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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • weekieweekie Member Posts: 1
    The service 4WD service light on my 2000 Jimmy comes on intermittently. I took it to a transmission place and they can't find anything wrong with it. They are not getting any error codes. I'm down in Florida now and will be returning home to NJ in about 6 weeks and am concerned about the transmission on the long ride home. Anyone else have this problem and know how to deal with it?
  • cliffwilsoncliffwilson Member Posts: 25
    I recommend you have your present battery throughly checked for static voltage and voltage under load. While touching the positive and negative jumper cables together is ill advised, it should have resulted in more than a "snap". It would have been a more memorable event with a fully charged battery. If your battery is OK, cable connections should be checked, cleaned, and torqued. Although you examined your obvious fuses, there is a battery fuse (175 amp)located under the battery. It is bolted to the radiator support panel (the battery must be removed to access it). All voltage to your underhood fuse box and dash fuse box goes through the battery fuse. The connections at the battery fuse should be clean and snug. The blowing horn symptom is an uncertain one. However, low battery voltage to the computer (Powertrain Control Module)can result in random toots and rings.
  • mtreesemtreese Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Blazer, recently when driving, when I push the door lock button- it locks all doors except driver doorlock- yet if the key is out of ignition it will lock all. Also, my dome light (when opening doors) wont go on, unless I manually do it. When I turn the car off, the radio and windows would still work for about 30 seconds or until I opened the door- they no longer work when the key is removed. Any ideas? I did check the fuses, they are fine. Please help!
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    First guess would be a defective left front door ajar switch or a broken wire in the conduit between the body and left front door.
  • sierrablazersierrablazer Member Posts: 1
    My 96 Blazer started making a chirping sound when the wheels were rolling, and the smell of brakes grew stronger every day for the past month. We took it to two mechanics who said nothing was wrong. Then, this week, I started getting all kinds of grinding sounds that shook the vehicle when I used the brakes, and they would stick when I started to move again.

    I took it in to the shop today, and they thought it was a dead caliper on a front rotor. So they replaced it, but it still had the same problems. They said it must be the ABS brakes and I would have to take it to a Chevy dealer. That's usually an expensive way to go so I would like to know if anyone out there has experience with this. I saw a similar post from 2003 in which they paid $1,500, but they didn't mention any alternatives. Thanks.
  • lkaiserlkaiser Member Posts: 1
    S-10 Blazer, 4wd, 5 spd. I can't seem to get at the second one on the drivers side. Please help.
  • justind574justind574 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 2 door blazer. A few weeks ago my gas guage read that it had no gas and i had just filled up and for about a week it would bounce from completly full to empty. Now after 3 weeks it always just says low fuel and says its on empty. I've heard it could be a bad ground, blown fuses, or sensor, but im not sure. Also my front right wheel when I gradually turn left to merge a lain or whenever the wheel hardly goes to the left it makes a buzzing noise like the wheel is rubbing the wheel well is what it sounds like. Not to sure on that one either, but any help would be greatly appriciated, thanks.
  • mo2mo2 Member Posts: 1
    I have an issue with my 94 2WD Blazer in which the ABS light ignites, the speedometer stops working, and the truck will not switch gears unless I do so manually and yet will not go into OD at all. The computer diagnosis mentions a speed sensor, which I have replaced to no avail. I have noticed, at times, if I hit a bump at the correct speed, the ABS light remains ignited, my speedometer will come to life and I can put it into OD with the tranny switching perfectly. That is until I hit another bump. Hence, I have come to the conclusion, this has to be a sensor on the wheel/axle itself. Unfortunately, although I am familiar with the mechanics of a vehicle, I've no knowledge of an ABS system. Reading your post may have shed some light onto my situation. 'The left side abs sensor gave out $60 from dealer only.'
    Would you be so kind to tell me more of this ABS sensor and maybe where I can find more info on the installation of such..?

    Thanx plenty, in advanced.
  • temokutemoku Member Posts: 1
    I've got a strange problem. Everything works fine on my 96 chevy blazer except when I put it in 4WD white smoke comes out the tail pipe. I've heard it has something to do with the vacuum controls and leaking transfer case fluid but i don't know too much about the transfer case. I recently checked the transfer case and it was completely full with fluid far above the inspection hole, any advice?
  • boatlantaboatlanta Member Posts: 7
    back ground: purchased 113k,mild rough low idle,got worst after every oil change- then 200-300 miles got better so let sleeping dogs sleep.About 145k, doing about 60mph and sudden engine skipping and sputtering and service engine light comes on- but before I can get off freeway the light goes out and engine returns to normal-only the low idle is rougher, nothing open to check the codes-later that night car is stolen,good news got the car back 3 weeks later with 2500 miles added(interior wrecked). while away the battery was replaced,knee deep in mud(its 2wd drive and they go mud bogging). running like a bad skip, no codes, so I figure why not a tune-up and let them tell me whats wrong-but I took it for a quick oil change on the way(replaced the battery with a new bigger one), and have the fuel filter replaced as well.90% of the skip is gone(cool),replace the PCV valve an another 5% is gone. So I guessed the tune-up should knock out the rest,as I get off the freeway-the car stalls,cranks back up no problem except it stalls on low idle repeatily. Tune-up shop can't get to it til next day,while waiting was talking with techie and mention the oil pressure gauge dropping to about 25 before stalling out, and he mentions to light of oil being used and engine will stall to protect the engine from damage. I go home and change the oil to 2 quarts 30/ 2 quarts 40,leave the oil filter with 1/2 quart. Bam its running at the low idle rough again,no stalling(oil pressure at 45 to 40 low idle). But the next day after the engine warms up (20 mins) the stall is back,only when hot..Take it for tune up and tech calls me back,no tune up needed,it had fresh platinum plugs and no carbon.suggest fuel injection service OK done..runs good til engine warms up and stalls sitting still(its worst). Luckily Chevy Dealership 2 blocks away,explain all this in detail to service writer(low idle is at about 550rpm-stalls at 500) I mention this to him and ask if the idle can be increased "No.controlled by computer" (later found the adjustment screw on throttle body,myself-but haven't adjusted it yet).Next day tech calls and said it needs a fuel pump,ok how much..$956.00 installed,jumped out of my skin.."how do you know it needs one", I tapped on the bottom of the gas tank and it changed hums."Is there anyway to check the pump"..no its in the tank,have to remove it to check it.Paid the $80 fee(decided to buy a book and check the procedure to replace it myself,guess what has a procedure to check the pressure in-line with factory specs)..but guess what its reached the 200-300 mile mark and the stall is gone, and light rough idle only is back. It's been 2500 miles and the oil change is coming soon...I have researched several things and they include EGR needs to be cleaned/replaced? Idle Control Valve needs to be replaced? The computer needs to be replaced(changed the battery 2 times and it has become un-programmed(it has learned it self but was not reset with VIN#)? The oil sending switch is bad(or the oil pump is bad) and causing the engine to stall?,Distributor shaft is warped?..Now I will be happy to entertain some real advice, from ya'll..you have the facts,let me know what you think..By the way,with the Blazer having so many problems,why has there been no recalls (deep pockets in DC?)???

    p.s. still no codes, and the check engine light does not come on every time, when the the ignition switch is turned on-before cranking. Low idle is at 600rpms,sometimes a little lower.
  • crewsecrewse Member Posts: 1
    1999 Blazer 4x4 4dr. I am having the same problem. My gas gage is appears to be accurate, until about 1/3 tank left, then it jumps around from LOW FUEL light to FULL!!!!

    My initial thought was that if I get a fuel system service (new pump, filter, cleaning,etc) that maybe it would help, but I haven't donethat. I'm interested to know what might be causing this and how to fix it.

    Thanks!
  • alanpsalanps Member Posts: 1
    I have exactly the same issue on my Jimmy - did you get this resolved. Would be grateful for any advice!
    Thanks
    Alan
  • maxdzynmaxdzyn Member Posts: 1
    It's a bear. I went to Sears and bought a set of box end ratchets with a swivel (about $60). Will probably cost you the same to get a mechanic to change just the one plug..but check it out. Wrenches got the job done...used 3/4" that fit over the drive on the spark plug socket..barely. Had only enough room to ratchet one or two clicks at a time because of steering dampener/heatshields around manifold. Had to go through splash cover in wheel well. Good luck
  • rich25rich25 Member Posts: 6
    It seem that the fuel pump of my Jimmy 1997 is humming and I'm wondering if it needs replacement as soon as possible because at this time it is still out of budget for me and I'm planning to take a long drive about 500 miles within this month. What are the possible issues I may encounter when the fuel pump is humming?

    I will greatly appreciate any advice... Thanks...
  • boatlantaboatlanta Member Posts: 7
    There are test you can do to determine if pump is ok, according to the Haynes Repair Manual #24071..it includes a in-line pressure check, and vacumn check..if you check my story,mine hums to 2 tunes(according to dealer tech),thats been 2500 miles so far..if worried about the trip, why not rent a car,beats the cost of pump or tow bill back. Option 2:I found a new pump(AC DELCO) that will fit mine on eBay for $165 plus shipping, also found a junkyard that will replace it for $100 (NOTE: R&R men for junkyards get paid a salary regardless of amount of work done- so owners will deal on repair work to keep the workers working and get their money's worth out of them, small yards work best with this idea), but I have yet to replace mine,because car doesn't mis-perform at other speeds beside low idle..in fact it is a great running car at any other speed, so my 99 Blazer can sing as longs as it wants too,but I will keep it local til someone helps with idea on the low idle problem..of course I drive 100-300 miles daily in my Blazer.
  • rich25rich25 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the advice man, I really appreciate. You gave me a good idea where to find a cheaper parts because the parts at gmc are pricey. Hope that humming won't cause me trouble at all because the drive of my jimmy is not affected at all, it still runs great without any problem. I believe in the capability of my truck and I love this vehicle although there are lots of people out there that encounters problems with their jimmy/blazer. Good Luck...
  • skyhawkdrvrskyhawkdrvr Member Posts: 1
    My problem sounds similar to this. My 2001 4wd Blazer with 57k miles, slight humming noise driving straight done the road. If I make a slight curve or lane change to the right it turns into a louder grinding noise and I can feel a vibration in the foot well. I thought and the mechanic seems to agree that this sounds like the wheel bearing. Local shop wants $558 to replace both front bearings. Dealer wants $800 for both. The dealer charges $338 for each bearing assembly and the local parts store only wanted $183.00 The cost is that the bearing comes in the hub assembly and also includes the ABS sensor.

    I have only had this car for 6 months and so far the problems are adding up rapidly.

    First Week - Coolant Temp Sensor $87.00 @Dealer.

    Speedometer stops working after driving for an hour. Dealer estimates over $300 to chase down the problem in the instrument cluster.

    Windshield broke after 2 months. $330 @ Dealer $179 at auto glass shop.

    Exterior body trim is now falling off as well.

    Now the wheel bearings.
  • mobiusdiesilmobiusdiesil Member Posts: 2
    Before you do anything you may want to drop your skid plate to the ground and check for coolant on top of it... only six bolts hold it in place.

    If you smell coolant then it must be hitting the exhaust somehow...

    which indicates to me that you should be looking a little closer at your water pump.

    Ive replaced several before and usually the reason for replacing them was a customer complaint of losing coolant slowly.

    hope I could help.
    MobiusDiesil
  • mobiusdiesilmobiusdiesil Member Posts: 2
    Have you tried going throgh the wheel well with your wrench? maybe an extension for it?

    #2 plug isn't that hard to get at through the wheel well.
  • redneckgurl_tnredneckgurl_tn Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 4wd blazer and it has 216,000 miles. And I love it. It has no power when you accelerate. If you barely push the gas, it will slowly pick up speed but if you press it hard or to the floor it acts like it tries to change gears and accelerate. It just don't. And the service engine light comes on for a while then it will just go off. We had the codes checked and they said it was an O2 sensor. So we put one on it and that did not fix it. I was told it could be the spark plugs. The ones in it is Bosch and they look new. But I was also told they were junk even when they were new. I don't want to go if you are on the slightest incline. Does anyone know what could be wrong with it? I need help.
  • bigpuddinbigpuddin Member Posts: 1
    This tranmission was great until 100k mi. Had it rebuilt for friggin 1600 dollars, and still having problems. Right around 45-55 mph it keeps switching between two gears. Also sounds like the heating fan is on when nothing is on. Pisses me off. Anyone heard of any of these problems?
  • fastashellfastashell Member Posts: 4
    you may have only recently noticed this issue, but I believe that your vehicle has an anti-lockout feature which will not allow you to lock your truck with the key in the ignition,. In other words, you can't lock your keys inside. The windows and radio will work after turning the vehicle up so you can roll up the windows if you forget to before turning it off, or to listen to the radio to, lets just say, wait for you to get your things together and ready to get out of the vehicle(just another luxury you didn't know you had)
  • fastashellfastashell Member Posts: 4
    you are absolutly right, there are usually two solder joints that break or form "islands" resoldering is the best fix
  • fastashellfastashell Member Posts: 4
    have your idler arm checked for excess wear, and while there have them check the pittman arm too!
  • fastashellfastashell Member Posts: 4
    I really can't speak for resale value, but in a lot of cases, that engine in your honda/Isuzu was most likely a GM product. I have a 1994 Jimmy 4WD and it has 220,000 miles. Your best bet is find a mechanic you trust, and do you routine maintainace
  • rob58rob58 Member Posts: 1
    Hi

    I have a 99 Blazer LT 2 door that has the same gas gauge problem as everyone else seems to be having.

    In addition, recently the signal light relay, which is located somewhere behind the glove box, continues flashing almost all the time. The signal lights work as they should, the four way flashers work as they should, but the signal relay continues to flash even though no lights are operating when it is in the middle (off) position. It stops when you hit the brakes, but starts again when the brakes (and brake lights) come go off. The relay does not run all the time, but it is getting to be almost constant.

    The ticking noise of the relay is starting to drive me nuts. Does anyone have any idea what may be the problem?

    Thanks
  • boatlantaboatlanta Member Posts: 7
    I had the same problem with an older chevy wagon, and it drove me nuts, until an older mechanic heard my complaints and told me to check the catalytic converter, I had it changed and it drove like new. I still go to this older mechanic for advice, if he gives me an answer "I get it done", and if he doesn't know he will say so, real rare for a mechanic. I've been told that a clogged converter has a smell like rotten eggs, and can be detected by standing next to the side it is on,while it is running, but the smell test didn't work for mine.
  • boatlantaboatlanta Member Posts: 7
    I would like to know what ever happen to your problem? I've been told the computer will learn itself, I replaced my battery 2 times and was having problems,just wondering if your problem went away on its own,or if you had to reprogram computer with VIN#?
  • yevyyevy Member Posts: 2
    I have a very similar problem, except that my gauge always shows on the full side. I've learned to monitor my trip odometer and when i get to about 300 miles ater a fill-up sometimes the needle will jump to the empty side and the low fuel light will come on. Then it will jump back to full.

    Let me know if you get any replys about this problem.
  • atlasanatlasan Member Posts: 3
    You'd swear the battery is rattling. No, battery is secure. What makes that God-awful rattle/clunking noise there on even slightly rough road?
  • txmwithablazertxmwithablazer Member Posts: 1
    Hey Rob58...I know exactly what you mean! That ticking noise makes me want to pull my hair out! I do not know what could be causing it...I took it to a mechanic & he checked the fuses in or behind the glove compartment & they were all good...also I hear a sizzling sound coming from the glove compartment too. If you find anything out, please let me know...thanks.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    If it has torsion bar front suspension look for a broken rear torsion bar mount.
  • 97blazer97blazer Member Posts: 3
    Your brake booster is bad. I am going through the same ordeal now.
  • 97blazer97blazer Member Posts: 3
    I am attempting to replace the brake booster in my 97 Blazer. The booster is ready to come out, however there is a small clip that holds the booster piston to the brake pedal assembly and I am having the hardest time getting that clip to come off. What do I do....PLEASE HELP!!!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Try the Stop here! Let's talk about brakes discussion too.

    Steve, Host
  • riled_upriled_up Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Jimmy with 126K on it and I had the same problem after getting my CPI module replaced. You need a new catalytic converter. Yours is clogged and its screwing up the computer that controls the gas and the shifting. I got a new one at meineke for about $300 and the car has a new life.
  • jaymoorejaymoore Member Posts: 1
    Ok. Thanks for any help you can give.
    I have an 89 Jimmy s-15 4x4 (the small one) with the 4.3
    Well, it's been acting up for the past few months. Since we moved it from Colorado to Oregon. Last week it started to make a knocking noise and it stalled as I'd slow down to stop.
    I had just changed the oil and oil filter a couple of weeks before (I had waited to do that for longer then I should have) and when I started it up in the mornings there was a fair amount of white smoke from the exhaust pipe. The milage had been about 15 milespergallon and now has been more like 10 or 11. It has had a slow oil leak for a while but I've always kept it topped off (it leaks from a hose near the oil filter which was moved up near the hood) and I haven't seen any coolent leaked onto the ground but I've had to add coolant a bunch of times in the past two months.
    It also had one of those digital displays and only the speedometer and odometer readings work. So I don't know if it's been over heating. Last year I replaced the muffler and the catalitic converter but now it seems like it's getting hot under the floor in the back. Also the air filters haven't been lasting very long. They've gotten dirty real fast and the last one looked a bit warped. The week before the knocking noise started I needed to use starter fluid to get it going a dozen times.

    I stopped driving it because my wife's uncle says it sounds like a rod. I guess that means something. He say's it needs another engine. But hell, i's only got about 60,000 on the rebuilt engine.

    So I wanted to know if those sounds that are like a messed up rod (the knocking) along with the other things I describe could be something else.

    I love that damn truck. It was the first vehicle I ever bought (5 years ago) and It's Family to me. Hell, if it is the engine that needs replacing then what if I could pull and rebuild it myself.
    I've never done it before but like my first girlfriend told me, everyone has a first time. Are there books on taking your old beat up truck and making it like it was when it was new?

    Thanks again and any help would be greatly welcomed.
    Jay Moore
    justgotdarker@gmail.com
  • medwards46medwards46 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 S10 Blazer.Just rebuilt the motor and things were great. then the fuel pump went, replaced that. The spider went, replaced that. Next it was the coil and the ICM. The car will start up when its cold run for about 5min. and stop. Cant get it to start untill cold. Some one said it may be the ECM, but why would it start at all then? This is driving me nuts and broke.
    Anyone got any ideas?
    Thanks
    Mike Edwards
    medwards46
    medwards46@msn.com
  • atlasanatlasan Member Posts: 3
    you have screws loose
  • twofingerstwofingers Member Posts: 1
    1989 blazer, 6 cyl, automatic. It sat all winter and had to jump it to get it going. The headlights and everythings worked, just not enough juice to rotate engine. Jumped it and got it started. Let it run for 10 minutes or so and then went to drive it down the road. When i hit the headlights on, engine died. Now I have limited electrical and engine will not start. Put new battery in it and same thing. Wipers, instrument panel, directionals work but little else. No headlights, no radio, nothing. I am lost when it comes to electrical things. I checked the fuse panel and nothing was blown. Where should I start checking? Solenoid blown? Circuit breaker? fuseable link?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    It is unwise to include your email address in a public posting - the spammers love it.

    tidester, host
  • ashleyrae84ashleyrae84 Member Posts: 3
    I just purchased a 95' Chevy Blazer from e-bay in October and it recently started to stall. I had a diagnostic test done and well, let me make a long story short. Thus far I've replaced the catylitic converter, 2 oxygen sensors, fuel pump, sending unit, and relay, and something that has to do with the fuel pressure(?) and low and behold the damn thing still stalls. It'll stall a few times then not want to start back up for a while. I'm such a girl and I'm a little car illiterate and not to mention this car is a money pit, So could someone, anyone, please help me or give me advice. And yes, it has gas it in, lol. Thanks so much.
  • tawnyctawnyc Member Posts: 1
    Hi! I have a 1997 jimmy and have had it since 1999 so I am very familiar with it. Recently it has started doing something weird with the headlights when they are turned on. They flash on and off, and inside the vehicle there is a clicking noise and the little green headlight icon on the dashboard flashes on and off. Has anyone heard of/had this problem?? I'm so hoping it's not an electrical issue and something much simpler like a fuse! Any suggestions would be much appreciated! Thanks
  • maurerush2112maurerush2112 Member Posts: 9
    dont know which engine you have. I have 94 blazer with 4.3 W engine. If your not sure which you have check 8th digit on vin code. the W motor has the fuel line entering the intake from the back of the block. at that point it changes to a plastic fuel line to the "spider" inside engine. I had similar problem, mine would basically flood out when it warmed up. let it sit for awhile and it would run good again for awhile. That plastic fuel line has tendency to crack, which dumps raw fuel into intake and "overloads" engine with fuel, thus making it run like CRAP. hope this helps
  • mrebouletmreboulet Member Posts: 1
    My GMC jimmy is making a similar noise. It seems to be coming from the right front, just under the dash. Been to 3 mechanics, all can hear it but
    no one can find/fix it. One mechanic went so far as to suggest I had some play in my passenger right door, so since he yanked on it it will not stop making a popping sound going over every bump. Any suggestions.
  • robert2078robert2078 Member Posts: 2
    I also have a 2001 GMC Jimmy that I bought "GM Certified" in December of 2003. From the beginning the gas mileage has been a disappointment. I was getting about 175 miles out of a full tank if I let it get close to an eighth of a tank before I fill up again. I haven’t put it in the shop yet to have the mileage problem checked. I’ve done some things myself to try and squeeze out more mileage. 1) I put a high performance air filter on it (K&N Air filter) to improve the airflow; it fits the factory air filter box. 2) I switched to using 100% synthetic oil (Mobil 1), to lessen the friction and extend the life of the engine. 3) Make sure the air pressure in the tires is correct. 4) Make sure the alignment is good.
    After all that, I’ve only increased the gas mileage to 215. I’m going to put it in the shop (Goodyear) and see if they can identify the problem. I just hope it wont cost me an arm and a leg. If someone else has replied to your post with a true fix for the problem, please let me know what it is. Thanks.
  • drdddrdd Member Posts: 2
    check the bolt that attaches the hood to the car ...
  • drdddrdd Member Posts: 2
    check the bolt that attaches the hood to the body ...
  • newmanfannewmanfan Member Posts: 1
    If you figure it out please let me know. I have a 2001 s-10 blazer. i bought it new from the dealer with 27 miles on in. it now has 64,00. i have a 2 body lift and 31x 10 tires. in the last few month my gas milegage has gone from good to super bad...i now get about 9.5 miles to the gallon. i have done a complete tune up. added fuel injection cleaner and had an induction cleaning done. nothing helps!! (yes i have checked to make sure i do not have a leak in my fuel tank!) also, i just put in a new water pump and thermostat(195 degree) and ever since, my heat will not get hot unless i am driving, it can sit in my driveway warming up for 20 min and my windsheild is still half frozen when i go to leave!! HELP!!!!!
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