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Comments
Hope ya'll are havin' fun....as for me, I'm off to install some tank racks in the boat..*wave*
-Fred
Cheers,
Con
Why is the maximum payload so low at 980 lbs? That's nothing for a truck.
When are '02 models coming out and what are the expected changes?
What current deals (rebates and financing) are there? Edmunds lists none but I know Isuzu discounts these trucks a great deal at certain times.
What are the best options for a roof rack? I have to have one. I can't believe Isuszu doesn't have one standard. Yes it's a tall vehivle, but so are other SUVs and they all have them.
Any deals in Southern Ca for an '01?
Which version do most people get? S, LS or limited?
Thanks!
No roof rack due to rollover risk false impressions set by Consumers reports. Outside the US they come with racks as an option. I will be importing the real Isuzu ones for around $225 from australia. Also a few people on http://isuzu-suvs.com have installed racks (see gallery) that look stock.
Payload is a suggestion. If you flip over to the owner's area I posted up a recent towing experience with my truck fully loaded down and 980 is BS as far as how much it can carry.
-mike
I agree that the roof rack is very cool. I doubt that it would cause the truck to tip over.
At first when I got the truck, I was kind of careful going around corners. Now after the first 950 miles, I find myself wheeling around corners pretty handily. More confidence in the truck's ability. Not being careless, just that the truck can handle more than it seems in the first drive.
The 3rd row seat is cool. But I don't like the way the seats are mounted on the wall. The Honda Odyssey and Mitsu Montero have the best design for a 3rd row seat...Fold out of the floor.
BTW, what is the best way to clean the painted wheels on a 2001 Trooper S? I have been just using soap and water since I am worried about using some of those sprays even though some of them claim that they are for "painted and chrome wheels". But is is hard to get in the tight areas like around the lug nuts with soap and water. And of course, after I get over cleaning my brand new truck every few days, the wheels WILL get filthy. What do the rest of you Trooper owners do? Do you know from experience which brand of spray wheel cleaner is OK to use and won't peel or damage the "painted" surface of the wheel?
I'm concerned because my last car, a Mazda Millenia had chrome wheels that were peeling. I was told by a aftermarket wheel shop that this happened because the previous owner used sprays. Don't know if it is true or not.
Be sure to check out the meet the members area of the owners club here on Edmunds. I posted up about towing a 5000lb+ trailer this past weekend.
-mike
http://independent4x.com/
Please keep in mind these should be welded on and the can support the weight of one side of the truck. If your not planning on going off road then nerf bars are what you want (the normal tube style)
-mike
Next Trooper =
New Name
Yukon Clone
GM built most likely
Unless of course you live outside North America, then you'll continue to get a Japan Built Trooper aka Bighorn, Jackaroo.
-mike
see http://www.pureisuzu.com/nurf_bars2.htm for more info
-mike
I understand perhaps Matt can provide something. Anyone know his e-mail address or phone number?
Matt can be reached at nytrooper@hotmail.com
I emailed Matt a few days ago and he will be making Boulder Bars/step for my 01 Trooper(just like Crunchy's) plus a rear matching hitch mounted bar/step.
Someone asked me what Boulder Bars are so I will try to explain(does not mean its right though)
Boulder Bars: Bars to protect the sides of the vehicle from rocks(Matt calls them "Rocker Bars") which mean they need to be strong. The trend now is that boulder bars are square and not round anymore(Nerf Bars) because of the better ground clearance.
There are a couple of side bar/step makers for the newer Troopers (Waag.com, overlander.com, and the M company I don't like) as I was thinking about these but after getting hit in the rear, I figure I want more than just a step for the sides and rear and more protection as well. Since the Boulder bars from Indy4x are about the same price, here I am. Matt can make both square and round bars too.
Good Luck,
Con
01 Trooper LS
• AC - cycles VERY loudly and sometimes as often as every 10-15 seconds. Accompanied by very loud hissing noise outside the truck
• AC - there is a noise that sounds like a 10-speed clicking that is proportional to the blower fan speed, although the noise doesn't seem to emanate from the vents. Sounds like it originates from under the glove box area.
• Engine - seems to be running rough. Idles rough at starts (shifter vibrates quite a bit) and at other times. Sometimes I get a low rasp undertone to the engine when accelerating, and sometimes I get a dieseling sound. was told by my service guy that this is a common complaint that Isuzu is trying to fix. Is that true?
• Transmission - sudden jerky downshift at stoplights - feels like someone is kicking my butt right as I come to a stop. They also tell me that this is "normal", though I didn't notice it before.
anyone have any ideas?
The ten-speed sound reminded me of the time I had a clicking/buzzing sound from my blower motor. Took the thing apart thinking I would have to replace it due to bad bearings...turned out to be a leaf caught in the fan, clicking like a card on the spokes of a bicycle wheel.
The other stuff does not sound normal to me, but I don't have the climate control system on my 99...
Andy
00 Limited 2WD
I have not noticed anything strange with the engine or tranny. The only thing that I noticed is that the "grade logic" system does work in the tranny as well I go down a big hill, the tranny does seem to "engine brake" like a stick shift would.
Cheers,
Con
01 Isuzu Trooper LS
I do have a question. I ordered 6 oil filters, 6 crankcase drain washers, and a couple air filter elements from St. Charles. Great service and good prices. But I digress. I've used Slick 50/Duralube type additives in my other vehicles over the last 8 years. I noticed an increase of over 1 mpg in my pickup when I first added the slick 50 at the 5,000 mile mark. But I use conventional oil in those vehicles. If I go with Mobil 1 in the Trooper is the slick 50 recommended, not recommended, not necessary, potentially damaging? I'd like to do the oil changes about every 5,000 miles (filter and oil). BTW, when I checked the oil at about 2,600 miles, I was down about halfway between the "add" mark and the "full" mark. Anyone know how much it takes to move it from "add" to "full" ?
Thanks,
Charlie
Cheers,
Con
What I have been told, between the add and full marks is 1quart so you are only down 1/2 quart which is good. I am lucky cause I am only down 1/4 quart. I did not baby the truck but did not redline it either. I took it on two 500+ mile trips which might have helped the breakin. Reports on Land Rover Defenders is that the ones with "hard" miles on them are better than babied ones because the engine have less sludge in them because of the design. I wonder if the Isuzu engines are that way. I currently have 2,500 miles on it only after 6weeks of ownership and only have 1/4q of missing oil which seeem to support this theory. Anyone else have feedback?
So far, City only driving(NY), I only get 12MPG but the two Highway trips I did I got almost 18MPG so fair since I have a heavy foot.
Have a Great Weekend!
Con
Alternatively - has anyone successfully mounted one of the new child seat anchors for the middle-rear seat? These are the ones that require an anchor bolted to the floor in the cargo area - a strap attaches between the top of the back of the child's booster/car seat and the anchor in the floor.
I have a '99 Trooper.
Thanks.
Cheers,
Con
Another question. Has anyone else experienced a rattling noise coming from under their Trooper, sounding like a loose clamp on a pipe or something? Happy Motoring (Troopering) !!!
In addition to the above suggestions, how did the coolant look? A good flush and refill might be all that is needed. With a used car you just never know what the prior owner did. Maybe he did the change at 30k mis. maybe not. I know I have inspected used cars before where it looked like the coolant came straight out of a muddy wash.
Could also be the fan is the source of the problem. If you have a clutch activating the fan maybe it is slipping. I had that problem once many years ago on a Toyota .
It could also be that the prior owner removed the shroud around the radiator. That will greatly reduce the cooling effectiveness of the radiator during idling conditions.
-mike
Cheers,
Con
P.S. No over heating in my new Trooper but my 88 Isuzu Pickup did have a high reading on it's temp. but no over heating.
I hope it is that simple for you.
HTH
Paul
-mike
I replaced the front & rear diff. gear oil also. I used Mobil 1 75W-90 synthetic (about $8/qt.). Although the service manual calls for 80W-90 for the temp. range that I drive, I believe the
Mobil 1 will do the job. The label on the bottle says it "exceeds" all SAE etc. tests, while other brands of regular mineral gear oil says it "meets or exceeds" for the same tests. Any thoughts?
You'll notice that the drain plugs on both diffs. have a magnet in them to attract small metal shavings - they work as planned and mine had some junk attracted to them. Make sure you clean these off thoroughly before re-installing the drain plug.
I did my transmission oil at about 8,000 miles. I used Valvoline ATF, not Mobil 1, but I plan to change it again at 20K+/- miles. I will use Mobil 1 at that time.
As you can see, I am very conservative when it comes to oil changes and maintenance. I tend to change it early and often, esp. the first "break-in" oil.
Clean gears are happy gears.
offroader
-mike
Here's some quotes:
"Eases gear shifting and prevents chattering in limited slip differentials".
"...race proven 100% synthetic product that outperforms all conventional extreme pressure type gear lubricants."
"Formulated to exceed the most severe performance requirements of all auto and truck rear axles."
and
"Exceeds performance requirements of API Service GL-5, Mack GO-G/S."
That ought to do it.
offroader
-mike
Although I agree with you on the poor marketing of the Trooper.
-mike
bsmart
"To be eligible for our test, the SUV in question had to have four-wheel drive and a cargo area of at least 90 cubic feet. We used cargo capacity as our defining standard, because it seemed that in order to fulfill the "utility" side of the full-size moniker, the trucks should be capable of hauling more than a garden-variety Ford Explorer or Chevrolet Blazer. As strange as it may seem, a relatively small vehicle like the Isuzu Trooper made it into the test"
"The truth is that the Trooper would probably dominate a comparison of midsized sport-utes like the Explorer, Blazer, Montero Sport, and Nissan Pathfinder, and, in reality, that is the market against which the Trooper is most often shopped. Nevertheless, the Trooper fit our criteria, so we pitted it against the big boys."
"Normal-sized families looking for a medium-to-large vehicle for family trips or running around town will not be disappointed with this Isuzu. In fact, its deficiencies in the test, namely its smaller size and less-powerful engine, could spell real-life gains -- especially when it comes to driving on crowded streets and paying for gas. Our Trooper's price tag is one additional feature that could move it up the list for some families. Our Trooper's sticker was $10,000 lower than anything else in the test, and $10,000 could pay for a lot of nice salmon steaks on those camping trips."
Granted this is unlikely to work for you but for $.10 in material it might be worth trying.
I've been lurking here for a few days, reading the postings, and I have to say that you all are a loyal group. Nothing like what you would read from the Explorer or Grand Cherokee owners.
I live in Long Island and I want to buy a 2001 LS with a sunroof. Does anyone know what I should pay at this point. Also, the only LS I can find is with the Anniversary package. That package seems overpriced.
How can I locate the car I want and how can I find out what to pay?
Thanks,
Charlie