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Thanks guys!
What area are you from I am in Kamloops B.C. Canada..
Thx...
http://www.transmissionspecialty.com/parts/parts/77805.htm
Have they verified front and rear driveline angles? Sounds like a classic driveshaft angle problem.
* stalling, especially when starting after cold soak
* hesitation, stumble and rough running during warm-up
* tip-in hesitation or stumble
* surge at cruise, even with warm engine
* poor acceleration
* low engine vacuum.
These are the problems I am having.
Replaced egr valve ........ DID NOT FIX PLEASE HELP
@ the dealership at the time for my 4 wheel drive problems that I wouldn't take it to them until now. Prior to it quitting completely I had it to the best mechanic in our town and he checked it out the fuel pump, filter and all was good. Unfortunately he does not have the diagnostic equip & he had suggested that I take it in as it seemed to be the injection assembly as all the same problems happened to his friends 95 Jimmy and the same dealership ended up changing the injection assembly. Well I finally take it in and tell them all the problems with the fowl smelling fuel, idling low, powering out, and that I believe they need to check the fuel pressure for problems and I take in your information sheet. They did a fuel system flush and fuel pressure ok but bleeds back thru pump cured self during test. $450 a 1 days driving & it died on my 17yr old, out of town. Not a happy parent. I wished my other mechanic had the proper equipment, he is the only one who is an honest mechanic around here towards male or female.
Does this still sound like the injection assembly? Thanks for the help.
Please help.
Steve, Host
Yep. It's not that difficult a job to remove the upper intake plenum and visually check out the lines from the central injection assembly to the 6 poppet valves at the cylinders. They've had their share of problems, and are replaced as an assembly. Usually when they go out they're replaced with the multiport injection system.
I connected the wires with the clip back to the correct spot, as there is only one place for them. I connected the red wire from the battery to the screw on the back of the alternator. But I'm not sure where the black wire goes. Does this go on the same screw as the red wire? Thanks.
Thanks
Joe
Is there an vent to the gas tank that may be blocked? Any one else have this problem and found the solution? Please help...Thanks Frank
I have finally fixed the problem , so if anyone else has had the same symptoms my jimmy had , then listen up!!
VERY CHEEP FIX ........
all i needed to do was replace the
MAP SENSOR
COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
and for good measure I replaced the
Mass Air Flow Sensor
You will probably expect to spend right around 200 bucks probably under
The codes read as follows.......
P0118 = Coolant temperature sensor
P0102= Mass Air flow sensor , Maf Sensor, and or vacume hose off or cracked
or the throtle body intake loose or cracked. I hope this helps some of you . i know i went through hell trying to figure this out .
Thanks
Tasha
I will try to make this short and sweet. I read on a message board from about five years ago that someone had a 94 Blazer that was overheating only when they towed a boat (3500lbs), or in my case climb hills without the boat or towing the boat. I had the Blazer checked out by a mechanic before i bought it, and he said it needed some work, but that he could fix the problems. Before he could get his hands on it I drove it to friends and the thing only went about 60MPH the whole way there. Then when I was about 5 miles from the house it over heated badly. The next day it went into the shop and the mechanic disconnected a brown wire in the glove box (I think he called it a ESV connector, or something like that) and he told me by doing this it would reset the computer so that you could properly check the timing. After doing all that it ran 10 times better. He then proceeded to replace pretty much the whole top part of the engine.
After doing all this and blowing my muffler literally to smitherines he put the valves back in place and sealed her up. Not three days later the engine started knocking and it has been this way now for 5 months. Before i fired him he told me that it was the valves needing to be adjusted. When he came to adjust them he told me that unfortunately it was the engine and that the previous owner had probably poured Lucas engine restorer into the block.
Five months later and 3more pretty bad overheating the truck is still running. i have put two thermostats in this thing and I finally was told to take the thermostat out. I have 60wt motor oil in the block because i was told it was probably going to blow anyway and that this would prolong it. I drive it just once a week and when it gets hot i just stop and let it cool down, or shove a water hose in the radiator (which has been flushed twice). It doesn't leak water it circulates water and the fan works fine. The only thing it does is fill my coolant tank with boiling hot water!
Please any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! i am sick of hearing different things from all my back yard mechanic friends. The dealership is screaming new engine. All this time the check engine light has never come on except for when it hits 260!! Please help hitch773@yahoo.com
Problem:
Gas is making it to the filter inside the carb, but some solenoid or valve or something is stopping the fuel from going into the carb.
Engine will fire with ether.
No gas is spraying down the bores when moving the throttle cable.
Obvious failures have been elimanated, i.e. new fuel filter, check fuel pump pressure, etc.
Facts:
There is a sensor with two wires located on the pass. side of the carb., toward the front of the truck, right above the fuel filter. One wire comes from the harness to one side of the sensor. This wire is hot with the key turned to “ON”. The wire comes from the other side of the sensor and dead ends into some connection on the manifold (maybe a water jacket tap, but I’m not sure.) There were a few ports on the manifold that were plugged off on the ’85 intake manifold when I got the engine back from the rebulider. They didn’t say if I needed to do anything on my end to make sure the engine would run, regarding bypassing sensors for the ECM.
Questions:
1. Could this sensor prevent fuel from entering the carb if there is a bad signal either from the ECM or the other in-line solenoids, valves or sensors?
2. If it is possible, is there a way to either ground or provide 12VDC or a reference signal of 5VDC to the sensor to let the fuel pass?
3. What kind of trouble did I get myself into by using an early ‘70’s block? Is there any other things that I need to do in order to “trick” the EMC, i.e. bypass the knock sensor, EGR, TPS, IAC, O2 or any other systems Chevy implemented?
Since the replacement life is so much better in the rain. :P
I can't switch to 4 WD mode... probably for a reason. Anyone has an
idea what can it be ?
Thanks