Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

jal012773 · June 2005

I have a 2001 Blazer 4x4 that I have a question about. My 2 year old son loves for me to gas the Blazer then brake hard, bouncing us back and forth. I know that is murder on the gas mileage, but question concerns the transmission. Yesterday, as I was playing this game with my son, I heard a loud clank each time I hit the gas. Would this be an idication of a transmission problem? Since my extended warranty company (Platinum Warranty aka Warranty Wizard) just declared Chapter 11, I want to be prepared for what my lay ahead.

alcan · June 2005

Here you go:

Blower Motor
GM S-Series Pick-ups and SUV's 1994-1999 Repair Guide

Utility Models

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. If equipped, remove the Vehicle Control Module (VCM) from the engine compartment.
3. Remove the coolant recovery reservoir.
4. Disconnect the blower motor cooling tube.
5. Unplug the electrical connector(s) from the blower motor, as necessary.
6. Remove the blower motor-to-case screws (the lower screw is on the bottom front of the cover).
7. Disconnect the harness from the blower motor.
8. Use a razor or utility knife to cut through the cover on the cut line as neatly as possible because the access cover has to be reinstalled.
9. Starting with upper half of the cover, tear the remaining part of the access cover from the remaining portion. Then remove the lower half of the cover in the same manner.
10.Remove the blower motor assembly.

To install:

11. Install the blower motor assembly.
12. Connect the two halves of the access cover together using the three flange clips.
13. Using black duct tape, place a piece of the tape along the bottom lower edge of the lower half of the lower cover only The tape has to be the full width of the cover.
14. Install the access cover onto the case.
15. Install the screw and align the cut areas.
16. Seal the cut areas using black weaterstrip adhesive. Do not use RTV to seal the assembly. The weatherstrip adhesive bead should be as straight as possible to ensure a neat and professional finish to the cover. Allow the adhesive to set at least 15 minutes until it skins over.
17. Attach the electrical connections.
18. Attach the cooling tube and install the coolant recovery reservoir.
19. If removed, install the VCM.
20. Connect the negative battery cable and refill the coolant reservoir to the proper level.

http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small/0900823d8018be2f.jpg

hoserdude · June 2005

My Jimmy's Electric Locks are going crazy. They keep locking the truck every two seconds! As soon as you unlock it, they lock it and the system keeps trying to lock it even when it already locked. help!

jandsaman · June 2005

I have a '98 Blazer. It's been great and has only 94,000 miles on it. Lately, when I try to start it, sometimes it does nothing as if there is no power, or the gauges all go crazy and the messages flash on the dash as if it has been taken over by aliens! Sometimes it starts okay, and then it does this once I get going. It usually stops after a few seconds, but it is getting harder to start. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

ilovemyjimmy · June 2005

i have a 1986 full size jimmy and have recently lifted it 4 inches with 32s when i drive only while coasting , not braking or accelerating there is a noise like rubbing and grinding. i jacked it up in my driveway and let it coast and i think the driveline is at to much of an angle after the lift does anyone else have the same problem if so is there anyway to keep the stock driveline or should i wait until it brakes to buy a new one?

mr_nitz · June 2005

Bought a year ago - it is my first 4WD vehicle. 158,000Km. The thing that I noticed is that when I have it in 4WD Hi or Low, it seems as if it has to fight to move at low speed. For example when I turn into a parking spot, I really have to give it the gas to get it to move the last few feet, especially when turning at the same time. Same thing happens in reverse ie. backing out of the driveway. Anyone have any ideas what this could be a sign of or what could be in need of repair? Thanks in advance.

dtl · June 2005

Did you get an answer? If so what was the solution? I have a similar problem; My car does not start in the morning! I live in Aruba and we have day temperature of 85/90degrees. I suspect a condensation problem because at noon it start perfectly fine for the rest of the day, but the next morning same problem again, the motor turns, no battery, boegie, no cables, no fuel problems. two technicians checked out the car, fuel pump renewed approx. 1 year ago. Who can help me with this, please advice where or what to look for!! Thanks in advance for your help!!!

dtl · June 2005

My Chevy Blazer 97 does not start in the morning! I live in Aruba and we have day temperature of 85/90degrees. I suspect a condensation problem because at noon it start perfectly fine for the rest of the day, but the next morning same problem again, the motor turns, no battery, bougie, no cables, no fuel problems. two technicians checked out the car, fuel pump renewed approx. 1 year ago. Who can help me with this, please advice where or what to look for!!

clovergirl · June 2005

I am having the exact same problem with my 2001 Blazer. Got any suggestions yet. I am afraid it is going to be the alternator.

my_blazer2000 · June 2005

you can look in the main fuse box under the hood on the drivers side after you open the fuse box look inside it and it will tell you. (Mabey)

Thanks I hope this helps,
Jared

wooddog52 · June 2005

My 94 Jimmy stalls when its hot out while driving... its a 4.3L engine...It seems to run fine then it just stalls...it used to restart itself but lately I've had to pull over and put it into park and restart it [which it restarts without a problem]...At first I thought there was a water problem in the gas but have since ruled that out with Dry gas applications..We drove home 90 miles a few weeks ago and every 10 miles it would stall,later in the trip it was like every 2 miles....CAN ANY BODY HELP???? I hate to take it to our local mechanics as they just replace things till they seem to get them "right"...It seems to happen more when it's over 75-80 degrees...THANX

mr_nitz · June 2005

My 98 did the same thing. Found that it was the fuel pump. Keeping the tank more than a 1/4 full at all times when it's hot will help if this is the same problem as I had. Pump was noisy, made a whirring sound when under a quarter tank. Filling it up with nice cool fuel from the underground tanks quiets it and stops it from cutting out. Hope that helps.

wooddog52 · June 2005

Thanx for the info but I'm not sure about it being a gas problem...it almost acts like a sensor or something electronic is getting too hot or overheated possibly causing the animal to stall then when its restarted it clears ...I'm not sure but I'm thinking this way...Though it does act similar to a vapor lock but then it does start right back up...Darn gremlins!!!!!!! I'm pulling my already thinning hair out in clumps!!!!!

auto9999 · June 2005

You do not have to worry about it in my opinion.

I own my 2000 Blazer 4WD Trailblazer trim and I bought it as a new vehicle. My Blazer acts exactly as you described from the day I purchased. My previous Blazer, 1998 LS 4WD was the same.

anje260255 · June 2005

I have a '96 Blazer and it just recently started doing the same thing...at low speeds and in reverse it tends to take a little more effort. I also had a question on what color my Radiator fluid is supposed to be. If you have help or any advice was given to you please help me out.

tyronejackson · June 2005

I had the same problem. My thermostat's gasket became warped and began to allow for small ammounts of fluid to be released over time. To repair it all I did was replace the themostat and gasket with a new one...cost about $8.00. Before you walk out of the store with a new theormostat, make sure there is one already in the package, or buy one to go with.

To get to the thermostat follow the top right (looking at the motor from the front) coolant hose to the top of the engine. The thermostat is actually on the top of the engine, not the radiator.

You'll need two deep socket drives to get the bolts out/loose. I found the best way to do it was to remove the air intake manifold (just unscrew the oversized butterfly nut)...the whole thing from where the airfilter is and back. Once you do that use the deep socket drivers to remove the nuts and bolts. You'll also benifit greatly using an extention (8") to get to the bolts.

The piece that attaches to the motor/thermostat is hard metal, not rubber, the hose attached to that thing.It's also attached with only two bolts. Once the bolts are out you'll need to give it a good tug upwards to expose the thermostat.

The thermostat lifts right out. Make sure to pay attention on how the thermostat was in because you'll need to stick a new one in the same way.

Just reverese the steps to get it together and ...whalla!!!

Oh...make sure you drain about a gallon of anti-freeze from the radiator or else it'll go everywhere when you pull the thermostat covering off.

masterjedi73 · June 2005

The air conditioning in my Blazer works fine sometimes, but once in a while the A/C light on the dashboard will blink (3 times) and then it will not work for a while. It will blow out air, but it won't be cool.

I actually stopped in at the dealership the other day when it wasn't working, and as soon as the car pulled onto the lot it started working again. Go figure....

Any idea what this is and if it can be fixed cheaply?

warrenman · June 2005

I recently purchased a 00 Jimmy 2dr 4x4. Its a great truck, runs strong. One problem i have encountered (at least i think it may be a problem), is a rattle coming from under the hood. When accelerating or revving the engine, a slight rattle begins to make noise at about 2500 rpm. This happens whether it is sitting in park or if there is a load on the engine. It does not affect the performance at all. I have been unable to detect the exact point it is coming from. Has anyone had this ,and if so what did you do.

mr_nitz · June 2005

Mine is orange. It's called Dex-Cool. The right kind for your truck would be listed in the owners manual, but I'm reasonably sure if you have the 4.3L V6, it's Dex-cool as well.

Cheers!

ddwriter · June 2005

Hi, I own a 1988 Chevy S-10 Blazer and the phantom wipe(r) deal is driving me nuts. When I put the turn indicator on, it wipes. Sometimes I'm driving down the road and a phantom wipe crops up. Any suggestions on how to fix?

Thanks ddwriter

willi4 · June 2005

Hi
New to this site - appreciate any help. My son has been told his 96 Blazer fuel pump has low pressure. My husband will be repairing it. Can anyone give advice or lead me to a site that has details of how to drop the tank (if that is how you access it and think it is on this year and model) and replace the fuel pump.

Thank you
willi4

unverviking · June 2005

I replaced an alternator on my father in law's 97 blazer 4.3, 4wd, a/c tonight and in removing the alternator with a prybar, i reefed on the passenger side of the alternator a little to break it loose from the mount and pop, the front "dog ear" popped off with the mount bushing... I've got it back in and tightened down as best as I could, but I want/should replace the dog ear. It looks like it bolts onto the front of the block. Anyone knows what it's called ?? In the morning I'm gonna start calling jy's and want to at least sound knowledgeable. TIA to all

:mad:

alcan · July 2005

GM S-Series Pick-ups and SUV's 1994-1999 Repair Guide
Tank Assembly
Except With Shield Package

1. Properly drain the fuel tank, then disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. If not done already, raise and support the rear of the truck safely using jackstands.
3. If equipped on late-model vehicles, loosen and remove the tank plastic shield.
4. Loosen the retaining clamp and disconnect the tank filler hose from the tank neck.

If fuel and vapor hoses or pump/sending unit wiring can be accessed at this time, they may be tagged and disconnected. If not, wait for the retaining straps to be loosened and lower the tank slightly for access.

5. Tag and disconnect and accessible wiring or hoses from the top of the fuel tank.
6. Have and assistant support the fuel tank, then remove the fuel tank-to-vehicle straps and, if equipped, the isolation strips. If no assistant is available, position a floor jack to support the tank while the straps are removed.
7. Lower the tank slightly, then remove the sending unit or sending unit/pump wires, hoses and ground strap. Be sure to label all connections to ease installation.
8. Carefully lower the fuel tank from the vehicle and store in a safe place.

To install:

9. Raise the tank partially into position in the vehicle. If you are working without an assistant, you may wish to loosely install one of the retaining straps and use a floor jack to support the tank at an angle so there is access to the sending unit or sending unit/pump assembly (as applicable).
10. Connect the fuel/vapor hoses and wiring to the top of the fuel tank, as tagged during removal.
11. Carefully raise the fuel tank so it is fully into position and loosely secure the retaining straps. Make sure the wires and hoses are not pinched or damaged when raising the tank. Also, be sure that the isolation strips (if used) are positioned between the retaining straps and the fuel tank.
12. It may be easier to connect the fuel filler hose to the tank neck at this time. If desired, connect the hose and secure the clamp.
13. Tighten the fuel tank retaining strap fasteners to specification. Tighten the strap nuts to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
14. If not done earlier, connect the tank filler hose to the tank neck and secure using the clamp.
15. If equipped, install and secure the tank plastic shield.
16. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the rear of the truck.
17. Refill the fuel tank and install the filler cap, then check for leaks.
18. Connect the negative battery cable.

Equipped With Shield Package

1. Properly drain the fuel tank, then disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support the rear of the truck safely using jackstands.
3. Remove the shield forward support and bracket.
4. While supporting the shield and tank assembly with the help of both an assistant and a floor jack, remove the remaining bolts holding the assembly to the frame, then lower it sufficiently for access to the hoses and wires.
5. Tag and disengage the hoses and wires from the sending unit assembly.
6. Carefully lower the fuel tank and shield from the vehicle, then if necessary for service or replacement, separate the tank from the shield.

To install:
7. If separated, install the tank to the shield.
8. Carefully raise the tank and shield assembly partially into position with the help of an assistant and a floor jack.
9. Connect the wiring and hoses to the sending unit assembly, as tagged during removal.
10. Raise the tank and shield assembly fully into position, then secure to the frame using the lower retaining bolts.
11. Install the shield forward support bracket.
12. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the rear of the truck.
13. Refill the fuel tank and install the filler cap, then check for leaks.
14. Connect the negative battery cable.

willi4 · July 2005

Alcan

thanks for the info. I appreciate it. Should make the job go easier.

iamwoman · July 2005

That's so true, there are so many other things we could be spending money on. I changed the brakes on my Blazer twice in 7 years and the second time I changed the rotors. I had to buy a few tools I didn't realize I needed until it tore apart but the whole job took just over $100.00 instead of $450.00. Some of the bolts were hard to get loosened but I called a small repair shop and asked them if there was something I could do to get it off. They told me apply heat so I bought a tourch and held it on the bolt for a couple of minutes and it worked!!! I'm not a strong woman, but there is always a way to get things done.

tailgunnerb52 · July 2005

My 2001 Blazer idles very rough and sets no codes and doesn't turn on the check engine light. Plugs and wires have been replaced, and the cap/rotor are still good. It has around 60,000 miles. Any ideas??

rogerm · July 2005

My 1991 Jimmy is having running problems. These are the symptoms, it coughs through the intake when running down the road and I took it to a trusted mechanic. He said it had fuel pressure problems and suggested it was the fuel pump. We changed the fuel pump, filter, and throttle body and vehicle is still having same symptoms. Any suggestions?

stephanieh · July 2005

The driver's side seatbelt locks when I pul lit out too quickly and then will not unlock. Sometimes it is 3 or 4 days before it releases. I have had it replaced once. Is it something I am doing? And, once it locks, how do I unlock it? I have a 2004 Trailblazer

cvitko · July 2005

I had the same problem on a 94 Jeep Cheroke. Drove me crazy for a year. Kept getting worse. Engine would just shut off while driving then turn itself back on. Got so bad that you would just have to sit and wait and keep trying. Tried everything starting from the distributor to the relays to the fuel pump. Turned out to be the TDC (top dead Center) sensor mounted on the bell housing of the transmission. One bolt and it was out and replaced in 15 minutes. $80 for the jeep. Hope this helps in your situation. I'd hate to see another one of us lose their hair.

jackfrost · July 2005

Hi,
Was the starter you replaced the larger one, with the extra 'lobe' on top (gear reduction) or was it a typical starter (just a round cyclinder).

Thanks. The parts store i called said there's 2 kinds.

Jerry

badassblazer24 · July 2005

check ur turn signal relay it's inside the cover were ur e_ brake lever release is should be a white box next to the horn relay

blazer100 · July 2005

I have the same problem with my 99 blazer. All though, it has stopped working completly. It was hooked up to the coputer system at the dealership and i was told that there are no codes comming out of it meaning that, i guess, the computer finds nothing wrong. I tried to recharge the 134a in it but before putting the stuff in it the gage said it was over charged and in the red area. I have no idea whats going on.

jon80457 · July 2005

We recently purchased a '98 Blazer. The "service engine soon" lite has come on.
Can anyone reccomend an OBD code reader and where can I find a code explanation list?

stever · July 2005

Many auto parts stores will pull the codes for free now and tell you what the code stands for.

Steve, Host

catrina1977 · July 2005

I just purchased a 2001 Chevy Blazer LT 4WD and the engine light came on. When my mechanic put it on the machine the problem was I needed an air pump - it was an emissions issue. This problem caused nothing mechanically wrong but the vehicle would not pass inspection (which it's not due for until next June anyway). Luckily it is still under warranty and was replaced for free. My mechanic advised the cost to replaced the air pump and hoses would have been about $189 for parts and $50 for labor.

catrina1977 · July 2005

I just purchased a 2001 Chevy Blazer and the material I've read said that Onstar comes standard on the 2001 LT's - is this a myth? Where would I look to see if I had Onstar?

jon80457 · July 2005

I went to one of my local parts stores and they read the codes. (Thanks Steve).
It came back as: P 1870 Component Slipping.
Further internet investigation revealed the following:
(I hope someone can help me decipher this)
P1870 = Transmission Component Slipping = A = *DTC P1870 will be stored in PCM history *Inhibit TCC engagement *Inhibit 4th gear if in hot mode *Freeze 1-2 shift adapts from being updated *Maximum line pressure

DTC = Description = DTC type = *Default Action

* DTC types

"A" Emission related, will turn on the MIL after first failure
"B" Emission related, will turn on the MIL after two consecutive trips with failure
"C" Non-emissions related, will turn on the MIL on first failure
"D" Non-emissions related, no lamp
(Isn't copy and paste great!)
Thanks,
Jon

chevy_driver · July 2005

Where is the drainhole for A/C on '94 Blazer?I have condensation draining on the passengers side front floor board.
Thank you.

draslanson · July 2005

My 97 Jimmy is running great but I have an annoying problem with the ignition. The mechanism that invovles the automatic transmission and ignition is malfunctioning. Often when I put the truck in park and turn the truck off, the key will only turn far enough to turn the engine off but not far enough to take the key out. I have to manipulate the key and shifter many times before I hear a simple "click" and know I can take the key out. This is driving me crazy. Any thoughts?

draslanson · July 2005

I have seen a couple of posts regarding this problem but no answers, so I thought I'd bring it up again. The a/c in my 97 Jimmy is blowing from the dash and floor no matter what setting I use. I have read something about a possible vacume line leak that causes this. How about some suggestions for what to do about it? Its getting hot in Texas and I could use some advice. Thanks!

sleepycali07 · July 2005

I am having the same problem on my 97 blazer. It drives fine for the first 10 minutes then it makes a clicking noise and gets worse. The car seems to overheat and eventually shuts itself off. It starts back up and the longer i wait the easier it is to drive but it obviously just happens again. I never noticed it really b/c i drove 10 minutes to work and back but i took it out for a half hour and now its sitting on the street (legally at the moment). I'm afraid if I try and get it to my mechanic it'll explode or not start up again. Anything I can do at the car to ease it up? I dont know so much about cars but I learn fast and have some help.

zachb · July 2005

I've got a problem with a Jimmy that gets terrible gas mileage (9-11/gal), the fuel pours out the [non-permissible content removed] end in the form of black smoke each time a get on the petal. I get the trouble codes for tps high and low voltage, EGR valve, and Rich Exhaust when I plug the wire into the connector under the dash. I've replaced the O2 sensor and the TPS sensor, when I took the EGR off it had a bit of carbon clogging it up, but thats been cleaned and the valve is still good. Anyone with a solution to my problem?

cdr2 · July 2005

It may be a bad wheel bearing. If you look at a new wheel bearing there is a wire on it that needs to be plugged in to run the anti-lock sensor. Apparenly the anti-lock brake sensor is inside the housing for the wheel bearing. Once the bearing starts to go bad the anti lock sensor doesn't work. I had the same problem on my 98 Blazer. Of course, the bearing made a bad grinding noise for a while before I noticed the anti-lock light coming on,but one I replaced the bearing the light went out. Just and idea...

coffey41 · July 2005

My 1997 S-10 Blazer is doing something weird. I think it might be the ignition switch but I'm not sure. When I try to start the truck, I've noticed that the dash lights (the dummy lights that come on for a few seconds and then go out) do not come on when I turn the key, and the truck won't start. But, when the dash lights do flash on for a few seconds, the truck starts with no problem. Any ideas? I have tried everything else... new plugs, fuel filter, fuel pump, air filter. It started doing this about three weeks ago, and has progressively gotten worse, which is what lead me to believe it might have been the fuel pump. Thanks.

codeman · July 2005

:confuse: my mom has a 98 gmc jimmy and recently the check engine light came on so i took it to auto zone and had it checked the guy said that there was some thing wrong with the 4 wheel drive but it is a 2 wheel drive suv and also some times when she is driving when ever she accelerates when it starts to shift in to the next gear it almost like slams really hard it makes you go forward and the engine reves up pretty high before shifting can any one help me please

alcan · July 2005

Check fuel pressure. If it's high, the pressure regulator's done. Here's some info on them:

The Central Multi-port Fuel Injection (CMFI) system, found on 1994-95 4.3L models, functions similarly to the TBI system in that an injection assembly (CMFI unit) is centrally mounted on the engine intake manifold. The major differences come in the incorporation of a split (upper and lower) intake manifold assembly with a variable tuned plenum (using an intake manifold tuning valve) and the CMFI unit's single fuel injector which feeds 6 poppet valves (1 for each individual cylinder).

The non-repairable CMFI assembly or injection unit consists of a fuel meter body, gasket seal, fuel pressure regulator, fuel injector and six poppet nozzles with fuel tubes. The assembly is housed in the lower intake manifold. Should a failure occur in the CMFI assembly, the entire component must be replaced as a unit.

toolfrk48 · July 2005

I am wondering what the proper carb needle setting should be on a 1985 chevy s-10 blazer 4x4 with a 2.8 v6. I have 2 different carbs for the truck numbers are 17085362 (installed) and 17084354 (spare). If you have any advice or sugestions please post them. Thank you for your time.

kminica · July 2005

my 1998 blazer wont start in the am unless i get up around midnight and start it. it backfires in the am turning over and over . replaced fuel pump, crank sensor, please help its driving me crazy

bigal2003 · July 2005

I have a 1996 chevy blazer with 153,000 miles on it. About a week ago, when i started to break, there was a constant "airy" sound. i took it to the shop, and they said the power booster was going bad, but did not have to be replaced yet. They wanted to charge me $500 to replace it. Well, over the last couple of days, after i have stopped for a minute or so at a traffic light, when i go to accelerate, my engine "jerks" and will finally go. Is this related to the power booster? Also, i can get a power booster for about a hundred bucks. Are they easy to change, or do i need to take it to the shop? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
THANKS!!!

bfraser · July 2005

had this on my 98, very intermittent. I thought I was going to need a new ignition switch, however - The key lock solenoid wires run down to a switch attached to shift lever on the floor. Look for a small plug next to the shifter, 3 of the 4 wires had either pulled out or chaffed from the shifter tugging on the wiring harness.

Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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