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Comments
There's a rumour flying around down here that Trooper/Jackaroo/Bighorn production for the remaining world markets (ie ... not North America) has now shifted to Isuzu's Thailand plant.
This is where the Isuzu Pickup (Holden Rodeo) is still built in 2WD and 4WD models.
Haven't been able to verify it though.
The transfer case looked very similar too...I suppose it probably is a borg and warner implementation, so why shouldn't it.
http://www.gm.com/automotive/gmpowertrain/transmissions/hydra/app- s/4l60.htm
http://www.gm.com/automotive/gmpowertrain/transmissions/hydra/app- s/4l30.htm
-mike
Ron
Springfield, VA
Another option is that it's the fuel pressure riser this keeps pressure in the line after you turn off the vehicle. If this is bad (and we've seen 2 or 3 on here that were) then the first start of the day could be trouble.
An easy way to check for this is to put the key into the "on" position for 15 seconds before turning the key. This will power up the fuel pump and pressurize the fuel line. Then when you turn the key it should turnover immediately. At least then you can tell the dealer what to fix.
The 3rd option might be the intake manifold gasket, although on such a new vehicle my guess is that this is not the problem. Are there any stalling problems @ idle associated with the hard starting?
-mike
I checked 5 of the 6 spark plug wells and saw no signs of oil in any of them. Didn't try to pull any of the plugs, though. My plan is to have a shop do this since the plugs have 76k+ on them and they might be tough to get off. I'd rather have them do the damage than me, so I can have it fixed on their dime.
I couldn't figure out how to get the coil pack off the driver's side rear one due to the master cylinder proximity. Do you guys remember how you removed the 2 screws? I tried an 8mm socket and also 8mm wrench but couldn't get in there clean enough. I need a couple more tools first.
Any ideas on this - shop damages a plug and can't get it out, or runs into some sort of problem during a plug change. Do you think most shops (dealers included) would take on the responsibility for fixing it free, or would they claim it was due to lack of maintenance and try to stick the customer with the bill?
Would you recommend purchase of 2002 Trooper S?
http://www.hwysafety.org/vehicle_ratings/ce/html/00029.htm
I guess there is a way to put a positive spin on these results but I cannot think of any at this point...
-mike
cracovian - Don't give up on your Trooper. I know it's frustrating but you should see what Land Rover Discovery owners have to contend with the first 20,000 miles. Like the Disco, the Trooper is bomb proof to 200K once you iron out the new car issues. You mentioned you live in Georgia. I live in Atlanta and can tell you from experience that several Isuzu service departments suck. Stay away from Lou Sobh and Pugmire. I like Horton (terrible sales dept. but great service) and Southtowne. Good Luck
Brian
Interesting that Southtowne has a good service department. During my last Trooper search, I nearly bought a year-old Troop from them. I'm in Michigan, but would have flown to Atlanta and drove back the Troop. In the end, they didn't have one with TOD, so I ended up buying from a dealer in Maryland and driving it home from there. Horrible buying experience, by the way.
I have had a "pulling" problem, where it took several tries to get it to drive properly (basically because I took it to a car shop and not a truck shop), my catalytic converter failed and was replaced under warranty, I had my thermostat replaced, my steering column was replaced under warranty (didn't fail, but a seal allowed water to get in and caused a coupling to wear).
I have not heard of any real drivetrain failures on one of these trucks due to mechanical failure.
Trouble free? I wouldn't say so...but free of major driveline problems, I would definetely say so. It is a truck and has different maintenance issues than say a nissan sentra, which may not need to see a shop for 10 years.
It is important to make sure you include as part of your research finding a qualified place to get it serviced. Is the Isuzu place you are buying it from a Truck shop? Most of my problems have only been problems because I had to make repeated trips to the dealer to get the one thing fixed. Once I found a decent place, those issues were resolved.
Thanks for the tip bluedevils. Sorry if I was offensive to anyone. On a lighter note, I've seen people dissatisfied with Lou Sobh scratch the "h" off the dealer nameplate. Talk about negative publicity.
BTW, I'm waiting to see if my intake manifold gasket goes out again in January like it has before. It was -12 degrees this morning, so if it is going to happen it should happen now. Or maybe I did get the new improved gasket last time, have never been able to find out.
What are the symptoms of a bad intake manifold gasket? My Trooper runs normally as far as I can tell, but it does make quite a bit of intake noise, especially when the engine is cold. Could possibly be a leaking gasket?
Starting and driveability were generally fine with this problem.
Thanks
Easy check--when the truck is cold, start it and open the hood. Spray some starting fluid around the manifold where it contacts the block. If there is a leak, you will hear the engine speed up as it draws the starting fluid into the cylinder(s).
Tom
WD-40 is a water dispersant, albeit petroleum based. I would be very surprised if it did anything at all.
Tom
Sam
Can't imagine it being good for MAF sensors and the like on newer cars.
Steve, Host
I'm wondering if it's possible for the gasket to expand and contract throughout the thermal cycling of engine operation, enough to cause the problem to be intermittent? I'm stumped!
An alternate method of diagnosis is to use a vacuum gauge. It is likely that an air leak would lead to unsteady, weak vacuum. I defer to the experts on the correct engine vacuum for this vehicle at idle because I have not had the opportunity to do any diagnosis of this type on a trooper.
Tom
The stuff is very dangerous to inhale. Ether was once used as an general anethesia. I wanted to be sure no one thought it was just alcohol and could be treated as such.
I personally had no problem with your suggestion to use it as a diagnostic tool, although spraying it around all sides of both intake manifolds while you stick your head down close to the engine to listen... to... to the.. rev....... [instert noise of fan slashing face of person lying across the engine unconscious].
Tom
Can someone confirm that the two 17mm bolts whose tops face the front passenger wheel are indeed the fill (mounted higher, and slightly further toward back of truck) and drain (lower, and slightly closer to front of truck) plugs?
The owners manual in my 1998 Trooper calls for GL-5 gear oil. I have some Mobil 75W90 synthetic gear lubricant left over from changing the differential fluids last year, and the bottle says it exceeds all GL-5 requirements. Is this a good, and compatible, choice for the Trooper SOTF unit?
www.jatdesign.net. I know nothing about them and was disappointed to see their Trooper page does NOT include a sample pic of a seat in a Trooper.
Tom
Like I noted before I didn't find a drain plug. Then again my fluid looked like brand new so I didn't need to change it. Consequently I didn't look very hard for a drain. In that I didn't see one on the bottom of the unit my current plan is to eventually suction out the old fluid with a large syringe. That should even get the old fluid off the bottom of the unit, as opposed to a "hidden" but higher up drain that I may have missed.
Just my $.02.
Steve, Host
signed......getting all wet