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Removal Procedure
Caution: Before servicing any electrical component, the ignition key must be in the OFF or LOCK position and all electrical loads must be OFF, unless instructed otherwise in these procedures. If a tool or equipment could easily come in contact with a live exposed electrical terminal, also disconnect the negative battery cable. Failure to follow these precautions may cause personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components.
Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Remove the left instrument panel sound insulator.
Remove the knee bolster trim panel.
Remove the screws that retain the instrument panel accessory trim plate to the instrument panel.
Remove the instrument panel accessory trim plate by releasing the retaining clips.
Position the instrument panel accessory trim plate in order to remove the control switches.
- Remove the selectable 4WD switch (if equipped). Refer to S4WD Select Switch Replacement .
- Remove the inflatable restraint IP module switch. Refer to Inflatable Restraint Instrument Panel (I/P) Module Disable Switch Replacement in SIR.
- Remove the headlamp switch.
Remove the radio mounting screws.
Remove the radio.
Disconnect the electrical connector and the antenna lead.
i havent done a compresion test yet.
im going to do that tomorrow
I hope you have some ideas what this could be
Thanks, Dave
Don't ever use starting fluid in a gasoline engine!
Your problem very well could be a serious one. When using starting fluid in a gasoline engine the fluid ignites before the piston has reached the the power stroke... Therefore melting the piston head. The piston has rings around it which act like a seal for compression. If you melt the rings (which can be easy to do in a Jimmy) you will lose compression in that cylinder and that will cause your ECM to send a signal to dump more fuel into that cylinder which counter-acts the ignition timing.
Advancing the timing to a point where the fuel will NOT be ignited and pushed through the exhaust and burnt at the Catalitic converter.
White smoke... lots of it...
Get a compression test done before you decide to start pulling rods.
hope this information is useful to you.
Mobius
anything below 12.5 volts is bad...
A power drain from a battery is only caused by one thing... Your Truck.
Now what recharges your battery when it is running??? Alternator.
To check an alternator to see if it is generating power to supply your battery, you need an ammeter to check amps.
Or remove positive cable from battery while engine is running and test voltage at the cable end... (NOT RECOMMENDED!, DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!) but, if you do... lol voltage will increase rapidly if it is working ok, and if the alternator is dead the voltage will stay the same. Which is zero
Alternators are expensive brand new and usually new doesn't mean good...
I personally recommend buying a used one.
Yellow pages under automotive you can find wreckers that sell used parts for cheap.
Alternator usually 50$ for a Jimmy 6cyl.
A dead Jimmy can be caused by many different problems as most of us Jimmy owners have found out.
However... When a vehicle dies like that, the first thing you should check is your battery voltage guage.
Second... Check for a large animal or possibly a concrete block under your wheel that might be preventing your vehicle from moving.
Hope this information has been helpful
Mobius
Fuel injector cleaner acts in the same way as starting fluid.
it doesn't burn as fast though... It won't cause ring failure, but it does change the burn rate of the gasoline.
What happens is the octane has been increased. (a.k.a. burn rate) doesn't burn hotter... just slower... Yes, I said Slower. If this makes any sense at all that should tell you that your spark plugs have just been melted, because your ignition timing has changed. The gas being injected into your cylinders is burning before the power stroke.
replace your spark plugs and don't use that cleaner again. It does what the bottle says it will, but what it doesn't tell you is that it will also cause things not related to your fuel system to FAIL!
Did you say 195 degrees for your thermostat?
is that farenheit? or celcius?
If your talking Farenheit and havn't replaced anything like a radiator for a bigger one then your thermostat is set too high...
average thermostat opening temp is 160 degrees Farenheit for a 4.3 lt Jimmy cooling system.
125 degrees Celcius is Redlined.
hope this information has been helpful
Mobius
Synthetic oil is not good for older or high mileage engines that havn't been using synthetic oil before.
Why?...
Synthetic oil is made using additives...
additives like... penethanol-sulphate.
Which seals cracks.
Also includes different types of detergents. This stuff doesn't like conventional oil. It will make all your original oil seals in your engine LEAK. (eats away old oil)
This "crack" sealer can and in most cases will seal the wear spots in cam shafts and crank shafts.
Why this is bad?...
Bearing movement... The bearings have formed a comfortable seat where they are in your engine using conventional oil.
When a sealer is added the bearings can become compressed causing excessive wear (forced to make a new seat again)
At first noticable power loss... then... Snap! goes a rod... then... Booom! goes the intake...
The only problem is that Synthetic oil is great!
only in new and unabused engines.
If your engine has been running on conventional oil for up to 50,000mi... don't switch oils.
But, if you choose to anyway. Don't drive hard for atleast 5000mi. Sucks eh?
TO TRY AT HOME WITH A BEER!!!
Step#1 open hood...
Step#2 move body to driver side of engine...
Step#3 listen for a clicking sound...
Step#4 if you hear clicking, look for a shiny little valve on top of rocker cover...
Step#5 open beer and sip
Step#6 Phone mechanic
Step#7 ask mechanic what that valve is and what can happen if it fails?...
problem solved
hope this information was helpful.
Mobius
Thanks, Dave
Alternator failure.
Hope this information has been helpful
Mobius
An electrical shifting 4x4 is one of the most difficult things to diagnose even for the best transmission specialists.
One thing I can tell you is that your Transfercase control module is fine.
Where you should start looking is at the electrical trasfercase shift motor mounted on the side of the trasfercase itself...
The motor is similar to the starter motor for your engine, a solenoid on the motor. With a wiring harness that goes to the Transfercase control module. If the control module senses a break in the signal to the transfercase it will select the next gear that is working... in your case it is 4x4 hi.
Good thing the module isn't to blame eh? @ about 600$ u.s.
check for corroded wires on the wiring harness.
Now for your turn signal...
Replace the relay in your glove box.
you know... the one that is clicking when the signal is flashing?
not related to the 4x4 system.
hope this info has been useful.
Mobius
Is that the correct name for that part? I can't seem to find it by name in the alldata diagram.
Depending on the diagram you are referring to, in most cases, transfercase information is very limited. Like in a Haynes do-it-yourself guide book you won't see any schematics or motor details at all for the 4x4 system.
If you decide to lower your skid plate and check the transfercase yourself... !note! disconnect battery first. You don't want to deep fry that module and eat it for dinner.
First pull the oil dipstick... smell the oil to see if it smells like gasoline.
Why your doing this is to check for a fuel leak.
one more thing... Read message #1099.
another thing you can do is remove one of the spark plugs, (doesn't matter which one) and inspect it to see if it has gasoline on it. Why your doing this is to confirm ignition and fuel flow to the cylinder.
Your GM Dealer has probably diagnosed the problem with your shifting correctly.
Driving your Blazer at high speed (if you consider 70mph high speed) with a leaking valve can be hard on the clutches causing them to over-heat which will make them brittle like crackers. I don't recommend driving your Blazer that hard until you can get the part you need.
But what he or she didn't tell you is that you can easily find the valve body at a wreckers for 50$-100$.
Check one out in your local yellow pages listed under automotive.
Usual symptoms are harsh 1-2 shift after high speed driving, ok after key off until next time it's driven at higher speed. The most common cause is a worn torque converter clutch regulator valve bore in the valve body (controls apply of the lockup clutch in the converter). Sonnax has developed a kit which provides a less expensive and permanent fix. Any decent transmission shop will be aware of the problem and fix. Click here for more info:
http://www.transmissionspecialty.com/parts/parts/77754-Combo.htm
P.S. Don't waste your time with junkyard parts. They're likely to be in the same condition as what you're replacing.
Thank you again.
We bought this one used with 60,000 Kms and a extended warrenty(140,000kms) from the dealer. We noticed a pronounced driveline howl between 80 and 100 kph in 2wd that would disappear when 4W Hi was selected and returns in 2WD. Quite audible from the passenger seat and felt a vibration in the floor.
We managed to replicate the problem and the dealer began by changing the Hub Bearings that were bad. Low speed noise gone but not the Highway howl. They then said the ride height and alignment was out, but found to be okay. Next they ordered "microphones" to place around the driveline to pin point the source of the noise. They R&R'd the front diff and told me they changed an axle bearing and front axle that was scored. The result was quieter but still there.
Now at 105,000 Kms the howl is back same as before. This time the dealer has had it a week and said my tires needed rotating, but that did not fix it. They asked the GMPP rep to come test drive it but he/she was a no show. I got a phone call this morning from Quantrill Chev Olds in Port Hope and was told that they could not fix it and come get your truck.
I drove it home and it still howls.
any ideas?
If someone has this problem or knows what is the solution to this can you please give me an idea what is the cause of this trouble and the solution.
Thank you very much and I appreciate any information.
I drove this home in the 6 inches of snow we got on the 2nd of April. I was stuck in our level driveway. I put it in 4WH and could not get moving, noticed the front wheels were not even moving. I finally drove out in 2WD.
Today I raised the rear end off the ground untill both rear wheels cleared the ground. I put it in both 4WL and 4WH and carefully tried to drive forward with just the front wheels, nothing.
My conclusion is that the 4X4 is not working as the truck should have driven forward. Am I wrong? I can here the relay clicking in and the 4X4 selector lights up.
Any ideas or comments?
Get all you can out of that warranty.
They will eventually find the problem.
same problem you described. I have put 60,000kms on it with the noise. Tried new
tires, replaced the right front wheel bearing twice & was told recently by a driveline specialty shop that the problem was the thrust washers in between the right drive
shaft and differential. I haven't tried this as yet. I would also like anyone elses input.
with the car not starting...........because she lives away at college, I really need
(for her safety!) to find out what the problem is and fix it once and for all!
Most of the time, it seems that the car starts fine.
Then, sometimes, it won't start at all. Won't turn over.....I think she said it begins
to start and the just won't. The lights work, etc......so doesn't seem to be the
battery. To get it started, she waits a few minutes, or a few hours or a day or so.......goes out, tries it again, it seems fine!
Yes, she has gas! (I asked!) Someone told us they ONLY way to diagnose this is to have a mechanic look at it WHEN it won't start. If I knew when this was going to happen, it would be a lot easier!
ANY advice or ideas would be appreciated! THANKS THANKS THANKS! :mad:
Thanks,
1.- Stop
2.- Shift to Neutral
3.- Press 4XHi button
4.- etc, etc
that Sort of thing, or can I just press the button any time I please???
thanks for any help
Me
you have a vacume line off
start the truck and listen for a whistle
if you vin code has the "W" in it or its a 4.3 liter v6 with fuel coming in through throttle body not port injection the check for a vacume line off its connector right behind the throtle body in between the throtle body and the fire wall on the passenger sige of the truck
im sure its around the same area for the other engine
"Z" in the vin code or direct port injection
hope this helps it fixed my 4wd drive not engaging like it said it was
I just took it in and they said it was my multifunction switch that was screwed with regards the signal problem. Which was covered under my extended warranty.
The fuel gauge was fixed too. They just added some sort of cleaner to the tank which was about $15.00.
Hope that helps!
You might want to check for the correct fuel pressure, Vortec engines need at least 55psi to run, otherwise it wont start. If gas pressure does not meet the 55psi then you will probably need to replace the fuel pump. But before you get in to that, you might want to make sure you are getting a spark from the Spark plugs and a signal to the fuel injectors. (if there is no spark or signal to the fuel injector then the ignition starter is probably the problem).
Now getting back to the fuel system, if you have enough fuel pressure, spark and a signal to the injectors, you should check for clogged Fuel Injectors.
Please let us know how it went.
My 96 jimmy right front noise was teh computer beating the top of the coolant tank. I thought it was the battery, but I fixed it and it makes no more noise. see the last post that I made to correct it.