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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • ckk4ckk4 Member Posts: 13
    Yes, it's been four years since this post...I have the exact same problem as outlined in #216, but when I go to #60, #72 & #73 for the answers, it has nothing to do with the 97 Blazer "transmission slam" problem. Could you please clarify?

    Briefly, here's the problem again: Upon highway driving, the transmission slams from frist to second gears (sometimes second to third gear). If you turn the key off for a minute or two, the transmission "resets" itself and returns to a smooth shifting transmission.

    I've seen other posts with this same problem, and they state there are repair parts - anyone know what they are?
  • ckk4ckk4 Member Posts: 13
    Yes, it's been two years since this post...I have the exact same problem as outlined in #841.

    Briefly, here's the problem again: Upon highway driving, the transmission slams from frist to second gears (sometimes second to third gear). If you turn the key off for a minute or two, the transmission "resets" itself and returns to a smooth shifting transmission.

    Do you know what the part was, or have a P/N ?
  • palmoyaspalmoyas Member Posts: 14
    Looking for advice/experience on this one:
    Recently, my serpentine belt has been sqeaking and I have been smelling something burning when I immediately exit my truck. It comes from the engine area and goes away very soon after opening the hood. I noticed a green coolant-looking sludge on the pass. side of the AC compressor. It was mixed with a rubbery black "spackling".

    This past weekend when I turned on the defrost, it steamed up my windows (never defrosted) and smelled strongly like antifreeze. :cry:

    My truck does have heat and AC and runs at a normal operating temperature. The water pump/thermostat was replaced last year and the system flushed.

    Intake manifold gasket? Heater core? Both (NOOOO!)?

    All advice appreciated!
  • uncblaze82uncblaze82 Member Posts: 1
    I got in my blazer coming home today, and all of a sudden the locks began to LOCK and UNLOCK on their own?? Does anyone have any information that may help me? Is it a "jammed" RELAY switch?? Any info would be appreciated!!!
    Thanks
  • daveyboy43daveyboy43 Member Posts: 8
    I had the same problem with my 95 jimmy. After alot of checking and changing several parts that didn't work, I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and that corrected the problem.
    Make sure you change your oil after you replace the regulator as you probably have raw fuel mixing with your oil. Part cost 45 dollars at advance auto. Good luck to you.
  • daveyboy43daveyboy43 Member Posts: 8
    Replace the fuel pressure regulator. 45 dollars at advance auto parts. I had the same problem.Change the oil after you replace the regulator as you probably have raw fuel mixing with your oil. Good luck.
  • daveyboy43daveyboy43 Member Posts: 8
    How about some professional advice on my car's problem, not on how I typed my message,
    We can't all be rhodes scholars like you.
  • daveyboy43daveyboy43 Member Posts: 8
    Replace the fuel pressure regulator,45 dollars at advance auto parts and then change the oil as you have raw fuel mixing with the oil. You'll be good to go,I had the exact same problem and this fixed it completely. Good luck.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Common problem. It probably has a defective delay module in the wiper motor.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Lose the CAPS LOCKS and the attitude, repost the problem, and we can go from there.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    How about some professional advice on my car's problem...

    Generally, hosts aren't here to dispense professional advice. However, we are here to help you get the answers you need and I suggested means by which you could more readily accomplish that. If you have any further questions on hosting policy please take it to email.

    Meanwhile, the "Roads Scholars" who frequent these boards can be an awesome source of knowledge! Good luck. :)

    tidester, host
  • ckk4ckk4 Member Posts: 13
    I think that's it ! Two additional questions. What's the difference between the 77805-K part & the 77754-combo part offered by transmission specialty? They apparently are suppose to solve the P1870 code? Just want to make sure I'm getting the right one. IF the right one is the 77754-combo, you would happen to know what the final ream size is (for the new 77754)? I have access to almost every reamer size available.

    Thanks again for the advice!

    OOPS, one more. Believe it or not, I think my diffriential cover has cracked...yes cracked. No I didn't hit anything - I think it's protected by the spare. It looks like the metal has just corroded thus causing leakage. I didn't think this was possible. Is this common? And do you know where to pick up another cover?
  • rottylover2rottylover2 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 1999 Blazer. The ABS light, Fuel Light, Battery Light were all lit up, but the fuel gauge went to zero and the oil gauge went to zero). GM dealership said it was the cluster because the drive indicator light would also go off (suppose to be a GM bulletin). They removed the cluster and sent off for repair. Put back in the truck and it was still doing it. Cluster has been sent off two more time and been returned with "No Problem Found." They check the ground wire but said that was secure. Were you able to find out what was wrong with your Jimmy?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The 77805-K kit addresses a worn TCC apply valve bore in the pump, requires trans & pump removal and is usually not the cause.

    The 77754 kit adresses a worn TCC regulator valve bore in the valve body, and is more often the culprit. Reamer size and specific kit # depends on whether the valve body is original or a GM reman.

    I don't have specific reamer sizes for any of the applications, suggest you prowl Sonnax's site or talk to your local independent trans shop.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    " I think my diffriential cover has cracked"

    Corrosion forms and migrates under the sealing surface, causing the leak. Removal of the cover and a tube of high quality silicone sealer usually fixes it.
  • nursetnurset Member Posts: 1
    i'm new to the site so please forgive mistakes if I make them. I have a 1999 Blazer, while driving down the road -all the gauges lit up an went crazy then it died & would not start - brain box hot enough to fry eggs - towed home & replaced brain now it will turn over but will not stay started????? Any suggestions? Please help.
  • rsr79rsr79 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 GMC Jimmy with the W code Vortex. It has 148,000 miles. It has ran perfect until last week, It started and shut off when I try to accelerate. Now when the engine is up to operating temp if you move the throttle it shuts off. I have replace the fuel pump, map sensor, the throttle sensor checks good. If you pour a little gas in the throttle body it starts and runs for a few minutes. Sometimes it will continue to run until you accelerate. Spark stays good the entire time, fuel pressure stays 60-50 at idle.
    Any help would be great. thanks Randy
  • 543jared543jared Member Posts: 1
    ive got a 94 ss pickup same problem last year throttle position sensor took care of it but engine light was on not sure if yours is good luck!
  • flexyflexy Member Posts: 5
    hello gmgfirl and rambo!

    Well I had the district service manager dealer service manager and the service rep all out for a drive at the same time. The DSM agreed my jimmy's vibration was excessive but said there is no fix. He offered me an additional $1000.00 with "the trade inn value" of my jimmy for a canyon. I freaked!!!!!! they wanted me to trade my Jimmy inn only to get into bed with them for a truck that is almost twice as much? to hell with that! #1 I would not except anything but a full refund. #2 They didn't have any Toyota's on the lot!
    Well they pretty muched ****ed me over told me that that was the best they could offer. I declined the offer and am still driving the "Jimmy" (great name for it eh). But I did manage to get an extended warranty of 5yrs 100,000 km. If you want to band together to get it fixed i'm all for it. rambo has my email.
    Good Luck
    FLEXY
  • sync15csync15c Member Posts: 7
    Hi alcan and all
    Sorry i am having a delay to your question, last week was crazy for me inspecting and registering this 95 jimmy. Anyway when my mechanic first checked out the codes with his "old" computer, he came up with P0441. He didn't exactly know what that was, thought is was related to the bad gas somehow---he suggested that I put octane booster in it to clean out particles or water. (?which i did?) Then i found out through caylorray that the code(P0441) was the evap. system, incorrect purge flow. The Jimmy passed NYS inspection last week, The service light is still on, and I had to go out of town for business this week, so had to re schedule another mechanic until monday, 10/17. sorry about the confusion.
    p.s.---- the octane booster did seem to give the jimmy a little more boost, but SES still on.
  • biotech2biotech2 Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought this Blazer , it has 30k miles on it.It has this p0300 code. I,ve checked the plugs , wires, new cap and rotor. Took it to the dealer, they couldn't find the solution. It sends the code under a load, say 25 mph and intermit at that.It has a 4.3L and Auto Trans. Please help.
  • jomammajomamma Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Jimmy with a 4.3 v6. just started intermittantly stalling. Dummy lights all come on and can usually be restarted after coming to a stop. I have checked the wires from the coil to the distributor as suggested by others for arcing, but wires are well insulated away from heater hoses. another sugestion was to replace the ignition switch, would that be the ignition module or the key tumbler on the steering column???? Anyone know?
  • sync15csync15c Member Posts: 7
    Hi all
    daveyboy--if you are still out there-- did you have a any codes in the P0441 vicinity when you changed the fuel pressure regulator (was SES light on?) or is it just a good idea to change it for fuel economy and better running engine?(my 95 jimmy does run a little rough at times) I am going to mechanic on monday, so it would be a big help to know. Also, is it a big job for the mechanic? or could i maybe do it myself? Hope everything went ok with your car. maybe you could share with all of us here about what happened. is your service light still on? any further advice you or anyone could give regarding the fuel regulator would be greatly appreciated. Hope everyone and everyone's vehicle is well. thanks
  • helpmeplzhelpmeplz Member Posts: 1
    Hey i was just wondering if anyone was able to help you guys out, i am having the same problem with a 97 blazer and i need to know what it is so that i can get it fixed... my car wont even start now.
  • seatortoiseseatortoise Member Posts: 1
    05 blazer 4.3. 5 speed. when i let go of the gas the truck will maintain speed until it hit down to about 2k rpm. then it feels like a brake comes on to slow vehicle. this only happens at a certain rpm. it acts normal at other speeds. thank you.
  • sf05sf05 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the exact same problem with a 2001 Jimmy. It is to the point where gas will start to overflow from the tank if I try to force it in to the tank. It's acting as if the tank is full. I have the truck at a shop right now. They are going to drop the tank and take a look at it, since they know it is not a problem with the neck. They have never seen anything like this.

    Does anyone have any information on what this is / how to fix?

    Thanks
  • loaf47loaf47 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 jimmy that makes a loud whining/humming noise in 2wd and then goes away when put in 4wd hi. I have had a lot of work to the front end with no resolve. Can someone tell me exactly what is going on? Thanks.
  • 99steve99steve Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever get this resolved?? I have the ticking noise... OH MY GOD - it drives you crazy!!!

    HELP..........

    sj :cry:
  • jmurphy79jmurphy79 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1995 4WD balzer and was wondering what type of oil is required for it? when i hda it changed the first time they put 20w50 in it. is that the right kind?
  • seven7seven7 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 97 Blazer with a broken fuel sensor, the needle stayed on empty even when it was full. This problem was fixed by the dealership... they had to replace the entire fuel system.

    Now 5 days later the "Service Engine Soon" light has come on. Is this related to fuel sensor replacement?
  • khana04khana04 Member Posts: 1
    I want to replace wiper motor on my 98 chevy blazer , not sure where exatly it is located under the hood , if any one give me some idea and hints
    Thanks!!!!
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    GM S-Series Pick-ups and SUV's 1994-1999 Repair Guide
    Windshield Wiper Motor

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Remove the wiper arms from the linkage so the cowl may be removed.
    3. Remove the cowl vent grille and screen. On some vehicles, the windshield washer hose may be connected to a hard plastic fitting located under the cowl grille. If the hose connection is very tight it may make removing the cowl grille difficult. Take your time if difficulty is encountered. If possible, reach underneath the grille to disconnect the hose from the fitting.
    4. Remove the wiper transmission from the wiper motor drive link using J-39232 or an equivalent tool.
    5. Unplug the wiring from the wiper motor.
    6. Remove the wiper motor-to-cowl screws. Carefully rotate the motor and guide the drive link from the hole in the cowl, then remove the motor from the vehicle.

    To install:
    7. Guide the motor drive link through the hole in the cowl, then install the motor and secure using the retainers.
    8. Install the drive link socket onto the crank arm ball using J-39529 or an equivalent tool. The wiper transmission assembly must be installed to the crank arm PAST the 2nd detent so that the seal is compressed to a maximum height of 1 in. (25.5mm)
    9. Attach the wiring to the wiper motor.
    10. Install the cowl vent grille and screen. On vehicles equipped with a plastic fitting attached to the cowl grille, the washer hose should be connected as the grille is positioned. Make sure the hose is not pinched or damaged as the grille is fastened.
    11. Install the wiper arm and blade assemblies to the transmission linkage.
    12. Connect the negative battery cable and verify proper operation.

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8018bf26.gif
  • gmgirlgmgirl Member Posts: 3
    flexy,

    I was wondering how you got the extened war? And did you have to pay for it? I tried fighting to get one with gm head office and they will not even give me a discount on one. If you could help me out that would great
  • henryg1henryg1 Member Posts: 3
    2000 blazer same problem, sounds like turn signal is on, but it is not.
    I changed the flasher located behind the glove box, problem stoped for a week, now it is back.
  • henryg1henryg1 Member Posts: 3
    Just had transmission rebuilt about 3000 mi ago, it will act up after about 20 min driving it feels like TCC is disengaging and ingaging at a rapid pace, you can actually see the tach jumping about a 100 RPM.
    Transmission shop checked it out and said it had an engine miss, and maybe it was
    the cap and rotor, I changed that, but no help, I am now going to replace the coil and ignition module mounted on intake, fortunately I have an extra one, so I will see if that cures it.

    anybody got an idea, you think Im going in the right direction?

    It seems strange that you can only feel the miss when it is in lockup between 42-54 MPH, I respect the Tran shops diagnosis, I dont think he is giving me runaround, if the coil dont fix it , then I will change the plugs, it has 52000 mi. on it.
    Thanks in advance for any help. Henry
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Start with plugs and wires. Use AC Delco only.
  • pjw417pjw417 Member Posts: 1
    98 4x4 Blazer with 60,000 miles makes a popping noise in the front when you make a right turn. Nothing happens when turning left. Can anyone tell me what might be wrong? I found a recall on the Lower control arm says it detaches. Could this possibly be the problem. Thanks
  • loaf47loaf47 Member Posts: 2
    I was just wondering if you ever figured out the driveline noise cause. I have been having a similar problem without any resolve from mechanic shops. My jimmy has a loud howling noise in 2wd but goes away once shifted into 4wd. Any ideas?
  • henryg1henryg1 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks alcan
    plugs and wires are my next move, the cap/rotor, and coil/module didn't fix it .
    I will let the fourm know how this turns out. Henry
  • 98blazer198blazer1 Member Posts: 2
    My stereo does not light up any more, some of the lights do, but the numbers and the cd slot light no longer come on, is there a replacement bulb, or light bar? How difficult is it to dismantle the dash and stereo?
  • rdy4trvlrdy4trvl Member Posts: 2
    Over the last few months a noise has increased in volume. I think it comes from the transmission and is noticeable above 20 MPH. It sounds something like a whining or like you’re running over rumble strips found on the side of the highway. If it put it in neutral at any speed, nothing changes….and have noticed no problems when the vehicle shifts gears….basically everything works great and I’m still getting around 20 MPG. One odd item – occasionally if I hit a bump in the road, the noise stops very briefly.

    Other info on the Jimmy – 75k miles, 2 wheel drive, 4 door, used for towing only once from IL to FL.

    Any ideas what may be wrong?
  • sockpuppet1969sockpuppet1969 Member Posts: 308
    I had the same problem on my '98 Blazer. Replaced the multifunction (a.k.a. combination) switch and it fixed it.
  • sockpuppet1969sockpuppet1969 Member Posts: 308
    Kevin - I don't know if you fixed your wiper problem yet but it is easy and cheap to do (~$55). You need to replace the wiper control module (circuit board attached to the wiper motor) - part number is GM#12463090. Just a couple of screws and about 10 minutes of your time. (The problem is not the motor itself.)
  • shilohillshilohill Member Posts: 1
    Did you get any answers?I have 97 blazer ,will not engage 4wheel drive buttons flash but no engagement of front wheels.
  • ultragbultragb Member Posts: 2
    The speedometer quit working. I was told that it had to be the speed sensor. I replaced that and it was not the problem. Short of trying to trace the wires to the back of the speedometer of which you can't get out unless you tare the dash apart, Has anyone else had the problem and what was the cure. Everything else works on the dash, but the speedometer and odometer. Thanks

    Guy
  • ckk4ckk4 Member Posts: 13
    Anybody know the recommended filling capacity of the 97 Blazer differential (rear)?

    Thanks!
  • bettbett Member Posts: 1
    Ever get this resolved? I see someone suggested changing out the combination signal switch? Mine just started.
  • steve96steve96 Member Posts: 7
    I'm new to this Forum so please excuse any posting errors.
    You are a victim of the dreaded DexCool curse. I have had exactly the same problem with my '96 Blazer and went through two heater cores and an expensive six hour flush of the cooling system before I said "enough" and went to a local rad shop instead of the dealer. They knew right away what the problem was, back-flushed a load of crud from the system and put in the regular green ethylene glycol coolant. Not a problem in over a year. Soon after the rushing water sound started (it's water trapped in the core) I lost virtually all heat and in Ottawa, Ontario you sure need heat in winter. That will be your next symptom. As I said I'm new to this Forum and am shocked at the identical problems that many of us appear to have. My early '96 seems to be the cauldron in which the all the curses were brewed.
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