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boxtrooper
-mike
I am running Uniroyal Laredo All Season AWP tires purchased through Sam's Club's special order program, 255/70x16's, raised white letters. I've got about 12,000 miles on them and I think they do pretty well. I have had 2 sets of B'stone 684's (original set and a replacement set) and actually the Laredo's are in my opinion better (hate the white lettering though) for my purposes. The Laredo's are much better in the snow as well as for dry and wet handling and braking. Also, they are only marginally larger overall, so they don't screw up the speedometer noticeably.
Smooth riding and pretty quiet as well. I don't off-road so that's an area I can't comment on, though I suspect they'd be lousy (tread not aggressive enough).
I use 4 wheel drive (it is the part time non-TOD system with non-slip rear) to get up the road, it is very steep. So steep in fact that the Town will not take over maintenance even if the owners pay for re-surfacing and widening. My 200-ft. driveway needs the 4wd as well. Once I get down the .6 miles to the town-maintained road I generally go out of 4wd and as I go the 7 miles into the nearest town the snow disappears and I emerge into a different climate zone that is anywhere between 8 and 12 degrees warmer.
-Bob
-mike
I'd check out www.tirerack.com and read owners reviews on the tires. There were two all season, Yokohama's that were well rated given the 245/70-16 factory tire size.
20k miles since I bought the 2000 Limitedin April of 2003. Now at 100k miles. Only problem was frozen bolts holding the spare tire on (check yours if you live in salt covered roads). Plus the oil use problem. Other than that, awesome!
..
I live at the top of the hill on my street. When the snow is deep (very rare, but we had 2 feet of snow in 2000) the neighbors either park at my house and walk or just stay home and I go bring them out to the grocery etc.. with my Trooper. We eventually got together (4 of us) and shovelled 1/4 mile of our hill by hand, after it was compressed to ice too slipery to walk on.
..
My Bridgstone AT Revo's are doing great. If there is a big snow down in the South, most of the snow removal must wait for the sun or for plows from up North to drive down looking to make a buck.
Thanks for your expertise on earlier questions. To review my 2001 trooper (now has 34k miles) has been eating oil (2 quarts, the last 500 miles of oil consumption test, 1.7 Q the first 1000 miles (with what appeared to me as an overfill to start the test)).
Anyway the closest dealer (330 miles away) has gotten the go ahead for a new short block. Is this equivalent to a new engine?
If not, will this solve the problem or potentially create additional ones?
I should also note that the rear differential went at about 26k. Is this car a lemon?
I would really appreciate your feedback on my situation. thanks.
grandforks - I 100% agree with bsmart. Also don't forget "the human factor" of mechanics. A rebuilt engine even of high quality labor is not the same as a fabric assembled one.
Unfortunately on the 3.5l Isuzu motors there are no "wires" it's direct fire with a coil over each plug. The part I need to find out how to remove is the wire that leads from the coil to the plug about 6" or less but I couldn't remove it and ripped one of the boots and/or wire
-mike
Regards
-mike
Be prepared though to get charged for a few items. It is more a less a ripoff but the dealer will probably charge you $300 + or - to do the work. For example, they will likely put in new coolant and charge you for that. At least that is the kind of thing being reported elsewhere.
Granted you will still have much of your warranty left after the work is done. However, be careful to inspect everything very closely when they are done. While they should know how to hook it all back up correctly, even a careful tech can make a mistake especially with the amount of work being done. If you do see something fishy (e.g. unhooked connector) or it sounds different, gets poorer mileage, etc. the sooner you report the problem to them the more likely they are to stand behind their work.
I suggest you also pester them beforehand to make sure they plan to clean or replace such things as the pcv, egr and its associated piping. These things can really get fouled when the engine is burning oil like yours was.
Again you are getting one of the very few known problems fixed (i.e. bad oil rings) with a new engine block. Assuming it is done right that is clearly a good thing. The rear diff problem is a new one on me.
-mike
-mike
-Ryan
-mike
I was at the Andreasen's last Saturday to look at the manuals, and while we were talking, Keith remembered that he had a brand new set of OME-912 coils that he has no use and gave them to me. He thought I might find better use for them. Everyone I know around here has them already, but I wasn't sure about your setup. They are great springs, and are free if you want. If you are going to the Andreasens, you can pick them up on the way. I live in Irvine. I have to find out about the rental car place. I'm sure there are some (OC airport is nearby, also). Please give me me your email address.
Thanks,
...Eiji...
Thanks again.
-mike
The similarities are scary. Just like toddsig posted in Jan-2003 (see link: toddsig "Tranny blown at 66K no good will from isuzu ideas?" Jan 23, 2003 9:25am), the tranny on our 99 Trooper went out last week. It had 75k miles on it and never had any major trouble previously. We live next door in New Hampshire, got the same response from Isuzu Customer Service, and got the same quote for a new tranny.
So if you are still out there toddsig, how did it work out for you? I have accepted the fact that Isuzu is not going to extend a good-faith warranty to us. In fact, their District Mananger told me that "it is against federal law to extend any type of secret warranty." Are you happy with the work that was done last year?
BTW, In speaking to approximately a half-dozen service mangers in our area, this seems to be a more common problem than one would expect. A number of the SMs mentioned that they have Isuzus in the shop right now for the same reason. While I was in my local dealership talking to the service folks, a mechanic walked in and said he found "another Isuzu tranny that needs replaced". The transmission shop that is doing our repair just got a Rodeo in today with 53k miles...same thing.
Anyone else have this problem? At what point does this get elevated to NTSB or BBB? I am trying not to get too upset over the situation, but it seems like there are good number of owners that are experiencing similar problems.
Very, very few true 430le failures have been reported on this or any other Board. What tends to happen is that people take their vehicle to a shop and are TOLD they need a new tranny. If they let the shop do the work they almost always still have the same problem because the real problem was a bad sensor or connector. This is especially true of people who go to chain tranny shops. So my advice is get a second or third opinion on your tranny. If nothing else pull the plug yourself and see if metal bits come out, the level is correct, and if the fluid looks or smells bad.
That being said these trannys are very sensitive to proper fluid levels. Being a no dipstick design it is very easy for even trained techs to over or under fill the unit. Lacking a dipstick it is equally easy to miss such a mistake. Also the drain and fill plugs both take a special gasket that tends to leak if not replaced. The point being it is very possible for a shop to do more harm than good when servicing our ATs. Thus not all real problems are caused by the manufacturer. Although in this case Isuzu's dipstick design sure leaves a lot to be desired.
Being "ordinary users of vehicles", most of us aren't interested in own AT (or t-case, or diff) fluid level as often as necessary. What is easier to make a reach for the AT dipstick or for the engine one? Obviously, the latter. My Forester has such an option in its 4EAT, but to date I haven't checked the level at all. In the worst case looking at the floor in the garage I can catch the tranny in a leak just in the morning. Timely service and a competent stuff is what the tranny needs.
Regards
I will admit though that a case can be made for doing a drain and fill. Granted it is not as good as getting almost all the old fluid out. But at least it does get out about 1/2 the old fluid and is somewhat easier to do. I suppose if you did it every 10kmis. or so it might be good enough, at least to get you to 150kmis. or so on the tranny. While I kind of hate to admit it this is pretty much what I do with my power steering fluid. Instead of disconnecting a hose and flushing it, I pop the basket and syringe out the fluid in the reservior several times every 3rd oil change or so.
I never noticed that before since I automatically login. It might have changed over the course of the past several days while our computer folks tweak the member profile settings.
tidester, host
tidester, host
-mike
-mike
The consensus is that several things should be done, all around the same time:
* oil and filter change
* add a cleaner to the engine oil
* add a cleaner to the fuel system (e.g. Neutra or Auto-RX are 2 that seem more legitimate than others and work in both fuel and oil if I recall correctly)
* clean EGR valve and EGR tube/passages
* clean/check/replace PCV valve
Our 1998 Trooper just passed 99k miles and uses a quart every 900 miles or so. As soon as I get around to having a shop do the EGR cleaning, I will replace the PCV valve (new one is waiting in garage), change the oil, and add some Neutra to both the fuel and oil. I hope this will reduce the consumption rate in our Trooper.
teacherjim Jan 1, 2004 7:47pm
i am looking for a vehicle and have short listed two options.
1. Toyota camry - 1998
2. Isuzu trooper - 1999.
i have collected required info for camry from various sources. but have no idea on Isuzu. can any one help me make my mind ?
the trooper is 99 with 91K miles on board.
are there any pitfalls that i should be looking for ? when are the services to be done and what expenses should i be expecting ?
I recommend the EGR/PCV cleaning first before resorting to thicker oil.
Mobile ONE 0W-30 was what ISUZU recommended for the 'ticking' problem on the 95-97 Troopers. I used it on my 97' with limited results. This is NOT a issue on the newer engines since the lifter design is different.
1988 Trooper with cracked oil filter housing adapter. Anyone else seen this problem?? The oil is just pouring out of the thing. Looks like it'll cost a few bucks to get it repaired.