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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • morencyjmorencyj Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2000, didn't come with the anchor system...I believe 2001+ models all came equipped with them. For anyone who has used the anchor systems, you know how much easier (and maybe safer) they are...especially if you are always moving a car seat from one vehicle to another. My question is if its possible to get the anchor system installed after the fact. Can this be done from the dealer? Has anybody had this done?

    Thanks guys!
  • paradise3paradise3 Member Posts: 1
    well, i hate to tell you, but I have a 1999 GMC Jimmy, and I put just about everything into it, 2 months ago, I bought a new transfer case and now I have a rattling, I thought it was the new tires that I just bought, I egnored it because I hated the thought that I would have toput more money into it. I took it to a garage and now I need auto hubs. Which is about a $800.00 job. I have replaced so many parts in this vehicle that I paid for it over and over and am still paying for it. Ihope your problem isen't as servere as mine, but I think we both have lemons. GOOD LUCK!
  • flexyflexy Member Posts: 5
    I have had the exact same problem the vibration was so severe that it has eaten out my transfer case's rear bushing. My Jimmy is a 2005 as well. I am know waiting for the district service manager to come and check it our him self but he only comes into our area once a month and I'm told I'll be waiting till mid September. While I'm waiting I'm going to take it to every dealer that will look at it. I'm even thinking of getting the local paper involved and a lawyer. I was a die hard chev man now I'm thinking Toyota!!!!!!!!! :mad:
  • jeffhawnjeffhawn Member Posts: 5
    Just an update. The problem was caused by some rusty wire coming out of the computer; which created an electircal short. A 6" slice fixed all its ails.
  • luvsgod7luvsgod7 Member Posts: 3
    Sporadic trouble with my 97 Blazer (automatic trans) at high speeds on the freeway. It's like it won't shift into OD sometimes, and if it stays above 2000 rpms long enough, the SES light turns on. If I keep the SES light from coming on, when I pull off the freeway and shift from 1st into 2nd, the shift is really rough. Is it a transmission issue? I've taken it to a couple of places when the SES light is on, and no one seems to be able to tell me what the problem is (one time I was told it was a cylinder misfire?). This is a particular problem going up hills, but does not happen constantly and the SES light turns itself off after a while. I am sick of this happening and ready to have the transmission yanked and painfully dissected. Can anyone tell me what the issue is? I am female and can't fix anything or speak car-speak, but I can get my way with mechanics.
  • rambo41rambo41 Member Posts: 8
    flexy.

    What area are you from I am in Kamloops B.C. Canada..

    Thx... :blush:
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    What diagnostic trouble code numbers have been retrieved? If there's a stored P1870, this is usually the cause:

    http://www.transmissionspecialty.com/parts/parts/77805.htm
  • flexyflexy Member Posts: 5
    I'm live London Ontario Area if you would like to email me please use rcooke@quadro.net
  • luvsgod7luvsgod7 Member Posts: 3
    I don't know what codes have been retrieved, unfortunately. But from the reading I've done here, that may very well be the problem. Is that costly to repair? Transmission shop kind of thing, or can I take it to a general mechanic? No dealerships for me...
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Best bet is to take it to an independent transmission shop. The dealers will want to replace the valve body, and general repair shops won't have the specialized knowledge or tooling required to perform the repair.
  • prouxproux Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 and mine has 2 anchors. They are on the floor in the rear. They look like little triangles if my memory is correct. If you do not have them, the dealer should be able to install them for free as it is a safety issue. I would get them installed ASAP.
  • tommctommc Member Posts: 66
    Our 01 also did this as you describe. Although we've sure had our share of problems with this dealer, they got it right on this deal. They had a Hunter "Road Force" wheel balancer system to actually read the tires with road pressure on them. This will pin point a stiff sidewall, bad belt, or any other runout causing defect. Our tires were rebalanced for about a 50% improvement, and one tire replaced that really fixed the problem. These are Uniroyals and I've really had good luck this brand on several S series vehicles. Do a Google search for this wheel balance system and find a dealer in your area with one, sure worth a try. We're going to miss the old S Blazers and trucks.
  • rambo41rambo41 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for the info and reply..That has been done here locally we have put on 4 perfect tires, pressure balanced them and still same results shakes at 100-110 speed....This is a serious prob with the 2005 Jimmy's and Blazer's there are 15 alone here in the city I live so I am sure there are alot more out there..I think we could be looking at a major recall by GMC if they don't figure this prob out real soon.... :sick:
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    "we have put on 4 perfect tires, pressure balanced them and still same results shakes at 100-110 speed"

    Have they verified front and rear driveline angles? Sounds like a classic driveshaft angle problem.
  • rambo41rambo41 Member Posts: 8
    That has been looked at also.... :confuse:
  • nfamousnfamous Member Posts: 3
    * poor idle
    * stalling, especially when starting after cold soak
    * hesitation, stumble and rough running during warm-up
    * tip-in hesitation or stumble
    * surge at cruise, even with warm engine
    * poor acceleration
    * low engine vacuum.

    These are the problems I am having.
    Replaced egr valve ........ DID NOT FIX PLEASE HELP
  • canadiangirlcanadiangirl Member Posts: 1
    Thank you for the information. My 95 Jimmy died 1.5yrs ago and I was so mad
    @ the dealership at the time for my 4 wheel drive problems that I wouldn't take it to them until now. Prior to it quitting completely I had it to the best mechanic in our town and he checked it out the fuel pump, filter and all was good. Unfortunately he does not have the diagnostic equip & he had suggested that I take it in as it seemed to be the injection assembly as all the same problems happened to his friends 95 Jimmy and the same dealership ended up changing the injection assembly. Well I finally take it in and tell them all the problems with the fowl smelling fuel, idling low, powering out, and that I believe they need to check the fuel pressure for problems and I take in your information sheet. They did a fuel system flush and fuel pressure ok but bleeds back thru pump cured self during test. $450 a 1 days driving & it died on my 17yr old, out of town. Not a happy parent. I wished my other mechanic had the proper equipment, he is the only one who is an honest mechanic around here towards male or female.
    Does this still sound like the injection assembly? Thanks for the help.
  • domnickdomnick Member Posts: 1
    I just recently bought a 1994 Chevy Blazer and I'm having fuel pump problems. I was driving the other day and the car just died out without warning. I got it home and about 7 hours later the car started again but died out again. When I turn the ignition the car won't turn over. I'm guessing it's fuel pump problems or fuel injectors. Can anyone please tell me some signs of a bad fuel pump or injectors?

    Please help.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check out Fuel Systems: Maintenance & Repair too.

    Steve, Host
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Does this still sound like the injection assembly?"

    Yep. It's not that difficult a job to remove the upper intake plenum and visually check out the lines from the central injection assembly to the 6 poppet valves at the cylinders. They've had their share of problems, and are replaced as an assembly. Usually when they go out they're replaced with the multiport injection system.
  • timbo9987timbo9987 Member Posts: 1
    I recently replaced the alternator on my 97 blazer. However, after I installed the new alternator, I realized I didn't remember exactly how all the wires connected back to it and I didn't have the foresight to make a diagram beforehand.

    I connected the wires with the clip back to the correct spot, as there is only one place for them. I connected the red wire from the battery to the screw on the back of the alternator. But I'm not sure where the black wire goes. Does this go on the same screw as the red wire? Thanks.
  • bodebode Member Posts: 1
    The last two days when I pulled into the parking lot at work, my 2000 Blazer changed from 2wd to 4wd-lo. I thought that I had accidently pused the 4wd button but the same thing happened again. While driving on the highway later I noticed that the 4WD-lo button began flashing while I was driving so I pulled over. As soon as I stopped moving the truck went inti 4wd-lo. I switched it back to 2wd and was able to get home. Any idea whats going on?
  • steve1103steve1103 Member Posts: 1
    Is there any way to get the ABS light out without a scan tool, have done a brake job and checked the fuses and wiring. :confuse:
  • pepe3pepe3 Member Posts: 1
    TRY CHANGING YOUR EXHAUST AND CONVERTER
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    No. Use an ABS capable scanner and post the code #'s.
  • tdbawstdbaws Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering if anyone could help me out with either a link to information or a step-by-step here on how to remove the stock front grill from my 1999 Chevy Blazer. Thanks.
  • linda959linda959 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 GMC Jimmy. The back glass is stuck shut and have tried everything to get it to open? Has anyone had problems with this? Any solutions?? Have not figured out how to take the back panel off completely to look inside to see if something came lose. But it is locked shut .. very tightly.
    Thanks
  • jeffhawnjeffhawn Member Posts: 5
    Check the fuse for the Horn. It should be number 2 on the fuse panel. All should be well if it was blown and you replace it. Please update us on your progress.
  • seamuszseamusz Member Posts: 3
    97 Jimmy... We've had intermittant problems with the wipers just up and deciding not to work for a couple of years. Lately they have completely pooped out. I figure this is a motor issue, but wanted to make sure before I blow a hundred bucks on it, anyone had a similiar issue, or think that it might be something else?

    Joe
  • kozman1kozman1 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1995 GMC Jimmy and about a month ago started having problems pumping gas into it. I have to "nurse" the handle of the pump for the gas to enter my truck. If I squeeze the handle to hard..the pump will kick off, as if the tank was full.

    Is there an vent to the gas tank that may be blocked? Any one else have this problem and found the solution? Please help...Thanks Frank
  • hsteacherhsteacher Member Posts: 2
    I had a similar problem with mine and it was the fuel pump in the tank. If you hit the tank it will start as long as you hit the right spot. After a while it will just quit working, but I don't suggest doing the replacement yourself because of a seal that will very easily break as mine did. Good luck.
  • hsteacherhsteacher Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem with my 99 so I took the brakes back and got a new set and the problem was fixed. I didn't believe it until the new brakes took care of the problem.
  • kpannkpann Member Posts: 13
    Can someone tell me where the Oxygen Sensor is located, I want to replace it myself.
  • nfamousnfamous Member Posts: 3
    ;)
    I have finally fixed the problem , so if anyone else has had the same symptoms my jimmy had , then listen up!!
    VERY CHEEP FIX ........
    all i needed to do was replace the
    MAP SENSOR
    COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
    and for good measure I replaced the
    Mass Air Flow Sensor
    You will probably expect to spend right around 200 bucks probably under
    The codes read as follows.......
    P0118 = Coolant temperature sensor
    P0102= Mass Air flow sensor , Maf Sensor, and or vacume hose off or cracked
    or the throtle body intake loose or cracked. I hope this helps some of you . i know i went through hell trying to figure this out . :D
  • tbobbtbobb Member Posts: 4
    My fuel pump just went again on my 1998 GMC Jimmy. I am not a custom to SUV, but is it normal for the fuel pump to last only 5 months. I just had one put in in March 2005. And i believe that I am leaking power steering fluid also and I am hearing a clicking sound when I am driving the truck. It sounds like it is coming from the front right tire, but it could be front he rear right side also. Any ideas on what that could be?

    Thanks
    Tasha
  • z73z73 Member Posts: 1
    I love my Chevy, but I'm about ready to give up and get rid of her cheap! I bought this truck about 6 months ago and I really think I could make a movie out of what's been going on with this thing.

    I will try to make this short and sweet. I read on a message board from about five years ago that someone had a 94 Blazer that was overheating only when they towed a boat (3500lbs), or in my case climb hills without the boat or towing the boat. I had the Blazer checked out by a mechanic before i bought it, and he said it needed some work, but that he could fix the problems. Before he could get his hands on it I drove it to friends and the thing only went about 60MPH the whole way there. Then when I was about 5 miles from the house it over heated badly. The next day it went into the shop and the mechanic disconnected a brown wire in the glove box (I think he called it a ESV connector, or something like that) and he told me by doing this it would reset the computer so that you could properly check the timing. After doing all that it ran 10 times better. He then proceeded to replace pretty much the whole top part of the engine.

    After doing all this and blowing my muffler literally to smitherines he put the valves back in place and sealed her up. Not three days later the engine started knocking and it has been this way now for 5 months. Before i fired him he told me that it was the valves needing to be adjusted. When he came to adjust them he told me that unfortunately it was the engine and that the previous owner had probably poured Lucas engine restorer into the block.

    Five months later and 3more pretty bad overheating the truck is still running. i have put two thermostats in this thing and I finally was told to take the thermostat out. I have 60wt motor oil in the block because i was told it was probably going to blow anyway and that this would prolong it. I drive it just once a week and when it gets hot i just stop and let it cool down, or shove a water hose in the radiator (which has been flushed twice). It doesn't leak water it circulates water and the fan works fine. The only thing it does is fill my coolant tank with boiling hot water!

    Please any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! i am sick of hearing different things from all my back yard mechanic friends. The dealership is screaming new engine. All this time the check engine light has never come on except for when it hits 260!! Please help hitch773@yahoo.com
  • jdegenhartjdegenhart Member Posts: 4
    1985 K-5 Blazer originally with a 305 – 4BBL Quadra-jet (17085226), Emissions UHK. I now transplanted a rebuilt 1971 350, using the starter, alt., intake manifold and carb. from the 305. Rotating assy, including new crank rods, pistons & rings, flexplate, and heads are from the 1971 350. I don’t have access to the ’71 intake and carb.

    Problem:
    Gas is making it to the filter inside the carb, but some solenoid or valve or something is stopping the fuel from going into the carb.

    Engine will fire with ether.

    No gas is spraying down the bores when moving the throttle cable.

    Obvious failures have been elimanated, i.e. new fuel filter, check fuel pump pressure, etc.

    Facts:
    There is a sensor with two wires located on the pass. side of the carb., toward the front of the truck, right above the fuel filter. One wire comes from the harness to one side of the sensor. This wire is hot with the key turned to “ON”. The wire comes from the other side of the sensor and dead ends into some connection on the manifold (maybe a water jacket tap, but I’m not sure.) There were a few ports on the manifold that were plugged off on the ’85 intake manifold when I got the engine back from the rebulider. They didn’t say if I needed to do anything on my end to make sure the engine would run, regarding bypassing sensors for the ECM.

    Questions:
    1. Could this sensor prevent fuel from entering the carb if there is a bad signal either from the ECM or the other in-line solenoids, valves or sensors?
    2. If it is possible, is there a way to either ground or provide 12VDC or a reference signal of 5VDC to the sensor to let the fuel pass?
    3. What kind of trouble did I get myself into by using an early ‘70’s block? Is there any other things that I need to do in order to “trick” the EMC, i.e. bypass the knock sensor, EGR, TPS, IAC, O2 or any other systems Chevy implemented?
  • 93jimmy93jimmy Member Posts: 1
    i got in my 1993 gmc jimmy 4 door and it started right up drove it for about 12 minutes came back home let it sit for about an hour went out it started back up agian fine drove for about 20 mins came back home let it sit for about 30 mins now it wont start. the battery light flahes. But this problem has happend before when that happend i let it sit for about 20 mins then it started back up i dont know whats wrong with it any ideas? i got the battery and alternator checked they say its fine.
  • kpannkpann Member Posts: 13
    Was changing plugs this weekend on my '98 4.3 and the middle plug on the drivers side is about 3/4" away from the steering arm, the socket will go on the plug but no room for the wrench, does anyone know if there is a special tool to get to it? Thanks
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Use a plug socket with a hex on the end, allows a wrench on the socket.
  • lavanahlavanah Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Blazer and my tranny died at 113, 000 miles. When they dropped it, they noted that the engine block was porous and had been leaking coolant, and the coolant crystalized. No crack. I have been having no problems with the engine overheating or the coolant being low. I was told to contact GM by the mechanic because he said it was cast improperly. It's been three days, and I wonder if they will do anything? Should I just keep driving it until it dies?
  • majv62majv62 Member Posts: 4
    We had a very similar issues on our 98'. We had the wiper motor replaced and was told, "it's typical on the Jimmy..." :lemon:

    Since the replacement life is so much better in the rain. :P
  • blazingblazing Member Posts: 1
    I've had nothing but trouble with my '97 Blazer "4wd" (Yeah right, like that'll ever work!), but my new current problem is that my headlights won't work. The daytime running lights work fine...but for nighttime driving, they suck! My headlights have been slowly not wanting to turn on for some time now, but usually do. Last night, they didn't...for good. I've pulled the switch out, cleaned it off, and it looks fine. I also checked the connection to the lights themselves, and they're fine as well. What else could it be?
  • burgleburgle Member Posts: 2
    Having a bit of a hard time finding whether or not this was stock. My wife purchased the vehicle from a Saturn dealer and thinks they may have added it. Problem is, it's on the left side of the steering wheel just under the dash, and she's now knocked it off with her knee. What i'd like to know is whether or not i can bypass this or does it need to be replaced. Any help with this issue would be greatly appreciated.
  • rambo41rambo41 Member Posts: 8
    I am looking for anyone else with a 2005 Jimmy or Blazer 2 DR 4X4 having this problem the total here in my city is getting larger..They are now up to 25 and probably more as I am sure there are alot of owners not even aware of this issue...GM keeps reverting to a tire issue it is not that, it is alot more serious than that and I think they are just looking for a quick fix for this problem hopefully the vehicle makes it past the 60,000 warranty then any problems after that is in the consumers hands not theirs....They have gone through 3 different sets of tires for mine, the shake and vibration is still there at 100-110 kmh...2 new parts have been order for the rearend and rear differential now due to the vibration...We need to band together and let them know this is a serious issue right now, they don't believe it is and that is not right.. :mad:
  • yadda320yadda320 Member Posts: 1
    I love my Jimmy and have been driving it for many years. It has typically run around 150-160 degrees at all times. Recently it overheated and I had the thermostat replaced. I asked the techs to give me their opinion on the water pump and they said they thought it was in good shape so they only replaced the thermostat. Since I've been driving it again, it has been running up to 210 and beyond on relatively short trips around town. Could this indeed be the water pump failing or is there something else I'm not thinking of that could cause this change in running temperature. I appreciate any insights. Thanks.
  • tnneedhelptnneedhelp Member Posts: 4
    my problem is that my keys are stuck and nothing works what was your first problem my is a 1999 gmc jimmy
  • tnneedhelptnneedhelp Member Posts: 4
    nothing will work, tried jumping battery, checked fuses, any ideas
  • rzepa1rzepa1 Member Posts: 55
    comes up after minute of so driving (99 Blazer). After the light is on,
    I can't switch to 4 WD mode... probably for a reason. Anyone has an
    idea what can it be ?

    Thanks
  • srh1155srh1155 Member Posts: 1
    I went to the local parts store and was able to purchase replacement handles for my 1999 blazer seats. They go over the part that is sticking out of the seat and they are attached by a screw. I believe AutoZone carries them also. The handles are made by a company by the the of "Help" It is a line of aftermarket parts. They seem to work well. The cost was under 29 bucks per side!! Good luck!
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