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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jal012773jal012773 Member Posts: 63
    My 2001 Blazer 4x4 has developed a noise in the steering. Only when I turn the steering wheel to the right I can hear kind of a grinding noise. It's hard to explain and it's not that loud, but when I turn the wheel to the left, everything is normal. I'm not sure if it has always made this noise and I have just now noticed it or if something might be going wrong with the power steering pump. I've just recently replaced the idler and pitman arms as well as the lower ball joints. Any ideas or common problems out there?
  • rogerm4rogerm4 Member Posts: 10
    I just replaced the battery in my 98 Blazer, and now when I start the truck, the interior lights flash off and on for awhile. I know it has something to do with the security system, but does anyone know how to reset it?
  • njapfnjapf Member Posts: 1
    In my Jimmy the automatic button for rear glass hatch will work, I can hear it but it doesn't release the catch so it will not open. I need to open it to get to the moving parts (lock parts). Has any one got a solution for me
  • jal012773jal012773 Member Posts: 63
    I'm wanting to replace the tail lights on my 2001 Blazer with APC Euro Tails. I have looked the tail lights over and believe I can remove the old ones myself, but knowing how mechanically declined I am, I'm a little hesitant to try this myself. Can anyone give me an idea about what's involved here? It looks simple, but that's where I usually foul up.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Document ID# 389661

    2001 Chevrolet/Geo Blazer - 2WD

     

    Tail Lamp Replacement (Utility)

     

    Removal Procedure

     

    Open the endgate or liftgate.

    Remove the screws that retain the tail lamp assembly to the vehicle.

    Rotate the bulb sockets 1/4 turn counter-clockwise in order to remove the bulb sockets from the tail lamp assembly.

      

    Installation Procedure

      

    Install the bulb sockets to the tail lamp assembly by rotating the sockets 1/4 turn clockwise.

    Install the tail lamp assembly to the vehicle.

    Install the screws that retain the tail lamp assembly to the vehicle.

    Tighten the screws to 1.9 N·m (17 lb in).
  • cpocpo Member Posts: 23
    How funny post # 1000 represents my last one for my Jimmy. He's given me a lot of unfortunate reasons to write you all here; but, alas - no more. I traded it for a used Camry last week and just tonight I read over 70 favorable posts in the Camry section of this forum and now am so relieved to be done with it! I lost a lot of cash driving the Jimmy. I could not let the madness continue, most recently having to spend $600 on a new fuel pump. Instead I kept my money and bought the Toyota. I don't understand why this generation of Blazer/Jimmy are clearly so poorly built. Well, whatever. I don't care. I love this Camry so far. I find great comfort, knowing that so many find Camrys a fine, high quality automobile so worthy of all its accolades. Good luck to those of you hanging on to your utes. Oh, and happy New Year!!
  • kpannkpann Member Posts: 13
    Have a '98 Blazer 2WD and going to give to my son and he wants to put big tires on it, I saw a post that someone put 30/9.5/15 T/A's. Wondering if anyone else has gone with big tires, concerned about front tires hitting the fender wells when turning sharp. He also wants to add a 2" body lift. Any suggestions would be helpful.
  • squ1adsqu1ad Member Posts: 1
    I have read several posts on 97-2000 blazers with leaking oil lines. Does anyone kow if there is any TSB's or recalls on this product. Or what dealerships are doing for this problem. I have a 2000 blazer and I noticed a leak, several friends of mine have had similar problems and after reading this I see this is not uncommon.
  • cage47cage47 Member Posts: 17
    I picked up one of the prestone backflush kits. You have to cut one of the heater core lines and install the adapter with clamps. Then you hook a hose up to that and run the water through it. I let it go for a half hour. It's been almost 2 years now and I've had no trouble.
  • cage47cage47 Member Posts: 17
    I bought my 98 blazer used two years ago. It had 65k miles on it. It was a lease buyback so it was meticulously maintained. However the first year I had a number of issues I had to deal with. First off the a/c cut out after only 4 months. I had the drier and low pressure switch replaced and it was fine. Then six months later the compressor died. That is getting fixed next month. The left side abs sensor gave out $60 from dealer only. I have the idler arm going bad that's going to be fixed next month also. But I had the intermittent wiper motor problem. I fixed it myself by taking the module out and resoldering the connector solder joints. Also keep an eye out for any burnt circuits. I had a burnt circuit an inch along one edge. I had to use a piece of stripped phone wire to jump the circuit to the next solder joint. Did that 3 months after Igot the truck and it's worked flawlessly since. I keep a hawks eye on my oil coolant lines and thankfully they seem fine. I was getting 23 mpg until a few months back when I replaced the fuel filter. I now get 21 mpg but I have more power. But still from what I hear that is excellent gas milage. Of course mine is regular 2wd not 4x4. But I do see that problem with the driver side front door hinge. I'm thinking of using some vacuum line connectors to make that drain tube reach down past the hinge. I can see I'm going to need to replace those bushings soon. And half the lights in my cd player are dead. It works fine so I leave it but it is annoying at night not seeing 2 and 5 and a couple others. I did think it was going bad but found out my back right speaker died so I just replaced that, no probs now.

     

    I have also switched my truck over from the dex-crap to green prestone. Don't let anyone fool you into saying you couldn't/can't. I'm going on a year and 7 months with no problems. You just have to make sure you completely flush it. I had a good amount of that "mud" come out when I did mine. I also found that my water pump was bad when I did it but that was an easy fix.easiest water pump I've ever replaced on a vehicle. Granted I feel like I got one of the shining stars but I swear by my Blazer. I just can't wait to trade in my old car for a newer grand am so I can give it to the wife and get my truck back.
  • rjorge3rjorge3 Member Posts: 144
    Cliffwilson, I am having the same problem as spknrich on my 1999 Jimmy SLT. After I drive it and come to a stop, put it in Park, I have a hard time getting it out of Park. I have to play around with the shifter release button in order to get it out of park.

     

    My question to you is, can still be the solenoid? I thought that if it was bad, then you could not move the shifter altogether

     

    Also, I replaced my transfer case three months ago, but when I press the button for 4Low the light flashes, but it does not engage in 4Low (light does not become steady. Do you guys think is a problem with the new transfer case? The other settings (2, 4High, 4Auto) work just fine.

     

    Thanks,

     

    R
  • shoe shine boyshoe shine boy Member Posts: 1
    my wife owns a 2001 GMC Jimmy SLT that she bought new in the summer of 2001. Approximately a year and a half after she bought it, the gas mileage and power output seemed to drop dramatically. We were originally able to get about 400 miles or more on a tank of gas on the highway. Now we are lucky to get 275 mpg. The mileage clearly dropped after a visit to a GM dealer/mechanic. No mechanic since has been able to find anything wrong with the vehicle. Any thoughts?
  • ungarnungarn Member Posts: 5
    My Blazer situation:

     

    1999 Chevrolet Blazer, 4-wheel drive, 2-door, 82k miles

     

    While braking I experienced a “grinding” brake noise at the front of the Blazer along with the red brake warning light on the instrument panel. The Blazer was taken to Procare where they installed new rotors and replaced the front disc brake pads ($225). Amazingly this was the first time for any kind of brake service.

     

    When I received the Blazer the brake warning light would still illuminate under heavier and faster braking. No warning light for slow, steady, gradual braking. The pedal feel was also softer than before the brake service. There was also some high pitched braking noise. The Blazer was returned to Procare where they replaced the master cylinder and completely flushed the brake lines ($325).

     

    The brake pedal feel improved, but still the brake warning light would illuminate under heavier and faster braking. The high-pitched braking noise was also present. The Blazer was returned to Procare but they were unable to diagnose the problem. Procare sent the vehicle to a GMC dealership for diagnostic work. The GMC dealership indicated that the “Brake Pressure Modulation Valve” (BPMV) is the problem and that parts and labor would be $722. The Blazer is roughly worth $4500 as a trade-in so I am hesitant to put that much money into the vehicle.

     

    To Procare’s credit, they are refunding $325 because they misdiagnosed the master cylinder as the problem. Procare also paid for the GMC dealership diagnostic work.

     

    My questions:

     

    Should the BPMV really need replacement at 82k miles?

     

    Could something else be the problem, like wheel speed sensor, etc.?

     

    Is there a recall or tech service bulletin for such a problem?

     

    What should I do: Have a non-dealership mechanic assess the situation? Have a used BPMV installed? Put electrical tape over the light and keep smiling?

     

    Thank you, I look forward to your responses!

     

    -Thad
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    If I were you I would start considering trading the Blazer in and never look back. Blazer is a well-known high maintenance vehicle. After about 5 years and 82k miles, this Blazer seems to be practically done. Chances are other costly repairs will mushroom after this repair. Also there is no guarantee the dealer's BPMV will fix the problem to your satisfaction. Brake is a crucial safety component and a mere pretence as if there were no trouble and keeping driving would not be an option.
  • dave_mdave_m Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys, I'm looking to buy a Jimmy, and I've been looking at aftermarket parts for it on stylinconcepts.com On there they have the Jimmy divided into Jimmy(S15) and Jimmy(Fullsize not S15) My question is, what is the Jimmy S15? Is it the two door model and the four door model is the fullsize? The reason for my confusion is I thought the GMC S15 was a pickup?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    What you do is your call, but this will probably explain why the problem's there:

     

    http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/brkfld.shtml
  • chaparachapara Member Posts: 2
    I had my transmission replaced about a year ago on a "97 GMC jimmy. Alls fine except when I drive long distances, maybe over 70 miles, then going into 2nd gear it seems to go into gear roughly and it causes the engine light to go on which goes back out in a few days. Weird. Anyone have this problem or know what may be the problem? Thank you.
  • paulettepaulette Member Posts: 4
    In October 2004, I purchased a 1993 Jimmy. I think I have driven for all of a month. The truck had major problems starting when the weather started to turn colder. It's at the dealership now (not the dealership of purchase) and I have been told that I need a new fuel filter, a new injector unit and the distributor cap was going bad. I was also told that one of the body mounts was completely rusted away. The total cost including labor exceeds the cost of the truck.
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    What kind of recourse do you have in mind? How many miles did your 11-year old Jimmy have at the time of your purchase, and how many miles did you put on it? How much did you have to pay to buy your Jimmy?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    How much money do you have in the 1993 Jimmy? And how much is the estimate for repairs?

    The Fuel filter is simple, easy, and inexpensive, cost less that $10 for a fuel fiter.

    The Distributor Cap can't cost too much.

    The Injector Unit is where the money is at. I havn't had to replace mine in my 99', but I do know that they eventually do go bad.

    Good Luck.
  • paulettepaulette Member Posts: 4
    I really don't know...I just feel really ripped off...The car had 112000 miles on it and I put about 1k miles on it...it cost me about 2500...I anticipated a tune up but 1700 in repairs?
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    Sir (or Ma'am), I feel it for you. From my experience, my worst car purchase in my life was a used Audi S-5000 at 10500 miles for $4000. I loved that Audi for its look, but from the maintenance point of view, it was a nightmare, and I had to spend well over its purchase cost in less than a year. And I finally realized that the car had run its due life. I traded in that car, with reluctance, but it was a right decision. The dealer's salesman bought my Audi but he also had to spend a small fortune for repeated repairs and had to sell it quickly. Since then I have not purchased a used car and always drive a new car. I have a feeling that generally a high-mileage used car is sold to the market because that car started to have repeated troubles and the owner cannot pay for the repeated repair expenses. Unless you can repair the vehicles for yourself, I believe it clever to avoid high-mileage used cars. Good luck on your decisions.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    1700 to repair a 2500 car, I don't think that is a worthwhile investment. You could take the 1700 and probably buy a better car. I think the 1700 repair is way too stiff, You need to get other estimates. It is TOO LATE now, but the mistake was made at the time of purchase. Next time, when buying high milage used vehicles, remember that they must be throughly checked out by someone competent in automotive diagnosis and repair. When you find a vehicle that you really like, take it to a good mechanic, and have it checked out. Or have your mechanic go to the lot to check it out. It can save you a lot of headaches later. Also get a Carfax report on the vehicle to determine it's history to know if it has been wrecked or properly maintained.
  • cliffwilsoncliffwilson Member Posts: 25
    While the Automatic Shift Lock Solenoid's positioning of the Shift Lock Control is the heart of the safety system that prevents an inadvertent engagement of the transmission while it is in Park, it's not the whole system. The Park/Neutral Position Switch must properly feed current to the Stop Lamp Switch, which in turn supplies current (when depressed)to actuate the Shift Lock Solenoid. Most intermittent problems will be the result of an electrical wiring difficulty (poor connections, frayed wires, bad ground). There also is a mechanical synchronization between the Shift Lock Solenoid and the Shift Lock Control, which is the mechanism that actually locks the gear shift selector. If it is damaged or out of alignment, you can also encounter an inability to shift out of Park. The short answer to your question, is yes. A totally inoperative Shift Lock Solenoid will prevent engagement of the transmission consistently. Since you have an intermittent difficulty, it is more likely the cause is a wiring malady. It requires a check of the power distribution to the full system and a check of the grounding in the circuit. If the system's electrical circuit is fully functional, one must suspect the interface between the Shift Lock Solenoid and Shift Lock Control, which is adjustable.
  • dkfenndkfenn Member Posts: 2
    I'm joining a lagre percentage of Blazer owners here who've endured the Blazer shimmy, shake, and vibration. In the course of repair I've endured shaved knuckles and a lightening of my wallet and now have one more vibration issue that I think is nailed down to the u-joint, but wanted to get others' opinions, especially from fellow Blazer owners.

     

    Mine is a 1997 4X4 with 100K miles. I bought it used, but I imagine the u-joints are original equipment. I've recently replaced both LBJs, pitman arm, and idler arm. While the truck is definitely born again, there's one more vibration I'm trying to locate without further troubleshooting damage to my wallet.

     

    A slight vibration in the steering wheel and seat occurs at ~35 MPH during acceleration, and by 45-50 MPH is sending a low frequency noise (LFN) into the cab that makes my ear drums reverberate. It's not as bad on the highway, but the LFN will return to a lesser degree when accelerating to overtake. Coming off of the gas eliminates it completely and coasting downhill in neutral is vibration free, ruling out a misbalanced wheel/tire.

     

    I also have the classic "clank" when going into D or R, but know gears can make this sound too.

     

    Sound like a u-joint or something else?

     

    Thanks...Dave
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    All I can say is my 99 Blazer, 4.3 Vortec, Automatic, 2wd, with 95,000 miles is the smoothest running vehicle that I have ever owned. It idles so smooth at 600 rpm, accelerates very smooth and cruises very smooth, it's almost like magic! I replaced the LBJ's and the Idler Arm about 2 months ago. Your vibration is very odd, especially that is runs smoothly on coasting. That eliminates the wheel, tire and drive shaft, because the drive shaft spins whenever the wheels turn. It seems that you only get the vibration when you apply throttle to the engine. This would indicate a power imbalance in the engine. First thing to do is a Power Balance Test (PBT) on the engine, where each spark plug is shorted out one at a time, under various amounts of engine load. An easy way to do this is to straighten out a paper clip, then bend it into a U shape, then with engine off, the insert one under each spark plug wire connector at each plug. Start engine and let idle, and using a wire that has one end clamped to the chasis ground, touch each spark plug paper clip wire with the grounded wire, noting the engine response for each one. Repeat test under load by having an assistant in the car, block wheels, apply parking brake, hold footbrake firmly, place transmission in drive, increase engine rpm to 1500 rpm. A good cylinder will create a noticable "miss" when that cylinders spark plug is shorted out. If you short out a spark plug and it makes little or no difference, then that cylinder is making little or no power. A weak cylinder can be caused by many things, bad spark plug, bad spark plug wire, bad distributor cap, ignition problem, bad or plugged fuel injectors, vacuum leaks, Valve or lifer problems, leaking valve guides and seals, burnt valves, cracked head, bad head gasket, Bad piston rings, or bad piston. Does the vehicle emit any unusual smoke from the exhaust or crankcase? If you locate any weak cylinders, pull the spark plug and take a reading on it by noting the color of the center insulator, condition of electrodes, overall appearance and check the gap. Replace bad or fouled spark plugs and LOOK FOR THE CAUSE OF PLUG FOULING. Do a cylinder compression pressure test, with all plugs out, ignition disabled, throttle blocked open. A very good engine will have all maximum cylinder pressures within 10% of each other. The minumum acceptable variation between cylinders is 20%. Cylinders that are too low must be investigated. Squirt some motor oil into the problem cylinders and repeat test. If pressure comes up noticablly, the problem is most likely in the piston rings, if not, the problem is most likely in the head, valves or head gasket.

    Good Luck with this one. Let us know what you find.

    E.D.
  • dkfenndkfenn Member Posts: 2
    Hmmm, never thought of a cylinder being being the culprit, especially since the engine seems to be in such good condition.

     

    Despite my good words, I initially thought it might be the engine/engine mounts, but there's no vibration at all when I push the RPMs in Park. Having said this, and realizing I'm not a mechanical engineer, would the engine produce vibrations under load while producing none at similar RPMs at idle?

     

    Guess it might not be as simple as the universal joints after all. :)
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    First, inspect the trans mount and all rear axle housing mounting bushings to make sure there isn't a driveline angle problem. If ok, remove the prop shaft after using a centre punch to index it to the pinion yoke, then check for any looseness or bind in the u-joints. They can't be checked properly with the prop shaft in the vehicle.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    The reason I suspected the vibrations are from the engine are because you stated that there is no vibration while coasting. It would not hurt to inspect the drivetrain closely as bad engine or transmission mounts could send vibrations and LFN into the cabin. The rubber could be "sagging" and allow metal to metal contact when the motor/transmission torques during accelleration.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    There doesn't have to be a metal to metal contact, and that's usually not what causes the vibration. Single cardan u-joints cause output velocity changes, twice per revolution of the shaft, in the amount of +/- 1% per 1* of joint operating angle. If the front and rear joint angles don't match, velocity changes caused by the front joint won't be cancelled by the rear joint. Also, if this Blazer has the 2 piece rear driveline with double cardan u-joints, wear in the centering ball and socket at the connecting yoke can be the cause of vibration as it will allow unequal input and output joint angles. These vibrations are typically more pronounced under torque load.
  • scottlscottl Member Posts: 109
    I am looking at a 2000 Jimmy SLE 4-door. Was a locking rear differential an option? Are there any external indications on the diff cover? The owner doesn't know what I'm talking about.
  • sanpedrodavesanpedrodave Member Posts: 1
    If your good with a wrench go to a pick your part junk yard and pull one. If not have a non-dealer look at it and have them pull the brake error lite code and trouble shoot from there. How's the brake fluid looking. dirty fluid can cause problems in your valves and sensors.
  • cliffwilsoncliffwilson Member Posts: 25
    Indeed, a positraction, limited slip differential is an option on the 2000 model. The quickest way to identify its installation on the vehicle you are examining is to check the parts ID label pasted on the inside of the glove compartment door. It contains the RPO (regular production option) codes for the VIN number on the upper left hand corner of the label. The RPO code for a limited slip differential is G80. If that code is printed on the label, the vehicle has positraction.
  • pieps4157pieps4157 Member Posts: 1
    Today I came out of work and my 1998 GMC Jimmy wont come out of park!!!!I tried everything.......So is it a tranny problem or like a brake sensor problem?what do i do??
  • rzepa1rzepa1 Member Posts: 55
    My 99 4X4 is loosing coolant slowly, I can't find the source of the leak. Not sure if this is internal (engine block) or external leak as I don't see spots on the floor where I usually park. Last week I added die to the coolant. Today I inspected the entire engine block with ultra violet light searching for the leaks. Still nothing.

    I searched this forum and seems as there is some form of gelling occuring. I don't see this in my coolant tank as well as I have no problem with heat.

    One thing I noticed after driving for a while, and coming to the stop, I think I smell coolant. It seems as it is a slow leak on the outside on the engine block which is burning off. I hoped that die would help me find it but this was not the case.

    Any ideas ? Thanks
  • wnawna Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    2000 blazer here. I have a new twist on the wiper problem. My problem is that the washers / misters don't always work. Press the lever on the stalk and it is hit or miss (mostly miss). No fluid comes out and the wipers don't cycle on. Sometimes if I hold the lever down for a while (minute or longer) they suddenly spring to life and work. Could this be the familiar circuit board problem or is it more likely a short in the stalk itself? I'm thinking it might be the circuit board because I've noticed that the problem is worse if the truck is warm (any bad solder joints could have expanded causing failure) and recently I've noticed that if I put the wipers in intermittant and then try the washers while they are cycled on I can get them to work. Thanks in advance for any help or advice. Oh, and the battery light came on this morning and the guage indicates it is only charging around 10 volts... I've had most of the other problems listed on here. Why not the alternator too. Maybe it is just the belt tensioner.
  • crazedcommutercrazedcommuter Member Posts: 281
    Fellow blazer owners, can I get some of your expertise?
    My 1995 4x4 blazer shows that the front transfer case is engaged even after I shift out of 4x4 mode. It is a manual engage 4x4 system, and the light is on the diagram in front of the transfer case lever. My wife was teaching our 16 yr. old son how to drive in the snow with the blazer last week and put it into 4 wheel mode for a while. They cycled from 4 high to 4 low. She then shifted out of 4x4 into 2 high and the light is still on. I took it for a test drive to see if it is still locked and it is not. I then went through 4 high to 4 low and back to 2 hi and had no problem. I turned the car on and off several times but it's still on. Is the light staying on a cause for concern or damaging to the vehicle?
    Thanks.
  • puma77puma77 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 chevy blazer extreme with 22,000 miles on it. I just bought it a few weeks ago from a dealer. I had a viper remote start put in it. After a while the remote start wasn't working b/c the engine was taking longer to crank to actually start so i assumed it was the starter. Last nite the same thing occured but when I put the truck in gear it stalls out on me and i notice that my clock resets to 12:00 telling me maybe its a short or something or a problem with the ignition system along with the starter. If someone can help me i would really appreciate it!
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Connect a voltmeter across the battery to check your voltage with engine off and with engine running. Be sure that the alternator is charging at about 14 volts or better with acessories off, 13 volts or better with all accessories on. It should not drop below 9 1/2 volts when cranking the engine. Check all connections to be sure they are clean and tight. Check the battery with a good LOAD TESTER, an auto store can do this for you.
    Good Luck,
    E.D.
  • issaissa Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 1999 Blazer LT on friday. I have noticed that when I open the door the lights do not come on. I have checked the manual and everything is set correctly. Also my security light doesn't go off after locking the truck for 20 minutes. Last night and today the alarm has gone off for no reason. Has anyone had this problem, if so HELP!!
  • tommctommc Member Posts: 66
    First guess would be a failing ignition switch. Could be some glitch in the remote start system wiring? Lots of the actual ignition switches seem to be failing though.
  • issaissa Member Posts: 2
    I fixed it yesterday right after placing this message. The problem was the interior dome lights had to reset and that was causing problems with the security system. Thank you for trying to help me!
  • hopenprayhopenpray Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem about a year ago. I had to replace my intake manifold gaskets. It seems it is a common theme on the 1999 blazer. Good luck.
  • willpwillp Member Posts: 1
    My Jimmy has no electrical power at all. I parked it and left it over night and tried to start it in the morning--it was dead. and the interior lights were not coming on. Figuring it was a dead battery I tried a boost and still nothing and the interiors light or nothing else was coming on when the boost vehicle was connected. I then checked for blown fuses and they were all ok. I quickly touched the ends of the jumper cables together while the were connected to the battery post and there was a electrical snap when doing that. It may be noted that for a short brief time the horn was sounding about 2 hours after having shut off the vehicle after it's last run. I had tried all positions of the gear shift-(It's an automatic)and still no electrical power.
    Has anyone had any similar problems to this?
  • bartholrbartholr Member Posts: 1
    I am hearing/feeling a humming/vibrating noise from the front of my 98 GMC jimmy it sounds like the muffler is leaking,i had it checked but there are holes i was wondering if the gasket could be leaking. this only happens when im driving. and get louder when the truck down shift sounds like an after market muffler,it's in the flooring not the steering. i don't think it's the tranny because it is shifting fine,and the trucK has power.

    please help if you can any advice is welcome
  • rankinrankin Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 4wd Jimmy and need to put in new upper control arm bushings. Can I do it on the vehicle, or do I need to take the arm clear off to press in the new bushings.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    They come off first:

    4WD Vehicles

    Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands.
    Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
    Remove the cotter pin from the ball joint, then loosen the retaining nut.
    After separating the steering knuckle from the upper ball joint, be sure to support the steering knuckle/hub assembly to prevent damaging the brake hose.
    Position a suitable ball joint separator tool such as J-36607 or equivalent, then carefully loosen the joint in the steering knuckle. Disengage the tool and the retaining nut, then remove the joint from the knuckle.

    The 4WD vehicles covered by this information do not use shims to adjust the front wheel alignment. Instead, the upper control arm bolts are equipped with cams, which are rotated to achieve caster and camber adjustments. In order to preserve adjustment and ease installation, matchmark the cams to the control arm before removal. If the control arm is being replaced, transfer the alignment marks to the new component before installation.

    Unfasten the front and rear nuts retaining the control arm retaining bolts to the frame, then remove the outer cams from the bolts.
    Remove the bolts and inner cams, then remove the control arm from the vehicle.
    If necessary, remove the retaining nut and the bumper from the control arm.
    If the bushings are being replaced, use a suitable bushing service set to remove the bushings from the arm.

    To install:

    If removed, use the bushing service set to drive the new bushings into the control arm.
    If removed, install the bumper and retaining nut to the control arm. Tighten the bumper retaining nut to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
    Position the control arm to the vehicle, then install the retaining bolts (from the inside of the frame brackets facing outward) and the inner cams. The inner cams must be positioned on the bolts before they are inserted through the control arm and frame brackets.
    Position the outer cams over the retaining bolts, then install the nuts to the ends of the bolts at the front and rear of the control arm.
    Align the cams to the reference marks made earlier, then tighten the end nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm) on 1994 models. On 1995-99 models tighten the nuts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
    Remove the support from the steering knuckle, then install the ball joint to the knuckle. Make sure the joint is seated, then install the stud nut and tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm) on 1994 models and 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm) on 1995-99 models. Install a new cotter pin.
    When installing the cotter pin, never loosen the castle nut to expose the cotter pin hole, but DO NOT tighten more than an additional 1/6 turn.
    Install the tire and wheel assembly.
    Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
    Check and adjust the front end alignment, as necessary.
  • rich25rich25 Member Posts: 6
    I am hearing a humming sound on my 1997 jimmy GMC and it seems that the sound is coming from under the vehicle, but i'm not quite sure if it is from the engine because you can hear it loudly when you listen to the under the vehicle near the rear tires. The sound happens all the time when the engine is on/idling or the car is running.

    Has anyone have a problem like this, can someone give me an idea what causes the problem. I don't have problem with the tranny or pull/power of the vehicle.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Remove the gas cap and listen in. If it's louder, it's the fuel pump. Don't leave it running too long with the cap off, might set an EVAP code.
  • rich25rich25 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the info alcan but I still got the humming sound. I wasn't able to say earlier that the humming sound only happens during the hot environment, because when i go to work in the morning with about 40degF outside temperature the humming sound is not there. But during noon when we have about 65degF outside temperature that's the time I can hear the humming sound and it's really annoying.
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