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How do you get to it or do you know of a site with an illustration for location and part?
Thanks.dec
I spent 6 hours in 85% humidity changing my Power booster yesterday S10 with 167,000 miles - It sounds easy in the book. - It really is not for the faint hearted. Access to the bolts through the firewall is a pain - the top two are hidden behind the steering column. (when you have lost all knuckles and got all four nuts off) then the fun starts - trying to get the Booster out of the engine bay - what can I say - set aside a full day without interruptions. Having got the old one out, the new one is fairly easy to fit back in though.
Good luck. It is worth it in the end.
Thanks!
Thanks.
It already had an antifreeze leak. Turns out it was the water pump. Fixed that!
Eversence I fixed the water pump the truck will stall while in idle, park and will start revving itself up while being driven. I have not been able to use the vehicle for months and need to be able to diagnose the problem. I have been told it could be the mass air flow system , the Fuel injection system , or an electrical problem . Please help me
Thanks
Thank you,
Russell
Although a Blazer/Jimmy can be of a long life, your message makes me feel that a usage of 10 years and 200,000 miles may be when a Blazer/Jimmy can be retired. Having said that, I wish you and your Jimmy the best of luck. Please let us know if your Jimmy becomes strong again to hit the road.
We were quite happy until it started to give us problems (or maybe is just wear and tear?????. Nine months ago we had to replace the Transfer case (almost 2k). Then last week I took the truck to the dealer (which I am always afraid since they always "find" other problems that need to be fixed) to check the 4Low setting which turned out to be ok. But as I've mentioned before the found the following problems which they said is normal wear and tear?????
1) Need to replace driver side door hinges since the door drops a little when you open it--------------cost $170
2) Need to replace Front and rear oil cooler lines---------------cost $240 and $221 respectively
3) Front and rear pinion seal need to be replace-----------------$99 and $111
4) Exhaust Seals -----$275
5) Oil Line Adapter Seals need to be replaced----------$66
6) Coolant low intakes is leaking-------------------$850
The truck has now 78,000 and my wife only drives it 6 miles per day on average. The mechanic told me that he own the same truck and after I make those repairs I can count on the Jimmy to last us a very long time. I don't mind spending the money if it is normal wear and tear. But I dont want this to become a money pit.
Have anyone ever experienced the above mentioned problems?
Are these normal wear and tear problems?
Are those prices fair if anyone of you have fixed the same problems, please share with us the priced paid for the service.
Thanks so much in advance for your responses.
http://www.tomco-inc.com/
So I would like to revisit Jon's original question. Which OBD will work best with the '98 Jimmy? I see some on eBay, etc. Also, is the Jimmy fully OBD II compliant?
Thanks.
http://tools.batauto.com/index.php?crn=104&action=show&show_products_mode=cat_click
All passenger cars and light trucks sold in the U.S. and Canada since 1996 are fully OBD III compliant.
temp control, a lever that moved up and down, was disconnected inside the dash. So the
temp control was actually set to Hot no matter where the lever was. A piece of plastic broke and the "cable'" just moved around without actually doing anything. Sort of like a bicycle brake line the inner cable did not move inside the tube. It was blowing Hot and Cold at the same time, all you really felt was the hot. I manually changed the "cable" by pushing it into the tube and Voila ICE COLD A/C.
I don't know what your controls are like but you might be blowing Hot heater air and Cold A/C air at the same time.
Good luck!
It has AutoTap software, a BAT Coffer cup, stickers, license plate... etc.
Are you refering to the AutoScan software? What I really want is a handheld device which I can plug in, get a list of codes and messages, and then clear the non-critical alerts from the computer.
Thanks.
Anybody have any ideas what's going on -- or what to check?
Thanks!
http://tools.batauto.com/index.php?crn=205&rn=1409&action=show_detail
of the truck. I checked the tire on the back, it is secure. I checked the tach, it
does not lose rpms. I towed a boat and thought it was the trailer, but it still making
the noise about every 60 seconds or comes and goes. The noise sounds like the tire on back door closing, but not as loud. I also checked the exhaust system, it
seems okay.
I do hear the fan working and it does blow air at the lower sections.
any ideas? thanks
thanks
I have a 2000 GMC Diamond edition. Would not trade it for anything.
Great car.
nealh1
I too have experienced some of the troubles found in this forum. This vehicle is not the most reliable vehicle and chances are you will nickel and dime to maintain your vehicle. Fortunately I have purchased the manufacturer's extended warranty 6 year/60,000 miles so my out of pocket expenses have been minimal so far.
Good thing for a buyer is that the used car price of Blazer seems to be lower than other mid-size SUVs, which would leave you some money for possible future repairs and maintenance. Good luck on your decision.
whenever it sits for about 8 or more hours(usually the mornings), it has trouble starting. when it finally does start a cloud of white smoke shoots out of the exhaust. This leads me to believe that oil is getting into my fuel somehow and is burning off when it finally starts. are you losing any oil pressure? i am but can't find where the hell its going.probably a leaky valve . let me know if you find anything out. dcblake69@yahoo
( we bled the brakes to make sure but still the same thing)
Steve, Host
The front left tire was leaking air and was pulling the car to the left. Tire was patched. Can also feel tire rotation within the car at high speeds, like when accelerating onto the highway.
Brakes, pads and rotors were replaced last year. I just sunk $1500 into the 4 wheel drive system in March, $1500 last August for brakes. I'd really like to not pay alot again to get this fixed. Any advice would be appreciated.