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Comments
-mike
-mike
I found a cheaper interest rate! No co-signer
Also, BLUEDEVIL AND BSMART THANKS FOR THE INFO. I don't get the 10/120 warranty because it's not a new vechle and it's not froma Isuzu dealer. I still get the 5yr warranty. I don't plan on driving it that much because I still have my ole' reliable HONDA Accord with 162,000 miles.
GADKINS1- I'm sorry to here about you XL-7. I too test drove this mini-SUV. very impressed. The only reason I didn't push the issue on getting this vechle was because the TROOPER is more roomy. I don't think you could go wrong with a TROOPER. Everyone in this club gives great info. about where to find helpful TROOPER hints.
-mike
I can't believe this thing ALREADY needed pads and rotors turned, AND
it needs TIRES again..... All this and it only has 93,000 miles on it! Can you
believe it! Rear brakes on this 5000 lb SUV only last 93k miles....
This is my 2nd set of Tires, they only last 47k miles each!
Seriously now, I did end up getting the Edelbrock IAS shocks installed. I know
I could have gone MUCH cheaper on those. Initial reaction is good, but my
wife drives the rig more than I do. I will let all know if I have an impression either
way on these. Spent $69.99 each.
So with 90k miles service complete and new brakes, shocks and tires coming this baby
will be good for many more owner satisfied miles!
Congrats to us Trooper owners!
Gadkins1
Now about that Trooper pricing in the North vs. the South. It sounds kinda fishy to me. My Trooper was stickered at $29000+ and its a S Model 2WD. I'm in the South and all we had available down here were 2WD models. They did have a $7500 rebate allowance going on them, so that brings the price down in the 21K-22K range you mentioned. Maybe ISUZU dealers are showing pricing from different states, some including the knockoff for the rebate already included, while others are not.
If you saw a Limited or LS model there in NJ for about $30K, it sounds like a pretty good deal to me! Down here these models sticker at about $35K-$37K. Again, this could be tricky depending on if there is a rebate involved. If you're serious about a Trooper, its worth asking all these questions.
Happy Trooping!!!
These just came in about two weeks ago, I was surprised to see them get such a big shipment of '01s this late in the year. No '02s yet.
Most of the dealers down here have internet sites where you can check their inventory. We're only about a 6 hour drive to most of PA.
The drain plug appears to be a 24mm unit. It's "hollow" in that there's a small round/cylindrical magnet in the center, with the threads around the outside of the bolt. While trying to tighten the plug last night, it broke off. Approximately the top half of the threads are stuck in the hole and the rest of the threads are still on the bolt/drain plug.
The drain hole is 99% open (the drain plug head did NOT break off in the hole), so the fluid drained out.
I'm out of town now (Grand Rapids, Mich.) and only local Isuzu dealer is closed today. I want to acquire the part ASAP even though I cannot pursue a repair until tomorrow at the earliest.
I'm hoping that the broken-off threads can be removed from the hole (by some "tapping" procedure my dad described) and that the entire rear differential housing/drain pan/whatever the thing is called that the drain and fill plugs thread into does not need to be replaced.
Your help advice is appreciated. Please, hold the wise cracks until AFTER I get this problem resolved!
I spent the last 2 years with an Expedition. As much as I hate to say it, what a piece of crap! When the warranty ran out last month, I started seriously looking for a replacement.
I have owned 3 Isuzus before, two I bought new from the dealers. The first was a 4x4 pickup (84, the first year they had 'em under Isuzu's name). Drove that for 100,000 miles, then sold it to a friend of mine. He's still driving it.
Had another pickup that ended up with 160,000 miles and was still running strong.
I bought a loaded F-150 4x4 in '91, and in '92 sold it and bought an Amigo 4x4. Best car/truck/whatever I ever owned. Sold it when it got to 100,000 and we had our 3rd child (only two seatbelts in back). Bought a used Montero, okay but lots of nitpicks. Traded that on a '98 Expedition 4x4. Talk about problems!.
Anyway, here I am, back to my old standby Isuzu.
I hope that I will get the same great service and dependability with this Trooper as I have had with the other Isuzus. Reading all of your posts helped me make up my mind. (the incentives didn't hurt either). I'm looking forward to keeping this one a long time. And my wife likes the Trooper better because it's not so damned BIG!
So all I need now is a 3rd seat. Also need to get a CD player installed. Any thoughts on whether to cough up for a real Isuzu one?
Thanks for this forum. I'm glad to know I'm not the only Isuzu fan out there, and I'm happy to join the happy Trooper owners club!
I have been looking at the 2001 Trooper LS 2wd and took one for a test drive. My impression was that it was a very well put together vehicle that would be a good value in todays market. I am looking for some opinions on the value and quality of these vehicles on how well they hold up and last. I currently drive a 98 Ford Explorer XLT and have put 85000 miles on it and really enjoyed that vehicle. However, it appears to now be 'nickel and diming' me every 5000 miles on something new: thermostat, oxygen sensor, etc. Does anyone out there have a good comparison between the two or comments on the durability of the Trooper?
Thanks,
Tom
Regarding dealer lowballing on trade-in, this is quite common. It is the reason why I never trade my vehicle in to the dealership. It's also the reason why I am skeptical about people who report what a great deal they got on their new vehicle: if a trade-in is involved, the price paid for the new vehicle part of the transaction is meaningless.
You will not likely get a great price on the new vehicle AND a fair price for your trade-in. The dealer typically will make sure it does well on the trade-in part of the transaction since it's harder for the customer to tell what a fair price is for a used vehicle than for the new vehicle. Why? Because there are many more subjective factors in determining the value of a used vehicle (condition, demand, how much the dealer can sell it for, etc.) and it's therefore easier for the dealer to make money on a used car than a new one.
Any help would be appreciated.
Also, the Isuzu customer service folks will help you with this information as well. Grab the toll-free number from the Isuzu web site (www.isuzu.com).
As for PING....
I have/Had it (and a handfull of others here too) ... a possible fix is to try to run some Concentrated Chevron Techron (NOT the Proguard stuff, the Concentrated stuff) make sure you get the 20oz bottle. And try it with 2 tanks of gas in a row (one bottle of Chervon each time). That seems to work for most folks.
-mike
FYI: I fully understand part-time systems like TOD in Low. The engine doesn't have to work twice as hard when running in low. A couple basic drive train rules, neglecting drive train loses: Horsepower is constant through a drive train and torque varies with gearing along with rpm.
1-I put new batteries in my second remote because I didn't realize it didn't work before I left the dealership (purchased from Honda Dealership) New batteries still didn't work. Someone said I need to program the 2nd remote is this true?
2-What type of oil should I use?
3-I need a cd-changer any suggestions? Thinking about bidding on a 6 disc changer(Pioneer)@ ebay. Does the factory system support a Pioneer changer?
4-The power button any suggestion about when to use it? I drove back from Ohio with the button on.
So far I'm riding high! Everyone agrees that the Trooper rides like a car.
Also, I had a great experience with RoadLoans.com very helpful.
-mike
Here are the programming instructions for '98-02' Isuzu Rodeo and Troopers...
Isuzu Rodeo and Trooper (with factory keyless entry)
Instructions for programming
1. Get in car and make sure all doors are unlocked.
2. Open drivers door and leave open.
3. Put key in ignition.
4. Turn key to on position(dash lights on, but do not start) and back to off position 3 times in 5 seconds or less. (you must turn the key very fast)
5. Close and open drivers door 2 times in 5 seconds or less.
6. Turn key to on position and back to off position 5 times in 5 seconds or less. (turn key very fast)
7. Close and open drivers door doors should lock and unlock twice after this happens push the lock or unlock button on the remote, doors will lock and unlock. Push the lock or unlock button a second time and doors will lock and unlock again. You are finished!
The above sequence erases all previous codes and adds the new code as #1. If you are adding a second remote, you should follow the same sequence with the exception of step 6; instead of turning the key to the on position and back to the off position 5 times in 5 seconds or less, do it 3 times in 5 seconds or less and then continue to step 7.
***Remember to turn the key to the on and off position very fast.
As for the cd changer here is a link to the CD interface cable.
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/audio-etc/isu-98-ecl.html
This will work ONLY with Eclipse products, and your current deck needs to have the CD changer controls ... you could buy the factory indash CD for about 100-150 used from http://www.car-parts.com and then hook it up into your current deck, again as long as it has the changer controls.
http://www.anltd.com/wreck/
-mike
Jim
-mike
On that heat shield rattle, I've been plagued with that as well. I've found that metal hose clamps do a pretty good job of stopping that awful buzzing noise they make. Happy Trooping !!!
OH congrats to all you NEW Trooper owners! Aren't these just the GREATEST vehicles!
Thanks in advance.
Elight 50
I have heard that, for off-road use, the most desirable version of the old boxy ("first generation") Trooper came with 4.77 gears and limited slip rear diff.
-mike
My first is whether offroad is better/easier etc with a manual or an auto. As you can tell, I'm not into this sport yet, but my cabin is at 9,000 ft and the trout are at 12,000 ft +. I'm going to learn, one way or the other. So, a little friendly advice to a rookie would be appreciated.
Since I want to stay around $10K, and assuming I want the goodies the '98 model brought to the Trooper, I'm going to have to go for high mileage (100k +). Any reservations out there about a high mileage vehicle? Are there maintenance items that I should insist on (timing belts etc).
Thanks.
Autos are good for off-road, but manuals are also. Manuals allow more engine braking. The TOD on the '98> Autos is also very very nice. Especially in mud and slippery conditions.
-mike
-mike
Do you happen to remember what the correct spec is for the front alignment (which: cast or camber...?) when using the taller springs? I have the OME springs as you know, and need to re-align the tires to correct the extra wear on the outside of the tire.
I'm preparing to put some new 265/75r16 Pro Comp AT on my '99 Trooper. Have you heard any good or bad about this tire? It is rated for severe weather (snow and ice) and has a 50,000 mile warranty. Suppose to be quiet also.
BTW: my '99 now has 44,000 miles on it with absolutely nothing wrong/no problems. Still no significant oil usage at all using the Mobil 1 Full Synthetic (10w-30) and the Pur One filter. I run the oil about 7500 miles with a filter change at the halfway point. Still love the OME springs/shocks and Sway-A-Way bar combo.
Thanks for your help!
The Pro-comps are ok. A good friend used the Yokohama Geolander AT+IIs this weekend at uwharrie in thik caky mud w/o a problem. I'm going for either the Scorpions in 275-70-16 or the Yokos in 265-70-16.
-mike
-mike