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Isuzu Trooper

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  • drdmooredrdmoore Member Posts: 6
    there are 68K miles. I just bought the truck and do not know for sure about service history. I was a least vehicle and I believe was serviced appropriately.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Well, I just had it cleaned for $90 or so dollars. Mileage is back up to 11-12 MPG around town. It was about 8.5 MPG seemingly getting worse by the day. The EGR was cleaned about 1/4 way into the tank so I hoping to do a little better...if I can get up to 13-14 I will be pleased.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    sorry - from drdmoore's original post, I assumed - incorrectly, as it turns out - his whining noise was the squeaky accelerator pedal itself. Glad to see my misdiagnosis was corrected by some other folks.
  • bawbcatbawbcat Member Posts: 118
    sbcooke, do you know what method was used to clean your EGR? I cleaned mine a couple weeks ago by just removing the valve and hosing out the intake passage with carb cleaner as I've seen recommended. I now get intermittent rough idle and CEL. Will probably repeat the procedure this weekend and see if that helps. I'm currently wishing I hadn't touched it, sice my Trooper ran fine before.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    No idea...the $90 kind.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    sbcooke, since your mileage is so much improved, it would be interesting to see what affect the cleaning has on your oil consumption. Would you let us know if that improves as well>??? Stick that resistor in place of the air intake sensor and gain another mpg or so, it does work.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I don't really burn any oil. Around town I don't burn much not enough to need to add between oil changes. If I go on long road trips a couple of 4+ hour days then I usually need to add maybe 1/2 quart.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    $450 Complete Tranny flush and cleaning, dropping pan, etc. :(
    $100 Throttle Body Cleaning

    Apperently the tranny fluid looked like motor oil. And that's in 20K miles as I had it flushed at 50K, and now turned 70K miles. So after that we'll see if anything improves, if not then they'll do the tranny on it....

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Bad/low fluid could cause slippage. Hopefully this will solve your issues.

    Interesting that other shops didn't notice when checking levels...since when you get an oil change at a dealer they should also check the transmission fluid level...brown fluid should get noticed...then again not every shop performs what they list on their invoices.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Doesn't get checked on troopers, as it's a sealed case. It's actually due for a drain-fill as it has hit 20K miles since the last one and it's on the "severe" intervals.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    My dealer supposedly checks the level when I bring it in...I assume they take the top plug out and stick their finger in. A worthy mechanic should notice a fluid problem this way...I actually have no confidence my dealer does any of this at my services, but for now it is at least documented that they did...so if anything comes up in the next 4 months (when my warranty runs out) I have at least a paper trail.
  • bigwesbigwes Member Posts: 7
    I just had my 2000 Trooper in the shop because the tranny was "slipping" at 64,000mi. The dealer found/fixed a leak. It was covered under my extended service plan through Chrysler, so I only had to pay the deductable $50. A relief because the bill was over $300. In any event, they are recommending that I get the transmission service(drain/fill,drp pan,replace filter) for $199. Is that a good price or can I do better out there in the non-dealer world?
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    99' Trooper 59000 miles, got the CEL today. Engine doesn't want to start up near as quickly as usual. Rough idle after start compared to nomral. What's the history on this?? I know its been discussed here before.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    this website since the update/upgrade in appearance. It doesn't come up where I finished reading it from the last visit, like it used to. ????????????/
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I don't what is causing that - it works fine for me. I wonder, have you changed your browser or brower settings?

    tidester, host
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    and hard starting could be a bad battery. I'd start there, unless it's relatively new.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    And I have a feeling that it will still not be fixed but at least my dealer assured me that if there is a problem, now they can say the fluid isn't the cause (the old stuff looked like motor oil)

    -mike
  • dimistdimist Member Posts: 2
    My 99 Trooper has 53 K, pleased with it, no major problems so far. Power window not closing tightly, broken rear wiper, squeaky gas pedal, minor stuff.

    The CD changer broke down last fall, and it is hard to find an in-dash CD changer sold outside the car dealer network. I bought a Nakamichi MB-75 unit 6 months ago from electronicsbonanza.com. Now I can report on it in detail.
    Overall, I am quite impressed with it. My old Fujitsu sometimes skipped over major potholes, and I learned to live with it, until I drove over the same potholes with Nakamichi. Not a skip so far. Simply amazing. My other car has a high-end Bose unit, and I know a stretch on a country road where I can make the Bose skip, but not Nakamichi!
    Sound clarity and bass richness for Nakamichi is far better than the head unit that it replaced; used it with the same speakers.
    A CD changer and AM/FM radio is a bit too much for a single DIN slot, so don’t expect a lot in terms of ease of control. Buttons are tiny, and they have multiple functions. Also, Nakamichi has detachable plate, which is perhaps why volume control is not rotary.
    However, given the constraints that they had to have a single-DIN unit (for all Mini Coopers and Jettas out there) with a detachable face plate, Nakamichi engineers still worked out a nice compromise in terms of ease of use.
    The power, volume and track navigation buttons that are used most frequently are located at the driver’s side of the unit. Volume buttons have a distinct tactile feel, so it is fairly easy to learn to perform the basic functions without looking at the unit. Bass, treble, balance and fade adjustments are all done with the same volume buttons. The tiny button that toggles bass, treble, balance and fade adjustment regime is also nearby, and with some practice all those basic adjustments can be done fairly easily.
    Power button is somewhat annoying, because it toggles between CD, radio and two AUX inputs, so to switch from CD to radio you need to push it 4 times.
    The LCD display on the unit has all the necessary information, but the characters are too thin and may be hard to read in direct sunlight.
    CDs change somewhat slowly, but this matters only in the full random play mode that I never use.
    Overall, I would recommend this unit to anyone who needs to replace their stock in-dash 6 CD changer. The only other alternative seems to be ordering a replacement unit through your dealer, and it is typically 1.5X the price of Nakamichi unit, and maybe inferior quality, too.
  • emiuraemiura Member Posts: 59
    '99 Trooper with 64,000 miles. Also had rough idle with CEL about 3 weeks ago. After driving a while, it became normal and CEL went off. Checked the code, and it was "EGR Solenoid Control Faulty". The CEL never came back since. Shall I try cleaning the EGR?
  • emiuraemiura Member Posts: 59
    Always wondered about this, so here is my question... Trooper came with wheel locks. Wouldn't having one lock nut out of six lugnuts cause wheel imbalance (assuming wheel lock and regular lugnut weight are different)? Tire shop performs wheel balancing without the wheel lock, so if I use it to mount the tire on the vehicle, wouldn't it offset the balance?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I think they either weigh the same or are close enough to the center not to effect it.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    The battery is a good starting point like Paisan said. Mine went at just over 4 years if I remember correctly. It started with hard starting when cold and even a couple of stalls. Though I never generated any codes based on the battery.

    If you have a CEL and rough idle it could be the start of an Intake Manifold Gasket Problem. My 1999 started with slightly rough running, then bouncing idle/stalling. The shop couldn't "figure it out" until it got so bad that it caused a code to be generated, so it took 5 trips to the dealer over 2 weeks while the problem got worse and worse to get it fixed...even though I pointed them to that problem the first trip in.

    I would think if there is a problem it is either of those 2. The dealer spent time checking my idle air control valve, EGR, basically everything but what the problem was.
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    That changer looks nice. Looks like a good replacement for the Trooper. I really enjoy my Isuzu 6 disc in-dash unit and couldn't imagine living without it ;^)
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    I took the 99' Trooper to the dealer shop today and they ran the codes on it. It was a bad EGR valve that caused the CEL to come on. It was locked in for 2 days and the idle was rough. Engine was hard to start if it had not set for several hours. They changed the EGR valve and cleaned our the tubing passages. The Trooper is running better now than I can ever remember it running before. Seems to have more 'pep'. I'll see in time what affect this has on the MPG. I kept the old EGR to inspect for myself and see how dirty the internals of it are.

    As for the cleaning, I asked just how they do the passage way cleaning. The service guy said they use a small bottle brush and some carb cleaner or break line cleaner and blow it out afterward. Then they reset the code in the computer. They did not clean the EGR, they replaced it in my case. He said the diaphram was stuck. Thats what I want to check out for myself. The cost of running the diagnostic, new EGR, and cleaning of tubes was $389 and change. Seems like a lot, but if it performs very well and the mileage improves like SGCOOKE, I'll be very happy with that!!

    I plan to see if it has an impact on my oil consumption as well. Oil consumption seemed to have gotten excessive recently. I had just added a quart last week after only about 800-900 miles. Thats a lot more consumption than I typically see. Usually get about 1500-2000 miles before adding a quart of oil.

    Now I need to get the spark plugs changed and the serpentine belt replaced. Oh, the dealer wanted $90 to replace the belt. I'll do that myself at home.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    Yeah, that serpentine belt change is a toughie - takes all of 5 minutes.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Maybe this relates to your problem:

    pat "Ask the Town Hall Hosts" Feb 26, 2004 10:42pm

    Steve, Host
  • carlfromrbcarlfromrb Member Posts: 3
    Help please,
    Has anyone replaced the rear pinion seal or does anyone know what the procedure is from the Helms manual; torque specs, etc. I need to replace mine pronto for a trip across country at weeks end and I really don't have confidence in the local dealer. The last time I had the truck in for repairs, they replaced everything but didn't fix the problem , the I'm getting the seal from St. Charles Isuzu.

    Thanks,
     carl
  • makayemakaye Member Posts: 81
    It's not that tough, but you need to do it exactly. So, you'll need the manual and all specs - which I don't have.
    Here is an overview:
    http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/seals.htm
    Did you get the seal and (most have) crush washer/spacer as well?
    See:
    http://www.web-masters.com/gms/rear_axle.html
    #'s 27-33 and 42-44.
    Hope this helps.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    change in 5 minutes?? Whats the TRICK to make it simple and easy??
  • ryanendresryanendres Member Posts: 122
    "He said the diaphram was stuck"

    Just a little FYI, +98 Isuzu have a solenoid to activate the sprung pintel in the EGR. The pintel is what gets carboned up, and needs to be cleaned. Diaphram EGR's, are actuated by vacuum lines to the EGR. Many mechanics are not use to this new solenoid activated EGR and assume that when there is a fault code, it is a bad diaphram.

    As for Oil useage, I was reading my CD manual last night, and it stated the following reasons for increased oil consumption:

    1. Dirty EGR (system)
    2. Dirty PCV
    3. Carbon up piston rings
    4. Long highway trip
    5. Towing

    S-Belt:

    Yup it is a 5 minute job and the belt cost like 17 bucks from St. Charles.

    If you check the rodeo board here there is an Isuzu FAQ link I put together for Rodeo's and Troopers.
    -Ryan
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    $192 for the serpentine belt. Got it for $14 from my distributor. We'll see how hard it is to put on this weekend.

    -mike
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    If you can, please take some pics, document the process, and post it on your website for all of us non-mechanics to see :-)
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    That and the diffys and T-case as well.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    My CEL came on over the weekend. As I suspected it's the Cat which I had before I messed with the plugs/wires but that the 2nd dealer (after the first one dropped isuzu) would not fix cause I had cleared the codes when dealing with the plugs/wires.

    So it will be another trip back since last time they couldn't do anythind due to no CEL. It will be 2 trips back cause only Bank 1 is showing now, they'll have to wait til the CEL for Bank 2 comes on in order to replace that one.

    -mike
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    Has anyone cleaned their own EGR valve? Is it that complicated? What should I expect to pay to have it done?
  • ryanendresryanendres Member Posts: 122
    This is from my Isuzu FAQ page (20 pages of FAQ):

    1 : Remove the EGR valve there are 2 holes the larger one is the one that supplies exhaust, flow don’t worry about it. The other is a vacuum port this is where exhaust gases are directed when the EGR valve opens, carbon deposits stick to the walls of the vacuum port and in time will restrict flow normally about 30,000 miles.

    2: Check your local dealer for Intake cleaner ask about BG products all you will need is the intake cleaner (spray can), or head to your local parts place and pick up a can or carb cleaner that is safe for O2 sensors, find something to plug the larger hole make sure it will not vibrate and fall out there will be slight exhaust pressure on it but not much just be sure it is plugged real well because if not you may be surprised by a flame. Once plugged start the vehicle, spray intake cleaner into the vacuum port you may have to raise the idle to do or just open the throttle by hand spray until the can is empty.

    3 : check your EGR valve push the pintle on the bottom be sure it moves in and out freely if not clean it don’t replace the valve once the pintle moves as it should reinstall the EGR valve disconnect battery for a few minutes or have code cleared.

    Here is my own write up:

    First I disconnected the Neg terminal on the battery.

    I loosened the two screws on the intake, removed the tube that goes to the vavle cover, and then tried
    to remove the one sensor plug. Which didn't happen, but there was enough slack in it to move the intake
     and place it above the TB.

    So I take a look at the butterfly valve and it doesn't look half bad. I open it and there is a bit of
    carbon build up. So I sprayed that area, and wiped it out with a shop towl. Then I sprayed into the intake
     and washed that down a bit too (.25 of the can). Next I saw the tube that Keith mentioned that cools cly #1,
     and I ran a Test Tube brush about 4-5 inches down it with little problems. After that I put a shop towl in
    the butterfly to let it air out.

    Next I removed the egr, 2 bolts and one plug. And then remove the egr itself. I sprayed down the inside of
     the egr and lots of flaky carbon washed out. I also, sprayed some down the egr tube and the hole next to it,
     and ran the test tube brush down it a bit. Then I let the egr sit out and air out for about 30-40 minutes
     before I installed it. Then I put everything back together.

    Then the fun started. I turned the key for about 5 seconds and it would crank and crank and crank but nothing.
     I tried again and the same thing happened. One more time, and it turned overed and stummbled for about 7-10
    seconds. Then I started to give it a bit of gas and then it happened! The dreaded Flashing Check engine light!
     NO! At this point it was running just fine so I took it for a spin around the block. Everytime I accelerated
    the CE would flash. Hmmmmm, what is going on here? Luckly I live about 2 miles away from my dealership, I pulled
    in told them that I had a CE flashing and they checked the gas cap, and asked if I had tried to restart the car
    yet. Nope, so I did that, reved it a bit and NO CE. Yippy! So I drove home and the CE never flashed once!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'd like to add a link on my page http://Isuzu-suvs.com

    -mike
  • ryanendresryanendres Member Posts: 122
    Sent you a link.
  • silverghostsilverghost Member Posts: 154
    I just got an installation quote from a local Tire-Rack-friendly installer - $150 labor to put on 4 KYB shocks!! What's up with that? Is there something esoteric about these things that I've missed? I mean, two to three bolts each, and that's it! I would think they could install them in their sleep! New shocks for my '01 2WD LS may become my latest DIY project.

    Dave
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Cost me $150 to get mine installed as well. It's about 2hrs of labor and that's about $150 by mechanic's standard of $70/hr.

    Major PITA on the front ones, had to use the torch on mine.

    -mike
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    Nope, nothing unusual about the shock mounting...space to swing a wrench is limited at the upper rear shock mounts, but that's about it.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    Find the tensioning pulley, it is on a spring loaded arm on the left side I believe as you face the engine. Put a socket wrench on the nut on the face of the pulley, crank it and the arm will swing, taking the tension off the belt. Slip the belt off while holding the tensioning pulley with the wrench. Install is basically the reverse, obviously you need to note the belt routing before removal so you can get it back on the same way.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Cool that is Friday night's job to do the belt. Sat I'll do the diffy fluid and TOD fluid.

    -mike
  • bawbcatbawbcat Member Posts: 118
    Shock installation was an easy DIY project on my Trooper. I think the most common problem is that some people have trouble getting the top rear mounts loose. Might try soaking the mounting nuts/bolts with WD-40 or similar product beforehand.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    That seems a bit much for a spark plug! This is a laser something premium platinum plug. What the heck is in these that is worth $10??
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    That's cheap. Most of the plugs that are Platinum run $15+ at retailers. I got mine for $9 at a distributor. Where do you guys live that shocks cost nothing to install and platinum plugs cost $5?

    -mike
  • cobbocobbo Member Posts: 34
    Don't sweat the belt exchange...it's about a 2 minute job including distractions....the key to the whole process is making sure you have the right wrench for the tension pulley, then the rest is a snap...I've replaced mine on the Troop more than once and I'd be willing to bet I could do it in 30 seconds if I had to....
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    The labor to install my Rancho RS9000x ran $40 for all 4 last summer. BTW, Samsoffroad has their annual sale going on which includes shipping.
  • silverghostsilverghost Member Posts: 154
    That's a great price! Who did the job for you?
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