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Comments
Kevin
Kevin
After you get it back buy a new Stant cap. Make sure the dealer is installing a new thermostat too (only adds a few $ when they do the intake).
Kevin
it comes out easy if your bumper is not too banged up.
the bottom of the grill just sits on two plastic pins.
the side marker lights just come out with it.
This is the 2nd engine that i rebuilt and put in it. The engine has about 100,000 miles on it before i put all new main and piston rod bearings in it. Compression seems good all around.
3rd trans that I rebuilt and put it in just recently.
The engine starts great and idles good 500 rpm.
I can rev it up to over 3000 rpm no problem.
There is a slight knock which i believe is from a wrist pin.
There is also a strong engine vibration at low rpms.
i replaced the fuel pressure regulator not to long ago when it was fuel dumping.
Fuel pressure is 70 psi, also has a brand new fuel pump and sender. i have a fuel psi gauge on the dash now.
Check engine light is not on, so there are no codes that i know of.
i used to have trouble with the EGR valve and i got codes from that all the time, but i took it off cleaned it up and it has been trouble free with the EGR valve.
As far as i know the Ignition module is good but it is so hard to test it when it is on the bottom of the distributor jammed against the fire wall.
The upper intake gasket is good and bolts are tight.
I am thinking maybe it is leaking around the poppet nozzles; they don't seem to fit very tight. I am just not ready to buy a 300$-500$ spider unless that is the problem.
If a new spider would fix the problem that would be great because I spent that much in gas over the past couple of weeks.
When the engine heats up everything is a little better but not much.
Does a spider assembly ever last over 200,000 miles even after the fuel pressure regulator is replaced on it?
Kevin
As to the clunk, there is a bulletin on a possible cause and its adding a cone shaped washer to each hood hinge bolt:
CONDITION
SOME OWNERS MAY COMMENT OF A RATTLE EMANATING FROM THE HOOD HINGE AREA OR THE FRONT CORNER OF THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THIS NOISE MAY OFTEN BE MISTAKEN FOR A LOOSE SHOCK ABSORBER. THE RATTLE CAN BE HEARD OVER ROUGH ROAD INPUTS AND IS MOST PROMINENT OVER THOSE THAT CREATE SIDE-TO-SIDE VEHICLE MOTION.
CAUSE:
THESE VEHICLES MAY HAVE EXCESSIVE CLEARANCE AT THE HINGE ATTACHING BOLT. THIS ALLOWS THE HOOD HINGE TO MAKE METAL TO METAL CONTACT WITH THE HOOD HINGE BRACKET WHICH PRODUCES A RATTLING NOISE.
So GM part # 12383460 you need 2 of them. Test the Blazer first by opening hood, inserting a small hand towel or rag inbetween the fender and hood on eackh side, close and test drive - noise gone add washers! This is one possible and you have done many others but even after I did all these once in a while I get a small clunk. I even greased the torsion bars and mounts. GMs are sloppy and even a loose fender bolt will cause this. If you have a large clunk I also had a cracked frame mount where the lower a-arm bolted up but mine was drivers side -had to weld.
1. Did you change the nut kit when you did the regulator (its really the fuel lines to the reg inside)and that may be dumping fuel in the motor.
2. The MAP sensor converts pressure to a voltage to the computer for the fuel profile and that may be bad. Sensor output voltage should be in the range 0.5 to 4.5 volts.
3. Usually a faulty ign module gets worst when but the grease wears out on older models causing run problems.
4. Is the vibration counter shaft and timing chain all set correctly or is it slopply and off a few teeth. Major internal problems may effect the higher rpm ops too as you know.
Thank you!
Kevin
Kevin
First question is do you have 4Hi cause the xfer case only activates the encoder motor to engage 4Lo. There is a sensor switch on the front axle that tells the TCCM the axle is coupled by the actuator. There is another sensor switch on top of the xfer case that tells TCCM the encoder motor has engaged 4Lo. Does the selector switch light stop blinking when you select 4Hi or 4Lo? Do you have 4 buttons and Autotrac cause this adds new issues? I don't have a wiring diagram of this circuit, sorry. Some have reported cut/broken wires above the xfer case causing the encoder motor not working so look/feel up there in the messy bundle GM shoved in.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Please any suggestions on what needs to be done next.
We also have that damn clicking blinker. Apparently my model is not under recall, since it was made on a Tuesday after 3pm.....Mine now just comes and goes, so we turn up the radio. I'll wait them out, they might recall mine sometime and fix it for free!
As for the coolant - all 4.3 motors get the leaking lower intake manifold gasket and if you don't fix it you will destroy your engine at some point - water gets in the valley and lifer rattle starts, then bearings can get messed up, etc. About $500-600 at dealer or 5-8 hours to DIY and many posts can be found to help with a good search.
Do i need to replace the ignition switch and the key tumbler? Im also having issues with the lights...the parking lights come on when i start the car evne with the switch turned off.....I called autozone...trying to get into the zone(not happening)...i asked for the switch and tumbler....they said that it didnt specify a engine size....so im wondering if my steering column did come out of a different size engine....would it make a difference?
and there are no other codes other than the one for the vehicle speed sensor....but like i said....i replaced it and there is no difference.
thanks for your reply repairdog....im stuck and ran out of luck!
For the past year or so, after about every two weeks of driving, the coolant tank will be empty and the temp gauge will start to rise until I put more coolant in. I have had the problem "fixed" twice, one of those times at a GM dealer. I've also had a pressure test and it revealed that I don't have a leak.. but where does my coolant go? I can often smell what I assume is burned DexCool when I get out of the car after driving.
Since it was last "fixed", I hear a gurgling behind the dash, but was told by the mechanic that it was normal. Often, when I start up the car, I will hear a sound similar to a fan blade striking something as it rotates. This lasts for 30 seconds usually.
A couple of days ago, my mom was driving the car when, after about five minutes of driving, there was knocking and banging under the hood. She was on the interstate and got off after about a mile. A person helping her said there was very little oil and it was sludge. The dealer said I have a thrown rod and need a new engine.
I was about 1k miles past my scheduled 3k mile oil change, but have been consistent with keeping it changed in the past, and don't understand why there would be so little oil and so much sludge now.
Has anyone had similar problems? Anyone know what would cause these problems, and if the apparent coolant leak has anything to do with the engine problem? They are sending someone to take a look at the engine and determine whether it will be covered under warranty, and I want to be prepared in case they say it is my fault. Thanks for any input.
The coolant was going somewhere and yes it was leaking out of the cooling system to somewhere or the level would not have dropped. Where is the question, so here I go:
1. Lower intake gasket - most common area on 4.3 engines and the Dex cool usually leaks out the front or back seal between the intake and block, often seeping into the engine in the valley and lifters. Or runs out the top between the intake and valve covers then down the block to drip on the ground (orange color). Smell was when it dripped on exhaust.
2. Head gasket and leaked into a cylinder then down into the bearings and oil - usually due to overheating so from the noise was the radiator hit by the fan (a hole/cut/fan marks on engine side, or a leak in any other part of rad), just rad clogged because never flushed (5yr/100k on Dex cool is NOT true - but causes cooling system sludge), bad fan clutch so not spinning, or water pump.
3. Water pump leaking, see water dripping out small weep holes on the body by the front bearings and often hear some grating noise.
4. Heater core - clogged was the gurgling noise and NO that is not normal but means restricted water flow and it may have leaked. In fact, that smell, like burned maple syrup ie Dex cool, may have been from that. Often a small hole is blown and it reseals over and over but that smell is always around.
5. Hoses may have a leak - upper and lower rad, believe 2 small bypass by water pump, and 2 heater hoses.
6.Block freeze plug rusted out - on side of engine block pressed in round plugs - not common on Blazer this new, mostly over 10 years old.
So, if a GM dealer did examine the Blazer and found nothing wrong but you told them coolant was dropping, they should have looked at all these and found one as the cause (think I covered them all - oh a hole in the reservior to be complete). With a new engine, you will need a heater core that requires the dash out so $500 plus, and also a new water pump (insist at this mileage), and have the fan clutch checked. Remember the dealer may defer to the Zone rep and it could take several days. Lawyers seldom help but small claims you can pull alot of the dealer crew in all day - ha ha and costs you little (lost work time for them). This is only my opinion on how to approach the problem. Maintain your cool in the talks and you will win.
Good luck and let us know the outcome.