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I usually have to add some oil after 1500 miles...usually have it changed around 3500 - 4000. If you check it regularly and don't let it get low, chances are it won't blow up. (I think the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation valve) can be the cause of quick increases in oil use and blown engines. There are instructions to replace or clean these to keep that from happening. What some folks have had happen is that the EGR gets clogged and leads to a quick and unexpected increase in oil consumption and when it unexpectedly gets too low the results are bad... probably could check every couple of weeks just to be sure.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=HAS
Here are some tire manufacturers:
Avon
BFGoodrich
Bridgestone
Continental
Dunlop
Firestone
Fuzion
General
Goodyear
Hankook
Hoosier
Kumho
Michelin
Pirelli
Sumitomo
Toyo
Uniroyal
Yokohama
Tire shopping is fun.
Thanks
How long do you keep tires? I only get 35-40k out of mine in total!
-mike
Ok. went to the dealer and he still wanted did not believe that I didn't replace the engine on this. I bought it new and it has never been replaced. He claimed that the pcv valve it needed was what they used on troopers until 1996. I don't know what to make of it all.
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Next was my 1995 Trooper. I used the original tires for 60K then bought a set of Goodyear RFA Rotation Free Aquatread tires. I changed the RFA after an emergency stop was not quick enough I felt like I was sliding on ice even though it was dry pavement, I think the rubber got hard. Since then, I keep trying to notice the traction I am getting. I listen at the same uphill right turn from a stop sign into traffic and after a while, like when the tread on my Yokohama Geolalnder G051's reached 1/2 depth they begin to slip noticeably more than when new. The G051's are on my 2001 Trooper. I am watching for a good deal on a great tire between now and the next snow, my deadline for next new tires.
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I think if you buy truck tires LT type with 16/32 tread they will be heavier and rougher riding and not as good at stopping, but you can go very long miles on them with the tread looking good. I have decided to go for the traction and not price and not try and drive tires as long as possible. So now I change them between 40K and 50K or when I perceive a traction loss, or right before snow, or right before a 4x4 off road event etc..
It has two bolts fastening it to a manifold, with an electrical connector on end.
for your olds alero post:
A single flasher internal to the Hazard switch now replaces both the old style Turn Signal Flasher & the Hazard Flasher.
This new style integral flasher is not independently serviceable.
Note: Lights flashing at twice the normal rate indicates a bulb is in need of replacement.
Hazard Switch 10359040
FAQ location...find the EGR section
http://www.isuzufaq.com/
The diagnostic codes are:
14 – Abnormal input/output operation
21 – G Sensor or wiring problem
Wheel sensors have been cleaned. Right rear wheel sensor had oil on it and oil in sensor cavity indicating real axle seal leak. Front wheel sensors had metal shavings and dirt on them. After cleaning sensors, ABS light still sporadic. Sometimes it is on after starting and sometimes it is not. Tried to access rear axle diagram posted in Msg. #9342, but webpage not found. Can anyone post service manual diagrams & info for rear axle seal replacement?
Any suggestions for fixing sporadic ABS light other than fixing rear axle seal?
Raise the vehicle.
Remove tires and wheels.
Remove brake caliper. Use a wire to attach the brake caliper to the frame.
Remove brake disc.
Remove ABS sensor.
Remove Parking brake assembly.
Remove the parking brake cable mounting bolts(Behind the back plate)(1).
Remove the bearing holder mounting nuts.
Remove axle shaft assembly. NOTE: Be sure not to damage the oil seal.
Diagram at
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/Albums/Isuzu Trooper/98isuzuaxle.gif/page/pho- to.html#pic
ABS codes 21 means disconnected or bad G sensor. 14 is common and could be triggered by 21. I think G sensor is under console, but don't have time to check now.
Two points of clarification (and item 3 is a word of caution):
1. The best defense against oil consumption is checking the oil level every other tankful, changing the oil every 3000 miles, and most important, use a high detergent synthetic motor oil. The best bet is Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40, available at most WalMart locations (no, I don't own Shell or WalMart stock). Buy the oil at WalMart, and give it to your mechanic to change (5.6 quarts according to the Service Manual). The one flaw with this engine is a tendency for the piston oil-return journals to clog. The Rotella T prevents this.
2. Have the transmission fluid level and condition checked by someone that knows how to properly check this type of transmission (even the dealers don't always know). I found a mechanic that subscribes to AllData and had him look up the procedure to refill the transmission. An inexperienced mechanic will cold-fill the transmission with the engine off, which leaves the transmission underfilled by about two quarts. If you had a mechanic check the vehicle over for you, there is a chance that he didn't know what he was doing and may have left your transmission underfilled (AAA vehicle inspection did this to me). The vehicle will probably run fine, but the fluid will age rapidly if left uncorrected.
3. If the transmission fluid is dirty and smelly, DO NOT go for a total fluid replacement using a machine (some mechanics really push for this.) This will break loose varnish which could clog parts of the tranny. Regardless of the initial tranny condition, have the pan drained and the transmission filled to the proper level (see above) every six months if really dirty, otherwise every 20,000 miles. Believe it or not, the driving you described (short trips) qualifies as heavy duty use for this tranny. I really don't know when the total replacement would be a good idea, and never without including a tranny filter change.
Drop me a line if you're ever in Northern California. The Trooper is perfect for exploring the countryside around here.
And remember to check back here whenever you run into a problem, especially if you get advised to perform an expensive repair. There are a few mechanics who take advantage of inexperienced owners, or just plain don't know what they are looking at.
Happy motoring!
Question. After spending quite some time reading posts with the word "transmission", I noticed no one has done the actual work, rather trusted it to a shop. I've also learned that this transmission has its tricks, and not many mechanics, even dealers, are familiar with it.
Well, here I go with the long question:
I'd like to do it myself. Did someone do this and can offer some advice? Do you need any particular type of oil pump or you can just use one of those you just put in the oil bottle and pump away?
I plan to drop the pan (actually there are TWO pans, a smaller one in front, and the trans. pan with two bolts in it, apparently one for draining and other for filling. Now what's odd is that both bolts are horizontal, one lower, the other higher: Are those the actual draining/filling bolts?)(I mean, I understand you have to have the engine running, and also move the auto handle thru P N R, etc, then put it on park, let the engine run, and continue filling it up, but, is that all there is to it?)
The reason for dropping the pan is that I want to replace the filter within. Now, is it necessary to remove the small pan? It has no draining plug, so if it is not removed old oil will remain in the system?
I really wish I would have the correct procedure to do this and be done with guessing. I don't even know how long it may take me to manually pump 9 quarts of ATF! Or how much torque to apply, or even if there is a torquing sequence to follow.
I love this Trooper and I want it to last forever so I want the job done perfect. If it is really difficult to do I guess I'll start calling mechanics around to find if they have experience with 2000's Troopers transmission.
So again, any good advice appreciated!
Thank you!
Dario
You will need a pump of some sort to refill the trans for reasons you have already observed. Just have to do it per below.
Pan bolt are only 28 ft/lbs of torque.
When adding or changing fluid, use only DEXRON (R) -III.
CAUTION: DO NOT OVERFILL. Overfilling will cause foaming, loss of fluid, abnormal shifting and possible damage to the transmission.
Park the vehicle on level ground and apply the parking brake firmly.
Check fluid level with engine running at idle. NOTE: Be sure that transmission fluid temperature is below 30 °C (86 °F).
Move the selector lever through all gear ranges.
Move the selector lever to "Park".
Let engine idle for 3 minutes and open the overfill screw (1).
Add released transmission fluid until it flows out over the overfill screw opening.
Let engine idle until a fluid temperature between 32 °C (90 °F) and 57 °C (135 °F) is reached, then close the overfill screw (1). Torque: 38 Nm (28 ft. lbs.) NOTE: Check transmission fluid temperature with scan tool. Minimum fluid level 57 °C (135 °F) Maximum fluid level 32 °C (90 °F)
Here is picture showing what above is referring to:
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/Albums/Isuzu%20Trooper/01ATfluidcheck.gif/page/- - - photo.html#pic
CAUTION: Do not open overfill screw with engine stopped.
CAUTION: DO NOT CHECK FLUID LEVEL UNDER THESE CONDITIONS:
Immediately after driving at sustained highway speeds.
In heavy city traffic during hot weather.
If vehicle is towing a trailer.
If the vehicle has been operated under these conditions, shut the engine off and allow the vehicle to "cool" for thirty (30) minutes. After the cool down period, restart the vehicle and continue from step 2 above.
You know, it's my firm belief that without knowing exactly what we are doing we can do more harm (immediate or even long term harm) than good when we attempt to perform even a simple task like replacing the transmission fluid.
Today I talked with 2 service advisors from 2 different Isuzu dealers, plus more than 1/2 dozen independent transmission repair shops and two of those oil service stations (like quick oil change, etc.).
I told them beforehand I like to service my own vehicles as much as I can, and if they would be willing to help me with a few questions. Except couple of morons the rest were very helpful and willing.
I asked all of them more or less the same questions:
Is it necessary to remove the small pan?
Is it a good idea to flush a tranny with under 70K miles in it before replacing the fluid?
Is the correct oil level higher than the filling plug?
What's the correct filling procedure?
What's the correct procedure to check for proper oil level?
Can this be done with a small manual pump?
You should see the disparity of answers all these professionals gave me. No one, I mean no one answered the same thing as others.
So this tells me these french made transmissions must be very durable, reliable and robust, with so many shops doing different things. And this now enforces my idea of getting info from Isuzu: I ordered the shop manual in CD form for $15 including shipping from ebay. If this CD is not what they say it is, I'll freakin buy the $175 Dollars shop manual from Isuzu, and I'll also buy an electric pump to feed the ATF inside the tranny. And while we're at it, do any one recommend any specific type of scanner or device to read OBD faulty codes? Not a 5 or 10 grand, something more realistic, may be under $500?
Thank you again,
Dario.
It appears to be in center console rear of the park brake.
Did you clear the original codes after you fixed seal? If you did and you are still getting 14 and 21, you really need to check with someone really familiar with that system, as I don't know and can't tell if one code is separate from the other.....to me, it appears one or other could trigger the other code to set. good luck. About the only easy check I could find is to do a resistance check between pins in a connector. If you want that info , email me and I can send it on.
G-SENSOR
The G-sensor installed inside the center console detects the vehicle deceleration speed and sends a signal to the EHCU. In 4WD operation, all four wheels may be decelerated in almost the same phase, since all wheels are connected mechanically.
This tendency is noticeable particularly on roads with low friction coefficient, and the ABS control is adversely affected.
The G-sensor judges whether the friction coefficient of road surface is low or high, and changes the EHCU's operating system to ensure ABS control
Do dealerships have a diagnostic scanner that can determine actual cause of problem, or do they have to use a trial and error procedure to locate cause?
I will email you re. info for resistance check.
Dealerships use a Tech 1 or Tech 2, depending on year, which can also access the history of certain codes that do remember why they set. That does not necessarily apply to all codes, however. In the right hands, they can literally drive the vehicle and monitor what the systems are doing (or not doing). There would likely still be some trial and error (hence cost) since these particular codes could have other causes associated (in other words, the code is not that the EHCU or ECM has lost communication ability or even set a code that indicates it's own failure). Also, dealers like to swap parts first before checking harness connections, etc;, which in this case would be really expensive. One guys opinion.
My Trooper burns a ton of oil right now. I'm trying Sea Foam in the crankcase. If that doesn't work, I'm going to try the Rotella oil.
Regards,
Tom
-mike
Good luck.
On the other hand, if it was just the axle itself that was bent, then replacing the bearings, axle and seal may be enough to fix it. An alignment check of the axle would be necessary to tell for sure. One guys opinion.
Regards,
Tom
I've got a buddy that drives a 98' Trooper and says he's having to put a quart in after every couple of gas fillups. That's a lot of oil!! It would be quite a savings if the cleaning can slow this consumption down.
Regards,
Tom
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I have always gone with complete sets of OME shocks and springs in sets of matching stiffness. I am using the medium shocks and medium springs now.
TRACY
One day driving home from WalMart the engine blew (Crankshaft snapped in two). My father just finished rebuilding the engine and we can't get her tu run.
Fuel pressure is correct, IAC, MAS, TPS all check out. We have nice blue spark, plenty of fuel coming out of the injectors, no ECM codes other than: [SS1 and SS2 Open]. What do these codes mean? Other than that, the timing is to spec, and everything checks out!!
Any Ideas??????