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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • yukenronyukenron Member Posts: 1
    First of all I have had those starting problems and finallly I found out it was the feul pump, the person that said you have to get checked by a mechanic when it wont start was absolutely correct.
    However, I am trying to figure out a problem that has only happened two or three times so far but today it was serious. While Im driving the rmp guage dropped and I couldnt get any accelleration. I think its a transmission problem, Im going to take to the shop tommorrow, but can anyone give me a heads up to what it is?
  • david18david18 Member Posts: 1
    95 blazer almost starts but then just turns over. I remove the air intake to the carburetor and pour in a little gas in and engine starts and sounds fine. I let engine heat up, stop engine and it starts fine. I go away and come back within an hour or so and it still starts fine. However, the next morning the same thing happens; it will not start. This condition started about 3 months ago by starting hard - since then it just got worse until now it does not start at all. Would appreciate any help.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Check fuel pressure.
  • jal012773jal012773 Member Posts: 63
    I have a 2001 Blazer LT 4 door and am getting ready to change out the factory tail light lenses for some new Eurotails. My owners' manual explains how to remove the lenses for lamp replacement, but one thing it doesn't mention is how to get around the hydraulic cylinders for the dropgate blocking the bottom screws for the lenses. Looking at it the solutions seems obvious, but assumption is the mother of all screw ups. Can anyone tell me the how to get around the cylinders? Any help would be appreciated.
  • avsroolavsrool Member Posts: 4
    WOW...flashbacks on this issue. Except it wasn't a jimmy, however, the same problem occured exactly with my Oldsmobile Achieva. Needless to say, it was the torque convertors in the transmission that caused that problem. Something to be suspicious of but that is only my explanation I can give you. :)
  • avsroolavsrool Member Posts: 4
    I find this very interesting. We just had a snow storm this past weekend here in Denver and upon engaging the Auto 4x4 (due to various road conditions) on my 2000 Chevy Blazer everything was cool. As I went to disengage the AUTO 4x4 it kept sending me to 4LO (not while driving thank God!) I couldn't get out of the 4LO or it kept shifting me back and forth to AUTO 4X4 to 4LO. My 2HI and 4HI switches wouldn't engage. It kept sending me to 4LO or AUTO4X4. In a last ditch effort, I removed the 4X4 fuse even to disconnect my battery to reset the computer (hopefully) and waited for a few seconds and was able to engage AUTO 4X4 so I can get to work on time. After my shift (of 5 hours), I started my Blazer and was able to engage 2HI where I wanted to be. Everything seems to be fine however, with the fear of a repeat of problems I left alone but my 4X4 Service light is illuminated. As an electrician, I'm thinking that it is more or less an electrical problem than mechanical problem. Does your vehicle do that as well, Blaze100? Anyone with this kind of experience please share the remedies for I hate to go out buy expensive parts that are not the answer to the problem. Thank you. :sick:
  • avsroolavsrool Member Posts: 4
    I just had my rear tires replaced...they need them. But do you think this would have any effect on my 4wd? Basically that is when I noticed the problem with my truck but what can one mess up by replacing tires alone other than jacking with the ABS module???
  • poolgodpoolgod Member Posts: 2
    IN THIS 1999 JIMMY 4.3 I HAVE CHANGED THE AIR PUMP AND VALVES
    I CAN'T FIND THE FUSE, THE LIGHT CAME BACK ON, DRIVING ME NUTS
    ANY HELP I WOULD APPRECIATE IT, EVEN THE GMC PLACE DIDN'T KNOW WHERE THE FUSE GOES THE CODE I GET IS P0410
    THANK YOU AUTO ZONE TAKES THE CODE OUT BUT COMES BACK ON IN THREE DAYS I HAVE TRIED DISCONNECTING THE POSITIVE CABLE BUT AGAIN COMES BACK ON
  • susanwsusanw Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 Blazer has a noise coming, intermitttantly, from the distributor cap/rotor area. The distributor cap and rotor have been replaced because if you pushed on that area when it was running, it would go away. Days will go by without hearing it, and then suddenly, it is like a ticking/clicking vibration noise. Blazer runs fine. Any suggestions? I've moved miles away from my home and I'm half afraid to take it to a dealer and don't know any mechanics I can trust ;-). I'm also automotive dysfunctional.
  • poolgodpoolgod Member Posts: 2
    I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM, I HAD A PRESSURE TESTER ON FOR ONE HOUR AND THEY HAD CHANGED THE INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET SO FAR SO GOOD THANK GOD FOR FRIENDS
    I WAS TOLD THEIR ALSO A SMALL HEATER HOSE BACK THERE SOMEWHERE BUT I NEVER SEEN ONE
  • 2001blazer2001blazer Member Posts: 1
    Had the same problem with my 2001 Blazer. They under warrany replaced
    my fuel sensor.
  • gwg1955gwg1955 Member Posts: 1
    Did you find the problem yet? I have just experienced the same thing
  • ktmfreak99ktmfreak99 Member Posts: 5
    help! I dont know what the deal is but i have changed the passenger side hub due to bad whell berings 3 times in the past 5 months. (96 jimmy) i cant figure it out. I am tourqing everthing down to the spec but after a couple thousand miles she starts humming again. At first i though that mabey some how the ball joints that were starting to get loose were causing it but i changed them all too. i am wondering if any one a has experianced this same problem or any one knows what might be causing it?
  • 01_blazer01_blazer Member Posts: 1
    hello! has anyone else had their blazer's ABS brakes "kick in" unexpectedly"?
    what I mean is when I'm turning a fairly tight corner while braking, the ABS kicks in for no reason. the ground is dry, etc, so I don't know what is going on.
    any help appreciated!
  • ammejenkammejenk Member Posts: 1
    I have an 88 s15 Jimmy, I had to replace the gas tank and fuel lines due to rust. When we tried trying the Jimmy again it would not start. There was so much pressure in the engine that when we put a little gas in the carburetor, and tried to start the truck the engine backfired and the carburetor caught fire. The Jimmy blew one valve cover off, blew out the other valve cover gasket and the rear main seal. Everything has been fixed except the rear main seal, it is just a little leak nothing major. My problem is that the engine idles rough and acts like it is going to die (it hasn't died yet) and when I drive it the engine is real rough also. The gas mileage is just horrible about 10 miles to the gallon. It did not run this way until all this happened. It ran like a dream. I don't k now what else to do to fix these problems, any suggestions would be really helpful. Thank You
  • salerno12salerno12 Member Posts: 1
    did you ever find the cause of this problem
    I have a 2000 zr2 and I have the same noise
    coming from the drivers side where my feet are and it is driving me crazy

    if you can help me our email me at salerno12@aol.com
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Two possibilities.

    First, Chev and GM trucks are prone to corrosion buildup under the wheel speed sensors, which pushes the sensors out and away from the trigger wheels in the hubs. It causes an increased air gap between the sensor and trigger wheel, and the system goes into self-test when the vehicle slows to about 5 m.p.h.The fix is to remove the sensors and clean off the corrosion under them.

    Second, if it only occurs under tight turns a front sensor harness could be misrouted, resulting in harness connector strain when turning.

    An ABS capable scan tool will show which sensor has a signal dropout when the ABS activates.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    if you can help me our email me at ***@***.***

    Please keep the conversation here so everyone benefits. To do otherwise defeats the purpose of a message board which is to exchange information, views and experiences.

    tidester, host
  • r31687r31687 Member Posts: 4
    95 blazer LS 4.3
    o.k first off the truck started acting funny it was running like a go-cart it didn't have any power when i hit the gas, then it wouldn't start, the mechanic said it was the injectors i had that changed brand new. then i changed the fuel pump, now its missing real bad, i was going to change the spark plugs tommorow, when i changed the injectors i bought the central injection unit is their something else i needed? when i changed the injectors the truck wouldn't start then i changed the fuel pump, now its putting but when u floor it it clears up. and when i was testing it after the pump was put on the catalytic converter was glowing red, now i dropped the converter and it still is putting. i need help please u can e-mail at r31687@yahoo.com
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    please u can e-mail at *******@*****.****

    Please read message #1164 - the one right before yours! :)

    tidester, host
  • cinabugcinabug Member Posts: 1
    Problem - After running for about 10 to 15 minutes, it stalls out and will not start again for approx. 1 hour. It's not overheating and motor is getting fuel and spark. My mechanic has had it in his shop for a week now, and is totally stumped and frustrated, so I thought I might get some help here.

    Things Mechanic Has Replaced So Far
    Fuel Pump and Fuel Filter
    Fuel Relay
    EGR Sensor
    Coil
    Spark Plugs and Wires
    Distributer Cap
    Rotors
    Ignition Module
    Computer
    Fuel Injection Spider
    Ran Cleaner thru Gas Tank, Oil, and Vacuum Lines

    My mechanic has also put it on his diagnostic computer, but nothing wrong shows up! Any help from anyone here would be greatly appreciated! I'm at a loss as to what to do, and my mechanic was voted the best in the area! I think my Jimmy is driving him to possibly change his field of work, or retire! Thanks in advance for any help or ideas!
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    I enjoy reading posts of long-time Blazer/Jimmy owners and am really amazed with awe with their intentions to keep their vehicles more than about 10 years - sometimes almost 20 years from their vehicles' production. :surprise: My Blazer is four and a half years old. I am not sure if I can keep it for such a long time. :)
  • slopoke502000slopoke502000 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1998 G .M.C. Jimmy, the keys where lost durring a move and I of course had to move the Jimmy so I pulled the ignition, now the truck will turn over but the security system will not stop blinking so the vehicle will not run beyond the initial start-up. Is there some way to disable the anti-theft system? do I have to pay like $200 bucks for a new igntion, this is a farm vehicle and I really dont need a ignition system, hell a toggle switch would be good enough for me. Can anyone out there help me? Reply SLOPOKE502000@yahoo.com, thanks.">
  • dblgr0069dblgr0069 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Chevy Blazer LT. There are 120k miles on it. I have had problems but nothing that has caused my Service engine Soon light to come on and blink. Is it possible that my catalytic converter could be causing this? Or an O2 sensor? Also I had my water pumped recently changed but I am still leaking anitfreeze. I have also noticed I am leaking oil too, had my oil changed and everything but I can still see the puddle in my garage. Any suggestions before I spend thousands to get everything fixed?
    Thanks
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Reply ******.com, thanks.">

    Please keep the discussion here so everyone benefits!

    tidester, host
  • laethynlaethyn Member Posts: 1
    First off, let me say that my Blazer starts smoothly. No problems whatsoever.

    I have a '90 S10 Blazer. What usually happens is that I start it, but as soon as I pop it into gear (any gear), it dies instantly the second I take my foot off the gas. At first, I started to believe that the fuel pump was dead, and wasn't pushing the gas through, but it starts fine, so that confuses me. My next thought was that there was an issue with the transmission, as it will, occasionally, pop out of gear.

    I would also like to mention that while I am not really that mechanically inclined, I learn quickly, and am able to think through most situations (ie, in rescent months, I've taught myself how to change fuel pumps, throttle cables, etc. etc.)

    Anyone have any thoughts that could help point me in the right direction?
  • lucky00lucky00 Member Posts: 1
    First of all is your truck a 4X4 , if so check the front drive shaft. When in 2 wheel drive is the drive shaft turning ?? If answer to all is YES , then I have the solution. Had this trouble with gas milage on a 98 s-10 blazer 4X4. It took $34 and some time on my part but once repaired ...... gas milage increased , I was getting about 160-180 MPG but now it is WELL over 240 !!!!!!
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I was getting about 160-180 MPG but now it is WELL over 240 !!!!!!

    Why haven't we heard this in the news??? ;)

    tidester, host
  • vinnyflexvinnyflex Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 blazer with the same problem. I changed the spider inj and EGR along with the map sensor. It helped. It started up 3 days after the work was done. He told me to take it on the highway and floor it. There might be some carbon still it the EGR port. I did that and so far so good. Let me know how you made out. Vinny

    Vinnyflex@aol.com
  • and21and21 Member Posts: 1
    I HOOKED UP AN AFTERMARKET HEADUNIT AND THEN PROCEDED TO THE DRIVER DOOR PANLE HOOKED UP NEW SPEAKER NOW WHEN DINGER WONT KICK OFF WHEN DRIVING ANY ANSWERS PLEASE HELP
  • r31687r31687 Member Posts: 4
    my blazer has a problem the ses blinks at me i just had the injectors changed i just replaced the spark plugs i just did the fuel pump, now the thing is running rough it runs but real rough and loud yes their is a leak in the exhaust but that wont make it run rough will it?
  • 1mobiusdiesil1mobiusdiesil Member Posts: 13
    On the throttle body, look for a valve on the side. Plastic with two small screws visible facing out. Remove valve, check for white powder inside threads of aluminum throttle body.

    Clean... w\air-intake cleaner. Install... don't use any thread sealer on installation!!
    if you really have to use sealant cause a thread is damaged? use pipe dope only...

    Idle control valve is the name of the part if the plastic is cracked.
    which is easy to crack if you tighten the srews too much... so be careful

    But... bad vacuum will cause shifting problems with your 4x4 and transmission.
    may want to find your vacuum solenoid under battery tray to be sure you havn't any leaks. take your time with it. Once it took me and two other mechanics 3 days to find a vacuum leak... can be tricky. Best way to find out is remove line a physically blow on the line. Tis way u can tell if the pressure drops without expensive tools and it does work.

    hope this information has been useful
    Mobius

    p.s. you must be mechanically inclined if you can change throttle cables...
    maybe you should change your career and be a mechanic? been working great for me...
  • shar3shar3 Member Posts: 2
    Julian,

    I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer and am having a problem similar to yours with the flasher staying on once i turn. After the turn the blinkers stop but the switch in the glove box keeps ticking. I picked up new relay for that and put in but did not fix. Still ticking after the turn - what did it take to correct yours ? And how much money did it cost you ?

    Chevy is telling me to replace the switch in the steering column now costing about 500.00 with labor - any ideas ? Sharon
  • shar3shar3 Member Posts: 2
    I am hoping someone has my problem and can tell me what or where to look. I have a 2000 Chevy 4x4 Blazer. Yesterday when turning left or right, after the turn the signal flasher on the dash turned off but the tick, tick, tick continued. I was told it must be my little black box (relay for signal) switch in the glove compartment. When to Chevy, got a new one installed it and still tick, tick, tick. When i hit the brakes the ticking stops and then when release breaks, the ticking starts again !!! Annoying or what ??? Without spending 500.00 more dollars at Chevy i'm hoping someone can confirm this problem.

    Thanks all, Sharon H. :crymad:
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    This is common to Blazers and my 2000 Blazer had one also. I had my multiple switch board in the steering column replaced. My dealer diagnosed it quickly as they seemed to have fixed it many times. I paid $100 as an extended warranty deductible.
  • 96blazer96blazer Member Posts: 2
    I just had this exact same problem - and I need to warn you that it will get worse and worse until you can't hardly get going anymore. It is the fuel pump. Mine went bad at 205000 miles. This thing is expensive so make sure it dies in a convenient place. I had to get mine fixed at a dealer out of town so he bent me over - Total bill was over $800.

    Good Luck!
  • locksmith2locksmith2 Member Posts: 1
    I am a locksmith by trade, I belive your jimmy has the pass key system. If you replaced the lock and the old lock case with the wires, you will have to go through a programing procedure turn the key to the on postion for 15 min. then turn off and back on for 15 min. ,do this one more time, then start it. Your computer should be reprogramed. I don't have my book at home but I belive that is right.You Key is a GM 10cut and the code is stamped on the old lock cylinder ,inside (on the plug). Good luck I hope this helps.
  • boatlantaboatlanta Member Posts: 7
    you needed starting fluid to crank it up! and I bet it knocks(keeps running with the switch off) when you turn the engine off too!
    May I suggest you look at the timing,it sounds way off.
    And also the distributor, could be warped or even a cracked cap...
    these are the creap things to look at first/
  • boatlantaboatlanta Member Posts: 7
    1 easy solution to check for jumping fire(sparking plug wire or wire near the cap or location the sound is coming from),remove the under hood lamp, at night crank it up and look for sparking, do not touch it while it is sparking or ouch...take a pencil and lay it pointing to the sparking,turn off engine and check that area for rubbed wire.Either replace the wire(plug wire) or use black tape to repair the area of the wire.
  • boatlantaboatlanta Member Posts: 7
    Sell it now,before the trouble starts,if I had seen these posts I would never have bought mine.
  • deputy2deputy2 Member Posts: 2
    I bought my 2002 TB from a dealership 6 mos. ago. No problems, really enjoying the car. At 43k it started acting up... would not start sometimes, all instrumentation would "pulsate erratically" but the battery ran a 11 volt test on load. I bought a new battery, things were great for a week, then, the same thing.
    It died on the freeway and would not start, guages crazy again. My mechanic put a new ignition switch in, but I'm not sure...... I read someone else had the same problem. Chevy dealer said they were "working on a solution?......
  • tmbjtmbj Member Posts: 1
    When making tight slow turns when the 4 wheel drive is engaged the wheels bind to the point that it will stop the vehicle. It was like this when new but is getting to the point that you feel the wheel(s) clunk.
    1999 Blazer original owner.
    Any Ideas?
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    Thanks for your advice to sell my Blazer before trouble starts. I honestly think that it is a good piece of advice. I would have spent over $1,000 dollars for repairs (bad ball joints and turning signal noise), which actually cost me only $200 due to the extended warranty. Who knows how much it will cost me to fix problems after my extended warranty expires in 2006. Perhaps I will have to decide whether or not to keep my Blazer by then.
  • dbkovachdbkovach Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 blazer and everything is going wrong. first of all when i get to about 50 mph, after its warmed up it like jerks while driving, only when im trying to go a steady speed. you can see the rmp gauge going up n down. its getting really scary. next problem. when i engage it in four wheel drive, it jerks really really bad, then someones it doesnt even disengage when i press the 2hi button. it feels like something is stuck in the front. 3rd problem when driving normally there is always a clicking noise. i have no idea what to do about any of this. please help.
  • cfrasercfraser Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 s15 Jimmy 2wd 4.3 vortec. I' trying to find the oil pressure switch which if not functioning will stop fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated.

    Craig
  • dojolydojoly Member Posts: 2
    I think my Jimmy is making the same noise. Sounds like a relay clicking on and off...on and off...sometimes worse than others.
    I also have been searching for it for a while & tonite found that it was coming from an electrical box behind the passenger side kick panel. Not sure what the box does, but now I can identify it to the mechanic. Sure was hard to find!!!
    Does anyone know what this box does? Can't find it in the Haynes manual.
    Thanks!
  • dojolydojoly Member Posts: 2
    The relay noise you are hearing is coming from behind the passenger side kick panel.
    Not sure what the box does, but I finally found the little bugger tonight.
  • snidesnide Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem. My gas pedal feels totally unresponsive and when cold or starting from a dead stop the motor stalls and sometimes pops like a carburated model with retarded timing. My service engine soon light comes on now and then but reports only a random misfire. I've had the injectors and throttle body serviced but it's still not fixed. This all started after the 90k service my shop replaced plugs and fuel filters, and serviced injectors and fuel systems. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • rileythedogrileythedog Member Posts: 5
    Here is another update.

    I took the 99 bazer to another dealer and verified that the 4x4 was not working.
    They changed a defective vacuum module and then discovered that the cable was also siezed. They lubricated it and all is well with the exception of they driveline howl.

    They also changed the ball joints again.

    The truck is still in the shop three weeks now. I personally think the howl is coming from the front differrential, possibly the ring and pinion is worn. I shared this idea with the shop foreman after a lengthy test drive. He said that if the 4x4 becomes partially engaged it may cause premature wear resulting in the above problem. More to follow.

    I also ask the tech to look into the "booming " sound that happens when you drive.
    The booming noise I am talking about is a low frequency noise that puts pressure on your ears that is usually cause by driveline vibration or exhaust. After a bit of research I found a GM repair document (ID#883304or #02-06-05-002 april 30 2002). This service repair involves installing an exhaust bracket to dampen the exhaust system. We are still working out who will pay for this.
  • mudthursteemudthurstee Member Posts: 3
    i just bought a 97 2door 5m blazer from my sister. she sold it because it wasnt running right. so far i have had it for two months and i have replaced an intake manifold gasket, cat converter, 02 sensor, and a passenger side upper ball joint. i thought it was running well after all that jazz but there is a grumbling/grinding sound coming from my front end whenever i take corners at low speeds (stop signs-intersections.) i know my cv joints are leaking but i dont know if low fluid would cause this. also there is a cracking sound whenever i turn my wheel almost to the max, either side. the cracking sound comes from the left side, and my right side sags about 2 inches lower than the left. PLEASE HELP ME OR JUST GIMME SUGGESTIONS.
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