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Comments
Your instructions worked perfectly. Thank you as always.
I have towed a smaller boat and I am concerned if it could handle a larger load through the hills from N Carolina to New York. Does the Tow/Haul switch realy make a difference
or is it just for towing at your local marina?
Is there anything I should be aware of so I don't burn up a tranny? Thank You...
Bog boat big truck - never tow antthing heavier than the tow vehicle. You may have to go thru the brake system also and add high heat pads like cermanics to stop it.
I tried to ground the circuit at the lights, one light came on and the other 3 came on but dim (highbeams too) Highbeam indicator on dash doesn't come on. Where is the ground for the headlight circuit? I had no probs with this vehicle until 130,000 miles, now it's constant elec. problems. Thanks.
I have a 2002 Blazer LT 4wd 78k miles. The truck is awesome and love to drive it.
When I drive at high speeds I hear air noise in the cabin. It seems the drivers side window is not sealing correctly. The passenger side is fine are the other 4. I was wondering if there is anything I can do to end this. Not a huge problem but still would like to know. Also if I buy those Thule Wind Rain guards for the truck which I like. Do they cut back on this wind noise?
I did a search on the board for a previous post but could not find any.
Maybe my problem is not really a problem. Lol.
Hope to hear from you guys soon.
Thanks in advance.
BklynBlazer02 :shades:
I will try that. But I feel the air coming in the window. And when I push the window out it stops it a little of makes the air come in more.
Is there anything I can do?
Should I try cleaning the seal?
Sure clean the seal out, why not.
Worst case scenario is a new window seal. Maybe you can shine a light in there and see if the seal is distorted or torn.
Do you think those rain wind guards that get attached to the door would cut down on the wind noise?
Thanks for your response.
I asked the service guy about the history with DexCool and all the class action lawsuits. He told me that when they get one that has gone bad, they sample the antifreeze for analysis. Almost without fail, the analysis shows cross contamination with ethylene glycol antifreeze. He said that what they have found is that many times the quicky oil change places, or other "big box" auto centers, do not properly train their folks on how to identify what is in the cooling system. And that if you add so much as one pint of "green" antifreeze to ANY of the long life coolants, you are hosed. The process to properly clean and restore a cooling system after this happens takes over four hours. He also said that even if GM wanted to make folks believe the coolant was good for five years and 100K miles, it didn't make it so. Said that while the DexCool did last longer than ethylene glycol, he still wouldn't go longer than 4 years and 50K.
I asked about converting from DexCool to ethylene glycol and he said their shop had not had much success with it. If the system is in good, non-contaminated condition, it was far cheaper to stick with the flush and fill DexCool. And if it had been contaminated and driven for a while, the damage was already done. Seems the ethylene glycol acts as some sort of catalyst in the DexCool and makes it form sludge.
When I saw what was involved in the proper method of draining, flushing, refilling and purging the air from the cooling system, I decided it was well worth the $118 it cost.
He is going to fix if for me in the Spring.
I put electrical tape on it as suggested and it sealed the window. I put the tape along the whole window edge.
Good temp fix. Thanks to all.
:shades:
In cruise control, seems to continuously switch between gears on level ground, and when climbing a small hill, will downshift too late, again rev at around 4500, but not release at all when cresting the hill. I have to turn off Cruise and release the gas completely to slow the RPM's and switch to a higher gear.
No indicator lights, and several mechanics have run diagnostics with no codes indicating a problem. Tranny shop says it needs a tune-up, the Tune up shop says it needs a tranny specialist. Fuel filter, plugs and wires recently replaced, no vac leaks and fuel pressure is normal even under load according to the info I have. I'm guessing a sensor... but that opens a whole pandoras box of possibilities. Any advice or suggestions?
Sometimes we need to look and listen with our own senses, instead of trusting what a book or computer tells us.
The rear pinion leak - where the front seal where the driveshaft comes out - look under at amount leaking - if really minor then no hurry (see the 1/2" plug halfway up the rear thats the fill plug so use a 1/2' drive extension, just the square end, and open and 80-90 gear oil should be to that level - stick finger in to feel. If leaking thru the rear cover again depends on amount and if thru an axle out the brakes that need to be done now so brakes work correctly.
By 65k you should have also had the trans filter/fluid done and the transfer case fluid (if AutoTrac 4 button then transfer uses blue syn fluid not red Dexron as the transmission does). Hope you have had the Dex cool changed too or you will soon be facing some major cooling system sludging - no matter what the dealer says the GM 5/100 Dex cool has so many suits its not funny but changing and staying on top (watching) the reservior level is key.
:confuse: