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I'm not to concerned cause my truck should go 200K w/o problems and if I need to put in oil ever 2-3K thats ok with me.
-mike
-mike
-mike
Steering Column controls - Usually turn indicators on the right of the column, wiper controls on the left, but not always. Most European imports, except for those from the UK, have the turn indicators still on the left of the column and the wiper control on the right. This includes Holden's Astra and Barina which come from Belgium.
Also, years ago Volvo used to bring their cars into Australia with the hood release still on the left hand side.
I was in Europe 9 years ago and did some driving there. I had a hell of a time for the first hour or so getting used to a LHD. Turning into the wrong side of the road, opening windows instead of changing gears, wipers instead of turn indicators.
FUN!
If that's the case, then why don't so many older unleaded engines exhibit the same behaviour?
An example...Holden has been using the Buick 3.8 V6 in Commodores since about 1987. Until 1995, no problems. In 1995 they released the Ecotec version of this motor which has a higher power output and on average consumes 1 litre every 10,000km. It's the same block as the previous one, so why the difference? And if it is something that is allegedly required by design, then why don't all the same engines exhibit the same behaviour?
I have been lucky. My Monterey doesn't burn oil, and my previous '95 Ecotec engined Commodore also didn't burn oil.
-mike
2. Most of the 3.2/3.5L Troopers I've heard of using oil seem to do so from very early on. I.e., the problem hasn't gotten worse with age. To me, that's of less concern than a vehicle that doesn't consume oil until 50k and all of a sudden starts consuming oil.
3. I never noticed a difference in consumption on our 98 Trooper. In this order, it has had conventional (petrol-based) oil, synthetic blend, synthetic and conventional blended by me, full synthetic, and now conventional again. It uses a quart every 2,000 miles or so. It's inconvenient to need to add oil often, but it doesn't bother me much. Actually, it serves as a good reminder of the importance to check the oil, because you never know when it will be down a half quart.
-mike
I wonder how many people don't actually keep very close track of the oil consumption? I'm not saying that would account for very many of the 75% who claim no consumption, but maybe a few.
-mike
Imagine my surprise when we got a very nice letter from American Isuzu recently advising us of their mistake and offering to compensate us. Upon calling the 800 number listed, we were given the option of either a bra or wind deflector (OEM accessory). We had no desire for either and asked for the ski rack, and the phone rep agreed. It hasn't arrived yet, and it may not bolt right to our Overlander rack, but it will sure be more useful than the footrests would have been!
My guess is they ran out of them! Remember 2002 is the catch-all year for parts on the Trooper. Good find on the ski rack though!
-mike
How can that be?? My last oil change was 6000 miles ago, and "the manual" states 7500 miles between oil changes!! The answer I got from the Dealership was, there is no signs of leakage, consumption or burning from the engine. So that meant the Oil Changing place did not put "enough" oil in the car... So, of course, it's not covered under my warranty!!
I then had the car towed back to the oil changing place. The manager said he would "without a doubt" find the problem!! Well,,,, He didn't.
He put 4 quarts of oil into the car before it registered on the dipstick, meaning the car had "at least 1 quart of oil in it"!! There were also no signs of metal in the engine (to me). 2 sparks were pulled with no signs of burning. The car was then started and sounded fine.
Neither place was able to tell me where the oil went. Isuzu says it was my responsibility to check the oil when it left the shop, as well as, every other fuel stop. NO ONE DOES THIS!!...At least No One I know, does this. The oil changing place says they put in 5 quarts.
Who is responsible...
1. Isuzu Dealership,
2. Oil changing place
3. Me!!
Does anyone have a similar situation?? Does anyone have any ideas of what damage could have been done. If I replace the barrings (if that is the problem) how can I be sure any metal in the oil will not cause the problem again (possible spun barring(s))?? Can I get away with changing my oil every 1000 miles?? Please make suggestions!! Here or at jeff.freer@verizon.net. Thanks in advance for taking the time to read my story.
And where did my oil go??
No offense but if I were Isuzu I'd blame it on you too. If you read the manual it clearly states that consumption of 1Q every ~1000 miles is possible, which means that I check every ~1000 miles or so, not ever other fuel up but ever 3rd one. Also if you read the manual the 7500 mile oil changes are the min. and only under non severe conditions. Any kind of summer driving would fall under severe conditions and my guess is that 80% of drivers fall under severe conditions during their normal driving habits.
Have to go with the dealer on this one sorry.
-mike
The big problem is what to do now. I would start by having the oil tested by a lab to see what they find in it. That would be the least costly solution to start. If they find a lot of metal, then the engine may need some work or at minimum an inspection to satisfy yourself that it is ok. If they don't find a high amount of metal, you may have caught the problem in time to prevent serious damage. There is an owner that goes by the name of "bobtheoilguy" that has posted extensively on other forums and who is an expert on motor oil and engine wear and very helpful. I suggest you try to contact him for his opinion.
By the way the local lawn cuttin contractor at our office building decised to snag my bug deflector with the back pack leaf blower strap and snap it in two. They were good about it and gave me a check to replace it - so Isuzu gave me a new one in the box and I installed it - but it is different than the original Isuzu deflector - looks the same on the outside but does bolt to a couple of different points on under the hood - but the most noticeable thing is that this deflector is made of thinner plastic - while driving at interstate speeds it bends back almost to the hood - much flimsier feeling too - oh well - that may explain some posts earlier about deflectors vibrating after six months - the original one was built like a vault. 28,500 miles on 01 LS TOD - no problems - nice rig.
I don't think just changing the block as opposed to the whole engine will be detrimental. If they are paying for it, be happy.
In your case, in spite of the oil shop's statement, you were down to LESS than one qt. of oil when the car stopped. If you had a qt. of oil in there the dipstick would have registered almost full when the 4 qts were added.
No engine can run in anywhere near that condition for any extended period of time without doing some serious damage. Losing power and knocking are clear signs of a major problem.
As to what to do now, you could try to stick the oil change place with the bill. You do after all have the dealer and oil place both saying there is no sign of an oil loss. Thus, one obvious conclusion is that oil must have therefore been underfilled when it left the oil change place. The other less obvious cause is that some of these engines just burn oil. You should have known this and checked your oil levels per the book. No doubt the lawyer for the oil place will argue this. Which story a judge will believe I guess is the question.
My guess is that major damage has already been done. The only cure is to tear the engine down and replace all the improperly lubed items. It would probably be just as cheap to get a rebuilt engine. That being the case, why not just fill it back with oil, cross your fingers, and run it untill it dies and do the replace/rebuild then?
Just my $.02, YMMV.
-mike
New shocks later today - Monroe Reflex - details to follow.....
Hey paisan! race you to 200K! I'm just about to 70K in about 25 months of ownership.
-mike
I still have original fuel filter to change out and I'm way over due on drive shaft lube. Last week I just had the original coolant flushed and filled and due to recent heat I had my MB1 oil change done a little early @ 8k instead of my usual 10K. I had them check the brakes during tire rotation and the tech I can wait another 10k before swapping out pads! That will be almost 80k on originals! I have St. Charles OEM pads ready to go when they do it. I am hoping for 200K, Good Lord willin'. This board helps me out a great deal. Cheers to all!
Other than that all is running well.
-mike
I would love to keep my '99 and buy the new Trooper, storing it away like a fine bottle of wine. My fianc'ee fails to understand this concept and questions my mental well-being. I think she's jealous of the Trooper. I'm just curious if anyone else is having similar thoughts?
-mike
I miss the gas mileage, already, as I am moving from 22 or so to 16MPG so far. Any advantages to using Plus or Premium gas?
BTW, I paid $8K off sticker, so I paid $29,500 or so with the towing hitch.
Thanks and looking forward to adding some experiences.
-mike
http://isuzu-suvs.com/events
-mike
A mechanic once told me that the more frequently you check, the less oil it will burn. He meant that a vehicle may take 2K to burn the first quart, but then will burn the second in 1.5K. The third will go in 1K (this might be and exaggeration). When there is less oil it gets hotter and burns more quickly.
I know this was true with my near-end-of-life Chrysler minivan. It burned a quart in the first thousand. The second one went between 500 and 750.
So tell me Paisan how do you rate the new sway bars - with the EMU springs, tires, shocks, polyurethane bushings, sway bars and bigger tires how would you rate each of these changes for value added. You basically are running on a whole new under carriage.
To me the polyurethane bushing were the biggest surprise for the improvement vs cost - the only other change I have made is the gas shocks - which also helped. My impression is that stiffer springs and thicker sway bar would help tremendously.
They made a HUGE difference. Basically eliminated most of the body-roll and nose-dive bounce. I used to run the front ranchos on 4 to compensate for the body roll and nose dive. Now I can crank em back to 2 for normal driving. I run at 2 Front/3 Rear and it's good.
I think that for the $/value I'd do the following:
Poly Sway Bar Bushings
Tires (when you need to replace the stockers, upgrade to bigger ones)
Springs and shocks (installation of them at the same time is cheaper)
Torsion Bars (relatively easy to do at home)
Items I still plan to do?
1" Poly spacers for the rear @ $90
Possibly putting in VX sway bars (thicker sway bars, same as the "upgraded" sway bars sold by Calmini for the Trooper, probably will order from St. Charles)
Tires- when these tires wear out I'll probably go up to 285-75-16 Yokohama Geolander AT II+
-mike
I have suddenly been hearing about a problem with 99 3.5L engines on both Troopers and Vehicrosses, and am trying to get an idea of how many people are having this problem. A guy at 4x4 Wire just had his 99 engine go out too.
-mike
We'll see how it pans out.
-mike
IF this proves to be true, among other things, I would like to know:
- Is this limited to 99s, or is it simply a matter of mileage that newer engines haven't reached yet?
- If it is limited to 99s, what was changed for 00? And is there a cutoff in 99 models when this change may have been implemented?
- Is there anything that can be done about prevention for us 99 owners? (synthetic oil?)
- Is there or will there be a TSB on this problem, and will Isuzu warranty this particular problem beyond the warranty (50K miles for a 99)?
Seriously though, I imagine it wouldn't only effect 99's, but any of the 98 and up 3.5L's.
FWIW, I have tried to read all the posts on this new topic. Here are ALL THE PROBLEMS - So far Moody's died although I couldn't find the post which said cylinder #1 was to blame. Tek182 on this board had a bearing problem but who knows which cylinder. On the Vx board Mtnhipi had a #1 problem. Joe Fargo had the "exact same thing" on a used vehicle although he never in fact stated which cylinder caused his problem and per the dealer "it was out of oil". Now Sam is quoted by someone as saying this is "seen mostly 1999 3.5L engines with problems (#1 cyl)".
I also sort of remember Viktoria? occassionally reporting in with serious problems, including the engine. However, my sense was that her used vehicle had been flooded somewhere in its life. Similarly we have now have a person reporting on this board 1 qt or less engine oil for who knows how many miles and yet their engine still at least turns over. The point being that engines die for all sorts of reasons and that this cylinder #1 issue is still in the MAYBE mode, not a proven factory problem.
For the record, our 1999 has been problem free, at least so far.