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Comments
.-Illumination of the SECURITY LIGHT while driving (not a problem itself, but a warning)
.-Many times, after starting the engine, it died, followed by the SECURITY LIGHT blinking. Any other subsequent start attempts gave the same results. But, after waiting for approximately 10 minutes, everything worked fine, as if nothing had happened (this behavior fits exactly for the PASSLOCK system protection: engine starts, but fuel feed is interrupted, then after 10 minutes normal operation is restored)
After some research, I’ve found that the probable cause is that the system fails to recognize the ignition key as a valid one. After reading many possible procedures, I’ve made this recipe, AND IT WORKED PERFECTLY FOR MY BLAZER, for more than a week, so far. And I think it’s enough time, the problem was present everyday, to consider it as a successful solution. Hope it will work fine as it did to me:
1.- Disconnect the battery for 15 minutes
2.- Reconnect the battery, insert the key in the ignition switch, and turn it to the “RUN” position (Don’t start the engine, move it just to where the “warning” lights turn on) AND LEAVE IT UNDISTURBED FOR 15 MINS
3.- Turn the ignition Off, remove the key, and wait for another 15 minutes before inserting it again
After doing this simple and costless procedure the problem disappeared, I hope that forever.
I would appreciate that, if you use this method, whether it works or not, please write me a line or two with your comments, so I can evaluate the reliability of this “recipe” and make it available for others.
Carlos Romero
Caracas, Venezuela
Just thoguht of something else. You know when you turn the key and the inst panel light come on, and you can hear the fule pump kicking on? Obviously the times when I tried to start it, the insp panel light were not illuminating and the fuel pump did not kick on, thus not starting. But the thing that puzzles me is that it quit while I was driving it.
Misfire multi cylinder
Fuel Trim bank 1
Fuel Trim bank 2
Did you ever get your problem figured out? I thought about fuel injectors but am not too sure if that's the problem.
Replaced the following items but didn't fix anything:
Spark plugs
Spark plug wire
rotor
cap
camshaft sensor
ignition coil
coolant temp sensor
throttle position sensor
Have you done any more part replacements? If so, what are they? I'm intersted in finding a solution and the more we figure it out the closer we can get to the culprit.
I'd appreciate your response.
Thanks a bunch!!!! And I'm pissed off at my Blazer cuz this is my second SUV I've owned. My first one, '89 Ford Bronco II was a nightmare. May not ever buy another SUV again.
--Ralph
I'm having same problem right now. EXACT same codes.......did you ever get it fixed or figured out?
--Ralph
1) hard to start if I turned the key and hold it but if I turned the key quickly in like three short bursts then it starts up fine.
2) rough idle
3) sometimes don't accelerate smoothly from stop and had to mess with the gas pedal to get it going.
4) sometimes misfire at 55mph
5) excess gas smell
6) service engine lights on sometimes it goes away
7) got the misfire P0300 code (multi-cylinders)
8) Cyl 2 and 3 are misfiring very high
9) also got Fuel Trim codes Bank 1 and Bank 2 which I think are P0171 and P0172.
Any suggestions? It got to be one part that is causing all of this. I'm at a dead-end. Thought I would replace fuel injectors but after reading the forums, it doesn't seem that it's the problem. And plus I haven't see any solutions anywhere. Nobody seems to really have any solutions.
I noticed you've been tracking this forum for quite some time so I thought you might know something that I don't know.
Any help would be kindly appreciated.
Once I had the tailgate opened, I removed the panel and saw the problem. In order to replace the plastic endpiece to the latch rod, I just took the old plastic endpiece off and removed the motor. I worked on the rod that comes out of the motor and took a foot long wire and bent it in half to double strength it. Then I made a hook out of it to attach to the latch. It worked. Never had a problem since then.
It's been 3 or 4 months ago when I done this so my memory isn't that great but at least I gave you some general idea. When I get a chance, I'll pop my panel off and take some pictures of it and could e-mail it to you. You can e-mail it to me as my address is in my profile.
Anyone have any solutions to this problem? Please let me know before I go blow $$$$ at a garage....
Thanks, JC
I cannot find this part or a part number anywhere, the closest thing I could find online was an "oil cooler pipe" for a 1996 Jimmy which from what I can tell looks like the part I need. The only one I find anywhere is Dorman p/n 625103 or similar from differn't manufacturers.
Can any one point me in the right direction?
I'm pasting my posts from another forum so I can share them with you. There are two posts. LONG ONES but well worth the readings.
POST #1
==========================================================
I've got a good challenge for you if you're up for it and see if you can help me figure out the root case of my problem without causing me to drain my bank account. If you do have the answer, I would be forever grateful and will show my appreciation accordingly.
I have been sitting here looking through another forum and this forum and am no closer to finding my answer. I decided to stop trying to second guess and chase down a problem in the dark and draining my bank account.
I've noticed a lot of people had similar problems to mine but no true solution.
I have a '96 4x4 4-doors BLAZER with CSFI and Eng Code W, of course 4.3L Vortec, what else would it be???
I've decided to stop wasting time pouring through the forums with no answers in sight. I probably could spend a whole week and not find any answer. I mean, I figured that's what this forum is for, to seek help. Plus I figured that since it's a 1996 truck and now this is Year 2005, I would think that in those 9 years that has passed, SOMEBODY would have the answer which is why I'm here. I'd really appreciate the answer because I want to get my truck fixed ASAP so I can get through this winter season.
Here's the symptoms I'm currently experiencing:
1) hard to start if I turned the key and hold it but if I turned the keyquickly in like three short bursts then it starts up fine.
2) random erratic idle
3) sometimes don't accelerate smoothly from stop and had to mess with the gas pedal to get it going.
4) sometimes misfire at 55mph
5) service engine lights on sometimes it goes away
6) got the misfire P0300 code (multi-cylinders)
7) Cyl 2 and 3 are misfiring very high
8) excess gas smell (possibly running rich due to #2 and #3 misfiring and possibly running lean, causing other four cylinders to run rich)
9) also got Fuel Trim codes Bank 1 and Bank 2 which I think are P0171 and P0172.
Here's the list of parts that I've replaced but no success in solving the problem. In fact, they are the common parts being replaced by other Blazer owners while trying to track down the root cause without success. I'm trying to go through process of elimination to further narrow down to the root cause.
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Throttle Position Sensor
Ignition Coil
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
Rotor
Cap
Camshaft Sensor
Fuel Pressure Regulator (my old one was faulty cuz the diagphram ring around was ripped, like a blown speaker).
My problem is exact the same as DANNK's problem but the postings has stopped back in Feb 2005 and I was hoping that he found a solution so I'm not sure what's up with that.
He replaced the following items which didn't solve his problem:
Replaced fuel filter (6 months ago) - seperate issue
Replaced fuel pump (5.5 months ago) - seperate issue
replaced plugs and wires (3 months ago)
replaced distributor cap and rotor (2.5 months ago)
replaced ignition coil pack (2 months ago)
replaced ENTIRE fuel injection system (2 weeks ago) ($350!!!) (not easy)
My fuel pressure is within spec.
Key on, 60 psi pressure held steady
Engine running approx 56 psi. pressure held steady when idling.
Fuel pressure held steady after shutdown.
Therefore, that rules out fuel filter.
Seafoam cleaner does nothing for me. It was recommended by my mechanic but he's full of sh*t.
Any suggestions? It got to be ONE SINGLE PART that is causing all of this. I'm at a dead-end. Thought I would replace fuel injectors but after reading the forums, it doesn't seem that it's the problem. And plus I haven't see any solutions anywhere. Nobody seems to really have any solutions.
I've seen that EGR replacement has fixed it but I've also seen that it was only temporary and problem came back.
I've seen Crankshaft Sensor replacement has solved the problem but not always.
Gas stations is not relevant since it has nothing to do with gas in my case. I've been using 87 octane which is what the manual recommended anyway.
What about the Catalytic Converter being bad? Any way I can tell if it's bad or not?
It could be MAP sensor, it could be MAF sensor, it could be Idle Air Valve assembly, it could be Top Dead Center sensor located on tranny's bellhousing. Hell there's too many possibilities and I don't want to waste money on those if it turns out NOT to be the culprit.
My hunch is telling me that it's probably more likely a combination of three things, maybe four........ Crankshaft Sensor, EGR valve, Catalytic Converter (due to bad fuel regulator which is replaced), and MAP sensor. Hell if I know.
That's why I need your help. I'm hoping that there is actually someone out there WITH THE SAME PROBLEM as mine and have FIGURED OUT THE ANSWER to the problem would respond to me so I can get over with my ordeal.
I don't want any second guessing or whatsoever, if you KNOW FOR SURE that you got the answer, please do share with me. If you are not SURE then I'm willing to listen to your suggestion because I'm at my wit's end.
Thank you very much.
POST #2
==========================================================
Here's my latest update on my '96 Blazer problem.
Folks.....please forgive me if this is rather long message but I want this to be informative and share my experience as well as my perspective and opinions. However, I really appreciate all of your comments that you have provided to me. Thank you for taking the time to do that.
I felt it would be unfair to those who may join this forum or continue to experience same problem as mine by not sharing my experience with everyone.
I'm not saying that the way I fixed my problem will work for everyone. But at least I I think I would probably be safe to say at least try this approach first as the best starting point instead of wasting your money on those other unnecessary parts like everyone and I did when you might want to try the ones I've done first before trying the rest of the parts.
I just want to spare everyone the financial and emotional heartaches that I had to suffer and others before me as well and to spare those from getting ripped off by dishonest mechanics. There are such honest mechanics out there and a big salute go to them for conducting honest business.
If someone disagree with me with anything I said below or wish to add additional information, I welcome your reply. I'd like this to be educational for other unfortunate vehicle owners with same situation since the Big Three are so incredibly unreliable in help their customers out. I'd like for this to be the first stop before blowing all kind of money on various parts that I mentioned in my first post.
One last thing..... for those who are new to this and are experiencing same problem.....please read my first post above.
Here we go..
DORMAN COOLER TUBE part# 625-100 3 MO warranty for $25.99.
From what I've read, there seems to be a common problem with the crimping area going bad. I've seen recommendation to replace with a regular hose and clamps. I've had some experience with other certain crimped hoses coming apart at the crimp area in my other cars and I just cut the hose near the crimp, used Dremel with cutting wheel to cut the aluminum pipe to remove the crimped part off and just slided the hose on the pipe and put clamp on it and it worked for me. That's my poor man's method. You might want to flare the pipe a bit and remove any burrings before reattaching the hose. The flare will provide a better seal inside the host to prevent any leakage. Good luck!!!
--Ralph
Or I may try what you suggested, but the way I feel about it I may as well buy a new part if I'm going to be laying under my truck in 20 degree weather. If it were warmer out that would be another story.
Andy
Here's a link to what you might need:
AutoZone link to front wheel bearing/hub assembly
Good Luck,
Matt
Thanks,
Matt
Matt
:lemon:
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8012b28f.gif
OK, I've got the codes for my 97 Blazer, but I need advice on what to do/how to fix. Thanks - Dave
P0146 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
Part numbers & location of parts would be helpful as well. Thanks again.
tidester, host
monkeyhead, "Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy: Problems & Solutions" #649, 14 Feb 2003 10:33 pm
Try a Search This Discussion for sensor; maybe some of those posts will help while waiting for responses.
Steve, Host