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Comments
Has anyone actually done the math on what we would have saved/lost by paying the higher prices for another SUV with a good tradein value? In otherwords, we saved almost 10k$ over some other vehicles when new but what is the tradein difference now?
In any event, like others noted these Troopers are made for the long haul.
I'd like to think we could get $12,000 for our 98 Trooper with Performance Package (basically an LS), with 66,000 miles. I don't think that's totally unrealistic. Your 99 is surely worth more than 12 grand. But you get $1,000-2,000 less by trading in than by selling privately. I can't understand why so few people sell privately. Maybe once I have a bad experience and get totally swindled, I might be more likely to trade in. But so far, I've never done that - always sold privately and always had success.
Re: the specific price and value of your truck, if you owned your 99 Trooper for 3 years and paid $23,000 originally and it's still worth half that or more, then the vehicle is holding its value fairly well. When you consider as the starting point the actual price paid and not the MSRP, Trooper depreciation really isn't that bad compared with other SUVs.
My family has been a Trooper family for a long time, my father had one of the original two door ones. Two of the earlier Troopers we had were totaled in separate accidents and the occupants walked away from both with out any scratches
My wife seems to think the noise was there since new...maybe it is just a "feature" in the '99 and not a problem. I can't hear it with the radio on, and we are still getting the same A/C out as new, so I am not going to worry about it for now...knock wood...
-mike
How do you clean the A/C pulley? Is it something we can do on our own? I am also hearing a grinding type of noise from the transmission, my wife tells me I hear ALL the noises and she hears none. When the Trooper is in park and the engine running there is no such noise. Put the Trooper in gear and I hear it. The dealer said they drove it and heard nothing. This is also the same dealer that supposedly fixed the noise from the A/C. I wish we had another dealer in this area.
One way to diagnose is to try moving the position of the shifter, if the grinding goes away when you move it a 1/4" then maybe it is only a adjustment or lever position thing?
-mike
Be wary of greasing the clutch and pulley if you get it dirty regularly. You may actually trap dirt and make the situation worse.
I haven't had that problem, but to me it would sound like a good clean after a workout in the dirt, and maybe a spray with WD40 to repel the water from the cleaning and prevent any corrosion would be the way to go.
Of course you would know this, but keep clear of the drive belt.
Tip 1 (from Kezza) - A trick I use to ensure correct and even wear of WIDER tyres is to smear a strip of silicon rubber across the tyre at a certain point (eg use the tyre valve as a marker) leave it to harden overnight and check how the silicon wears off after 10 or 20 ks If the edges still have silicon on the surface of the tread they are overinflated if the centre still has silicon they are underinflated, also handy to check for scrubbing. Be scientific about it and you can work out best pressures for your laiden and unlaiden vehicle I expect you will find that if you check hot and cold pressures it will all tie in.
Tip 2 (from Mal58) - There is a 4PSI rule that you can use to establish the base tyre pressure to work from. It works like this, check the tyre pressure cold. Drive on the bitumen for an hour (highway running), stop and check the tyre pressures. If the tyre pressure has increased by 4psi you will be close to the correct pressure to run for your tyre/axle load and speed combination. If it's greater than 4psi, you need to run more pressure. If less than 4psi, you have started too high and need to drop the cold (initial) pressure. My Base Air Pressure is 34 PSI (for my old Dunlop Grandtreks). For driving in conditions other than bitumen, I drop my tyre pressures according to the following, If I go off road in sand, - I air down to 20 - 22 PSI. If I go off road in soft dirt / gravel, - I air down to 28 PSI. If I go off road in stoney ground, - I air down to 30 - 32 PSI Once you establish the Base for your vehicle, then you can air down in similar proportion to the above. Hope this helps.
Many thanks to Kezza and Mal58 on Exploroz for these tips.
-mike
I have a 1995.5 Trooper-S, what information can they collect about me?
How does that information change if I buy a 2002 Trooper?
-mike
What ALL OBDIIs do is store any history of emission codes. This information can in turn be used by the smog checkers to fail you. Thus, if you have stringent smog checks, you will want to make sure you clear all your codes after you fix the problem and just before you go to get checked.
-mike
Not sure about the procedure for the Troop., but to correctly set the idle on my Gen III SHO, I have to let the idle settle down while in Park when first started (learn for 20 secs or so), then shift it to Drive & let it learn again, then turn the A/C on to Max while still in Drive & let it learn once more, then shift it back to Park w/ the A/C still on.......only takes a few minutes.
Then I drive the car like I stole it if I need to extract maximum performance....at least until my wife drives it & retrains....
disconnect overnight
start and idle til the revs are stable at ~750rpms
drive it normal for an hour (whatver your normal is)
-mike
"An estimate of the maximum damages due to wear and tear caused by sustained speeding comes to 37 cents for a two-minute period at 80 mph." Guess you'll have to do the math, Paisan, LOL.
Steve
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100mph for 15 minutes
If you estimate that the typical Tarus is the rental car of choice these days that would mean the wear and tear on a Trooper would be about 2 cents @ 80mph for 2 minutes, so 15 min @ 100 should work out to about $1?
-mike
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
-mike
That comes out to 12.4 cents per mile - which is less than half the per mile cost of owning and operating a standard vehicle. We would all save money by speeding? Hmmm...!
tidester
Host
SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
Mind you, if your caught doing more than 40km/h over the limit in Oz, it's instant jail time.
BTW, I'm doing the retraining process for the ECM as we speak. It should be interesting, as the Monterey is currently running 98 RON fuel and will be for the next week and a half.
So, how's the weather in your neck of the woods?
/smalltalk/
:-)
Steve
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http://www.directhits.com
I also picked up a can of back rust proof spray paint. I try to spay paint rust spots underneath my truck each year. I am not sure how bad the surface rust is for the undercarriage (if at all), but this seems to keep it at a minimum.
-mike
Only just got your message. As there seemed to be no one around, I logged out. I knew about 4th of July and figured that everyone was out.
Down here, it's the middle of winter now but I'm sure it's mild by some standards in the US. 5degC when I left for work this morning, but fine and sunny anyway.
After all that was done, on day one we did about 100km around Sydney in varying conditions. The Monterey seems a little bit livelier, but the big difference that even my wife noticed is how much quieter the engine was when cruising at all speeds but especially at 90-100km/h. The fuel gauge also didn't travel as quick through the first quarter as it used to.
However, the next few days will really tell as the car is back to weekday chores with my wife and kids. That is, home-daughter's school-son's day care-wife's work-daughter's school-son's day care-home, while I take the train.
Following that, we have a weekend in the Blue Mountains of NSW (with no kids - yeah!). I have three easy trails planned with a friend while the ladies go shopping for antiques, etc.
-mike
-mike
-mike
Just for clarification, my '99S doesn't go off road much (occassional gravel or dirt road) and we only use TOD during winters here in Chicago.
Thanks for your help.
Tetonman
-mike
Prevention is always better than the cure!
Even though there's a lot of mechanicals up front, keep in mind that the motor is relatively light weight because it is all alloy. Whereas the rear has more steel and glass overall. Also, the rear axle carries significantly more of the cabin area than the front.