Isuzu Trooper

bsmart1 · May 2006

My experience with rough idle on this model is a need to use carb cleaner on the intake butterfly and air intake throat. I found that mine was really coated with carbon deposits from the EGR system. I did a thorough cleaning of these and the EGR tube going to the intake chamber and my idle smoothed right out. Additionally my mpg improved measurably.
In mixed driving short trips of about 6 miles, I'm getting 15 mpg and about 18.5 mph on the highway. My Trooper is about to roll over 91K miles. I think it runs as well now as it ever has.

Things I've done to improve MPG are well documented on this site in previous messages.

concoursal · May 2006

What is the process for cleaning the intake port? Other than carb cleaner, what should I use (brush, scraper)?

bradesp · May 2006

Last year I researched buying a used Trooper. My biggest concern is gas mileage. While researching this thread I stumbled on several folks who had reported very good results with a fairly expensive / exotic electrical harness / spark plug Modification. As I recall, the principal was straight forward, it provided a more complete "burn" and the result was 10-20% improved fuel economy. It was not cheap however.

For the life of me, I can't find the referenced in this thread.

Can someone help me out? Does this sound familiar to anyone?

If it helps, the spark plugs with very custom, plasma / arc technology and you had to buy these from the company that manuf. the harness / system.

bradesp

boxtrooper · June 2006

I posted with excellent result using the DirectHits spark plug and wire upgrade on my 1995 Trooper. It went from 9.9mpg to 11.2mpg towing 4000# trailer on a route I use often so I can verify these results. The engine was much smoother and more peppy. Without towing, the mpg was up maybe from 15.5 to around 17mpg in daily commute, but it is hard not to use some of that extra power for fun in trade for economy. The 1995 Trooper has remote ignition coils and high voltage spark plug wires, the DirectHits reduces the loss in the spark plug wires and allows the computer to control timing better, which allows the computer to advance the timing. The result is more completely burned fuel and more torque especially at high RPMs.
..
The new "built into the spark plug" version is here:
http://www.pulstarplug.com/
..
This is the product I used in my 1995 Trooper, I got the whole kit, zero resistor spark plugs, low resistance spark plug wire set, and the DirectHits units.
http://www.directhits.com/index.html
And the white paper that gives the circuit diagram and technical details:
http://www.directhits.com/tech/SAE_02ffl_204.pdf
..
Other articles about the DirectHits can be found using your favorite search engine and "DirectHits" or "Pulstarplug" or "Combustion Technology Products Corp." etc..
..
Here is a place to get efficient low noise spark plug wire:
http://www.rahq.com/acatalog/Online_Catalog_Ignition_7.html
..
Here is a web page dedicated to all sorts of MPG enhancers, I don't know anything about it, except it popped up in my web search.
http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:Fuel_Efficiency_Retrofits

chilly1000will · June 2006

If any Isuzu owners have a Nakamichi MB-70 Mobile 6 Disc Music Bank that no longer works, www.overstock.com has new ones with 1yr factory warranty for $192.95. If you search for overstock.com cupons, you can get a cupon for 10% off or $25.00 if order is over $220.00. I used a 10% cupon and paid $176.60 including shipping.

new24whln · June 2006

I just bought my son a 93 Trooper. Both rear doors and the tailgate have the child proof locks set, and we cannot get them to budge to the free position. Does anybody know how to unlock the child proof locks? The Trooper has a anti-theft system installed where you must insert a chip in the dash to start the vehicle. Could that be causing the locks to be stuck in the lock position? His trooper has a 3.2 DOHC engine. Any words on the reliability? Good or bad? Thanks.

atfdmike · June 2006

Hi, I bought my son a 94 trooper and so far it has been a very good vehicle for him here in Michigan....snow and all! It sounds like you have an aftermarket anti theft system, so I don't know how you could troubleshoot the lock problem. I checked the manual and the only thing I could discern is that electrically, the locks are supposed to respond at the same time unless mechanically (hand or key) applied.
The 3.2 DOHC motor seems very good. You have to make sure the timing belt maintenance is followed, and common complaints seem to be about lifter noise and loose steering. If you do a search of this forum, you can learn a lot. ( The factory recommends running a 0-30 synthetic Mobil 1 for noisy lifters for at least one oil change cycle, and the steering problem is usually addressed with power steering fluid change, adjusting steering gear and checking tire pressure and alignment).Isuzus have a pretty complex electrical architecture, but seem fairly reliable to me. I highly recommend going through the vehicle and changing all fluids so that you know what you have to start with.
Good luck, and if you find out the problem with the doors, please post so we can all benefit. Best of luck.

laneyboy · June 2006

I just bought it with 136,000 miles on it from a private seller. I drove it for one day and put on about 80 miles, and i knew it needed an oil because it was sitting for a year, but for this one day i thought it would be alright because the oil pressure gauge ran in the hight range around 55. Well I woke up this morning and went to go to another place to give it an oil change about 2 miles away and on the way it started to run real bad and it would knock, but it didn't smoke. I gave it an oil change and the oil was like water. I even changed 3 of the 4 plugs because when i took one out the plug sleeve was on it and i couldn't get it off so i stuck it back in. Started the car and still ran rough, buy good oil pressure. Took it down the road and it had no powe what so ever. I stopped at a stop sign and it dies, I started it back up and it starts to steam out of the tail pipe like it would if a head gasket were out. It had not done this at all before. Well needless to say the plug i didn't change is a dead plug and the cap, rotor, and wires are shot. There's no oil in the radiator but it does oush air through the radiator when it's running but not into the coolant resevoir. it also runs cool. This the wierdest thing i've seen. It was never overheated so how is it a head gasket. Can anyone tell me what's goin on.

rckclmb · June 2006

I just wanted to both make a suggestion & also see if others have had the same issue/result. I bought a 99 rodeo about 7 months ago & had some troubles very shortly after driving it off the car lot. The check engine light started coming on & going off. The dealership changed out some EGR tubing? & a couple of the O2 sensors (based on the codes from the CEL). It was pulling teeth to get them to do that work on their bill. Within a week or two the CEL was coming back on. We took it back & they said it was one of the other O2 sensors that they didn't replace & that we had to cover it. We let it go for a little while & then took it into an auto parts shop & they found seven errors ranging from O2 sensors, EGR, & multiple missfires. All of the O2's had an error this time around even though some had JUST been replaced. The sales rep suggested some injector/fuel cleaner with a tank of premium fuel. As we were heading out of state the next morning & I had just filled the tank up I decided to buy a large bottle of the cleaner & run it through more than one tank of gas. By the time we got back from the trip 3-4 tanks later the CEL had gone off & stayed off most of the time. I live in Iowa & have been using the mid grade ethanol in all my vehicles until this. Once we got back & put the ethanol back in the CEL started staying on more often than not again. We switched back to the non-ethanol & after several months have not seen the CEL. By everything I can tell it seems like ethanol was the cause. If this helps anyone else with there EGR & O2 problems let me know.

russla · June 2006

Re the locks, My son yanked on the inside handle, and put his in a similiar situation, I couldn't release the mechanism. What worked for me was to unscrew the door handle trim from inside the car, and that eased the tension, then I reinstalled it, and was able to move the (on-off) switch to the position I want.

Regards

tidester · June 2006

A large internet Web site is looking to interview consumers who are SUV owners. Please send an e-mail to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Tuesday June 20, 2006 by 2:00 PM PST/5:00 PM EST containing your daytime contact information and the SUV you currently drive.

Thanks,
Chintan Talati
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com

gcane93 · June 2006

I have 98 Trooper, last week all of a sudden the washer fluid for the windshield stop working. The wiper blades still working when I pull but no fluid come out.

The reservoir still full. The rear washer is working, any ideas? Thank you.

wzhao68 · June 2006

Hi there,

I have a 1998 trooper, recently failed the smog test with NO high (AVE: 88, MEAS: 848) at 15 mph.
My check engine wasn't on, and have been using 91 gas. just had an oil change with synthetic oil (the same day as the smog check), run the car for 20 minutes on the road, still failed. The guy suggested a catalytic convertor replacement, is there other solutions?
Thanks,

David

atfdmike · June 2006

Hi, here is an excerpt of what the book says about how the system works.
Washer
When the windshield washer switch is depressed, battery voltage is applied to the windshield washer motor and the alarm and relay control unit. The windshield washer motor pumps fluid on the windshield and the alarm and relay control unit energizes and applies battery voltage to the LO winding of the windshield wiper motor through the windshield wiper switch. The wipers run at LO speed until the switch is released.
Unless there is a kink or something blocking the inlet or outlet to the pump, and assuming you mean that when you attempt to apply fluid the wipers do turn on, I would guess that the pump is bad in the front of engine compartment.Here is link to picture:
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a62722!v=.
You may unplug the electrical connector and use a 12 volt test light to see if voltage is applied when the fluid button is applied. IF there is power, then pump needs replacement. They are available at most parts stores. good luck

atfdmike · June 2006

Hi, I looked and found only one technical service bulletin on converter failure. If you have an aftermarket alarm system, it may apply.Otherwise, it may help to check for any trouble codes that may have been set. Some codes remain in the ecm even after the check engine or malfunction indicator light up and then turn off. If none, then I hope this info helps you decide what to do. good luck

1998 Isuzu Truck Trooper LS V6-3.5L
Vehicle Level Powertrain Management Emission Control Systems Catalytic Converter Technical Service Bulletins All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - Misfire DTC's/Catalytic Converter Damage
Emissions - Misfire DTC's/Catalytic Converter Damage
Information IB04-03-S001
Misfire DTCs and Catalytic Converter Damage Due to Installation of Alarm Systems

Issue Date: February 2004

Affected Vehicles

2003 - 2004 and prior Isuzu models.

Service Information

It has been determined that aftermarket alarm systems incorrectly installed in vehicles have the potential to cause misfire codes and damage the catalytic converter.

These alarm systems use a circuit interrupt which utilize the ignition circuit on the vehicle, they also utilize mechanical relays and normal vehicle movement can trigger these relays to engage and disengage the ignition circuit while the vehicle is in motion. These disruptions of the ignition circuit, which occur in milliseconds, may cause more fuel to be commanded. Over time, on and off fuel dumping can cause misfire codes and ultimately damage the converter assembly.

Engineering could not identify any alarms that utilize solid-state circuitry that would eliminate this concern. Because of this, it has been determined that all alarm systems must be routed through the starter circuit in order to avoid this condition.

Dealers must be aware of this issue and take note of the wiring on vehicles with alarm systems that come in for repair, particularly for catalytic converter damage that seem to have no known root cause.

gcane93 · June 2006

Thanks for the suggestion, I will try to investigate this weekend and ley you know how it turn out.

nytrooper · June 2006

Hi All, great board. 1997 Trooper LTD, 137K. You've already helped with my first CEL for the EGR system. Initially pulled and cleaned, helped for awhile, but came back with a vengence of stalling when stopped. Yes, I checked and cleaned the tube, although it wasn't bad. Also learned to check and clean the air intake butterfly, quite skunked. Finally dropped the $135 at Autozone for a new EGR valve, pulled the ECM fuse, and off I went yesterday. Ran fine, but now the idle intermittently fluctuates, sometimes up to 2000 on start, and doesn't always drop when coming to a stop, causing the tranny to thump. About to go down and reconnect the battery from an overnight reset with hopes of a smoother day. Other issue of concern is a fluctuating voltage guage from 12 to 16, since I bought it last Sept. Local shop checked, noted proper charging, but I did opt to replace an old battery. Do these have voltage issues and would it cause a problem with the ECM ? Thanks for the help.

nytrooper · June 2006

Overnight reset of the ECM didn't seem help, possibly made it worse. Started and stalled several times, then ran OK, but the fluctuating idle continues, even had another CEL pop up, need to check it ASAP. How can I manually read the codes without a tester ? Praying it's not a gasket issue, runs smooth and strong, good mileage 15/19, burns about a quart every 2K, morning start up shows noticeable water vapor, later on faint white/gray smoke with foul smelling exhaust.

nytrooper · June 2006

Where in Albany did you go ? Otto was a dealer, but now only German Auto Haus handles dealer service.

atfdmike · June 2006

Hi, I checked my manuals, and it appears that it is not possible to check your codes without a scan tool. It is a good thing if you are at least getting a CEL, as that gives you somewhere to start looking. Many auto parts stores now will read your codes for you at no charge. They will probably suggest replacing parts too, but you should first determine that there is not something else wrong before going into buying parts, especially expensive ones, until you have ruled out other causes.
I would also suggest that you do not rely on the voltage guage for checking the condition of your system. A Digital multimeter will give you precise and accurate readings. A common Isuzu service recommendation is to check harnesses and connectors for conductivity (ie: clean with contact cleaner and make sure wires and connectors are all intact. Maybe with some more info from the codes you will get more help. Good luck.

nytrooper · June 2006

Thanks for the info. Just back from a 300 mile loop, no more CELs, just the idle wants to run as high as 2000 before settling down, seems to be the only issue. Switched to full syn oil and high octane, she runs strong and quietly, with almost 20mpg today. Did order an 02 sensor, $20 on ebay, to complete the EGR system overhaul. If that doesn't fix it, with another ECU reset, I'll let someone run a full diagnostic before moving on to a MAP sensor, etc.

nytrooper · June 2006

Idle continues to fluctuate, and even stalled at an intersection, quite frustrating. No CEL. Brought her to my local shop, no codes, we cleaned the AIC, which certainly needed it, and replaced the PCV, pulled the ECU fuse. Overall seems to be better than ever, except for the idle issue ! Scheduled a visit to a dealer on Thursday to try and resolve once and for all. Might pull the battery connection again tonight and see if a short road trip tomorrow will help.

nytrooper · June 2006

140 miles, the issue seems corrected, shhhhh. Won't know if it was the AIC or PCV, but for $8, I don't really care ! Horsepower has definitely improved, I'll get back with with mileage next week.

spdracr4 · June 2006

Hey there, I'm a very discouraged 2001 trooper owner at the moment. It seems that we share the same problem. Has your reduced power light come on during any of this...? Mine will intermitenly come on with the Check engine light. This problem is killing me!!! She runs great and then that stuff. The light will come on (CEL)and then run great and then the light back on and is still running great. I have gone through some catalytic converters too. What did you last change to get these results today? help...

spdracr4 · June 2006

Hello all! I'm a very discouraged 2001 Trooper owner at the moment. It seems that I share the same problem with the guy above. My reduced power light will intermitenly come on with the Check engine light. Then I can't get it to rev over 2000rpm. I have to turn it off on several times to get the reduced power light off. Then it will go fine for awile. This problem is killing me!!! She runs great and then that stuff. The light willgo off (CEL)and then run great and then the light comes back on and is still running great. I have gone through some catalytic converters too. What did you last change to get these results today? help...

atfdmike · June 2006

Hi,
I have never swapped out an engine but looking at the service manual for 1993, and for 1992 through 1995 the SOHC engine is the same. It would matter for purposes of single or double cam, and whether it was a manual or automatic trans. Only the SOHC 3.2 is available in 1996, and I cannot tell if it is the same as previous.
the other engine option available for 1992,1993, 94 and 95 was the 3.2L DOHC Fuel injected engine. For all practical purposes, same mechanical mounting, but different ECM.
Hope this helps.

luvmy93trooper · June 2006

Thanks, this was very helpful

nytrooper · July 2006

Well gang, all I can say is...WOW. 600 miles later and she's getting 20mpg on the highway, even at 70+ with the windows and sunroof open ! From a dead stop, I can even hear the wheels squeal slightly if I get on her. Talk about improved performance with 138K. The AIC cleaing and new PCV are certainly credited with resolving the idle issue, but at the dealer, German Auto Haus, I had the fuel filter replaced, as well new fluid in the differentials, and grease on the driveshaft. They spent an hour an hour going through her, and then another to service, total bill was $140. The only Isuzu dealer around, and thankfully, top quality. Also decided to try a one step injector cleaner, before scheduling a full service, opted for Greased Lighting, over Sea Foam, no doubt it's contributed to the renewed performance. Looking forward to checking city mileage, results soon.

nytrooper · July 2006

Perhaps I should put the old PCV back in.....picked up a speeding ticket for 80 in a 65 !

stever · July 2006

Heh, you have to pay to play I guess.

Karl is sympathetic if you want to go vent. :shades:

Spring has Sprung...and So Have the Speed Traps

Steve, Host

nytrooper · July 2006

They no longer make the PL24458, any suggestions for a larger capacity oil filter ? Or, is the PL14459 a new version with higher capacity ?

boxtrooper · July 2006

The PL14459 is the regular size, the PL24458 was the extra capacity size of the PL14459.
..
Note: The PL14459 is extremely common in Japanese vehicles, fits most Honda cars for example.
..
Suggestion for a larger capacity filter: The thread is 20mm x 1mm, measure the filter seal location and then find dimensionally compatible other filters. I once found a reference for a much larger filter made for a diesel engine that would fit, but the pressure relief valve built inside the filter was too high a pressure compared with the PL14459. About that time I found the PL24458 by comparing dimensions and specs in the Purolator book, I used that as long as I could find it.

nytrooper · July 2006

Thanks, I've been through the Purolator website, link title and checked out the complete application list for both filters with the one for the PL14459 about triple the size. The majority of those for the PL24458 were for late 80s 4 cylinder models. This is where they note the PL14459 now supersedes the PL24458. Not sure if this was a cost cutting move or if they perhaps had increased the capacity of the PL14459. I realize the Pure One used to be considered the "gold standard", is it still ? Or would it be worth the time to explore a couple other top filter companies (suggestions ?) and see if they might have a cross reference to the larger PL24458 ?

Related topic. Last oil change at 134K, I switched from Valvoline Max Life to SynPower, mainly using high octane, did switch down once, and the ticking started back intermittently. About to change the oil with 4K on it, but last tank used high octane, and it went away. Not bad considering it's been only 40 days since my last oil change !

Strange oil change fact. After each, at about 1500 - 2000 miles I'm down about a quart, but at 4000 miles, perhaps a 1/4 quart low.

boxtrooper · July 2006

I recently drove a 6500 mile trip. The first 2500 miles used 3/4 quart or so. The middle 2000 miles in the mountains 5000 to 14000 feet altitude used no measurable amount of oil. The return trip again used oil, about 1/2 quart in 2000 miles.
..
I use high octane gasoline to avoid preignition. I also use fuel injector cleaner (Valvoline or Lucas Oil brands) once in a while.
..
I have 93K on a 2001 Trooper manual 5 speed. My best MPG was 22mpg in Yellowstone park at 45mph. Next best was 21mpg driving 65-70mph with a tailwind. My worst was 16mpg keeping up 65 to 80mph on 6% up hill grades with a sports car over the Rocky Mountain passes on Hwy70 West of Denver.

gtrooper · July 2006

My 89 2.4 5 spd trooper has a problem that I cant figure out. It started whining under load at about 1500rpm. It idles rough but was on blocks when I got it 3 months ago and I have done little to it (shameful). Also it doesnt seem to have much power, and tried to run hot along with the whining. I parked her as soon as I heard the noise and noticed the temp raising, I need some help getting pointed in the right direction.

boxtrooper · July 2006

I would do the stuff you do before buying a car: start with air cleaner and fuel filter condition then compression check and inspect the oil for water and water for oil, then go through everything looking for anything that seems not the way it should be. Next places to look: vaccum leak where air bypasses the carb and makes the engine run too lean and without much power. Inspect the spark plug wires and plugs. If these need a complete replace check out http://www.directhits.com for a complete set of wires and plugs.
..
Ask a great Trooper mechanic at http://www.creechimports.com

nytrooper · July 2006

Back from a 500 mile weekend through New Hampshire and Vermont. Easy 20/21 mpg highway. Ticking had returned pre-trip even with the high octane, ruled out that possibility. No time for an oil change, plus I want to do the research on an alternative solution for the PL24458. Decided to try the Greased Lightning oil additive for lifters, with the 4K old Syn oil. 5 minutes later she had quieted down, but returned after about 40 miles, however 500 miles later, she's very quiet and smooth, probably realizes fresh oil is coming tomorrow. Did manage to briefly cross reference other filter manufacturers who produce the comparable larger filter. Fram's 3593 series crosses to the PL24458, and the size when compared to the PL14459 is that 1" larger. Need spend some more time checking specs, I'd guess that they're Extended Guard is comparable in quality to the Pure One, but could use some input, think I'd like to try the Mobil One version if I can find one.

boxtrooper · July 2006

The Fram 3593 is the same size as the smaller PL14459.

nytrooper · July 2006

K&N 1004 and Mobil M1-104 appear identical and both cross to the 14459 and 24458. Did notice the 3593 series also crossed to the 14459, but thought I did see a taller version at an Advanced Auto, possibly older stock before being phased out like the 24458. On my way back a little later to verify what I saw. If I can't track down the elusive larger one, then I'll most likely opt for the Mobil 1 at 10.95 vs 12.95 for the K&N, curious who's manufacturing for them ?

ingman · July 2006

Hi my name is bob ingman. I live on remote island in SE alaska. My 91 trooper has a bad waterpump. I purchased another and began changing without a motor manual. I have removed the radiator to gain access to the components more easily. All has been a guessing game . Have reached the point of realizing that the lower timing cover must be removed to gain access to one of the pump mounting bolts. It seems that in order to remove the lover timing chain cover I must first remove the harmonic balancer (big pulley at bottom f engine). Is this correct? I am not able to hold the balancer in position formly enough to loosen the boly holding it. Any suggestions? Any help I can get will be appreciated. The cars sits disassembled right now. Thanks. Bob

tburkett · July 2006

Looking at a 1999 Trooper, with 100K miles. Excellent shape and runs great. No ticking...

Is there anything else I should be looking for? This will be my third Isuzu in a row, had a 2000 Amigo, then a 2002 Axiom XS... looking to sell the Axiom and get something "cheaper". I have always loved the Trooper!! I just need some reliable basic transportation with plenty of room.

I am aware of the major Isuzu issues, lack of dealers, etc...

Any other issues I should be looking for??? Any advice is welcome.

Thanks in advance,
Tim-

boxtrooper · July 2006

When I purchased my third Trooper it was the first time a bought a used one. I found huge differences in the suspension and transmission performance in different copies of the same year Trooper.
..
1.) Stay away from a Trooper that looks beat inside, because that means they probably have not done the maintenance.
..
2.) See if all the tires are the same type and size, sleazy tire selection to save a buck also means they probably have not done the maintenance.
..
3.) If the suspension feels worn out and the handling is very sloppy the Trooper has seen some very hard use. Do a good evaluation before buying, then upgrade using an OME or similar suspension upgrade kit.
..
4.) Have a mechanic that you hire for $100 to $200 do a thourough check out of the new Trooper, this way you know what you are getting, remember engine/transmission replacement are far too expensive for a used car, unless you are emotioanlly attached to it.
..
5.) If you buy it, have all the fluids changed right away. Do the 90K maintenance includes oils for engine, trans, xfer case, 4wd or TOD selector, power steering, front diff, rear diff, and engine coolant. I would also add a full flush of the brake master cylinder and lines. I did all of this on my 2001 Trooper when bought it had 30K miles. I have had 63K trouble free miles and am doing the 90K maintenance today. Doing the service might identify issued to take care of before they become a problem.
..
Ask this discussion to tell you of particualar issued for your model. example on my 2001 the intake manifold gaskets are prone to crack, so check for the cracking and change them before dirt is sucked into the engine.

atfdmike · July 2006

Hi, Yes, you will have to remove the harmonic balancer to change the water pump. You will also need to remove the timing belt, and now is a good time to replace that if ithas not been done, the belt life is 60,ooo miles. If you are even half way to that, I would change it. You will also have to release the automatic tensioner for the belt. Note how it is removed so that you can reinstall properly. The trickiest part of your job is that the belt and timing marks on the timing gears are critical, and must be correct when performing the work. While you are doing this, it would help to put reference marks with a paint stick or marker on each gear pulley and the cylinder head so that when you replace the belt, the gears will be in the right place. The new belt will be marked for the direction of travel and have an indicator on it for timing placement. If you have already done all this, great. If not, In a couple days I can email you excerpts from manual, but you may not want to wait that long. One resource, not free, is advanceautoparts.com, where you can purchase online access to a manual. If you wait until next Monday, I, or another forum member, can email you the manual instructions.
To hold the balancer, a strap wrench will help if you have one. If not, I have used a piece of half inch rope and made a tourniqet with a screw driver on the balancer to hold it. You may need a balancer remover to pull the balancer off of the crankshaft. Be careful not to hammer or pry the balancer, as it can be damaged. There is an alignment groove and key that you will need to keep track of once you remove the balancer. Good luck. Let us know how you do!

koboko · July 2006

Hi, i just went thru exactly the same problem. it turned out to be a bad accelerator pedal sensor (remember this car has drive-by-wire). the part cost like $160, plus another $100 for labor. wasnt a cheap fix. dont waste time messing with catalytic converters or other stuff, this is an electrical problem. have autozone pull a code for you, that way you'll know for sure. good luck!

silverghost · July 2006

Anyone have any experience servicing the Auto-Climate Control on an '01 Trooper? Mine (w/65K) has gotten to the point of running flat-out 100% of the time, with only marginal cooling effect. My guess is that the refrigerant level is low, so I'm driving with no A/C for the moment to avoid damaging the compressor until I can have it checked out.

I had an Audi that developed a $1300 leak in the evaporator core at 50K. I'm hoping that's not the case with my Trooper.

laparka55 · July 2006

Hi all,

I owned a sweet '92 Trooper for 12 years before I foolishly sold it....now I am looking at a 2000 limited 4wd at a local shop down the street with 62K. They are asking 10500 which I think is high. Reading the posts, I am hesitant to buy -- transmissions, timing belts, oil consumption, ect. I've gathered quite a bit of helpful information from posts, but are there red flags I might check that would indicate whether to avoid this Trooper. Also, carfax showed it was a lease vehicle -- could this mean a rental?? I thought i read something about specific features of rental fleet vehicles??

Any suggestions are appreciated...

Thanks, Scott

atfdmike · July 2006

Hi, You can also check out value at www.kbb.com. I ran a quick check and the value you show is in the ballpark.
One big consideration for me would be how readily you can get service AND parts given Isuzu's departure from the American market. I have a 94 which my son drives, and I too like the older models, but they are not without their problems too. Manufacturers are only required to service emission parts and warranty parts for 10 years after discontinuance of a vehicle, so factor that in too!
Good luck.

stever · July 2006

I think the rule is that parts need to be available for the warranty period to comply with UCC regs (I've read all sorts of opinions about this over the years here, so if you have a link I'd love to see it, since I've never found a definitive one. Or maybe I've forgotten it, lol).

Even if there's no legal requirement, parts for 30 year old obscure models seem easy enough to find. Daewoo owners were very concerned when parts dried up, but that shortage only lasted a few months.

bradesp · July 2006

If I'm looking at buying a 2000, 2001 or 2002 Trooper. Can you recommend which you would buy and why? Obviously the newer models and lower mileage are obvious candidates, but what about comparing these three years in terms of durabilty and known problems that have been occuring between the 50k and 100K and beyond mileage levels.

It seems the Tranny is the biggest risk with these vehicles??

Thanks!

lampro · August 2006

Greetings. I own a 2001 Trooper that has begun missing at idle -intermittently. The onset of the problem coincided with the rear door lock (most distant) having trouble "unlocking." I am guessing this is probably a vacuum leak - probably at the intake manifold gasket which is apparently a common problem with this engine. My vehicle is used hard off and on road but maintained well. I live in a remote location, dealers and diagnostic apparatus are difficult to access and so far have done all my own engine work on this vehicle. So, cutting to the chase - does anyone have any ideas for confirming the problem short of popping the manifold off and looking? Trying not to create work for myself when not necessary. Any ideas appreciated.

105K miles
new timing belt, plugs

Thanks,
Tim

Isuzu Trooper

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles