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Comments
Also helps when removing that #6 spark plug!
Maybe my mind is in the gutter, but I was really trying to avoid picturing you removing wiper blades with your mouth...
Look at the wiper blade where it attaches to the arm. There is a pivoting rivet. feel on the underside of the wiper blade (again the metal part), it is actually a U channel. About 1" from the pivot/rivet you will feel a springy plastic lever/tab. Push the lever/tab slightly and move the entire wiper blade/refill toward the center - down the arm. The entire unit will slide off. To install, simply push it back into the wiper arm bracket until it "clicks." This works for the front ones too. May be easier to see if you look at the front blades first.
Mark.
-mike
If your wiper wipes, it has to clear. I know you have larger tires and likely larger spare, but surely you have room to push JUST the wiper itself 1 inch to the right. At most, you need to move the wiper AWAY from the glass maybe 1". Again, has nothing to do with the spring loaded arm, just the rubber blade and what that attaches to. Works fine with the stock spare at least.
Not a big deal though, I just take off my spare tire.
-mike
I thought I read somewhere that CR faked the tests aand were haul ed into court....but the damage was done...
have fun with your SUVs ...
No Money For Isuzu, But Vindication (Car Connection)
In the Latest Crash Tests, Rollover Ratings, 7 SUVs tipped up on two wheels. (NHTSA)
Steve, Host
I do think I stopped it in the horizontal position just to make it easier. I did not remove the spare tire. I did replace the entire arm. I used the typical NAPA replacement blades.
Thanks for those links. For anyone who hasn't seen those sites before, its a great source of info. to help clear up this question of rollover danger. If memory serves, CU recently warned (mildly) that the Toyota Tacoma they tested had a tendency to lift one wheel in a turn. I like Tacos but they've always seemed narrow and tall to me and I suspect an agressive driver could roll one even more easily than a Trooper. Yet, CU has not made the Tacoma test result into a major story as it did with the Trooper, they just (if I recall correctly) dropped their "recommended" rating. Before my first Trooper I looked hard at 4-Runners and for various reasons I would have needed some seat hardware if I bought one. What struck me when searching salvage yards on the net to check pricing (for the parts I needed) was that there were a lot of 4Runners around which had been totalled in rollovers. Needless to say, there have also been a lot of 4Runners sold, etc. but both the Taco and 4Runner seem as vulnerable to rollover as the Trooper. So I side with those who feel that Isuzu was unfairly singled out when in fact the potential for rollover exists to some extent in all SUVs and pickups.
Rear Wiper: Replacement intervals are so long that one might as well pull the cover and spare to inspect the latter and to reset tire pressure.
Cheers,
Sean
..
Loaded: for me 65 mph with 4 people and a lot of stuff aboard and 2 bikes hanging on the back gives 18.5 mpg. I have not had a chance to test this Trooper while towing anything.
Sean
I've searched through all the old posts but can't find any hints. There appears to be a push-thru plug with ears that spring out once it's inside the hole, but I can't reach it to squeeze the ears together. How do I get this thing off without mangling something??
Recently I found this on ebay.
2000 Trooper with 65720 miles on it. Its been sold by a reputed Volvo dealer who claims to have got the Trooper as a trade-in for a Volvo.
Interior looks absolutely clean, Exterior is perfect. 4X4 with Automatic, 4WD, CD Changer with Tape, Running Boards, Alloys, Privacy Glass,
Power Seat, ABS, Airbags etc...Asking price earlier was 12,990 now reduced to $10,990.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1- &item=2482374586&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
I am planning to put a third row seat if I buy this one.
Questions:
When I test drive, is there any specific area I should focus on...known problem area, etc?
Is there any major scheduled maintenance to be done around 60 K ? like timing belt, water pump etc
Anyone put in a third row seat in thr trooper from places like this? http://www.littleseats.com/ ? How is the third row comfort?
Appreciate your help. Thanks
1. This is an S model, not an authentic LS. Check with "Paisan." He has a REAL '00 LS, and mine is an '01. The LS had (among other things) a single color paint scheme, mesh allow wheels, LS badging on the C-pillars, fog lights, body colored mirrors, body side protection strips, chrome door window reveal moldings, front seat arm rests, leather-wrapped steering wheel and shifter handle, and 6-disc CD changer (the photos clearly show an empty storage bin where the factory changer is supposed to be mounted).
2. The tire and wheel size specs are obviously wrong, and there are no running boards unless they were removed (unlikely) for the photos. That, and the phony LS pitch, leads me to conclude there may be other statements that are less than accurate.
3. I don't remember if power seats were even available on the 2000 S model, and those photos are inclusive. They were standard on the '00 and '01 LS, and they were heated. It would be prudent to confirm that they are in fact there.
4. I haven't run price comps, but my gut tells me that $11K is high for a 2000 S model. Particularly since the factory warranty expired at 60K.
A search of this forum will turn up lots of maintenance items to check on. At 65K, the timing belt, water pump and brakes SHOULD be okay. They should still be inspected, though.
All fluids, but most importantly the transmission fluid, should have been changed at least once already. That 4L30 shift box tends to develop varnish and sludge. So if it's never been changed, I think most would agree that flushing now will only create problems. Just drain and fill 2-3 times over 30 days or so, and you shoud be okay.
Although spark plugs are supposedly good for 100K, they should have been changed around 40K. A search will turn up several siezed plug stories.
The most likely problem you might encounter is oil consumption. Some 3.5L Troopers burn a quart in 1000-1500 miles. Others, like my '01 LS, don't burn any. EGR carbon buildup seems to make matters worse, so periodic cleaning is advisable.
I may be wrong, but I think the maintenance schedule calls for the wheel bearings to be repacked at 60K.
The 4WD components are an unknown to me, 'cause mine is 2WD. But run a search. There are some potential problem areas. As for the third row seat, you're on your own. IIRC, there have been safety issues with all of them.
Hope this gives you some direction. Work this board, 'cause a lot of folks here know way more than I.
Dave
-------------------------
The story of this 2000 ISUZU TROOPER S/LS/LIMITED (JACDJ58X7Y7J17055) according to our interpretation of the information reported to CARFAX:
This SUV has had 2 owners and was owned in Montana and Arizona. It was originally registered to a rental agency and operated as a daily rental passenger vehicle.
It has had no minor or moderate accidents reported to CARFAX.
It has had no DMV-reported total loss events, like a major accident, fire or flood.
It has a consistent mileage history with no indication of an odometer rollback.
The last odometer reading, reported on 07/22/2001, was 7,485 miles.
-------------------------------------------
This means that the average miles per year is almost 20K miles for the last 3 years.....which I think tells that most of the miles are highway miles??
Those rental units muddy the water, because the rental companies called them LS's. But they were simply S models optioned with maybe electric seats and tinted windshield. That didn't make them true LS's, though.
Don't know about the "highway miles" premise, but if it indeed spent most of its life in Arizona and Montana, I'd guess that's a safe presumption.
BTW I am going to add a tow hitch. Not going to do a lot of towing and was wondering if a transmission cooler is needed. Also notice there is no transmission dip stick. Is this how all the new vehicles are..no more checking the transmission unless you get the dealer to throw up on on the rack? I guess I'm used to older tech cars eh?
It is an Rental model. Indicators of rental fleet vehicles include:
No in-glass antenna combined with factory tinted rear/side windows.
2-tone with Power driver seat.
Those are the dead giveaways that it was the special fleet troopers sold to rental car companies. I wouldn't touch this one unless it was in the 6K range. I'd also call and threaten to contact the better business board.
-mike
Keep you posted
I don't think it is play in the column or gear since the wheels are fine when jacked up and tightening/loosing the gear has no effect. I had my whole column replaced under warranty already about 2 years back to see if that would fix it.
Last year I tried unsuccessfully to get this fixed again. They said that while they agree it is there, they cannot find anything wrong or loose.
With my warranty up in a month, I am not sure if I should drop it off and say fix it or else agree to extend the warranty on it? Or if I should ignore it and let it just be there? Most likely they won't do a thing and I will have to spend several hours back and forth to make nothing happen. I am just worried about the cost 1 year from now if I have a problem. I got Isuzu corporate involved both times, the first time they replaced the column, then when Isuzu was on the ropes, they would barely return my calls.
On Saturday, the check engine light was on in my 99 Trooper. It is a S, with 78000 miles. So I send it to the dealer today. They said it is the gasket problem in the engine. Same problem happened when the car was around 40000 miles. It becomes chronic disease now. It takes $340 to install a new one.
Do you guys have the same experience? And can you guys find cheaper places to repair it?
Thanks!
Pete
-mike
..
My 2 cents:
All of the "rental fleet" Troopers I test drove, even with only 15K miles, desperately needed the shocks replaced and I would do the OME springs too.
..
All but one of the rental fleet Troopers had mismatched tires. Mismatched tires are very bad for limited slips in differentials. These tires were not very old, but were very "bottom of the line" so they would need replaced immediately also.
..
A pair of rental fleet Troopers with nearly the same Vehicle ID#s with nearly the same mileage, had radically different wear and tear on them, look each one over carefully in every detail, sit in each seat belt position and put on each seat belt, etc....
..
I have a LittlePassengerSeat from my 1995, I have not yet installed it in my 2001. The seat is built very very strong. It bolts in with 4 each 3/8-24 grade-8 bolts. The brackets stay in place with the seat out which makes it about a 10 minuted task to take the seat out or put it back. The seat I have does not fold. I mounted it facing rear for easy access to load kids through the back door. This creates a significant hidden space between the middle and new third row, enough for my tools and a few extra things like a small step ladder.
I'm really thinking of taking this somewhere else for a quote. Does anyone make aftermarket disks/pads?
Rear brakes: $766 is high on the brakes. I had mine done (by my regular mechanics) after I bought this (2nd) 1999 Trooper and I think it was under $400. The higher end Wagner rotors are supposed to be pretty good and my mechanics used NAPA "Gold" rotors which they have had good experience with. The NAPA "Gold" stuff seems to be good in general, for example, the "Gold" oil filter is actually a high end WIX, etc. The cheaper aftermarket rotors will warp more easily I'm told and a greater percentage of them are out of round fresh from the box. Good quality rear rotors for the Trooper seem to run $80-$110 each.
Intake Gasket: Mine was done at about 45K (before I bought the vehicle) and I think that when it needs to be done again, I'll do it myself (unless time is scarce). Fortunately, the truck doesn't seem to need that yet but I've love to read comments from list members who've done that replacement themselves. As I recall, it isn't brain surgery.
Cheers,
Sean
Thanks for confirming my suspicions.
My '00 LS is over 67,000 on the original brakes. I'm thinking about replacing the pads.. and considering leaving the rotors alone. The original Isuzu pads have been absolutely NO dust (vs the Jeep GCL my wife drove until we traded it 6 weeks ago..it was MAX dust.) I'm almost afraid to go with even the ceramic 'dustless' aftermarket pad because of that. Have not priced them locally, but have seen posts that St Charles Isuzu in Missouri gives a decent price.
Bill
-mike
Are you sitting down...my shop charges only $42.00 an hour for labor and the only people to work on the vehicles are the two owner-operators. I have friends who own BMW motorcycle dealerships and I know they're getting close to $100/hour for labor.
Still waiting for my OMEs to arrive.
Sean