Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
thanks,
Clay
Clay
Clay
Does anyone know where to look? Battery has not been checked out, terminals are clean, (could get new ones), alt looks brand spanking new but don;t know if it's as new as it looks.
I was thinking it may be ECM or Oil pressure switch ? Has anyone else encountered this? Also where isthe oil pressure switch located ?
Thanks
Carl
Also i got a new problem :surprise: It's dipped below -27 here and snowed only 15 centimeters so far. But sense it has i've noticed my gas petal is vibrating. What might be something to look at to solve this one? I cleaned all the snow from in the wheel wells by just parking her under doors for a few hours and letting all the snow melt.
Thanks for your time
Chris in s'toon
So, is the vehicle operating temp at 195F or normal. Have you added gas line antifreeze or dry gas? Water in the gas will raise hell at those temps - been there and had a frozen line before.
I think yeah i'll try out some gasline antifreeze, nice idea, i never would have thought of that until later on down the road. Trucks running at normal temp though.
Thanks alot
Chris
Transmission started slipping, do not know why. Runs about 500 extra rpm before shifting, (you can also hear the extra 500 rpm), and now runs 500 extra rpm in overdrive compared with previous speed and rpm. Same with other gears. Problem gets worse the longer the Blazer is driven. Ok when cold. Engine also stalled for the first time in a while, even in cool weather. Engine temp. gauge shows normal, however, gauge does strange things when key is turned off. No sign of overheating. Fluid levels are normal, but do not know last time transmission fluid and filter changed.
I am starting to think both are tied to the PCM. Have you heard of this? I hope so, I hate gas tanks, transmission fluid, exhaust and bell housing bolts. I also have intermittent problems with the fuel fill, but I can not find the posting numbers. Do you know which thread? Thanks again.
As for fuel fill they all burp when near full and if you are in a state with the overflow nozzle like CA they always are a pain. There is a ball in there thats to prevent siphoning and over filling. And when running, fuel always flows to the injector spider on the engine and then excess return flows based on use and pressure (see the 2 metal lines from the rear of the engine to the spider under the plastic housing - that valve on it is the pressure test port also).
Finally check the vac lines under hood engine to drivers side for rot and if 4wd to the firewall mounted solenoid - if bad replace most 5/32 and larger is 7/32".
I'm looking at buying a 94 Blazer (small size) but it has a problem. Every couple a days it blows the 20a fuse that controlls the guages, it also stops charging and gets stuck in 3rd gear. Its a 4.3 Vortex with 97k miles on it. Is this a common thing or will I have to go dash diving for a shafed wire. When I was test driving it, it blew when I hit a bump. Any ideas would be great.
Tks
Gabe
P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off
P1870 TCC Stuck Off 2 each
Transmission Component Slipping
PO128 Coolant temp below thermostat regulating temp, 2 each
ECT Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature(GM)
Coolant Thermostat Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature
Well, I got lucky because changing the fluid and filter made the transmission operate better than before. The thermostat change is next. I do have some type of vacuum line with holes in it. The line runs from a switch on the firewall to something under the battery support frame. I do know what the components are at this time. The hose either melted or chaffed on the rear, right side of the intake manifold. The hose runs under the manifold to underneath the battery frame. Once again, thanks, and I will keep you posted.
Thanks in advance.
When I checked the linkage the dedent click are not there except in the D1 D2 and the part lock seems to engage.
Can this be fixed externally? Do I have to pull the pan and site the dedents and realign there?
I can run this for a few days but starting in drive is hard on the started and battery, not to mention only pulling in to a space with nose out. Thanks a lot, Gene.
Does anyone have any instructions on how to replace this light? Most importantly, how to get to where the wires "plug in"?
Thank you
I can order a rebuilt motherboard on ebay with a limetime warranty for about $50 shipped. Either way, I will have to get a mechanic to do the work. Thanks.
Chet