires are that they look cool, that they float better in sand or soft ground, and that they also float in snow (which you don't want to do because it decreases traction). I don't recall seeing comments about how larger tires change the ride or handling on pavement. (Oh yeah, you get slower acceleration and stopping because of the greater mass of the tire.) But how does it feel when you drive it?

    So, I'm definitely going to upgrade my suspension, then decide if it's "time to re-tire".

    Thanks,
    Greenie :)
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    Oversize / taller tires provide increased ground clearance plus putting more rubber on the road at the expense of increased rolling resistance / fuel economy, spreading out the contact patch losing more lbs. / sq. in. of tire loading for better snow performance, gear ratio change, higher center of gravity, etc.
    I run 255/70x16 B'stone Dueler A/T Revo's which increased the ground clearance by only a 1/2" & wouldn't cause an issue with my wife climbing in...really depends on what your needs are. I run 35 / 38 psi F/R & the Revo's are not harsh under the Rancho 9000 shocks at the 5 setting.
    Besides the suspension upgrades, I would make sure all of the fluids have been changed, plugs, pcv valve & especially the EGR induction service - including removing deposits around the intake butterfly valve to insure it closed properly if it hasn't been done with the mileage reported.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    IMHO, the bigger tires look a lot nicer if you have the plastic wheel well flairs. I went with the 265/75R16 Geolander G051 because they were light weight for their size, and I think there is a direct relation between tire weight and MPG.
    ..
    Other than looks, the bigger size tire does provide a bit more truck-like ride, firmer, quicker steering response, bigger bounce over small bumps etc.. But the difference is not huge and you can get the firmer ride from the smaller tire by running it at higher pressure.
    ..
    If you want the best fuel economy get a street only rib type 245/75R16 tire of the lightest wieght you can find.
    ..
    If you want the best offroad while still being quiet and good handling on the road with decent stopping power and ice performance get the REVOs. Get a larger size like 265/75/16, 275/70R16 or even 285/75/16 will fit, the larger diameter and more weight takes away MPG. I think the Trooper brakes are excellent and can stop you well even with the heavier tires. Note that there is a truck tire study on the internet somewhere that concludes that more tread or more agressive tread reduces MPG also. Note also that there is a P265/75R16 REVO tire that has one less steel belt and less tread depth than the LT version which makes it lighter for better MPG.
    ..
    If you want a compromise between the two above, quieter than REVOs just as good on road, and a competant but not terrific off road tire try the G051s in a 265/70R16 for a little bigger look without much MPG hit.
    ..
    For everything the G051s give you but even more quiet and perhaps a little better on road ice performance try the Bridgestone Dueler Alenza, but these cost more than G051s.
    ..
    Then there's the unknown new tire from GoodYear. It looks like a SUV sized version of their very successful minivan tire. This one has the snow flake on the side because it neets that snow tire traction requirement.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Guys, I posted a question about TOD problems in the Isuzu Maintenance & Repair topic. Didn't want to list the same question this this topic, but did want to mention it here in hopes that more people would see it in the Maint/Repair topic. Thanks!
  • greentroopgreentroop Member Posts: 3
    Many thanks to boxtrooper and troop2shos for all your helpful tips. I am checking out all the info on tires and shocks and stuff and will report back on the results.

    Greenie :)
  • cabargcabarg Member Posts: 1
    Question, Was your transmission slipping in all gears or just the first gear... My 2001 trooper slips only in 1st gear if I do a quick start??? any suggestions...thanks, ca
  • dononedonone Member Posts: 1
    My 1999 Trooper with auto tranny, limited slip rear, winter button, etc, has just had the bottom 2 wheel lights come and blink on the Trooper's message board. At times there will be a "check" message blink below this. I just had some motor work done, and the battery was disconnected. A year ago I had all fluids replaced front and rear in the tranny system by a certified dealer, and the thing drives just fine---no difference than before the motor work was done. On start-up the wheel lights will come on and not blink for a bit---same with the "check" light. However, after a bit of driving on they all come again.

    I'm obviously very interested in what you all have to say about possible problems here, as I'm still driving the Trooper and assuming it might be idiot light problems. Not long ago I had another message come up stating my brakes were gone and to get off the road---turned out to be a glitch in the messaging!

    Thanks in advance all,

    Donone
  • rmcgxrmcgx Member Posts: 1
    Any suggestions on how to get the hood open when the cable refuses to do so? When the release lever is fully opened there's about 2 inches of cable exposed. No amount of pushing or pulling on the cable will trip the latch.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I understand that you may be able to access the brake mechanism by removing the front bumper. I don't think it's very easy to do and you have to be really careful that you don't damage anything (like severing AC lines, cables, etc). If anyone has any experience, please jump in!

    tidester, host
  • makayemakaye Member Posts: 81
    Maybe you can detach the cable from the lever and just pull on the cable directly?

    You may also have someone - gently - push down on the hood above the latch while simutaneously pulling on the lever or cable.
  • fishcofishco Member Posts: 1
    Did you use the cd2 red or black?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Did you ever get a response or find out why your trooper had this problem, as I am experiencing it myself on my '94 Trooper. The oil light blinks and the oil pressure guage flickers at the same time. It happens so fast that I do not see how it could be the engine itself, but before a start changing sending units, I wonder if you or anyone else would know what is up? Thanks
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    At the risk of destroying the cable itself, and only if you can see part of the cable either by the front latch or from underneath. You can take a metal rod,about 1/2 inch diameter and long enough to reach the cable and stick out so you can get a grip on it with a tool, saw a slot in to it at one end wide enough and deep enough to slide the cable inside. Then insert rod at visible cable(near latch is best) and turn rod in clockwise or counterclockwise direction until the latch pops. Generally this will work as long as the inner cable is still hooked to latch mechanism. It WILL destroy the cable so only do this if you are prepared to replace the cable. Fire Departments carry these for car fires. Good luck.
  • countrylovercountrylover Member Posts: 1
    When I start my 87' isuzu trooper the motor is running at fulls speed. I've attempted lowering the idle thru the carberator by loosing/tightening the screw but to no avail. Any recomendations? While I burn the engine out by driving it at this speed?
  • mbigginsmbiggins Member Posts: 3
    Well I bought this 94 trooper for $120 drove it a couple times. There seems to be a problem with the tranny. I drove it one day it seemed like it kept accelerating. Drove it the next day it did not want to down shift like it was stuck in gear. There is no warning lights on at all. Havent had time to take to a shop yet. Any idea what problem could be.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Hello,
    I've been away from the Internet for a week, and no new posts here! So please start posting.
    ..
    I drove 2000 miles with no torubles, about 17 to 18 mpg highway since it was in the frozen North and that lowers MPG.
    ..
    Anybody getting one of those welder/alternator things to install in your Trooper for Christmas?
    ..
    Anybody doing a air conditioner pump to air compressor conversion for Christmas?
    ..
    Merry Christmas
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Quick thanks to all who have volunteered information and support in our mutual quest to care for our trucks. Happy Holidays to all!!
  • elctpkelctpk Member Posts: 3
    hi all....well i bought a 96 trooper for myself for my xmas gift(on the 22nd) and i have a lot of ?s for all you you...it has a anti theft thing on it..and it blinks..and i got it to go off today..the horn beeped..but i dont have a remote for it...is there one and also where can i buy one at?...next i have read some forms..and i would like to get new shocks for it any susgestions...and also every where i look it says..0 to 1" lift..i have no lift in it so?would that work..i was looking at jc whenty and found a pair of 9000...there are 86 a pice..do they really make that much of a differance?,,also what can i do to make it have better perforance..faster,better on gas...what would you do to it...is my ?,,,i just ordered nerf bars(black)..bra...but any susgestions i would like thanks all..and i am glad to be apart of this trooper group.great suv and from what i have read a great bunch of people
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Shocks. Old Man EMU shocks from ARB. www.arbusa.com. Do a search on this board. Best shocks going in my opinion. There are resellers such as 4x4connection.com and summitoffroad...they will all match prices if you call, at least that has been my experience.
  • makayemakaye Member Posts: 81
    Congratulations on your Trooper. They are great vehicles. I'm on my third.
    There are really two types of shocks available -hydraulic twin-tube styles w/ or w/o low pressure gas (to prevent oil foaming) and a monotube high pressure gas shock. Rancho 9000s and the Old Man Emu are twin tube style shocks. People have and love both. I had the 9000s on my Trooper. They work well. However, the low speed bouncing is not well controlled, enough for me, with a twin-tube or low pressure gas shock - say going over a speed bump or dip in the road. I recently went with the KYB MonoMax (mono tube, high pressure gas shock) which is a Bilstein style shock. Slightly stiffer than most twin-tube shocks, softer than a Bilstein but excellent control and still compliant for off-road use. They are also around $50 a shock. Easy to install on a Trooper. To get a Rancho 9000 with the same level of control makes them hard as a rock over big bumps. For me, the 9000s were excellent flying over a rutted dirt road. Couldn't feel a thing, like floating on air. When going slow, bumping up to a stiff setting gave excellent control. For me, just wasn't the best overall - if one included on road use. If one looks at a some of the OEM upgrade suspensions, they are using monotubes. The real nice thing about Old Man Emu (OME) is they have a completely matched suspension system specifically for the Trooper. You can search again for OME info in this forum.
    EBay is likely a good choice for a remote fob for the Trooper alarm / remote door unlocking. The instructions to program the fob for your vehicle is available in this forum, you can do a search.
    Some Troopers use oil, my 96 didn't neither does my 2001. You may want to search on that. I think the 96s had some trouble with lifter noise when oil sludge built-up (from not frequent enough oil changes). You can search that in the forums as well.
    Long live Trooper! :)
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I will attempt to answer the performance stuff for elctpk. My 2 cents worth:
    ..
    1.) The engine must breath well to perform well. I use a K&N original equipment replacement air filter which seems to breath a little easier than a new clean paper filter. My mecanic shop will do the K&N filter cleaning for me cheaper than replacing paper filters. I tried the kit where you replace the whole intake box with a cone shaped one, but I saw that the filter was too exposed to flying debris directly off the radiator fan, so I sent that back.
    ..
    2.) The exhaust I once researched in depth (several years ago for my 1995) I found an exhaust manufacturer in the UK that makes an aftermarket exhaust for the "Isuzu Duty" what they call a Trooper over there, and he said that the stock exhaust is about as efficient and free flowing as it can be without making a lot of noise. So I keep a stock exhaust.
    ..
    3.) Braking. It is my personal preference to stay on top of brake maintenance maybe to the extreme since braking is important to me. When I bought my 2001 Trooper used with 29K miles on it I immediately flushed the brake lines with new fluid.
    ..
    4.) Not wanting to take any chances with oils, I had all the oils changed. Front and Rear Differentials, manual transmission, and power steering. All with products from http://www.RedLineOil.com.
    ..
    5.) My 2001 has always used synthetic oil, I promptly changed the oil again keeping with synthetic.
    ..
    6.) Tires make a lot of difference in handling. I have run Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo tires and am now using Yokohama Geolander G051's. Both are great performers. The Revos would be my first choice off road or in snow country, the G051's for mostly road driving are a little quieter than the already very quiet Revos. Size 265/70R16 look better without killing fuel economy. 275/70R16 and even 33 inch tall 285/75R16 would fit even without a lift, but if you're into big tires go with the OME set for suspension. Compare tires online at places such as http://www.tirerack.com
    ..
    7.) Suspension. I use the OME kit for medium firmness. This gives a very soft nice ride on slow little bumps and great control on larger faster bumps. It also gives a 1.5 inch lift. I'd prefer only half that much extra lift since the Trooper seems to have plenty of clearance for my use alrady, but the great ride and control are worth having to have the 1.5 inch lift.
    ..
    8.) I don't have this but If I put on an aftermaket front bumper with a winch such as the ARB unit, I'd also go with the SwayAway stiffer front torsion bars because of the extra weight to prevent diving when stopping.
    ..
    9.) Poly sway bar bushings are nice for better cornering, but if you have tire vibrations might transmit the vibrations to the frame more than the stock rubber bushings.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    I checked with my local dealer about getting the timing belt and water pump replaced on my 2000 Trooper LS. He quoted about $800 for both. I think it's time to look around for an independent mechanic to get a price. Anybody been through this lately?

    Thanks and have a happy new year.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Yep, I used an independent a few months back and it cost me $200 to get the timing belt replaced. He said he would recommend replacing the water pump at the same time since he would be there anyway with the tear down. He called me when he got it dis-assembled and said the water pump looked so good, that he did NOT recommend me replacing it. So I didn't. The price included the new belt which was about $90 bucks. Very reasonable price I thought. :)
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Usually the labor cost is high for timing belt changes. So, most people will also change the water pump and timing belt tensioner while its all apart. These extra parts get "free" installation since the timing belt replacement clears the way. On Troopers the timing belt tensioner might make a clicking noise if it starts to fail.
  • serranotserranot Member Posts: 113
    That's interesting. I'm not sure I agree. Short of them leaking or having the bearing go, they always look fine. I will replace anyway regardless of how it looks. In my mind, the whole point is to zero-time the pump, tensioner, and idlers so that they don't individually fail down the road.

    Regards,
    Tom
  • xkipxxkipx Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 isuzu, it had keyless entry on it, but limited to like 20ft, and ugly remote. So i purchased a bull dog (www.bulldogsecurity.com) remote start, and keyless entry.

    For the remote start working easily, Now this is my problem, I can't get the door locks to work. I got the door lock to work, not door unlock. (already replaced the bulldog unit, it's not that)

    When i press the unlock it makes the click in the box, but nothing happends. It says in the car, that the blue/yellow and orange/blk wire is unlock, and the lght green/red and orange/blk is lock, since the orange/blk wire is the same, this is how i have it hooked up.

    unlock wire (from bulldog) going to orange/blk and blue yellow

    lock wire (from bulldog) going to same orange/blk and light green/red wire

    Lock will work, but not unlock. Now if I take the wire and ground it, it will continully unlock, so i know it's the right wire

    Does anyone follow this, and know what the problem is?
  • n9pugn9pug Member Posts: 3
    when you say you installed the 750 ohm resistor in series, does this mean you plugged it back in? wouldnt that cut the resistor value in half? I am curious, the other posts
    I have read on this say to install a resistor value of about 7500 ohm, depending on your location in the US. Also, would this mean not to plug it back in to the thermistor? Give me some help here. I want to install a 7500 ohm resistor, but I am unclear as if I am to plug it back in, or just install the resistor across the leads of the plug. please advise...... :confuse:
  • billyc2billyc2 Member Posts: 3
    recently bought a trooper duty 3.1 td.1993 model ran out of fuel. everything primed up ready to go but wont start. anti-theft light keeps flashing. help
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Are there any engine computer codes or check engine light? More clues needed.
    ..
    I always wanted a diesel for the fuel economy but never had one due to import rules. Maybe after the low sulfur diesel fuel regulation is enforced later this year, Isuzu will finally bring in it's diesels to the USA. I'd love to see:
    ..
    1.) diesel versions of the Isuzu pickups and Ascender 30+ mpg
    2.) Isuzu's cars to return in both DI gasoline and diesel 50+ mpg
    3.) Isuzu to bring back the Trooper or GBX as diesel
    4.) Isuzu diesel inline 4 cylinder in a minivan 40 mpg hwy. and designed to be maintained from one side (way easier than V6 maintenance) since it would be mounted transverse.
  • billyc2billyc2 Member Posts: 3
    sorry cant give n e more clues. completely in the dark. my mechanic suspects immobiliser might need reset. unfortunately isuzu dealers quite unhelpful unless you give it to em and then they charge an arm and a leg to put it on to the computer and then about£40 per hour labour to fixit
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    I can give you the electrical schematic for your vehicle, but it is a file and I am not sure if I can do it through this website. That may help you if you are familiar with troubleshooting?
  • billyc2billyc2 Member Posts: 3
    any help would b greatly appreciated. thanks
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Mike would be able to email it to you if you made your email address visible in your member profile. We discourage posting your email address in a public message.

    tidester, host
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    My email is profile posted, if you want to send me yours, I will email file.
  • yngveyngve Member Posts: 12
    After burning 4+ quarts over the last 1400 miles regardless of what additives were added to the oil, My troop finally got traded in on a CPO Saab 9-5 wagon. As competent in the snow, faster, better handling, same interior space, 31+ mpg, and a warranty. Good luck y'all!

    SYJ
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Did you get much for it? Did you tell the buyer about the oil consumption being 4qt ix 1400 miles? Just curious. I love my Trooper, but that much oil use would force me to give it up too. I would search for another Trooper to last till the diesel SUVs arrive. My wife would rather me get a compact sedan instead.
  • bawbcatbawbcat Member Posts: 118
    Sorry to hear about your Trooper experience, but good choice on the Saab, it's a great car. I have a Trooper and a 9-5 and really like them both. There is some great saab-specific info on the net.

    My 98 Troop uses some oil, but it's not terrible. The original owner changed oil only about every 7k miles with dino oil. I got the truck with about 50k miles on it. I change the oil every 5k with synthetic. The truck has about 70k now, and I probably have to add about 1 quart between my 5k oil changes.
  • elctpkelctpk Member Posts: 3
    thanks for all the input on my new trooper...i bought the rancho 9000s and also the Yokohama Geolandar tires...i put in the k&n air filter...nerf bars..by manik..love them..put on a bra..black outs..also vent visors..fog lights...clarion 6.5 dvd ..i LOVE my trooper...i will post a pic of it in the next couple of days..from before and after..now comes to Check Engin Light ....the codes came up..and they where egr valve..cat conc eff low bank one and g sensor.......HELP...i know the cat conv...but the rest i dont ...what do they do and i want my trooper to run the best i can make it..so where can i get these parts..it is a 96..thanks everyone.......robert..ps i live in nd and the nearest isuzu dealer is in mn...about 600 miles...
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I had the EGR code come up, so I had the EGR valve changed. The EGR valve going bad will cause irratic idle or when realy bad stalling, or no ability to idle. The EGR on my 2001 is easy to get at right on top of the engine near the firewall on the passenger side. I was told by my machanic that the labor for changing the EGR valve is for cleaning out the crusty buildup in the engine side of where the valve bolts on. I was also told that the EGR valve is a GM made part and is supposed to last the life of your Trooper, but some were made poorly, and the new replacement EGR valves are better and will last the life of your Trooper. You should have no trouble buying an EGR valve, look for discounts at St. Charles Isuzu. My Mechanic is Creech Imports which started out as an Isuzu only shop. http://www.creechimport.com/
  • quickstepquickstep Member Posts: 12
    Happy new year!
    Wouldn't you know it, I'm the second owner of a '02 trooper with TOD and at 62, 200 miles, I sprang a leak. It's tranny fluid. I checked underneath the vehicle careful not to wipe off any telltale drips and found that it seems to be coming from the small oil pan in front of the big tranny oil pan. That's where the puddle is on the driveway. Anyway, I warmed up the trooper and put it in drive and nothing, must have lost most of the load. Was talking to the mechanic at the local service station and he said that the fluid fill is in a place that cannot be reached by lying down in the driveway. My secretary's husband is a mechanic and he said that '02 troopers do have a very small fill dip stick located on the passenger side top of the tranny behind the fire wall. Has anybody heard of this? Well, I don't think I'll be able to top it off in the drive like most normal vehicles, any suggestions on how to have the trooper towed? I am not in 4 wheel mode. Should I specify a flat bed? I think I'll will have our local service station mechnaic look at it. I'd like the pan dropped and the filter changed along with the fluid change. That's assuming the leak can be found. Any thoughts on what this might cost and any thing else that I might be able to do. Still winter time in NE and TOD is a great thing to have. Thanks!
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