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Isuzu Trooper

1175176178180181233

Comments

  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    for those of you in the cold snowy North, how are your Troopers doing in the snow? What tires are you using? Are you using 4wd?
    Thank You
    boxtrooper
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Working well, no problems.

    -mike
  • schweikbschweikb Member Posts: 111
    I am in the Catskills in upstate New York at an elevation of 2,960 ft. on a .6-mile private road with five homes. The road has been covered with snow since before New Years and it is plowed at the homeowners' expense so needless to say we have it done only when absolutely necessary. Temps have dropped to as low as minus 21F in the last two weeks (a total of six nights they were below minus 5 F), so very cold and slick conditions.
    I am running Uniroyal Laredo All Season AWP tires purchased through Sam's Club's special order program, 255/70x16's, raised white letters. I've got about 12,000 miles on them and I think they do pretty well. I have had 2 sets of B'stone 684's (original set and a replacement set) and actually the Laredo's are in my opinion better (hate the white lettering though) for my purposes. The Laredo's are much better in the snow as well as for dry and wet handling and braking. Also, they are only marginally larger overall, so they don't screw up the speedometer noticeably.
    Smooth riding and pretty quiet as well. I don't off-road so that's an area I can't comment on, though I suspect they'd be lousy (tread not aggressive enough).
    I use 4 wheel drive (it is the part time non-TOD system with non-slip rear) to get up the road, it is very steep. So steep in fact that the Town will not take over maintenance even if the owners pay for re-surfacing and widening. My 200-ft. driveway needs the 4wd as well. Once I get down the .6 miles to the town-maintained road I generally go out of 4wd and as I go the 7 miles into the nearest town the snow disappears and I emerge into a different climate zone that is anywhere between 8 and 12 degrees warmer.

    -Bob
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Anyone know how much the wires cost for the 3.5L motor? The ones that go from the plugs to the direct-fire coils. I toasted at least 1 of mine when I attempted to change my plugs. Unfortunately I couldn't pull it out and wound up ripping it with a pliers :(

    -mike
  • bostnwhalrbostnwhalr Member Posts: 128
    I just picked up a set of Yokohama 051's at tirerack. Much quieter than the Potenza H/T's. Excellent in the snow. I live in Massachusetts. There's been no deep snow to test them so far, but the traction on slippery roads is commendable.

    I'd check out www.tirerack.com and read owners reviews on the tires. There were two all season, Yokohama's that were well rated given the 245/70-16 factory tire size.

    20k miles since I bought the 2000 Limitedin April of 2003. Now at 100k miles. Only problem was frozen bolts holding the spare tire on (check yours if you live in salt covered roads). Plus the oil use problem. Other than that, awesome!
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    schweikb, I too live on a private road and about 6 or 7 miles toward town I go through a climate change of about 5 degrees warmer in town. This is a big deal for me in summer having been raised in the snowy North and living in the South. My climate change is due to the breeze by my house comes down from the mountains across a lake and the effect of the forest I live in.
    ..
    I live at the top of the hill on my street. When the snow is deep (very rare, but we had 2 feet of snow in 2000) the neighbors either park at my house and walk or just stay home and I go bring them out to the grocery etc.. with my Trooper. We eventually got together (4 of us) and shovelled 1/4 mile of our hill by hand, after it was compressed to ice too slipery to walk on.
    ..
    My Bridgstone AT Revo's are doing great. If there is a big snow down in the South, most of the snow removal must wait for the sun or for plows from up North to drive down looking to make a buck.
  • bstone3bstone3 Member Posts: 97
    To continue the saga of eliminating the cold start surge in my 01 TOD LS I left the vehicle at the dealership last Friday. The computer codes said to change the EGR valve - and they did - so far no more surging at startup - but the final verdict will not be until it warms up outside to 70 or so - but it does seem much better. So now they have changed the FPR and the EGR - also the mechanic noticed that the surpentine belt needed replacement so they did that at 44k miles($71 P&L). Dealership real helpful - hope they stick around - I know the service manager was sure hoping that the new Trooper in 06 was here now - he has a high regard for Troopers - the dealer also just started handling Land Rovers - so with some time to kill I looked at several Discoveries - nice rig. A 2 wheel drive Buick Ranier was $38K and the leathered out Discovery 4X4 was $39k - so seems like favorable pricing - but I have read where Land Rovers do have some reliability issues - still good looking rig.
  • grandforksgrandforks Member Posts: 3
    Hey guys,

    Thanks for your expertise on earlier questions. To review my 2001 trooper (now has 34k miles) has been eating oil (2 quarts, the last 500 miles of oil consumption test, 1.7 Q the first 1000 miles (with what appeared to me as an overfill to start the test)).

    Anyway the closest dealer (330 miles away) has gotten the go ahead for a new short block. Is this equivalent to a new engine?

    If not, will this solve the problem or potentially create additional ones?

    I should also note that the rear differential went at about 26k. Is this car a lemon?

    I would really appreciate your feedback on my situation. thanks.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Sounds like you got a LEMON. I'd have the dealer take it back on the lemon law, assuming your state has that law. The short block isn't sure to fix your problem. It's a long way from a complete new engine. They will have to use all the misc. external parts of your original engine. All you will get new is the block, cylinders and working internals. I wouldn't do it considering the other problem you mentioned with the driveline.
  • dnestrdnestr Member Posts: 188
    Mike - if you are looking for aftermarket wires then get them with silicone additives. BTW thanks for your "cold AT question" response on the Subaru board. It was short and clear as usual.

    grandforks - I 100% agree with bsmart. Also don't forget "the human factor" of mechanics. A rebuilt engine even of high quality labor is not the same as a fabric assembled one.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    No problemo on the subaru thing.

    Unfortunately on the 3.5l Isuzu motors there are no "wires" it's direct fire with a coil over each plug. The part I need to find out how to remove is the wire that leads from the coil to the plug about 6" or less but I couldn't remove it and ripped one of the boots and/or wire :(

    -mike
  • dnestrdnestr Member Posts: 188
    I nearly forgot my previous 3,5 Trooper and its the smallest details. On my new diesel Trooper there are no spark plugs at all.

    Regards
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'd die for a diesel! :(

    -mike
  • dnestrdnestr Member Posts: 188
    Yep it's a great thing. I could be absolutely happy if it would be with TOD t-case and 4L30E. Just shift-on-the-fly t-case and manual tranny.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    I think you will be fine. The replacement engines supposedly have newly designed oil rings to eliminate the excess oil usage problem.

    Be prepared though to get charged for a few items. It is more a less a ripoff but the dealer will probably charge you $300 + or - to do the work. For example, they will likely put in new coolant and charge you for that. At least that is the kind of thing being reported elsewhere.

    Granted you will still have much of your warranty left after the work is done. However, be careful to inspect everything very closely when they are done. While they should know how to hook it all back up correctly, even a careful tech can make a mistake especially with the amount of work being done. If you do see something fishy (e.g. unhooked connector) or it sounds different, gets poorer mileage, etc. the sooner you report the problem to them the more likely they are to stand behind their work.

    I suggest you also pester them beforehand to make sure they plan to clean or replace such things as the pcv, egr and its associated piping. These things can really get fouled when the engine is burning oil like yours was.

    Again you are getting one of the very few known problems fixed (i.e. bad oil rings) with a new engine block. Assuming it is done right that is clearly a good thing. The rear diff problem is a new one on me.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I had mine replaced a while ago. I really don't burn any oil...didn't really before and not after. There was no performance change, just like new. My mileage is poor, I am not sure if it related or just the Trooper. The only thing I noticed was that they didn't put all the wires back as good new. I recommend taking a picture beforehand so you know how all the cables are routed, what wire hangers are there ,etc. There isn't much slack and most things cannot route differently by design, but I noticed they didn't replace one hanger and some cables needed to be moved around.
  • emiuraemiura Member Posts: 59
    I remember you live in So. Calif. (San Diego?) Do you have OME springs in your Trooper?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Comes through. Bought the coil today for like $70, should be here tomorrow.

    -mike
  • dnestrdnestr Member Posts: 188
    No cheap at all. Anyway, congrats with it.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    How does one get the rubber wire thangs out of the valve covers? I don't want to mess it up more than it already is, is there a trick?

    -mike
  • ryanendresryanendres Member Posts: 122
    You need to twist twist tiwst then pull and twist at the same time. My first time I yanked and yanked and got nothing. Then a year later I read the twist thing and I tried it and it worked!
    -Ryan
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Will do that this time.

    -mike
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    Sorry for the late response, I've got the Flu and have been sleeping all day. Yes to S.D. no to OME springs, only shocks. Glad your still around, are you aware of a rental car company close to Andreason's? I've got to get the Timing belt changed and simply don't trust anyone down here to do the job correctly.
  • emiuraemiura Member Posts: 59
    Hope you'll feel better soon.

    I was at the Andreasen's last Saturday to look at the manuals, and while we were talking, Keith remembered that he had a brand new set of OME-912 coils that he has no use and gave them to me. He thought I might find better use for them. Everyone I know around here has them already, but I wasn't sure about your setup. They are great springs, and are free if you want. If you are going to the Andreasens, you can pick them up on the way. I live in Irvine. I have to find out about the rental car place. I'm sure there are some (OC airport is nearby, also). Please give me me your email address.

    Thanks,

    ...Eiji...
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    To add my e-mail address. Wow, thanks for offering them to me. Looks like Keith can make some $$ on those springs by installation labor afterall. Do they make the ride harsh? I'm assuming they'll raise the truck @ 1-2" also.

    Thanks again.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Don't make it too harsh and raise it barely over 1" I want the 919s which are a bit stiffer and about 2" lift.

    -mike
  • yumyumtreetreeyumyumtreetree Member Posts: 3
    (copied from the Maintenace & Repair section)

    The similarities are scary. Just like toddsig posted in Jan-2003 (see link: toddsig "Tranny blown at 66K no good will from isuzu ideas?" Jan 23, 2003 9:25am), the tranny on our 99 Trooper went out last week. It had 75k miles on it and never had any major trouble previously. We live next door in New Hampshire, got the same response from Isuzu Customer Service, and got the same quote for a new tranny.

    So if you are still out there toddsig, how did it work out for you? I have accepted the fact that Isuzu is not going to extend a good-faith warranty to us. In fact, their District Mananger told me that "it is against federal law to extend any type of secret warranty." Are you happy with the work that was done last year?

    BTW, In speaking to approximately a half-dozen service mangers in our area, this seems to be a more common problem than one would expect. A number of the SMs mentioned that they have Isuzus in the shop right now for the same reason. While I was in my local dealership talking to the service folks, a mechanic walked in and said he found "another Isuzu tranny that needs replaced". The transmission shop that is doing our repair just got a Rodeo in today with 53k miles...same thing.

    Anyone else have this problem? At what point does this get elevated to NTSB or BBB? I am trying not to get too upset over the situation, but it seems like there are good number of owners that are experiencing similar problems.
  • wildbucwildbuc Member Posts: 88
    I have had two cars ruined by taking them to have the trans. fluid changed by people who didn't know how to do it. In one case they put in the wrong fluid, and in another they didn't measure it correctly. Partly my fault I guess, because I shouldn't have trusted them to do it right. You guys who have had tranny failures, who did the changing--a local shop or an Isuzu dealer?
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    The AT in the Trooper is not the most robust of units but it is nonetheless quite durable.

    Very, very few true 430le failures have been reported on this or any other Board. What tends to happen is that people take their vehicle to a shop and are TOLD they need a new tranny. If they let the shop do the work they almost always still have the same problem because the real problem was a bad sensor or connector. This is especially true of people who go to chain tranny shops. So my advice is get a second or third opinion on your tranny. If nothing else pull the plug yourself and see if metal bits come out, the level is correct, and if the fluid looks or smells bad.

    That being said these trannys are very sensitive to proper fluid levels. Being a no dipstick design it is very easy for even trained techs to over or under fill the unit. Lacking a dipstick it is equally easy to miss such a mistake. Also the drain and fill plugs both take a special gasket that tends to leak if not replaced. The point being it is very possible for a shop to do more harm than good when servicing our ATs. Thus not all real problems are caused by the manufacturer. Although in this case Isuzu's dipstick design sure leaves a lot to be desired.
  • dnestrdnestr Member Posts: 188
    "Lacking a dipstick it is equally easy to miss such a mistake."

    Being "ordinary users of vehicles", most of us aren't interested in own AT (or t-case, or diff) fluid level as often as necessary. What is easier to make a reach for the AT dipstick or for the engine one? Obviously, the latter. My Forester has such an option in its 4EAT, but to date I haven't checked the level at all. In the worst case looking at the floor in the garage I can catch the tranny in a leak just in the morning. Timely service and a competent stuff is what the tranny needs.

    Regards
  • dmuzykadmuzyka Member Posts: 31
    All this transmission talk has got me spooked....starting last week it seemed my '01 with 50k was taking a tick longer to shift into and out of reverse after backing up. Should I be concerned?
  • beer47beer47 Member Posts: 185
    From the start, every 40 to 50K take it to a good place that will do flush and fill. I had it done at a reputable place near me at 45K and 93K. I am almost at 111K on a 2000 "S" with no AT problems so far. I plan to do again at 140K. The other side of the coin is, if you have over a 100K now with only drain and fill then I would keep doing that. You may dislodge something that could cause problems otherwise. Oh, and I still have original filter in tranny. I am loath to have any AT taken apart if it is running as designed. Even to change a filter.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    I agree a flush is the best way to go. I do mine a little less than every 30k mis. It just seems like very cheap insurance for the price of three gallons of fluid and my time.

    I will admit though that a case can be made for doing a drain and fill. Granted it is not as good as getting almost all the old fluid out. But at least it does get out about 1/2 the old fluid and is somewhat easier to do. I suppose if you did it every 10kmis. or so it might be good enough, at least to get you to 150kmis. or so on the tranny. While I kind of hate to admit it this is pretty much what I do with my power steering fluid. Instead of disconnecting a hose and flushing it, I pop the basket and syringe out the fluid in the reservior several times every 3rd oil change or so.
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    When did you guys add the ability to click on a members name, and thier profile comes up without logging in?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    When did you guys add the ability to click on a members name, and thier profile comes up without logging in?

    I never noticed that before since I automatically login. It might have changed over the course of the past several days while our computer folks tweak the member profile settings.

    tidester, host
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Not to mention information marked as private displayed to the world? What is with that? I checked my profile while not logged in and it had information checked as private displayed?
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    FWIW, I can't see your private info either logged in or not.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Are you sure you weren't automatically logged back in when you read your profile?

    tidester, host
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I can't seem to get my truck to stop from getting a misfire in cylinder 1. I replaced the coil etc even put in 2 new plugs in cylder 1 and 2. No dice. I guess I'll send it to the dealer and see what they can come up with, it's under warranty so it's not that bad.

    -mike
  • drdmooredrdmoore Member Posts: 6
    I bought a 2000 LS 2WD a month ago with 65K miles. I have to add 1 quart of oil every 6-700 miles when doing highway driving. I use 5W30 and was wondering if anyone could tell me what I can do to decrease my oil consumption. Thanks!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I noticed that 10-40 burns less oil. 5-30 is too thin IMHO.

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    do a search in this topic for 'oil consumption' or similar phrase.

    The consensus is that several things should be done, all around the same time:
    * oil and filter change
    * add a cleaner to the engine oil
    * add a cleaner to the fuel system (e.g. Neutra or Auto-RX are 2 that seem more legitimate than others and work in both fuel and oil if I recall correctly)
    * clean EGR valve and EGR tube/passages
    * clean/check/replace PCV valve

    Our 1998 Trooper just passed 99k miles and uses a quart every 900 miles or so. As soon as I get around to having a shop do the EGR cleaning, I will replace the PCV valve (new one is waiting in garage), change the oil, and add some Neutra to both the fuel and oil. I hope this will reduce the consumption rate in our Trooper.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    problem in the 1995 to 1997 Trooper 3.2L engines. I think the 2000 is not subject to that particular lifter tickiing problem.
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    Did you ever get those replacement headlights?
    teacherjim Jan 1, 2004 7:47pm
  • tusharjoshitusharjoshi Member Posts: 1
    Hi All,

    i am looking for a vehicle and have short listed two options.
    1. Toyota camry - 1998
    2. Isuzu trooper - 1999.

    i have collected required info for camry from various sources. but have no idea on Isuzu. can any one help me make my mind ?

    the trooper is 99 with 91K miles on board.
    are there any pitfalls that i should be looking for ? when are the services to be done and what expenses should i be expecting ?
  • greenmaxgreenmax Member Posts: 47
    Bluedevils' advice is good, although at such high rate of consumption simple maintenance may not suffice. I believe in preventative maintenance and have periodically cleaned the pcv valve, throttle body and once the EGR valve. On a recent 1600mi trip (95% highway) my 2001 Trooper with 40k burned only 1/8qt of 5W-30 Chevron dino oil. I would try a good dino 10W-30 or even 10W-40 oil such as Chevron, Castrol or Pennzoil.
  • drdmooredrdmoore Member Posts: 6
    thank you for your help. I will try the egr service and thicker oil and let you know how it turns out!
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    Going to thicker oil is a band-aid approach IMO. I ran 5W-30 Mobil One without oil burning issues, and that is about a thin as it gets (unless you go to 0W-30 Mobil One).

    I recommend the EGR/PCV cleaning first before resorting to thicker oil.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Has anyone done this at home, and what are the gotcha's??

    Mobile ONE 0W-30 was what ISUZU recommended for the 'ticking' problem on the 95-97 Troopers. I used it on my 97' with limited results. This is NOT a issue on the newer engines since the lifter design is different.

    1988 Trooper with cracked oil filter housing adapter. Anyone else seen this problem?? The oil is just pouring out of the thing. Looks like it'll cost a few bucks to get it repaired.
  • df2000df2000 Member Posts: 60
    I would not underestimate effect of adding 4q of fresh ATF say every 1 yr/15K mi in drain and fill routine. If I can use analogy with motor oil, there is very good evidence on Bob site of adding about 1q of fresh oil every 2K mi to 5-6 q system on LS1/Camaro engine to significantly improve wear metal numbers in UOA. I was actually surprised myself. Of course, if you not do this from car was new all bets are off.
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