Isuzu Trooper

paisan · June 2004

are just a name for car ones. They are ok rotors but nothing special.

-mike

seanreid · June 2004

Badge-engineering...it's everywhere now. Brembo actually means something in motorcycle brakes - too bad they've been willing to sell their name as a rubber stamp. In that case, I'd recommend the higher end Wagner rotors or NAPA's higher end house brand rotors.

Cheers,

Sean

tkevinblanc · June 2004

Brembo means something special for cars, too, at least for small performance cars. Many of the modified little rice rockets sport Brembo brakes in bright colors behind their open spoked wheels...

Dunno how it could mean much for truck rotors, but I'll bet they aren't junk. I wouldn't mind Napa, either.

Paisan, you got a real good deal on front rotors from Pep Boys, right?

I think if the rotors are less than $75 each, it's probably not even worth turning them and making them thinner and more warp-prone.

paisan · June 2004

Those were rears, paid like $75 each for them. Now that I have access to a distributor for parts, I can get brembos ad some crazy prices I think ~$60/each or something for F/R.

-mike

df2000 · June 2004

TireRack sell Brambo rotor for $68 and some pretty good set of pads under $70.And I think you can find brambos even cheape on the Web.
I use Raybestos PG Plus pads for $28, very little to no dust at all, they were OK on rear for 4yr/50K, store offer lifetime warranty, just bring weared out in and get new one free, change pads easy and take about an hour. I have Pepboys Prostop pad on another car, MAX source of black dust, changed these many times, b/c they just good for 3 yr, for free also (PB used to offer lifetime warranty), they should be made by Raybestos also and kind off similar to pg plus, go figure.

bsmart1 · June 2004

It seems that ISUZU has a history of rear rotors warping due to over-torque and that leading to highway speed vibrations. Anyone else on this board experience this phenom?? I've had rotors turned by the dealer to reduce warpage, but it didn't eliminate the problem.

seanreid · June 2004

I installed the Hidden Hitch on my Trooper this evening (saved from the first 1999 Trooper) and all went fine with the mounting (requires patience, dealing with rusty bolts, etc. - the usual) and then I plugged the Hoppy adapter I saved (from the other Trooper)into the existing Trooper plug (under the rubber grommet and above the tail pipe...but got no juice to the trailer lights). I'll go through the usual tests etc. but I wondered if there was anything quick and easy that my addled mind may have overlooked. Like...is that plug on its own circuit or wired in parallel with the tail lights, etc.? Thanks in advance for any suggestions. I'll start testing tomorrow afternoon.

By the way, thank you again Mike for that Hidden Hitch suggestion back in 2002. It's such a perfect fit on the Trooper.

Cheers,

Sean

paisan · June 2004

Just got my car hauler trailer back from getting new magnets. $500

Bummer. But it's doing well otherwise.

-mike

seanreid · June 2004

I installed the Hidden Hitch on my Trooper this evening (saved from the first 1999 Trooper) and all went fine with the mounting (requires patience, dealing with rusty bolts, etc. - the usual) and then I plugged the Hoppy adapter I saved (from 1999 Trooper 1)into the existing Trooper plug (under the rubber grommet and above the tail pipe...but got no juice to the trailer lights). I'll go through the usual tests etc. but I wondered if there was anything quick and easy that my addled mind may have overlooked. Like...is that plug on its own circuit or wired in parallel with the tail lights, etc.? Thanks in advance for any suggestions. I'll start testing tomorrow afternoon.

By the way, thank you again Mike for that Hidden Hitch suggestion back in 2002. It's such a perfect fit.

Cheers,

Sean

seanreid · June 2004

Anyone have any hints? Anything special to know about that plug?

Cheers,

Sean

bluedevils · June 2004

Sadly, we are considering selling our 1998 Trooper to my parents. Can you folks give me some input on what is a fair price for both parties. '98 Troop, Performance Package (automatic trans, TOD, adjustable front seats, CD changeer, etc.). 106k miles. Well maintained. Looks good inside and out but has a few small door dings.

No leather, no moonroof, no heated power seats.

I will check Edmunds for its estimate of value, but it's also nice to get feedback from other Trooper owners.

cwm · June 2004

Just purchased a 1998 Isuzu Trooper for my son for $6,250. I purchased it from a dealer, it was the Luxury model, 98K miles, very nice but not perfect, CD player missing, Green with gray leather interior.

CW
www.Isuzu.8k.com

raydahs · June 2004

Bluedevils, FYI - I traded in my 99' Performance pkg (103K mi) with Moonroof, Tow pkg and 5 premium wheels in immaculate condition with a cracked windshield for $6000.00. The deal was @ $700 over invoice. I got offers anywhere from 4K to 6K, depending on what the vehicle was. It wound up in Mexico to a friend (fishing buddy) of the used car sales manager. I took pictures of it the day it was traded, it was a good rig. I also took alot of stuff off/out (Lund bug guard & floor mats and stuff like that) when trading it in. Hope this helps.

bawbcat · June 2004

I put almost 500 miles on my 98 Troop this weekend, mostly going about 75 mph on the highway with the AC on, and averaged about 16.5 mpg for the trip. This is about typical for me. The only surprise is that hills had less of an impact on mpg than I expected. My trip included a significant elevation change, from about 2000ft to 7000ft. On the uphill part of the trip including some driving at the high elevation, I still got about 15mpg. On the return trip, mostly downhill and flat, I got less than 18 mpg. I expected more of a difference. I could definitely feel a power descrease at the high elevation.

peterisme · June 2004

check engine light

Last week, I sent my 99 Trooper to dealer because the check engine light was on. They changed Intake Gasket (2nd time). Two days later, the check engine light was on again. So we sent the Trooper to dealer again. This time, they cannot find the reason. Finally, the mechanic suggested us to switch another brand of gas (shell) and try plus gas (89). They said, in the summer the gas in Chicago area is trash because they add thing to protect air. So far, the car runs OK. Do you guys have similar experience?

sbcooke · June 2004

Yes. Was in an out of the dealership for a week. First 3/4 times they couldn't find anything wrong, 50 feet out of the lot the CEL would come on again. Finally they found the IMG was bad and replaced it. The day I picked it up the CEL came on again...they said it was probably just a fluke. It didn't re-occur...well I have gotten 2 other CELs since then, but spaced way apart and probably some kind of air flow issue. I just pull the battery cables now...will only bring it in if there is a noticeable performance issue, since having the dealer say "we couldn't find anything" and spending a day to get that isn't quite worth it.

bsmart1 · June 2004

Price on the Street - person to person $6800

Price to a Dealer - $4800

Price to a Friend or Family - Priceless!!

bsmart1 · June 2004

Trooper died and wouldn't start.

Checked and no fuel getting to the engine.

Checked and the fuel filter was plugged almost solid.

Replaced and still no fuel to the engine.

Called mechanic.

Mechanic said fuel pump is BAD.

Tow bill.

Repair bill $300

Filters are cheaper than pumps.

Keep an eye on your fuel filter.

paisan · June 2004

And easy to swap in.

Just got back from the dealer. Getting new cats finally! Somehow I had to pay a $95 fee for the diagnostics but i'm not crying considering that they are like $900/each for the parts.

Getting the timing belt, water pump and tensioner done as well for $725. Probably a ripoff but what you gonna do.

-mike

sbcooke · June 2004

How did you know they were bad? Did you fail emissions testing?

paisan · June 2004

Had an intermittent CEL for Bank 1 and Bank 2 Catylst Inefficiency. No emissions testing where I register my car.

-mike

silverghost · July 2004

All the Trooper folks on holiday? Can't believe there hasn't been a post in two days.

silverghost · July 2004

I got an '01 LS 2WD, 38K, 19-20 mpg hwy at 75 mph w/AC pumpin', ZERO oil burning, no CELs, no IMG prob, clean EGR/PCV, CD changer is good, no baked CATs or seized plugs(yet) . . . I'm feelin' just a little outa' the mainstream! Ut-oh! Is that a rust spot on the left parking brake drum? Would kinda like to upgrade tires and shocks . . . but . . . why?

silverghost · July 2004

somebody get the lights on their way out.

tidester · July 2004

We'll all be back after we get the BBQ grills fired up! :-)

tidester, host

peterisme · July 2004

two weeks ago, check engine light was on, sent the car to dealer, changed intake gasket;

two days later, the light was on again. This time, the dealer cannot find the problem. Suggest me to switch to a better gasoline brand and try plus grade gas.

This week, the light came out again. I found the light came out when the engine speed reached 3000 r/m, (Maybe DHOC (?) kicked in at that time)
Bored of going to the dealer, just disconnected the battery cable (thanks sbcooke). So far everything is OK.

bstone3 · July 2004

Just completed a move from Alabama to Montana - where I am originally from. Sold the house, quit the job and moved north. 1900 mile trip and the 01 Trooper LS TOD did just fine. My wife drove it following me in the biggest U-Haul truck there is towing a transporter loaded up with a Nissan King Cab 4X4. Crossed 11 states to get here - took 3.5 days. The Trooper actually got 22 MPG on some of the legs but that was because she followed me at 45-60 mph. The 26 ft U-Haul got 7.5 MPG. Trooper used 1/4 quart of Wall Mart brand 5-40 synthetic. Trooper has 53K miles on it now and runs and looks like new. We plan to keep it until it drops over dead.

boxtrooper · July 2004

I got 28.5 mpg with my old 1984 1.9L Trooper 4 speed following a Uhaul helping move a friend several states away back in 1992. I also got 28+ mpg with this Trooper back in 1985 in Alaska because I drove a full tank of gas distance with a 50+mph tail wind. Normally at 55 mph (remember 55mph speed limits of long ago?) it got 22 to 24mpg. At 72mph (4100 RPM!) it got 19 mpg. At 65 mph with a canoe on top it got 15 mpg, with an 11 gallon gas tank 15 mpg is a PITA to stop so often on a long trip.

crqflier · July 2004

I just replaced the front and rear pads on our 1995 LS (for the first time at 88,500 miles believe it or not and still had "10%" left!) with high-end (expensive) ceramic pads thinking they'd be the best (just starting to tow trailers). They work great, but they create significantly more dust than the OE pads ever did. Given the choice again, I'd probably stick with the OE pads - can't argue with 88k miles on the original set. Rotors are still in great shape, had them turned. Also, check into repacking the bearings when you've got the brakes off - expensive, but much less than the alternative.

crqflier · July 2004

Just returned from a 1700 mile trip up the coast of California and back - about 700 of those miles towing a 20ft, 4000lb travel trailer through the coastal mountains north of San Francisco. Here's some insight on a lot of the topics recently posted. Thanks to everyone on their input prior to our trip.

Our car - 1995 LS (SOHC engine), automatic, completely stock other than additions noted below, with 88,500 miles before the trip. OE springs with Bilstien shocks and Michelin LTX 255/70/16 tires. Typically get 13 mpg daily driving.

Preparing for the trip we did the following:
1. Trailer hitch from UHaul installed with all wiring and a Prodigy brake controller - $450.
2. Hayden heavy duty "rapid cool" transmission cooler #678 - $200 installed.
3. Ceramic brake pads front and back (first new brake pads since new) and flush/fill with DOT 4 brake fluid - $600.
4. Transmission power flush and fill $100.
5. Power flush and fill radiator $70.
6. Airlift 1000 airbags in the rear springs installed - $200.
7. Mobil 1 oil and filter change - first time ever using synthetic on the trooper.

The trip: 500 miles San Diego to San Jose - fully loaded with stuff. AC was on most of the time. Averaged 15-18mpg at 70-75 mph depending on terain. Picked up the trailer (Thor Tahoe Lite 19UD)in San Jose. 700 miles towing the trailer through the mountains, winding roads, etc. averaged 10-12 mpg - both trailer and trooper loaded with stuff - very close to max GVWR on trooper and about 4000lbs of trailer. Lots of wind, lots of hills (mountains actually), and some pretty congesting city freeway driving (through San Fran/Oakland). 500 miles back to San Diego after dropping off the trailer.

Comments:
1. The Trooper handled the trip really well, Be aware of engine speed when towing up hill. Not sure about the power curves, but 34-3500 RPM is a sweet spot, keep that in mind and you can go 60 mph up any reasonable freeway hill in 3rd. If you forget, you're looking at 42-45mph in second at 4500 rpm. Don't tow in "D".
2. The airbags make a big difference in ride-height, bounce, and sway. Unfortunately i know this because a hose broke on our third day, so half the trip was made with the bags, the other half without. My guess is that the OME springs would help equally well. Decided on the bags instead of the OME springs because neither OME nor the shop would "guarantee" that the springs would work with the bilstein shocks (concern about too much travel, over-extending the shocks).
3. Transmission cooler probably helped, but no way of really knowing. I'd install one if you've got any concerns - way cheaper than a new transmission.
4. The Prodigy brake controller is the best - no reason to not get one if you don't already own a brake controller. They are twice the price of regular controllers, but way, way better.
5. We rented a Weight Distribution hitch with the trailer, it helps a lot. Would have been marginal but do-able without it. I'd definitely use one again towing a similar load.
6. I would definitely not tow a larger or heavier/longer trailer than we towed (combined with a loaded trooper) - at least not for long distances or in hilly/mountain terain.
7. No mechanical issues or concerns at all. No issues with engine temp. No oil consumed (our trooper has never used any oil between changes). No transmission concerns.
8. Mobil 1 "enhances" the sticking lifter clicking noise that typically develops in our engine at about 2500 miles after a usual oil change. Mechanics have told me that the clicking noise is from dirty oil. Oil changes usually eliminate the noise. Not so with Mobil 1. It's actually louder now (and immediately after changing) than it's ever been. Go figure.

Hope this helps anyone considering towing, transmission coolers, brakes, hitches, etc. since I've seen a lot of discussion on those topics.

stever · July 2004

Suzuki Drops Lawsuit Vs Consumer Reports. (Reuters)

Steve, Host

silverghost · July 2004

Just emphasizes how deep CR's pockets are!

BTW, glad to see the lights back on :-)

silverghost · July 2004

Swapped out the stock '01 LS headlamp bulbs for Sylvania SilverStars a couple weeks ago. Based solely on a limited amount of nighttime driving since then, I gotta say that I like 'em! I can't swear that they're much brighter than the stock bulbs, but perceptually, they seem to illuminate the road more sharply. I personally think the 25 Ebay bucks weren't a total waste!

wildbuc · July 2004

Thanks very much for the trip report. I do question the advice regarding towing in drive, however, since that would seem to be determined by the towing load. I returned today from a 7 day trip down the Blue Ridge Parkway towing a 2800 lb camper. On the parkway I towed mostly in 3rd but sometimes in 2nd on steep grades. Leaving the mountains and going home over flat country, I was able to tow very easily in drive, with no hunting of the tranny for lower gears.

Some guys say to never tow in overdrive (drive in the Trooper), while others say it is fine depending on the vehicle and load. I frankly have never obtained any clear info one way or the other upon which to make a choice, but my actual experience indicates that if your Trooper is not straining while towing, it is okay to tow in drive. Anybody with better advice please speak up.

raydahs · July 2004

FYI - Found this on another site, Thanks to KMEAD!

iceLink v1.1 for iPod and certain 1998-2002 Toyotas (some to -2004) Vehicles
Compatibility:
Acura 1998-2002 SLX
Honda 1998-2001 Passport.
Isuzu 1998-2001 Amigo, 1998-2001 Rodeo/Sport, 1998-2001 Trooper

http://densionusa.com/merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store- - - _Code=DU&Product_Code=I11_TOYOTA_R1&Category_Code=IA_Toyo- - - ta

boxtrooper · July 2004

After towing the tick may be "louder than ever" because you have run the engine harder than ever. I used to tow a 4000# trailer regularily with my 1995 Trooper 3.2L 5 speed and never had the lifter tick until the first time I towed. I happenned to be using Mobil1 oil and Mobil1 Filter for that first towing. I think what causes the lifter ticking is dirt, driving hard produces a lot more dirt in the oil. I think my high performance Mobil1 filter got out a lot of dirt especially the extra small particles, but since the Mobil1 filter goes after the smaller particles and does not offer larger surface area for holding more dirt, it reached the point of bypassing. When the oil filter bypasses because of too much pressure drop, there is an easy path for some of the collected dirt to go back out into the engine....
..
My solution: use a larger filter. There exists a direct replacement oil filter by Purolator Pure One PL24458. This filter is an inch taller than the stock one. Since the original is only 3 inches tall and at least an inch of that is lost space to the pressure valve and screw on parts, the original must have only 2 inches of filter paper. The PL24458 has an extra inch of length, all of this extra inch is more filter paper. Therefore, the PL24458 has 50% more dirt holding capacity. This filter combined with changing oil at the first sound of ticking or 3000 miles whichever comes first, eliminated the lifter tick noise.
..
BTW I used Valvoline SynPower full synthetic nearly all the time, but if you are changing your oil every 3000 anyway very little benefit comes from the synthetic. I like synthetic for easier cold starts and higher temperature tollerance even though niether of those were problems for my 1995 Trooper.

peterisme · July 2004

Check engine light III

The check engine light in my Trooper turned on again and again, so I disconnect the battery cable again and again to reset it. On Monday, I was bored of this game and brought it to the dealer (the third time). They turned me from bored into angry. They said (again) they couldnt find the problem. The light was on when I sent the car in. It seems some people reset the microcomputer, and then drive the car around the block to find whats going wrong. Sure, they cannot find the problem. When I told them, the light turned on when the engine speed reaches 3000 or 4000 rpm, the service manager said to me (literally): you shouldnt drive the car so fast, I never drive my car that fast. Come on, in Chicago, if you want to merge into the traffic, you have to step on your gas paddle. Yeah, they are also Buick dealer, so they should be used to 55 MPH. Anyway, I believe the guy is either a liar or an idiot. Later, I asked them to try to bring the engine speed above 3000+ rpm. The guy told me: we cannot do that unless you pay our mechanic to drive your car on expressway. My goodness, did my foreign accent made him feel safe to say that to me? Anyway, I have to say farewell to Billstill Buick Isuzu in Downers Grove. It seems they also plan to say good-bye to Isuzu too (maybe that the reason they treat Isuzu customers so bad). When I dropped my car in, I only saw 8 2003 Rodeos in their lot.

It is so sad that these idiots are destroying this great brand. (Maybe they already did it)

sdc2 · July 2004

That's pretty pathetic...an OHC engine like the 3.5L can rev up to 4 grand without even breathing hard. The guy must be used to pushrod V8s, my Tahoe rarely needs to go above 3 grand...but it is no harm even if it does!

Ask the guy what the redline is for on the tach.

sbcooke · July 2004

Find another shop. It would be worth $100 for diagnosis, then if it is a warranty item take it to the dealer...or better yet, a different dealer.

That is pathetic. You could also call Isuzu corporate and get them involved. However my personal luck down that route has been just as pathetic. It's too bad no one from Isuzu monitors web boards or gives much of a darn anymore.

My solution these days is to go to a trusted mechanic and pay...it is out of pocket, however 1/2 as much as dealer costs and less hassle. I am actually happy (knock wood) my warranty expires next month, that way I don't have to worry about the dealership experience anymore. Do I sound jaded?

PS I still enjoy driving my Trooper, and think it is a great truck, it is the time and energy I have expended getting dealerships to recognize problems...It took me 4 trips (30 minutes each way) and 5 CELs to get them to replace the intake manifold gaskets.

pe1227 · July 2004

You could also take it to Autozone. They will read the computer for free. Don't know if they are in Chicago, but I have used them a few times for the check engine light. Hope this helps,

Paul

sbcooke · July 2004

I turned on TOD last night in the rain and got some driveline binding while turning in a parking lot. I have never had a binding issue with it before and wondering what this could possibly be? I assume it is with either the hubs or the clutching mechanism that is used with TOD? Backing out of a parking space and turning or doing a semi tight circle. Has anyone else experience this?

I understand that part time 4wd (i.e. our 4-low) will bind in such circumstances, but TOD has never exhibited this behavior for me?

Fortunately I have 3 weeks left on my warranty...so while the shop may tell me it is "normal" and not do a damn thing about it...which is what I totally expect, I am going to make sure they give me some kind of extension on this specific problem. It is new to my truck, and I don't think "normal". I hope this doesn't have to become a war with Isuzu to get coverage on getting a new transfer case...hopefully I am just low on fluid or something simple.

PS did I mention that I am peeved that I have to go to the dealership. Unfortunately this could be an expensive repair, so I am going to have to deal with them.

sdc2 · July 2004

It shouldn't bind in 4Hi...I have made full-lock parking lot turns without binding.

It would have to be the TOD transfer case, or more likely one of the sensors that deliver information to the TOD computer.

sbcooke · July 2004

Thanks, that is what I think too.

I just got off the phone with the dealer...they told me that "some binding in 4wd is 'normal'". Ugh. I explained that TOD should not function that way, is designed for dry pavement, never has happened to me before, etc.

I was also thinking that maybe one of the sensors got wet, maybe that could be the issue. I have an appointment 2 weeks out due to vacation so I have a few days to try to figure out what is going on.

They did say it would be no problem honoring the warranty, "if there is a problem".

tkevinblanc · July 2004

TOD differentiates between the front axle and the back axle, not between the wheels of the front axle. Before you assume it's TOD, could the sensation have been antilock? Full-lock turns while braking, especially while TOD is providing power to the front differential does promote some antilock jutter. At least, that's been my experience.

As excellent as TOD is, I think at low speeds, it's pretty much always delivering 10% to the front axle.

sbcooke · July 2004

I was going under 5 MPH, no braking. The front differential is open, so the left and right should be able to turn at different speeds.

I assume it is in the TOD system because when I turn it off it goes away instantaneously.

Your point is valid though, it isn't clear what is wrong, it may not be mechanical, it may be a sensor problem, however the wheels are scrubbing along the pavement, which feels a lot like the drivetrain is binding, which makes me think it is a problem with the clutching in the transfer case.

Thanks for the feedback.

tkevinblanc · July 2004

Or maybe its the LS rear differential... you didn't have that lubricant changed recently, did you?

I imagine that if the rear wheels couldn't be differentiated (yeah, I know, it's not a word) it could push the truck in funny ways...

I'll try it tonight and let you know what happens in my truck.

sbcooke · July 2004

Thanks, another test point would be great. I don't think it is the rears since there is nothing in 2wd. Nothing recently, last year I had a full transmission and axle fluid swap. I used TOD with no issues just a few days ago.

I was thinking it might be due to recent rain, however it happened right away last night, so while it was raining, the truck was only in a parking spot getting rained on, if it happened right after going through deep standing water, then that might make sense.

I am going to try shifting in and out of 4-low and TOD a few times prior to my next test.

tkevinblanc · July 2004

I wonder if it's only noticeable on wet roads? Maybe with the decreased traction the tires can slide more easily? I didn't get to check last night, but I will try it soon.

sbcooke · July 2004

It binds on wet and dry (at least since 2 days ago). I tried going in and out of 4wd low backing up, engaging after the truck is warmed up, nothing.

It seems to be functioning fine as far as engaging and being in 4wd (I think), 2 bars light up when slippage occurs and everything. Since I have no "check" lights on, I think it must be mechanical, like a problem with the electromagnetic clutch in the transfer case? But it could be a sensor thing, who knows.

Good thing, I am happy this happened 3 weeks before by warranty is up.

Bad thing, Fortunately I am not going on my yearly trip to Nantucket. If I was I could be having a problem with 4wd on vacation, when I would be using it. So the bad is...can I still trust this vehicle beyond a daily driver? Can I take the family on vacation with it...I am not so sure anymore. 5 years old, 38K miles.

chas2 · July 2004

Have 99 Trooper Perf. Pkg. Need to tow with it but can't figure out why draw-tite elect. harness is not getting any power. This was original harness that came with the Trooper. Does anyone know if there a fuse that needs to be put in so the harness will have power? or any other thoughts.

Thanks

Isuzu Trooper

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