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Blower Motor
GM S-Series Pick-ups and SUV's 1994-1999 Repair Guide
Utility Models
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. If equipped, remove the Vehicle Control Module (VCM) from the engine compartment.
3. Remove the coolant recovery reservoir.
4. Disconnect the blower motor cooling tube.
5. Unplug the electrical connector(s) from the blower motor, as necessary.
6. Remove the blower motor-to-case screws (the lower screw is on the bottom front of the cover).
7. Disconnect the harness from the blower motor.
8. Use a razor or utility knife to cut through the cover on the cut line as neatly as possible because the access cover has to be reinstalled.
9. Starting with upper half of the cover, tear the remaining part of the access cover from the remaining portion. Then remove the lower half of the cover in the same manner.
10.Remove the blower motor assembly.
To install:
11. Install the blower motor assembly.
12. Connect the two halves of the access cover together using the three flange clips.
13. Using black duct tape, place a piece of the tape along the bottom lower edge of the lower half of the lower cover only The tape has to be the full width of the cover.
14. Install the access cover onto the case.
15. Install the screw and align the cut areas.
16. Seal the cut areas using black weaterstrip adhesive. Do not use RTV to seal the assembly. The weatherstrip adhesive bead should be as straight as possible to ensure a neat and professional finish to the cover. Allow the adhesive to set at least 15 minutes until it skins over.
17. Attach the electrical connections.
18. Attach the cooling tube and install the coolant recovery reservoir.
19. If removed, install the VCM.
20. Connect the negative battery cable and refill the coolant reservoir to the proper level.
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small/0900823d8018be2f.jpg
Thanks I hope this helps,
Jared
I own my 2000 Blazer 4WD Trailblazer trim and I bought it as a new vehicle. My Blazer acts exactly as you described from the day I purchased. My previous Blazer, 1998 LS 4WD was the same.
To get to the thermostat follow the top right (looking at the motor from the front) coolant hose to the top of the engine. The thermostat is actually on the top of the engine, not the radiator.
You'll need two deep socket drives to get the bolts out/loose. I found the best way to do it was to remove the air intake manifold (just unscrew the oversized butterfly nut)...the whole thing from where the airfilter is and back. Once you do that use the deep socket drivers to remove the nuts and bolts. You'll also benifit greatly using an extention (8") to get to the bolts.
The piece that attaches to the motor/thermostat is hard metal, not rubber, the hose attached to that thing.It's also attached with only two bolts. Once the bolts are out you'll need to give it a good tug upwards to expose the thermostat.
The thermostat lifts right out. Make sure to pay attention on how the thermostat was in because you'll need to stick a new one in the same way.
Just reverese the steps to get it together and ...whalla!!!
Oh...make sure you drain about a gallon of anti-freeze from the radiator or else it'll go everywhere when you pull the thermostat covering off.
I actually stopped in at the dealership the other day when it wasn't working, and as soon as the car pulled onto the lot it started working again. Go figure....
Any idea what this is and if it can be fixed cheaply?
Cheers!
Thanks ddwriter
New to this site - appreciate any help. My son has been told his 96 Blazer fuel pump has low pressure. My husband will be repairing it. Can anyone give advice or lead me to a site that has details of how to drop the tank (if that is how you access it and think it is on this year and model) and replace the fuel pump.
Thank you
willi4
:mad:
Tank Assembly
Except With Shield Package
1. Properly drain the fuel tank, then disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. If not done already, raise and support the rear of the truck safely using jackstands.
3. If equipped on late-model vehicles, loosen and remove the tank plastic shield.
4. Loosen the retaining clamp and disconnect the tank filler hose from the tank neck.
If fuel and vapor hoses or pump/sending unit wiring can be accessed at this time, they may be tagged and disconnected. If not, wait for the retaining straps to be loosened and lower the tank slightly for access.
5. Tag and disconnect and accessible wiring or hoses from the top of the fuel tank.
6. Have and assistant support the fuel tank, then remove the fuel tank-to-vehicle straps and, if equipped, the isolation strips. If no assistant is available, position a floor jack to support the tank while the straps are removed.
7. Lower the tank slightly, then remove the sending unit or sending unit/pump wires, hoses and ground strap. Be sure to label all connections to ease installation.
8. Carefully lower the fuel tank from the vehicle and store in a safe place.
To install:
9. Raise the tank partially into position in the vehicle. If you are working without an assistant, you may wish to loosely install one of the retaining straps and use a floor jack to support the tank at an angle so there is access to the sending unit or sending unit/pump assembly (as applicable).
10. Connect the fuel/vapor hoses and wiring to the top of the fuel tank, as tagged during removal.
11. Carefully raise the fuel tank so it is fully into position and loosely secure the retaining straps. Make sure the wires and hoses are not pinched or damaged when raising the tank. Also, be sure that the isolation strips (if used) are positioned between the retaining straps and the fuel tank.
12. It may be easier to connect the fuel filler hose to the tank neck at this time. If desired, connect the hose and secure the clamp.
13. Tighten the fuel tank retaining strap fasteners to specification. Tighten the strap nuts to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
14. If not done earlier, connect the tank filler hose to the tank neck and secure using the clamp.
15. If equipped, install and secure the tank plastic shield.
16. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the rear of the truck.
17. Refill the fuel tank and install the filler cap, then check for leaks.
18. Connect the negative battery cable.
Equipped With Shield Package
1. Properly drain the fuel tank, then disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support the rear of the truck safely using jackstands.
3. Remove the shield forward support and bracket.
4. While supporting the shield and tank assembly with the help of both an assistant and a floor jack, remove the remaining bolts holding the assembly to the frame, then lower it sufficiently for access to the hoses and wires.
5. Tag and disengage the hoses and wires from the sending unit assembly.
6. Carefully lower the fuel tank and shield from the vehicle, then if necessary for service or replacement, separate the tank from the shield.
To install:
7. If separated, install the tank to the shield.
8. Carefully raise the tank and shield assembly partially into position with the help of an assistant and a floor jack.
9. Connect the wiring and hoses to the sending unit assembly, as tagged during removal.
10. Raise the tank and shield assembly fully into position, then secure to the frame using the lower retaining bolts.
11. Install the shield forward support bracket.
12. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the rear of the truck.
13. Refill the fuel tank and install the filler cap, then check for leaks.
14. Connect the negative battery cable.
thanks for the info. I appreciate it. Should make the job go easier.
Was the starter you replaced the larger one, with the extra 'lobe' on top (gear reduction) or was it a typical starter (just a round cyclinder).
Thanks. The parts store i called said there's 2 kinds.
Jerry
Can anyone reccomend an OBD code reader and where can I find a code explanation list?
Steve, Host
It came back as: P 1870 Component Slipping.
Further internet investigation revealed the following:
(I hope someone can help me decipher this)
P1870 = Transmission Component Slipping = A = *DTC P1870 will be stored in PCM history *Inhibit TCC engagement *Inhibit 4th gear if in hot mode *Freeze 1-2 shift adapts from being updated *Maximum line pressure
DTC = Description = DTC type = *Default Action
* DTC types
"A" Emission related, will turn on the MIL after first failure
"B" Emission related, will turn on the MIL after two consecutive trips with failure
"C" Non-emissions related, will turn on the MIL on first failure
"D" Non-emissions related, no lamp
(Isn't copy and paste great!)
Thanks,
Jon
Thank you.
The Central Multi-port Fuel Injection (CMFI) system, found on 1994-95 4.3L models, functions similarly to the TBI system in that an injection assembly (CMFI unit) is centrally mounted on the engine intake manifold. The major differences come in the incorporation of a split (upper and lower) intake manifold assembly with a variable tuned plenum (using an intake manifold tuning valve) and the CMFI unit's single fuel injector which feeds 6 poppet valves (1 for each individual cylinder).
The non-repairable CMFI assembly or injection unit consists of a fuel meter body, gasket seal, fuel pressure regulator, fuel injector and six poppet nozzles with fuel tubes. The assembly is housed in the lower intake manifold. Should a failure occur in the CMFI assembly, the entire component must be replaced as a unit.
THANKS!!!