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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, welcome to the Forum.

    You don't say what year your trooper is or the year that you swapped the used differential from, but, regardless,

    go to www.myisuzuparts.com and enter the details of your vehicle and you can look up the part numbers you need.....or compare to see if there are any differences.

    If I remember, the rear diff in a Trooper is a 12 bolt Isuzu corporate axle, so you ahve the removeable 3rd member, and they are pretty much the same, except that depending on the year, Troopers were equipped with the limited slip diff as standard.

    Hope this helps. Good luck.
  • lob_sanglob_sang Member Posts: 2
    i found it, finally. Thank you for your help. so apperciate......
  • stevetreestevetree Member Posts: 4
    Idles rough, hard to start, codes read:
    P0171 O2 Sensor – System too Lean (Bank 1)
    P0172 O2 Sensor – System too Rich (Bank 1)
    P0174 O2 Sensor – System too Lean (Bank 2)
    P0175 O2 Sensor – System too Rich (Bank 2)
    Any ideas?
    Thanks
  • costello1costello1 Member Posts: 60
    Isuzu was abused by GM ..... I am on my 3rd Tropper , great rigs !! . Is $600.00 a good price for 90 k service from a remaining Izuzu dealer ?? Thanks
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    I went to the website OBD-codes.com and posted your codes since there did not seem to be any other input on your question, asking for possible causes, as I am not familiar with your vehicle....I have an older Trooper. I got the response : low fuel pressure, vaccum leaks, MAF sensor

    I assume these are the most common causes for the codes coming up, but the low fuel pressure and vacuum leaks are certainly the most likely of the three, I would think. Hope this helps.
  • stevetreestevetree Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for your response. I replaced the fuel and air filters. Could this be due to a blown intake manifold gasket?
  • matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    Hi,
    I don't know if you remember me or not. I was the one who left the post I have down below. You gave me advice on replacing my ignitian (distributor) module. When I did so, my Trooper started like a charm. I thought it ok to email you back because you seem very knowledgible in the subject.Though the fix you gave worked, I seem to have the same problem now but a little different.

    The other day I started my truck up and went to a friends house. While I was sitting there waiting in my truck, it all of a sudden stopped running. When I tried to restart, it wouldn't do so. It just turned over. After about an hour, I went out to try to start it, and it started right up. When I headed on home, I drove about 5 miles, and than it stalled again. I did go ahead and problem solve everything listed in my previous post below, but nothing worked. I even went ahead and replaced the ignitian (distributor) module with a new one, and still it wouldn't start. Of course once again, I had to have my truck towed home. That next morning, I went out to see if my truck would start, and it started right up. I let my truck run for about a half hour, and it did not stall. It almost seems like it happens when my truck gets warm.

    So here. Not sure what to do. I'm afraid to drive my truck because I don't want it to stall again.

    If there is any advice you can give, it would be a great help...

    Tracy
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -
    I really hope someone can help me. I ran into a situation today with my 1990 Isuzu Trooper 5 speed manual. With a 2.8 liter V6.

    Today I stopped to wash my car at the car wash. After I did so, I jumped on the hiway. About a miles down the freeway, My vehicle stalled. On the side of the freeway, I went thru the process of problem solving the situation. This is what I had done....

    First and foremost, I checked the distributor and router for moisture. In doing so, I found no moisture. I then checked all the plug wires, and everything was secure and dry. After that, I went ahead and checked to see if I had blown a fuse. In doing so, nothing was blown. I also checked the fabric wire fuses and rearanged the relays next to the fuses. Then I started to think that there was fule pump problem. I went ahead and put some fuel in the carb from a gas can I always keep for safety purposes. I added not too much and not to little. In craking it over, nothing fired. It just turned over. So then I got thinking, maybe my coil was shot. I went ahead and purchased a new one at the auto store and replaced the old one. To all avail, It still woudn't fire up. All it's doing is turning over. In the end, I ended up having to have it towed home.

    So here I am, and I just don't know what to make of it all. When I look back to what I did at the car wash. I didn't open the hood this time to wash down the engine, so I don't know how water could have got anywhere. One thing I did do was spray under the engine and the under carrage. I always do so here in Colorado. Esspecially when the snow and mud collects underneeth.

    If there is anyone out there that can help me troublshoot this problem, It would be soooo greatly appreciated....

    Thanks a bunch....

    Maddy
  • stevetreestevetree Member Posts: 4
    It was the intake manifold gasket; replaced under warranty in one afternoon.
  • gahlgahl Member Posts: 7
    the first, easiest and cheapest thing to try is to locate the two pin connector to the fuel pump - if you look over the passenger side rear tire you can see it on the side of the gas tank nearer the top - it looks like a good connection but you really want to take the time to pull it apart & re connect it - this is a typical problem with Troopers of many years - pulling it apart & re connecting it cleans the connection but if the problem persists replace the connector or just hard wire it [ solder it ] - good luck
  • matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    I did go ahead and add a little gas to the carb manually. Would it not try to fire up when I added the gas to the carborator?

    Matthew
  • matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    I was wondering. I have a Auto Zone right by my house. If I take the chance and drive my truck down there, will they be able to plug my truck in to check for ECM errors? Do you think with my issue, it would be a good thing to do? I was able to download the error code sheet from the internet.

    Tracy
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    If you have OBDll then AZ may be able to check for you. If you are pre 96 then chances go way down they will have the right adapter. Doesn't cost anything to ask!! Good luck.
  • renet10renet10 Member Posts: 13
    Went for inspection and the mechanic said the u joints won't make it through another inspection. I'm not a mechanic but I thought the u joints were in the rear. Anyway took trooper to my boyfriend and confirmed u joints in rear but checked front for play. We did notice a very slight play in front on both sides(side to side and up and down) but wondered if this is normal. Tires are not wearing or feathered. We have never touched the bearings and don't want to err. Oh, tie rods and ball joints seem okay. Any ideas? :confuse:
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Ok, are you sure he did not say the CV joints, which are located in the front axles? Worn CV joints would not influence the alignment of your truck. If they are worn, you would probably only notice them if you are in 4WD and turning as you drive.... a shuddering and or clicking noise often accompanies their failure. Look at the rubber boots around them for tears or leaks. It is a big job to repair them, many people just buy the rebuilt replacement shafts. If you don't do much off roading that is probably the cheapest way to go.
    To check for ball joint wear, jack up each side of the front until there is clearance under the tire, slide a pry bar or other lever under the tire and try lifting it or moving it in or out. Any slop while doing this would indicate worn ball joints or bushings. Have someone observe the mounting locations while doing this to detect where the movement is occuring. The inner and outer wheel bearings require adjustment periodically, along with lubrication. I think Isuzu recommends every 30,000 miles or so. Make sure they are adjusted and that movement, if any, of the the wheel is not due to loose bearings. HTH
  • bostnwhalrbostnwhalr Member Posts: 128
    I'm in the process of selling my 2000 Limited 4wd and a buyer was interested in exporting the vehicle overseas. Any idea what country would most demand the Trooper?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Troopers were rebadged in other countries, but many are rh drive. Britain and Australia have active Trooper/Bighorn Forums. HTH
  • oldgoat3oldgoat3 Member Posts: 4
    i just did a motor swap for one of my best customers. it is a 98 trooper. before i put the used motor in i thought it wise to put a fresh belt on. to make a long story short, it is running like sh** and has no power at all. i tore it down and the crank is one tooth off the new belt from gates has the typical 2 solid lines and one dotted if you put the cams in the correct place, the dotted line for crank mark will not make it down to the notch on the crank pulley, so the first time i put it in one tooth off but on the line. the second time i make sure all marks (cams and crank gear/pulley were dead on to the marks on the motor, either way no power rough running. now with all marks on gears correct but one tooth off according to belt im get a slight puffing back through the air cleaner box, which tells me i have intake valves open on the compression stroke. i had the same problem a while back on a 3.2 rodeo. what is the secrete or trick to getting these POS correct? help please !! my customer is a young sweety who is balling her eyes out since friday!
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Looking for opinions on what to do with this truck as well as thoughts about the transmission problem...

    My parents bought my 1998 Trooper w/Performance Package from me a couple years ago. It had 120k miles and very very few problems in all the time I had it. Since they took it over, it has had nothing but problems.

    My Dad is going to get rid of it because of the latest problem -- trans is not working right, rarely shifts into 2nd gear and won't go past that. I don't know the details, but the local shop said a rebuilt transmission would run $800-1,000 and a new trans would be quite a bit more, I think my Dad said $2-3k.

    That price quote for the rebuilt trans seems VERY reasonable -- is it way too low?

    I think the problem may have started when my Dad had the trans flushed about a year ago, approx 130k miles on vehicle. I warned him not to do it

    My Dad is leaning toward donating the vehicle but with the current IRS rules, I don't think he will get much out of this.

    Selling it might be an option, but who would buy a truck that needs a new transmission? I'd love to get him to fix it then sell it, but I don't think he is willing to sink any more money into it.

    Parting the truck out might not be worth it, but I wanted to explore all options. I've convinced him to let me help remove the running boards and sell those on Craigslist, so that's a start.

    Overall, the truck is in solid shape -- the TOD system still works, everything inside is functional and the upholstery is still in nice shape. One ding on right rear above the taillight and some bubbling rust at the bottom of the window on rear door. Other than that the exterior is pretty sound.
  • oldgoat3oldgoat3 Member Posts: 4
    the trans in that trooper is a gm trans the one im doing just had one doen before she bought it. that guy had one completely done converter and all for 1400.00 that was labor for the R & R as well. if it has a 3.5 i learning that these paticular motors have all kinds of other issues such as ab-normal oil use, piston slap, all kinds of stuff. nothing personal to the guys here on this forum but i think over all the 3.2 and the 3.5 are junk motors terrible duability and dependability.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    the 3.5 is a different timing arrangement as far as the cam to timing pulley....it is a different ratio so since you ran the engine and it was off, it is not as easy to start over. Basically you have to get bot timing pulleys back to the right sequence. it will require you to either remove the timing cover OR use the "feel" method to get each cam timed to the pistons position. There is a method to do this, but I am on vacation and do not have access to it now. Try going to planetisuzu.com and search the engine and drivetrain forum for "timing belt" or similar.
    There is an awes ome post there that gives an easy description on how to do it.
  • oldgoat3oldgoat3 Member Posts: 4
    thanx mike to make clear i do understand the ratio and how it chages as soon as you start the motor. but, tdc is still tdc and both or should i say all three times i have re-done the belt i have completely tore it down. and you can get to the entire set up and just put the vibration damper and rad. back in (so trany lines dont pump fluid al over) and fire it up to check. only the markes on the belt will not line up again the marks on the gears and how they are matched up to the marks on the heads and front cover for the crank gear will line back up when you are on the compeasion stroke at TDC. that is where it is now and dead on right. im thinking that the cams have to be a half tooth advanced in order for the crank to be where "they" want it. im going to head back out and give it hell thanx for the tip on planetisuzu. ....ross
  • 1999trooper1999trooper Member Posts: 4
    I have owned a 1999 trooper 3.5L for 2 years and it currently has 137k on it. My son took it out for a spin and brought it back with a very loud clacking noise coming from the engine. Any ideas? It has to be serious, my real question is - is this motor worth rebuilding? Are there any GM engines I might throw in this thing instead?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    When the timing belt tensioner pusher goes bad, it can sound like a bad rod knock. If you rev the motor over 2500 RPM and it diminishes or goes away, that is a pretty good sign it is the belt and tensioner. It is pretty common, and while it can be a little pricey if you pay someone to do it, It is not a bad job. Good idea to do the water pump and idler pulley and tensioner pulley at the same time. HOpe this helps.
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    I don't think there's much of the demand for the gas version outside of the US (maybe Russia but I wouldn't risk it.) Most (and the Troopers were rare to begin with) had diesel commonrail engines and those you could potentially resell. The EU has outrageous prices for cars and SUVs especially, so any European country would be ok but, again, gas prices are the death sentence for the Trooper unless converted to liquified natural gas, so the Netherlands, Germany or Poland (where this is cheap and common) are safe bets.

    It pays to export RAVs, CRVs, even US Benzes and BMWs and especially Subarus to Europe now. The prices are literally triple on some of these, so even after all the fees (transport being the least of all) you can still make a good profit.
  • ghost329ghost329 Member Posts: 9
    I'M NEW TO THIS AND HOPING I CAN BE HELPED. LAST MAY MY 99 TROOPER STARTED HAVING ENGINE PROBLEMS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF COLORADO. I WAS TOLD THAT IT WOULD BE BEST TO TAKE IT INTO A MITSUBISHI DEALERSHIP THAT A FRIEND OF MINE HAD GOOD RELATIONSHIPS WITH. WHEN I GOT IT THERE THEY TOLD ME THAT THE WHOLE ENGINE HAD TO BE REPLACED. IT WAS MAKING KNOCKING NOISES. A COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO I WANTED TO DRIVE IT DOWN THE ROAD FOR A 2ND OPINION BUT NOW IT WON'T START. WHEN I TRY TO CHARGE IT THE RADIO LIGHTS AND STUFF WILL POP ON FOR A SPLIT SECOND AND THAT'S AS FAR AS IT WILL GO. ANY SUGGESTIONS ON WHAT WOULD CAUSE IT NOT TO START AND WHAT DO YOU SUGGEST FOR THE ENGINE PRICE THEY TOLD ME 3000 FOR USED 4000 FOR NEW?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Welcome to the forum.

    Posts written in ALL CAPS are hard to read so I suggest you not use them. Many people just skip over posts in all caps.

    A friend of mine got a crate engine for his older F-150 for $5,000 a few months ago. That was a Ford rebuild and came with a 3/36 warranty. The no-name crate engine was going to cost $4,000 installed with a 1/12 warranty. That's in Boise - labor may be cheaper in your area.
  • ghost329ghost329 Member Posts: 9
    Hey thanks, that makes since about the caps.
    So do you have any suggestions about getting it started because I don't want to have to toll it everywhere to get estimates and all that. Do you think it might be the ignition or starter and if so how hard would it be to replace.
    I live on a military base and they have an autocraft shop where I would have all the tools to do it.
    Is it worth a shot to try replace one at a time and see if it works or just take it in?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Ah, military - ok, that explains the all caps. :)

    I'm not much of a mechanic so ... I've hung around a base wood working shop a few times and the people there were always willing to help, so why not ask around there?

    Don't know about getting it started either - it sounds like it's cranking so maybe a fuel issue? But if the engine is toast, I don't know. It's not clear to me whether you've tried to jump start it or just are charging the battery. Maybe the battery has a bad cell along with the other problems. Tried any starting fluid?

    Can any Troopers owners help?
  • budermbuderm Member Posts: 9
    i have a 2000 isuzu trooper and all of a sudden from out of nowhere, my power locks on the doors wont lock. They will all unlock both from the remote and the inside door unlock switches, however they wont lock either way. I manually have to lock the doors. Any help / suggestions?

    Also does anyone know a place to get the speed sensors (auto 4wd TOD) for the trooper other than from the dealer?

    Thanks
  • 1999trooper1999trooper Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the advice. I eased into, everything fine with the timing belt. Decided to pull motor and found a spun rod bearing on #1 cylinder. Now if i can found out how to remove timing belt with out losing the timing settings, i will remove the crank and have it turned and install new bearings and put this thing back on the road.
  • dmitrycdmitryc Member Posts: 6
    Guys,

    The passenger power seat stopped working where the driver seat works fine. Any ideas if it has its' own fuse or what could be the problem?
  • serranotserranot Member Posts: 113
    Check the connection under the seat where the electrics plug in.
  • isu2isu2 Member Posts: 8
    does anyone know the size of the rubber hose that connects from the steel lines to the radiator. need to buy but dont want to take off line till I have one
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Offhand, I don't know the size, but I would guess either 1/4" or 5/16". Just measure it at the exposed steel line.....if you don't have calipers or a micrometer, you should be able to eyeball the size with a tape measure from the bottom. HTH
  • marcy73marcy73 Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering.. I just bought A used 1999 isuzu trooper and man.. is it really this bad on gas? this vehicle looks to be in really good condition and i have had it for a couple of months ...it starting to make wierd noises.. knocks here and there.. now there is this high pitch musical sound that appears here and there.. sometimes with a knock sometimes without.. does anyone know of what this could be? its so big i cant tell where the noises are coming from sometimes.. like i sware sometimes it sounds like im draggin something..
    thanks,
    m
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, it would help to know how many miles and what type of transmission is in your vehicle. The symptoms you describe could be attributed to poor gasoline, failing timing belt/pusher and possibly a bad steering pump or alternator, so any information like service to trans, parts replaced, etc; will help generate interest in helping diagnose the problem. HTH
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    I was laughing hard reading your post especially the "dragging" part ;)

    I think that, realistically, only H2s, Monteros, and older Kia Sorentos can edge the Trooper (though very slightly) in how much gas they use.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    I have a 2000 Trooper LS. My gas mileage averages from a low of 16.5 to as high as 18.5. Not bad for a large, heavy box. The numbers have run about the same over 130,000 miles. Mine is 2wd and it seems that 4wd or TOD versions might get about 1 MPG less on average.

    Have you had the brakes checked? If you have a bad caliper that is dragging, that could really hurt the mileage. Have spark plugs ever been changed? They are good for 100K miles max. Also probably need to check that they are the correct ones. Reports of changing to non-specified plugs can cause problems. You might also try some fuel system cleaner, either have it done or run several batches of injector cleaner through.

    Is your Trooper displaying a CEL? If so, code from that might point to a problem.
  • egyptgerryegyptgerry Member Posts: 22
    Hi there Guys,i need to change either the steering idler or the steering box in my 1994 Trooper 3.1td any ideas on what they are like to change,Any ideas will be welcome.Gerry in the Uk
  • maude3maude3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 90 Isuzu trooper. My oil is mixed with coolant. Before this and now my car is going through tons of coolant. I'm pretty sure it's the head gasket. First has any one used the liquid sealer? I thought of trying this first to get me by till I can get a new head gasket or better yet a new engine. Is it ok to drive it till I get this done? I just bought the car a month and half ago and unfortunately the seller didn't tell me about this problem.
  • egyptgerryegyptgerry Member Posts: 22
    Forget liquid sealer,Afraid to say your head gasket is shot,Looks like you need to strip the head off and get it skimmed then fit a new gasket set,also to be honest i would not drive it as dont forget the coolant is also going into the sump,oil floats on water so you could end up with a sump full of water and the crank shaft bearings would not like that and could sease the engine,Sorry to be the bearer of bad news,Regards,GERRY
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    X 2 on the advice from egyptgerry. Don't continue to drive it. The antifreeze will dilute the oil and your bearings and rockers will be shot. Plus you don't know what the engine has been through before you owned it. It is a pretty common problem on the 2.4 and 2.6 motors. There are aftermarket heads (AMC and others) available that are made heavier and pretty much eliminate warpage and fracturing common in the Isuzu head. HTH.
  • egyptgerryegyptgerry Member Posts: 22
    Glad 2 brains are better than 1,But really the 2.4 and the 2.6 where not the strongest of motors,I used to have them for my business but changed over a few years ago now to the 3.1 td but i do have a 3.0 v6 that runs on LPG gas,gives no problem and the co2 emissions are so low it passes our annual test here with flying colors
  • canepolecanepole Member Posts: 1
    On my '99 Trooper 3.2L I have removed about all that is needed, but can't figure out how the heck to get the plastic plate with the timing marks off to get at the water pump. Looks like I need to remove the pully, which is bolted to the crankshaft. if so, how do I stop it from spinning?

    Any tips will be appreciated.

    Thanks
  • egyptgerryegyptgerry Member Posts: 22
    what you are saying is ,that you need to undo the large nut holding the pulley on,When you try to undo it the pulley is turning if that is what is happening then you need to put a spanner on it and give the spanner a quick smack on the end with a hammer it will normally shock the nut loose,Hope this is the same as the earlier Diesel motors but if not then please wait for some more info from other Guys here,Regards Gerry.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Yes, you do have to remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer and to do that the large bolt that holds it on. If all else fails, you can put a breaker bar on it and wedge it against the frame and bump the starter to break it loose. Be very careful. It is a Right hand thread (normal) so be prepared. Use a puller to get the balancer off, although giving it a tug by hand sometimes works, but usually a puller is needed. Do not pry or hammer on it....it can be damaged and there is a rubber insert that will let the outer balancer become misaligned if it is pryed on.
    Make sure you use the right marks on the rear timing belt cover for your model engine....there are both dohc and sohc marks. HTH.
  • kenwoolseykenwoolsey Member Posts: 1
    I'm in a kenundrum here... found a 2000 Trooper Limited with of course all bells and whistles... automatic... about 120k miles.. Test drove... it drove great... was going about 35 or so and decided to gun it... the truck lunged a bit, then nothing, then lunged again, then nothing, then fine and dandy sped right up... felt like a fuel isue... like water in tank or something??? Is this a more serious problem then I'm thinking it might be??? Carfax says no real issues, and that Timing Belt/water pump replaced at 88k...under a service waranty, and that it has had 2 other service waranties contracts bought following auction to dealer to new buyer with lien/loan owners... Air conditioner also didn't blow out cold air, thought that may just be a recharge issue... also needs new ball joints according to safety check... price $4900... thought I'd purchase a 3 year service contract to cover my butt if I do purchase it.... what do you all think???? Does the fact that it' made it so many miles mean it's not a lemon like others I've read about here??? I read so much about either the thing blowing up in the first 60k or so miles (tranny, engine, etc) and then I read others saying they've never had a problem... is this one that maybe isn't a problem???? I've always been one who's owned cars I've loved with no problems only to later find out, after a hundred k, that Consumer Reports says they're the worst ever in reliability... so I need YOUR opinions....
  • automaticsucksautomaticsucks Member Posts: 4
    We have a 2001 and love it!!
    However, the problem sounds like the transmission....
  • nedem2468nedem2468 Member Posts: 1
    Hey - I have the 2001 model, hate to say it but sounds like the transmission....I've had mine rebuilt twice now, well warranty has had it rebuilt.
  • desimonesdesimones Member Posts: 18
    Don't know about the do it yourself issue, but I purchased a complete set of OEM brakes for my 2000 Trooper from an internet parts whole seller for around $270. A local reputable service shop is doing the complete install for another $230. What's with the $15000!
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