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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jpmccrjpmccr Member Posts: 31
    Ok, here is one to scratch your heads on: Earlier this year we recieved a notice that OnStar is going digital and the system in my 2001 Blazer is analog. After December 31st, it will no longer function. Here's the question: can I get another OnStar system (digital) and replace the one in my truck?? And if yes, is it worth the hassle? I would really like to keep the system. Any ideas?????
    Thanks :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might check into this discussion:

    Thanks, GM!
  • tommy42tommy42 Member Posts: 70
    Need to go to onstar web site.They may have your answer.
  • jrowleyjrowley Member Posts: 1
    I'm having problems with my 2000 Jimmy as well. I recently had the lifters replaced. I understand the acceptable oil pressure range is between 20 - 60. However, prior to having the lifters replaced, the pressure would run around 40 to 45 at idle. Since the repairs, it has lost approximately 20 lbs. of pressure and the repair shop can not explain why. I am feeling a slight hesitation at times as I am driving also. Any feedback would be appreciated.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    I've got a grandma with a 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada (same thing as the others) and its got 75,410 miles on it. Its a pretty car, lots of luxury, but horribly built. Some problems are developing.
    1)When turning right(wheel turned most of the way) you can hear a clunk when straitening the car out. It's been doing it for a while. Any ideas?
    2)Driving down the road, I can hear a little "pseeet" or a loud click every few seconds, and when going up a hill it kind of hesitates. Any Ideas?
    3)The driver seat no longer moves up and down, but instead clunks and don't move. Does the entire seat need to be replaced or what?
    4) The back tailgate hatch doesn't open with the button on the rear. Is this a fix myself or a shop deal?
    5) My grandPa is asking me for advice. Should he just dump this thing and get something else, or is it worth fixing? The misses loves it, so he'll need a reason to get rid of it if he does...
    Thanks for any help!
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Lifters probably went when the lower intake gasket leaked into the motor so who knows what other bearings and metal (like oil pump) are worn now. Check the vac lines for leaks and if still a hestitation and no SES light on for a code then have to hook a scanner up to try and see whats acting up.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    1. Clunk is usually lower ball joints but could be brakes, CV, or hub.
    2. Noise could be brakes worn down or see #1 and the hesitation could be many things - sensor, tuneup, etc.
    3. Seat could have a cut wire (runs thru internally) or switch or motor bad.
    4. Most don't so use the inside button.
    5. Read all the posts on problems so find a good shop. I have 4 of the Blazers and all have the same problems and as you approach 80-100k they start to cost lots but I do most work. Look forward to new brakes and rotors, ball joints, CVs, alternator, lower intake gasket, fuel pump, etc and get the radiator and cooling system flushed with a thermostst and cap ASAP, as well as a trans filter and a ytransfer case fluid change soon (uses GM blue syn fluidin transfer). With good maintenance expect over 200k on motor.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    thanks for the advice.
    1. breaks and rotors were just changed. he was thinking along the lines of the joints and such being worn.
    2. it hesitates at the exact same time as the noise, if going up a hill and the engine's struggling. otherwise, its just another noise.
    3. the outer button below the rear wind shield wiper is the one that doesnt work...
    4. So it is worth keeping?
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    oh and, when changing the channels, the tone control switches too, to like jazz or classical or rock and what not. will GM replace the stereo?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    3/36 warranty so no. Aftermarket stereo at circuitcity installed under $150 and thats what all GMs need after 5-6 years as usually the CD player dies. That noise could be many things and needs to be narrowed down to determine but with that hesitation could be ignition like cap/rotor, plugs or wires.

    Should you keep it - that is a total owner call but you will have items failing so if you can't deal with that get something new with a 100k warranty. If you don't really need AWD dump it, if you do get all the diffs and case fluids changed!
  • goshjoshgoshjosh Member Posts: 4
    The Jimmy starts up fine when cold, but as soon as it gets to normal engine temp, it acts as if its running out of gas and dies. It won't start up again until it cools down.

    My mechanic has exhausted his resources. He checked all codes, replaced the fuel pump, scanned all the basic electrical components (coil, plugs, cap, rotor, etc) and has narrowed it down to two items: the fuel injectors or the computer. He won't go any further because to him it's a fifty fifty gamble, and like the fuel pump, he doesn't want to do all that work and be wrong about it.

    It was suggested that I take it to the dealership, but I'd rather go to the dentist and skip the anesthetic. Let me know what you think.

    Thanks,
    Joshua
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I don't see how it could be injectors given your symptoms. That's an odd deduction to make.

    Does he check fuel pressure in the injection rail after the engine dies? One must never presume that replacing an item eliminates that item as defective. Also there is a fuel pressure regulator in addition to the pump.

    The computer is always a possibility but it's rare.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    95 and earlier (till you get to the throttle body injected) have the presure reg and lines (called nut kit and who knows why) under the upper intake and they are probably leaking so is there a gas smell and any gas in oil, thats it. Pressure would drop also on pressure test.
  • dl050698dl050698 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having a strange problem with my truck. When turning to the left in forward or reverse I get a loud thunk. I had a friend watch the left front tire when I applied the brake (at slow speed) in reverse. The top of the tire shifts out about 1 to 2 inches until I release the brake pedal. I have bought new control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, ball joints, brake pads and hubs to replace on both sides. Any ideas as to what else may be causing the problem?
  • goshjoshgoshjosh Member Posts: 4
    He did check the pressure after it died and it was right on, lots of pressure. You're pretty certain that by the symptoms it is not the injectors?
  • goshjoshgoshjosh Member Posts: 4
    No gas smell or gas in the oil. Do you think that temperature would affect it even though it's not leaking?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    You have 2 temp sensors in the pre98 models so the one on the drivers head is for the temp gauge and 2nd one for the computer by the EGR and thermostat housing so if thats feeding cold always to the computer it will run rich.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Sounds like you bought it all - assume not installed yet.
    Hub would grate and withe it jacked up you will hear and feel a bad one. Ball joints maybe shot and really loose.
    Only thing left would be the coil springs and the mounts so look at them when doing the rest and the shocks run inside them on your 2wd.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well why would the car start fine with bad injectors? Makes no sense right? Now, if the electrical PULSE to the injectors fails after the car warms up,(the pulse that opens them) okay, THAT makes sense, but that's an electrical issue, not an injector issue itself.

    So maybe after the car dies he should check injector pulse with a NOID light.
  • goshjoshgoshjosh Member Posts: 4
    Thanks, for the suggestion. What do you think about "repairdog's" suggestion on the fuel pressure regulator issue?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think you can check most fuel pressure regulators pretty easily by inspecting the diaphragm inside for leakage.
  • bmath72bmath72 Member Posts: 4
    Do you plan of doing all the work yourself? I just did my 95 with all the parts you listed. It was my first rebuild. My Jimmy is a 4WD. Get ready for some work. I thought I'd get the whole thing done in one weekend. Wrong. Since It was my first rebuild, the drivers side alone took me all weekend, including 2 trips to Autozone. The passenger side went alot smoother, considering I had already done it once. Getting the bushings out were the worse part. Get the control arms out and take them to a shop to have them pressed out. They'll only charge you 1 hr labor. Good luck.
  • trckrtrckr Member Posts: 1
    Hello. I have a 2002 jimmy sls.
    At low speeds there is a loud squeak coming from under the vehicle, towards the rear. As the truck speeds up, the squeak also speeds up to begin sounding like a rattle. This occurs intermittently and only does it under acceleration. If the truck is making the noise and I shift into nuetral, the noise immediatly stops. Also, approx half the time that I shift from park into drive, there is a clunk.
    I have climbed under the truck und tried to turn the driveshaft both ways. It does not budge. There are no clunks when coasting then accelerating, which I would suspect eliminates the U joints. When I jack the truck up and turn the rear wheel (driver side),with the truck in nuetral, there seems like there is play in the rear diff and a clunk when the driveshaft begins to rotate. This does not appear to happen with the passenger side.
    There is approx 90k kms or approx 55k miles on the truck. It is not used for off roading, but tows a utility trailer quite often. Only maintanence other then oil changes is both front hubs (bearing howl) and plugs,wires, pcv, ect.
    I have no experience with rear diffs, but I am suspecting that there may be a gear backslip for the driver side axel.
    Is this possible? Does any one have some good photos and procedures? Is a store bought paper gasket required or can you use a silicone gasket maker? Any other ideas on what the problem could be?
    Much Appreciated,
    Thank you.
  • chevguy1chevguy1 Member Posts: 6
    My 93 blazer 4x4 v-6 went about 15 miles on the freeway and started bucking like it was out of gas. it was full. I pushed the pedal to the floor and could only go about 25 mph until I could exit the highway. Had it towed home. It starts and idles okay ,went around the block and seem okay BUT something is wrong. any Ideas. I was going to flush the injector but couldn't find the pump relay. Thanks.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Missed this post -
    All GMs rear ends are sloppy and the pass side is worst than the drivers. They have a C clip that hold the axles in at the center of the diff. The rear cover can be removed for full cleaning/dumping of the gear oil and they sell a gasket or you can uese the form a gasket - or the oil can be sucked out and refilled till it runs out that pass side diff plug located alittle over half way up the diff. 80w-90 or 75w90 gear oil. Many GMs also get that clunk as the ring and pinion wear so if in doubt most transmission or 4wd shops can check the play and reshim as necessary. The front output has a crush sleeve on it. Finally check the u-joint in many positions.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Recent tuneup with cap/rotor/plugs/wires. Fuel filter and air filter. Isn't 93 the last year of the throttle body injectors and one is slow and second accel. Believe a metal filter in the side of the TB also.
  • chevguy1chevguy1 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the reply. Just tuned up and it is a vortec with the spider injectors. Fuel pump was installed two years ago( Delco) I have another new fuel pump and injectors. If you were to guess where would you go first. Also the injectors were installed two years ago just after the pump @ a shop. He said they couldn't get new so I got rebuilt.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    I would look at the regulaor and lines (nut kit) under teh intake if you haven't been in there as they usually start leaking - any gas smell under hood. Test the fuel pressure.
  • xpenderxpender Member Posts: 3
    I have a 98 Jimmy with the 3 buttons on the dash. Everything started last winter when I tried the 4x4. I was at the mall (in 4x4), backed up from the stall, put it in drive and did not have any wheels engagement. The engine was reving, but was not going anywhere. Played with the transmission shifter and got it going again. After that time I tried to use the 4HI and It would not go to 4HI, the light would blink and the 2HI light would come on. No switch appened. I was able to go to 4LO. I replaced the Motor/Encoder. Took it for a spin and the 4HI engaged once. I stopped, put it in neutral tried to switch it back to 2HI and nothing happened. Again the engine was reving without any engagement. I switch it to 4LO in emergency mode. Then I was able to switch it back to 2HI. I checked the vaccuum hoses and they seemed good. Checked the vaccuum switch, and the ball inside was stuck. I replaced it. Took it for a spin. I was driving in 4x4 Hi, stopped at a red light, while waiting I switch it back to 2HI and nothing happened. Tried to go but the truck was not going anywhere. I had to switch it to 4LO the emergency way. Then I was able to switch it to 2HI. Never able to switch in 4HI. The light would blink, and would go back to 2HI. After playing with all 3 switches trying to get the 4HI going, I lost the 4LO too. Now nothing happened in 4HI and 4LO. I can hear the TCCM relays switching, but cannot hear the motor/encoder moving anymore (used to). Is it another motor/encoder that I have to replace? If yes, why did it stopped working after a few hours? Did it burned out? How can I tell? Any help would be appreciated.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Member Posts: 31
    Ok, here's the poop. First: 2001 Chevy Blazer LT, 4.3L V6,4X4, with 104,530 miles. My wife is on the way from the airport and she gets a SES light (steady, not blinking). Engine runs but rough. No misfiring or backfires. She stops and calls OnStar and they tell her it is an emission (?) issue and gives her the Error Code P-0101. Did some research on the internet and it looks like it might be a Mass Air Flow Sensor. Am I close??
    What is it and is this something I can fix or is this a shop only fix???
    Please help . . .
  • jpmccrjpmccr Member Posts: 31
    Never mind guys . . .
    Replaced the MAFS ($115.00) and it runs great now.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Member Posts: 31
    2001 Chevy Blazer LT (104,520 miles)with error code P-0300. OnStar ran a diagonistic and came up with this code. What is it, can I do it, or is this a shop repair????
    :cry:
  • c8zzc8zz Member Posts: 1
    I realize it has been quite some time since you posted this, but I was wondering if you ever found a solution. I have a 2001 Jimmy and my key will not come out at all. It had been sticking intermitantly but last night it stuck for good. So of course this morning I had a dead battery. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • dwbwvdwbwv Member Posts: 1
    I have trans fluid coming out the transmission vent.Any ideas on what would cause this..I had someone local look at it and they said the seal between the transmission an trasfer is leaking and over filling the transfer case making it back out the vent...
  • stuntman12stuntman12 Member Posts: 7
    Did you try pushing the release with a key or a screwdriver? There's a little hole on the steering column--I think it's on the bottom (sorry, I haven't done it for a couple years). Stick something in there, push (you might have to fiddle around a bit), and your key should come out. That's how you get the key out when the battery is dead (that's how I know).
  • 87k5jimmy87k5jimmy Member Posts: 2
    I have been over this so many times and can't figure out the problem. when the truck is running it runs great but when I shut it down the battery goes dead. the stereo and dome lights go out alot at the same time but when it is left to sit for awhile i have to jump it then everything works just fine again. PLEASE!!!!! help me I love my Jimmy and don't want to have to sell it. I can't sell it I love it too much. I don't have the money to pay an automotive electrician to figure it out so if anyone can help I would be MUCH ABLIGED!!!!!! I will help you as much as I can on other issues. :cry:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    How old is the battery? If you have access to a voltmeter, check the voltage with the engine running. Should be between 13.6 and 14.8, roughly. Disconnect the battery and measure the voltage. Should be around 12.6 volts. Wait a few hours and check it again. If the voltage has dropped more than a couple of tenths, let it sit over night and check it in the morning, still disconnected from the car. If it has dropped below 12vdc, there is a bad cell in the battery and it is discharging internally. Time for a new battery.
  • 87k5jimmy87k5jimmy Member Posts: 2
    THank you changed the battery and the discharge problem is resolved however I am still trying to figure out the problem with the stereo and dome lights. If there is anyone that can help I am still open to suggestions.
  • rogerm4rogerm4 Member Posts: 10
    I have a 98 Blazer, 76000 miles, and have had many of the common blazer issues, ie..upper/lower ball joints, left side hub, right side needs replaced now, rear wiper motor, power steering pump twice, remote oil filler lines twice, brake/rotor, etc etc. Not being a diy person, this truck has cost me a bunch of money at the local Chevy dealer. As crazy as it sounds, I would to stay with a Chevy. Do the 2004-2006 Trailblazers still have the front suspension issues that the older trucks all seem to have? Thanks for any input!
  • grose69grose69 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 95 Blazer with 185000 miles on it. I have had it for 7 years. Other than normal wear and tear, the Blazer has been as solid as a rock! I truly expect to get well over 200000 miles out of it.
  • grose69grose69 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 95 Blazer with 185000 miles on the original Vortec V-6. Lately I have noticed the engine running poorly after it gets warmed up. I just changed the plugs, wires,cap rotor and O2 sensor. None of this seems to have helped. When you first start the engine, it runs as smooth as the day it was built. After about 30 minutes, the miss starts. I have also noticed a significant drop in fuel mileage as well. Any ides?
  • rallanrallan Member Posts: 10
    I have a 1998 Blazer that will not go into 4hi or 4 lo.
    I can hear the relays engaging and the lights flicker but am not getting voltage to the encoder motor when 4hi or 4lo is pressed.I can disconnect the harness from the encoder and apply voltage to activate the encoder and shift into 4hi. The 4hi light is then lit but will not shift out of 4hi to 2hi without "hotwiring" the encoder.Did not try 4lo.
    Tried replacing the TCCM but same problem.
    The harness from the TCCM to the encoder checks out OK with an OHM meter.
    Not sure what to do next. Anyone have an idea?
  • rallanrallan Member Posts: 10
    I have seen this problem before on other vehicles.
    Try Changing the Ignition coil.
  • aatblazaatblaz Member Posts: 2
    what did you end up doing? I've got the same thing happening....
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Member Posts: 28
    well, sorry it took me so long to send this. Like you said repairdog, I got the dealer to change my fan clutch( because of the heavy blowing), That has fixed it, no more blowing, and the power has came back. I went and had them to flush cooling system and put fresh dex in it.. blazer is running great now. Next Id guess, complete tune up seeing it has 118,671 on it. And I dont have a clue if any maintence has been done.But, so far, I havent had any of the major problems yet.( maybe they have been done before I got it)( fingers,toes and hair crossed)
    The only thing is I havent been able to get the 4x4 worked on yet.
    One question I have is, I dnt have a clue if this has ever been done , but, at this mileage, would a transmission fluid and filter change, be good or bad for it? I've heard the horror stories about getting this done on a GM after 100,000 for the first time. And the thing burn up.

    Oh,is case you forgot, I have a 2000 blazer LS 4x4 :D:)
  • thesweetrosslgthesweetrosslg Member Posts: 28
    I recently had the same problem with my 97 jimmy
    i know it sounds simple and if it is what the problem is youll kick yourself for not trying it
    but look in fuce box i think if its the same as the 97 it will be number 19 and its a 20 fuse yellow
    replace it and see if that helps
  • thesweetrosslgthesweetrosslg Member Posts: 28
    on my 97 im not sure if it was ever done befor but when i bought it with 115k i had the tranny flushed and it was great then at about 134k i had to have the 2-3 cylanoid in the tranny replace so they flushed it then droped the pan drained it replace the 2-3 downshift and then filled back up
    no problems
    i have 143k now
  • aatblazaatblaz Member Posts: 2
    just had this problem fixed, a seal between the transfer case and tranny went pumping fluid into the transfer case and overflowing through the breather(vent). $300-400 to fix by someone who knows what there doing.
  • rallanrallan Member Posts: 10
    Under the hood there is a fuse box. In the middle row next to the relay closest to the firewall there is a 20 Amp fuse which is labeled "ATC" on the diagram. I replaced it and now my Blazer will shift in/out of 4WD just fine.
    So GM uses 2 fuses for the system, one for the CPU at the fuse pannel to the side of the dash and one for the electric motor under the hood.
  • lelegeelelegee Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 chevy blazer and my turn signal and hazard lights won't come on. I went to autozone they gave me a big round plug. They said it goes under the driver side under where the pedals are. I took the panel off I did not see anything. Did they give me the wrong piece, because I looked where you said and I seen two square plugs there. which one do I need?
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