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Isuzu Trooper

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    k2rmk2rm Member Posts: 205
    My "check TOD" comes on after driving several miles while in TOD. I pulled the code and it gave me a "code 31."

    If I stop and start the engine immediately after I get this code, it will not go into TOD, but the "check TOD" and wheel indicator lights will keep flashing.

    If I let the engine cool, I can shift into TOD without any problems, but again, after several miles of driving, I will get the flashing "check TOD" light again.

    Any ideas?
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    atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    I don't think that the oil is part of this problem. There are two possible sources of oil that I know of. ONe is that the valve cover gasket is allowing oil to seep into the plug tube, which can be fixed by replacing the cover gasket. The alternative is if the tube itself which is pressed in the head is leaking, then the tube has to be replaced. I have never done the latter, but Isuzu has a bulletin out on it for 2nd gen troopers.
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    atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Everyone has an opinion, but in my experience, some pumps may be intermittent due to bad connections or grounds or due to internal wear and failures. A fuel pressure gage on the fuel tap at the tap by the firewall will tell you how much pressure is in the rail. If the pump is bad and not working, of course the trupr won't work at all. The pressure regulator is often at fault for poor idle characteristics and hard starting. That is why there is a bulletin out for that too. The regulator can be bad and still permit the engine to run, just not as well as it should.
    Identify the fuel relay on the RH fender well and remove it to allow you to put a jumper wire across the hot terminal to the fuel pump terminal. This will allow you to turn the pump on (with the ignition preferably) and pressurize the fuel system. If you are not handy and familiar with electrical troubleshooting, you may want some help to do this. Then you can be sure the pump is on when you try your initial start up and see how the engine starts. If it fires right up, and does so the next time you cold start, then your fuel system is losing pressure but your pump is fine. The gauge will tell you if you are losing pressure too fast by watching it after you shut the truck and fuel pump off after running it, and see if it falls. It will fall but it should do so very slowly, like over a several hour period. If it happens fairly fast, then the next place I would check would be the fuel regulator:first remove the vacuum line to it and see if fuel come out of it when the fuel pump is on.....if it does, it is bad and has to be replaced. If no fuel comes out, then it gets trickier, because you can change the regulator but it is a bit of work to do so and see if that makes a difference. It is about $50 bucks last time I did one. You also should replace the O rings at the same time. As I said before, if there is a check valve in the system at the tank that could be my last check. I just don't know if it exists but I suspect it does for safety reasons if none other. Maybe a search of this forum and others will help on that one. Good luck. One guys opinion.
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    jfrozenh2ojfrozenh2o Member Posts: 18
    well today i went throught all of that at a mechanics shop. the pressure is great. everything looks great. the spark plugs are sitting in a little oil, but i dont think thats the problem. we are thinking that there might be a leek in the tubes attached to the fuel pump area that is not allowing the full initial blast of fuel at first. my mechanic explained it as the tubes coming out of the fuel pump. so after an hour of him diagnosing everything we really couldnt pinpoint anything, he suggested giving it that half key turn, wait repeat method to allow fuel to fill and then start, for a couple days and if it fires up everytime, but not when immediatel started, then he wanted to take the fuel tank and insides apart to examine. sounds good but your mention about the regulator seems to really pinpoint my problem. not only is it a delayed start of 5-10 seconds but once started, it putts and chokes unless i give it gas, but once i do it runs great. still not sure, about to make a move but dont want it to be for nothing, what do you think, fuel regulator, or bleeding hose in fuel pump area? thanks-jes
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    jfrozenh2ojfrozenh2o Member Posts: 18
    also a side note. all the pressure readings were where they should be and with the engine turned off, the pressure remained stable.my 4 options. 1- new super spark plugs you had mentioned in a article. 2- fix valve cover gasket to stop oil buildup, which may cause not enought spark to fire gas up right away.. - 3 replace regulator. 4- most unwanted to do/ drop fuel tank, check pump and hoses for bleeding, which im not even sure how to do. what options do you think i tackle first. thanks-jes
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    matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    I do believe you're right. Do you know how I would ajust the fuel air mixture? :confuse:
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    atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    The fuel air mixture is not adjustable unless the ECM is reprogrammable. I think I would look for what might cause the fuel air mixture to be bad. Is the TBI body clean, is the air filter clean, Is the Mass air flow sensor (or equivalent working or at least clean (there are special cleaners for these, do not touch or use alternative) The injectors getting a good signal (there are checkers that plug in to the connector to verify signal to injector...when you remove air cleaner you can see TBI, the injectors have the wires going in to them). How about codes...not all codes keep the CEL illuminated all the time. The ECM stores codes for quite a while.
    Let us know what you find!
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    atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Well.....I am no expert, and changing the fuel regulator requires some work, but it does do a couple things that could also help. You may wish to consider whether or not you have an intake gasket leak. Sometimes they will cause problems particularly with cold engine. If you change the regulator, you have to remove the upper intake....on DOHC that is upper and intermediate intake, just to get to regulator. We are talking several hours anyway. I am not sure on SOHC engine. It is only a little more work to remove the lower intake (injectors housed in it) and just replace all the intake gaskets.
    This is a lot of work, but easier (I think) than looking at the fuel pump. When you tested did you see any loss of pressure over 15 minutes or so? I generally look to the obvious first, and since Isuzu makes mention of the fuel regulator as a cause for slow starting, I would start there. I have often thought about putting a direct push on type switch on the dash that would allow you to energise the pump at will so cold starts are not a problem. Most car companies have a longer run time than Isuzu for the pump at start.??????
    I agree that if oil was deep in tube then you might get shorting of spark current, but not a little at bottom of tube. One guys opinion.
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    jfrozenh2ojfrozenh2o Member Posts: 18
    ok so say it is the fuel regulator that is causing this. then when im driving down the road or if ive had the vehicle running for any period of time longer than five minutes. if i turn the vehicle off and then start if back up, it fires right up, no matter how many times i do that. again only when the vehicle is sitting for a long period of time. does it have this delayed start up. would a faulty regulator still allow that
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    jfrozenh2ojfrozenh2o Member Posts: 18
    or better yet to figure this out. i am able to locate the regulator for 45 bucks at oreilys auto parts. what can i do to check to see if the regulator is shot. what signs does it show, except for the obvious ones that i am facing. or should i just start with tackling this project and go from there.
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    atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    It is pretty hard to give you direction, but when you did the fuel pressure test, did you give the fuel system some off time and watch the guage for leakdown? If it is leaking down, often it is fuel regulator. I really suggest that you search a couple of the Isuzu forums for "fuel regulator" and maybe "check valve" and see what you come up with. I have suggested the most often quoted items to look at but that does not mean the cause could not be elsewhere. PlanetIsuzu is another great forum I check on too.
    good luck, one guys opinion.
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    cgb678cgb678 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Trooper, when i put the key into the ignition and turn on the electrical systems, everything works fine. I continue to turn the key to engage the starter and I hear a loud click...everthing dies, starter does not engage and all electrical systems shut down. If i remove the key and wait a minute and put the key back into the igintion the electrical systems come back on but the clock and stereo have reset... still no start. Battery is new and fully charged. The starter was replaced last year. Any thoughts?
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    jfrozenh2ojfrozenh2o Member Posts: 18
    yes it definatly seems to be the regulator, because i have heard from people that normally once a fuel pump goes bad, it stays bad. in other words i dont think that if the fuel pump was bad it would give me such a hard time starting and then work great while running. so im quite sold it being the regulator, plus like you said, if isuzu is saying to replace the regulator from slow starting, then it must be a common issue. thanks i will check out that other site also
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    jfrozenh2ojfrozenh2o Member Posts: 18
    nope it wasnt the regulator. i changed it today with a new one and the problem continues. as i sat thinking about this problem, the trooper will fire up right away if ive been driving it, and if its been sitting for a half an hour will fire up after about 4 seconds. but if i let it sit overnight it takes alot to get it going. the mechanic had tested the pressure but not for a long period of time. so lets just say that it doesnt sound like the fuel pump because it wouldnt have pressure or be working at all, or over time stop working. so if it;s not the fpr and the pump is fine, then it would seem that there is some bleeding in the line somewhere. as i am not a mechanic firsthand i dont know anything about how or where i would begin with finding the bleeding. the mechanic said that 85% of the line is metal except for whats in the pump area. Is that right? do i want to pull the fuel tank down and look for bleeding there along with just changing the pump at the same time?
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    95redtrooper95redtrooper Member Posts: 3
    I have a 95 trooper that i recently crashed, i replaced the passenger side fender but i need the fender flare, with mudflap! It ruins the look of it and i can't find one anywhere!! Does anybody know where i can find one or does anybody have one on a parts trooper? Thanks
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    tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    If anyone is contemplating this one, I did it myself in about three hours. You need a torque wrench and some parts of it are a pain, but it takes about three or four hours. At least for a DIYer.

    I followed directions I found on planetisuzoo.

    I had had a CEL for a while and surging idle. My mechanic told me it was the MAF sensor, but that didn't seem right to me... then I started hearing the engine whistle. Dead giveaway.

    It hasn't run this smoothly in a long time.
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    tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    It's weird how easy it is to find the fender, and how hard it is to find the flare. Is this part still available from the dealer? Others speak highly of St. Charles Isuzu, and I know they mail-order parts.
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    jfrozenh2ojfrozenh2o Member Posts: 18
    okay, update on my failed startup progress for those interested. my 94 trooper with 168,000 miles runs strong, when its running at least. i have had trouble starting it, especially when its sat overnight or for a few hours. it will turn over but not start up. everything is well maintained, new/ filters, oil, pvc valve, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump and strainer, fuel filter, spark plugs, well basically you name it ive just about did it. and it still will not fire up, and now its gotten quite bad where i think im going to trash my starter by cranking on it so long before it fires up. i tested my fuel pressure, and over time it looses pressure, but not much, i think that there is a leaking fuel injector and it is flooding my spark plug out, and when i try to start it takes a good minute to burn up that excess fuel, but once done, fires right up and if i turn the trooper off and then back on it will fire right up everythime, once chambers are cleaned and dry.
    so i let the vehicle sit overnight and in the morning pulled all spark plugs out and smelled them all over and over. I found that one spark plug reaked of gasoline, so hopefully my theory is right and its a leaky fuel injector that is flooding the system and is the final cause to this problem. tommorrow i begin the replacement process. i will respond with a conclusion.- jes
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    johnwrightjohnwright Member Posts: 1
    Howdy folks,
    after the rains this last weekend, I went out to my trooper to discover that the passengers side floor were soaked with water. It's coming in thru the blower motor. I took the garden hose and soaked the windshield and the flow started again. I loosened some of the screws mounting the blower motor, and quite a bit of water came rushing out. Is this a pretty common problem ?. I've had the Trooper for several years and this is a first. Any suggestions as to what to do to rectify this problem. Thanks for any input. John
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    gahlgahl Member Posts: 7
    a word of advice to any who may think they need to replace the fuel pump in your Trooper - go to the passenger's side of the gas tank & find the electrical connector at the side of the tank - twice now - on two different Troopers I thought the fuel pump was shot - it looks like a well sealed connection but use a small screwdriver to open the snap & pull the connector apart - push it back together & there is a good chance it will now start - sure beats a new fuel pump install
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    wesbellmorewesbellmore Member Posts: 11
    2001 Trooper, 40,800 orig miles, first owner. No problems to date.

    Recently tried to engage shift-on-fly 4x4 but it would not engage. Dash light blinks normally but front wheels do not kick in and dash light just blinks until I give up and turn off shift-on-fly switch.

    No odd noises whatsoever, drives perfectly in 2-wheel drive.

    Have tried to engage 4x4 from dead stop, low speed, 60 mph, but no go. 4x4 has worked perfectly before, this problem just began with the first snowfall. (Typical!)

    What else could I try? :sick:
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    atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    It sounds like your vacuum operated actuator on the front axle is not working properly. It is attached to the front axle and when 4WD is applied it actuates the spline coupler to lock the front axle into proper mode. You can at least check to see if vacuum is applied when you shift into 4WD by checking the vacuum lines at the actuator. It is not uncommon for these actuators to stick.....the 4WD should be engaged periodically even when not needed to keep these parts working properly. One guys opinion. good luck
    imageSee more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com
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    wesbellmorewesbellmore Member Posts: 11
    This sounds like a great place to start...

    Question 1: How do I check for vacuum at the actuator? (Engine off/on? Tranny in park or not? etc. Don't want to run over myself.)

    Question 2: How can I "wiggle the actuator free" if it is 'stuck'.?

    Question 3: Where does the other end of the vacuum hose attach? I'd like to check both ends to make sure they are attached properly. Is it possible it might have been knocked off during pressure washing engine bay?

    Thanks for your help. Wes.
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    atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Very briefly, need a vacuum source (engine running), park....remember you are just checking to see if vacuum is getting to axle from t-case. Once you establish that vacuum is present and switching with your interior switch, then move on to repair.
    Wiggling as you call it is a little more interesting.
    Go to www.myisuzuparts.com, enter your vehicle info, then find Illustration figure 4-12, second image. It shows the axle assembly schematic. Before attempting to remove the actuator, I would definitely drive the vehicle long enough to warm it up and repeatedly try to cycle the SOTF system (after completing Question 1and finding the vacuum switching with the switch...I don't know which port has to have vacuum to work right, but obviously it should change when you cycle the switch.)).
    The t case has an electic shift motor and a module sits atop the case where the vacuum is switched by the shifting tcase. If you search www.myisuzuparts.com you can also identify it. You would want to work your way back to the vacuum source on the engine too....I don't know your motor but I think you should be getting the gist of this.
    The electric switch on the axle actuator is just to turn on or alert the driver and 4WD system as to the status of the axle, it does no other function.
    Also, If you have TOD system, I know even less about that except it can be hard to troubleshoot. Good luck.
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    ddahzddahz Member Posts: 1
    purchased a 99 trooper w/ 101,000 miles on it about 6 months ago. I had to replace the intake man. gaskets to get it to idle and run correctly. now i would like to get some decent gas mileage. i love the vehicle (its the luxury mod. w/ all the toys) and it does real well in the snow, but i can't live with 10-11 miles per gallon. any ideas on how to get that up to 18-19 mpg? computor chip, o2 sensors, different injectors, new plugs? Thanks in advance
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    domo1domo1 Member Posts: 1
    when heatis on no wam air is coming out have replaced the thermastat to no avail was told it could be the heater core but can not find the part to buy is there anyway the old one can be worked on to still be able to use it
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    wesbellmorewesbellmore Member Posts: 11
    I didn't see what year your Trooper is. I had a 1990 with same problem.

    Like you, I did some things to TRY to solve the problem...engine flush, rad flush, new thermostat...nothing worked.

    It turned out that the problem was with the valve that routes hot water from the engine through the heater core. Hot water was not getting into the heater core at all, so of course no heat would come out into the passenger compartment.

    I can't recall if the valve was actually built into the heater core or if it could be replaced separately, but pull out the heater core and have a look at that valve...I bet that's your problem.
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    atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    I suggest you eliminate the basic causes of poor mileage......check your tire pressures and regular maintenance items. The plugs may help, but there is no realistic way to raise mileage above the rated MPG from the manufacturer. IF your O2 sensors are bad, then that would cause your ecm to run in the cold mode and enrich the fuel mixture.....not good for mileage. I guess you would have to use your best judgement OR have a technician check the vehicle while operating with the proper Tech2 OBD to make sure it is performing correctly. One guys opinion.
    Good luck.
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    swooozswoooz Member Posts: 1
    I have dropped the Pan and drained the ATF but the resevour has not emptied out. Also where do I put the ATF fluid back in to fill it up?
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    atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Whoaaa.....we need a little more info on what year, model , engine and type of transmission or system you are working on. Once that is posted I am sure you will get some good replies.
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    notbrockyatesnotbrockyates Member Posts: 19
    Under 50K miles - yup. 2WD model. By the time I noticed fluid on the driveway and figured out it was the Trooper, it was too late. Leak found and fixed but the trans was gone - only had 1st and 2nd gear and it was not happy. Long story short, excellent rebuild by Gold Coast Transmissions in Ft. Lauderdale (top notch) so try these guys if you have to. Fuh-ortunately, my mechanical breakdown insurance covered the extensive cost minus deductible. Isuzu's only response (what's left of the dealers) was to inspect and if they felt like it, replace the whole unit under warranty (maybe) - (some mechanic who only knows how to unbolt and bolt on a tranny.) So ... watch the fluid leaks friends. If you need a picnic spot, you can eat off the floors at Gold Coast. Really impressive.
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    muttley1muttley1 Member Posts: 15
    Were there any other symptoms of the transmission problem aside from the fluid leak? And where was the leak itself?
    I also have a 2WD 2002 under 50k in South Florida. The only transmission issue I have noticed so far is a small clunk going from Park to Drive or vice versa. Gearshifts seem fine.
    Was thinking of having it checked out (recall the old AAMCO ads), and will run it by Gold Coast - anyone there in particular?
    Thanks.
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    jeremy14jeremy14 Member Posts: 1
    MY TROOPER STALLS AFTER WARMED UP, ONCE I LET OFF THE GAS IT WILL DIE. ALSO, THE IDLE AIR CONTROL KEEPS RUNNING EVEN WHEN THE CAR IS TURNED OFF. ANY HELP PLEASE
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    matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    I really hope someone can help me. I ran into a situation today with my 1990 Isuzu Trooper 5 speed manual. With a 2.8 liter V6.

    Today I stopped to wash my car at the car wash. After I did so, I jumped on the hiway. About a miles down the freeway, My vehicle stalled. On the side of the freeway, I went thru the process of problem solving the situation. This is what I had done....

    First and foremost, I checked the distributor and router for moisture. In doing so, I found no moisture. I then checked all the plug wires, and everything was secure and dry. After that, I went ahead and checked to see if I had blown a fuse. In doing so, nothing was blown. I also checked the fabric wire fuses and rearanged the relays next to the fuses. Then I started to think that there was fule pump problem. I went ahead and put some fuel in the carb from a gas can I always keep for safety purposes. I added not too much and not to little. In craking it over, nothing fired. It just turned over. So then I got thinking, maybe my coil was shot. I went ahead and purchased a new one at the auto store and replaced the old one. To all avail, It still woudn't fire up. All it's doing is turning over. In the end, I ended up having to have it towed home.

    So here I am, and I just don't know what to make of it all. When I look back to what I did at the car wash. I didn't open the hood this time to wash down the engine, so I don't know how water could have got anywhere. One thing I did do was spray under the engine and the under carrage. I always do so here in Colorado. Esspecially when the snow and mud collects underneeth.

    If there is anyone out there that can help me troublshoot this problem, It would be soooo greatly appreciated....

    Thanks a bunch....;)

    Maddy :confuse:

    I
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    tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Did you check the coils, battery and ground connections or sensors? You could be shorting out some of the sensors giving false reading that prevent the car from running.

    Anyone else have ideas?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
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    wesbellmorewesbellmore Member Posts: 11
    Hi again... I found the drawings you mentioned...very helpful, thank you!

    UPDATE: I have not crawled under the beast yet, HOWEVER, yesterday when I started up and drove away, I noticed the 4x4 was fully engaged! (Dash light was fully on, traction on ice was obvious.) I switched 4x4 OFF while driving and tried to engage in again, but it did not. This has happened twice...4x4 will engage from a cold start. I tried a few things like putting in park, hit dash switch and drive off, but no 4x4. Engaging in reverse, no. Hitting button multiple times, no.

    What do you think of this, and what else do you think I should try?

    Also, this is an '01 with under 50,000 miles. Do you think a warranty applies?

    Thanks. Wes
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    atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, I don't know a bit about warranties, so you would have to contact a dealer or find another owner who might know.
    I don't have your year or type of front axle, but to make a guess on what you describe, I would ask a couple more questions. When you hit the 4X button, do you hear the transfer case shifting in and out of 4X? You can listen with the vehicle sitting still, it does not have to be moving to shift. The electic shift motor should cycle or attempt to when you hit the button.
    If you hear the transfer working consistently, then I would next check the vacuum being applied to the axle.
    It could be that after sitting, the vacuum is gone and on start up, and if the vehicle is in 4X then the axle shift actuator is reacting to that command and does not have to overcome the vacuum that pulls the axle out of engagement. IOW somewhere there may be a sticking valve. It could be the one on the trans case that reacts to the trans case shifting into 4H or 4LO and sends vacuum to one side of the actuator. I am not that familiar with the actuator system, so I don't know if the actuator is spring loaded one way or the other or whether vacuum in the other direction is needed. I would research that a little more, by carefully looking at the axle actuator and pulling the vacuum hoses while the transfer case is shifted into different positions. You should be able to determine what is happening (or not). Remember that to be safe, park on level surface (or ramp) with park brake on and chock the rear wheels at least. You don't have to have the vehicle in drive to operate the transfer case and thus the axle. Vacuum should at least be present or not depending on the button position. Listen before doing anything for vacuum leaks. Have someone you trust shut off the engine while you are listening down there to hear if you hear a leak as might be present.
    I am no expert,but I think this will cover the basic things. Be careful if you elect to do it, good luck
    These are pretty easy things to check first in the event you don't have warranty coverage.
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    renet10renet10 Member Posts: 13
    I have replace the alternator belt 2 times. I still get the squeal. :mad: I tighten and tighten but still the squeal. :mad: The last belt broke. Is there anything else that controls the tension of the alternator belt that will eliminate the squeal and get my amps up? :sick:
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    boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    The belt might fail prematurely if over tightened.
    ..
    Are you having a problem getting enough amps from your alternator? The belt squealing sounds like the alternator, if working properly, is making a lot of amps which is why it is hard to turn. Maybe you have a short circuit or too many loads (120Vac inverter running something big?) demanding excessive current. If you want lots more current there are after market alternators that can be made to fit that can produce 200Amps maybe more, some can act as a welder too.
    ..
    It could be excessive mechanical friction preventing the alternator from turning freely, that would make the alternator body hot.
    ..
    It could be not enough friction on your pulley. If the pulley is worn out or coming apart then the belt might not fit securely and that could make it slip. If this is the case the slipping pulley will be hot.
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    atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Are you sure it is alternator? Reason I ask is Power Steering is right above and sound you hear could be that? . Also I would check the V grooves on the crankshaft...they may be full of melted belt which will have to be removed in order to get the proper friction. I have seen this on the AC belt as well.If not, you may have bearing in fan going.
    Hope this helps. Good luck.
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    dnomch459dnomch459 Member Posts: 2
    I bought a 96 trooper without an owners manual and I want to use the four wheel drive in the bad weather, but I don't know how to properly put it in four wheel drive and then take it out. I read a couple of posts here that said something about driving it in reverse, etc. Sorry, I don't know much at all about cars, and I've never had a four wheel drive vehicle before and I don't want to do anything to ruin my trooper......
    Thanks for any help
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    atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Welcome to the forum. This is a good place to get ideas and help from other owners.
    I am not sure when shift on the fly became the 4WD for Isuzu, but in any event, have you looked at the drivers side sun visor....there were directions on it from the factory for 4WD useage.
    If your front hubs do not have any language or knobs on them, then you likely have shift on the fly.
    You must stop the vehicle to shift in to or out of 4WD. If you have manual hubs, you should lock them first before shifting into 4WD
    If your hubs say auto hub on them, then you do not have shift on the fly, and the following applies.
    .
    Once you have shifted into 4WD while stopped, you may then proceed to drive and the front hubs on the auto hub will engage after about 1 tire revolution. they then stay engaged until one of the following occurs:
    1>) You stop, disengage the 4WD and then back up about 1 tire revolution (9 feet or so). The autohubs will disengage and then you may drive forward normally. If you don't or can't reverse after shifting out of 4WD, no harm will come to the vehicle, but your front axle will stay engaged until such time as you do reverse.
    2.) While in 4WD, you may need to back up for some reason. IF you do, the auto hubs will unlock briefly while you reverse direction, and then reengage while going in reverse. There is a brief time while you are not in 4WD, but for all intents and purposes, it generally poses no problem for the normal driver. IF you then shift into drive from reverse, the auto hubs will again disengage briefly and then reengage going forward.
    I hope this helps.
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    dnomch459dnomch459 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you very much. I will follow your directions. I'm so glad I found this site.
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    atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Glad to help. For future reference, always include your year, model, engine and transmission info in the message. It helps all to know exactly what vehicle you have, and later others will know what the post and answers mean.
    One guys opinion!
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    watcordwatcord Member Posts: 1
    I am looking for the complete information to How to replace the thermostat in my 02 Izuzu Trooper S. Engine 3.5 automatic transmission

    Some machanic stated that this is a big job to do, but I do not know if is true or not If someone can give me a tip I will thank you very much.

    thank watcord :sick:
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    atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Well, it is kind of tough to give you complete information if you need the service manual for your vehicle. I don't have your engine but I can tell you that on the newer Isuzu 3.2 and 3.5 engines it is necessary to remove the Intake plenum in order to access the thermostat, so it is more work than necessary on most vehicles. If a competant mechanic familiar with Isuzu engines is available, I would heed his advice on cost. If not, you are putting yourself up so be careful.
    Best advice I can give you is make sure whoever does it replaces the gaskets for intake and the thermostat, and use only the OEM thermostat. As for gaskets, most prefer either OEM or Felpro for quality and fit.
    Hope this helps.
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    atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi again, I forgot to welcome you to the forum. Also, use the search option and try going to www.myisuzuparts.com for part nos and illustrations of Isuzu vehicles. They are both good resources and are free.
    Good luck!
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Isuzu: Out of Business Next Year
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Here's the full press release and some more links:

    Isuzu to quit light-vehicle market in U.S (Straightline)
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    lob_sanglob_sang Member Posts: 2
    hello,i am from asia, i have equiped my SUV with a used rear differential of trooper.But recently, i suddenly found the differential seal is broken and the gear oil spilled. So i wanna replace the new differential seal. The question is i do not know which type trooper it is. and someone tell me it's the UBS17 or UBS25 trooper,and the brake of this rear diff is disk, and the shock is armor plate. i also measure the diff seal, the inner diameter is 44.92-44.94mm; the outer diameter is 78.00-79.00mm. Anyone can tell me which type of seal can suit the diff perfectly? and the diff is belong to which type of trooper? and the parts number of this seal is ? i am so appreciate.
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