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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • dlingleydlingley Member Posts: 2
    Hi gibeau,
    Did you ever figure out this problem? My 97 jimmy is doing the same thing. Except mine aren't flashing, they are stuck on.

    Thanks
  • scottyj686scottyj686 Member Posts: 3
    I have an'02 Blazer Extreme. I left it sitting for a few days with the tank very low(its been about 10 degrees for the past 3 weeks). Call me dumb, whatever, i'm beyond that. Anyway I'm pretty sure the lines(or whatever) are frozen and I put some Heet along with 5 gallons of gas in there. My question is what do I do next, let it sit? i've been trying to start it, hoping to try and get the Heet to start passing through and thaw out whatever is frozen. I've ran the battery dead and its recharging now. Should it have taken that long? any quick response would be nice, I kinda need it running by monday to get to work. Thanks
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Scott,

    How cold is it where you are now? If the lines are really the problem, and the truck is outside, you can try blocking the open area around the sides and back and blow a space heater from the front. Sort of like the skirting on a trailer. Go easy on the trying to start. If all other things are okay, it is either going to start in the first couple of rotations, or not start at all.

    How do you like your xTreme? I was looking for one when we got my son his '99 four door,but they are very, very rare in Texas.
  • scottyj686scottyj686 Member Posts: 3
    Well its actually the warmest its been in about 2 weeks(29 degrees). I just checked the weather report and they say it supposed to hit 37 tomorrow! Anyway, I'm not exactly sure if its the gas lines. I was just told that by a friend and he told me to put the Heet and the 5 gallons of gas. Unfortunatly he left to go to Boston for the weekend and is of no further assistance. There were a few times when I was cranking it that it seemed to catch and die just like that. Almost like it got a few drops of gas and burned it real quick. I'll try putting a heater to it, in hopes that'll do it. If not I guess I got a bigger problem. Any Ideas? When I crank it I can hear the fuel pump running so I think i'm good there.

    But anyway, It's been alright to me. I have to add coolant about once a month in the summer. and thats probably a bigger problem i have to address pretty soon. I don't see any on the oil dipstick, and once this past summer it leaked right out the bottom. So i'm guessin it may be a bad seal or somethin. Let me know if you any tips on that.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    These engines have a history of intake gaskets leaking coolant. I was told today by a dealer that mine has started leaking, but I sure don't see it. The antifreeze level hasn't changed, and there is nothing in the oil.

    I had it at the shop as both motor mounts broke. I was all set to do the repair myself when I realized that I didn't have the tools to get into the very tight quarters. Glad I sent it over to them. Cost me $200, but it took them over four hours to get them swapped out. The tech said what I already knew. If only one is broken, you can lift the engine from underneath and it will pivot on the good mount and give you working room. If both are broken, the whole shooting match has to go straight up a couple of inches to get clearance. Took me about 20 minutes to figure out I didn't want to spend a day on my back fighting with that sucker. In case you hadn't noticed, that is one big honkin V6 to fit into such a small engine compartment!
  • benjiminbenjimin Member Posts: 1
    Did the timing chain fix your noise problem? I have the same symptom but was never told of this problem by the dealer.

    My 2003 Jimmy sls 4.3 liter engine has an almost constantly pinging sound (similar to a dieseling sound) when cruising. It goes away when I accelerate. I also have a 2001 slx which is starting to do exactly the same thing but not as bad.

    Both start well, run well (other than the sound) and have lots of power. The 2003 has 45,000 miles on it and the 2001 has about 80,000 miles. Both have the original plugs, etc. I usually run regular gas (with 10% ethanol) but I have recently run several tanks of the highest test gas I can find with no noticeable difference.

    I'm concerned this will escalate into a bigger problem, head, valves, etc., if not resolved.

    Ben
  • 00jimmy00jimmy Member Posts: 5
    After replacing several fuel pumps in less than a year, we looked at other problems which could cause the pump to stop working. It turned out in our case that one of the connections on the plug was corroded. It seems the bad connection to ground was our problem. Just cleaned it up and added a bit of dielectric grease. Hopefully it will run for a while now...
  • morenolmmorenolm Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Jiimy 4.3. About a month ago it started having problems starting. No engine comes on. Had the ignition module, the regulator, coil, distributor cap switched. The battery, alternator, starter, and the fuses are all good. There is a alarm attached can this hae anything to do with it.
  • 01280128 Member Posts: 3
    If your alarm has a "kill switch" function, it can certainly disable your ignition. If it is an aftermarket alarm, check with your installer / shop / or look up the manufacturer online for trouble shooting.
  • c5nutc5nut Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2000 Blazer and for the pastweek I've gone thru 5 10 amp fuses for the courtesy lights. I've read some posts about this but still unsure where to start. I've read a few posts that suggest checking grounds for the connected components (lamps) but, where are they? Are they near the bulb fixtures themselves? Thanks
  • murphy51murphy51 Member Posts: 5
    Found it easy to replace that plug if you unbolt the steering box and pry it up out of the way.
    Only 3 bolts on side of frame to unbolt the gearbox.
    These things are the biggest piece of crap ever built.Designed to fail.No wonder GM is in trouble.
    Between the multitudes of problems with these blazers,they can't make a decent tranny and use the crappy orange dexcool antifreeze which destroys the whole cooling system and eventually the engine.
  • redgmsredgms Member Posts: 2
    I was hoping someone could help me by letting me know where the t-stat is in my 2002 chevy blazer. I have been all through the engine and the manual and can't find squat. Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks...
  • jdoranjdoran Member Posts: 2
    trying to find out answer to your question on the timing chain,did it fix your problem with the engine or is it still there,and if it did what part or parts did the dealer replace and how much did they charge,having same sounding problems with my blazer and just would like to know whats going on,any info would be greatly appreciated,thanks Jim
  • jdoranjdoran Member Posts: 2
    trying to find out answer to your question on the timing chain,did it fix your problem with the engine or is it still there,and if it did what part or parts did the dealer replace and how much did they charge,having same sounding problems with my blazer and just would like to know whats going on,any info would be greatly appreciated,thanks Jim
  • c5nutc5nut Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2000 4.3 and my thermostat is in the cap of the radiator (top of radiator, passenger side).
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Follow the upper radiator hose back to the top of the engine. The hose attaches to the thermostat housing. Chevy thermostat housings are usually held on with two bolts. Be careful when reinstalling and check that the thermostat is fully seated, the gasket aligned, and the housing is sitting flush before tightening the housing. Many a housing has been replaced because it was tightened down on the lip of the thermostat and cracked.
  • c5nutc5nut Member Posts: 11
    I'm having a similar problem with my 2000 ZR2. The courtesy light fuse keeps blowing and I then noticed my 4x4 switch light was out too. When I put a new 10A fuse in for my lights (which blew the next day) my 4x4 switch lit up. My question for you is when you were having your trouble, was your 4 wheel drive still able to engage? Mine will not engage while this particular fuse is blown, and the switch light is out. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
  • chgoblazerchgoblazer Member Posts: 4
    I had the same problem.
    I removed the battery and the tray.
    Found that the actuator have a ripped diaphram.
    I mickey moused it by using rubber cement and a patch.
    It lasted the winter , till I got a new part.
  • pepperjensenpepperjensen Member Posts: 2
    my girl freind was driveing my 95 Blazer w/4.3 and it died. she thought it was out of gas. she put 6.5 gals in it and it still did not start. I checked for spark and it is good. i cant hear the feul pump like i used to hear it when i turn on the ign. i found 2 relays in the glove box and i assumed tat one of them was for the f/pump. i swaped them and no difference. should i buy a pump and install it or do i need to do more testing. i had a simular problem with a 85 century but it turned out to be in the wiring an i riged it up with a wire direct from the fuse box but i dont want to rig this one. i know that is a common problem with the 80's gm's...t/u for advice in advance
  • tolesontoleson Member Posts: 9
    Check the ECM fuse, Im not sure what number it is but that may be the issue..

    Good luck!
  • pepperjensenpepperjensen Member Posts: 2
    ok i did check the fuses except the metal boxed ones. i suppose those are called relays? i will check the with a multimeter. ps will be a few days till i get back to it. as i am a desiel dummy( truck driver) and on the road right now thanks
  • 00jimmy00jimmy Member Posts: 5
    It is likely that the pump is dead. However, you may be able to access the electrical plugs on top of the tank if the spare is out of the way. Make sure the connections are good before dropping the tank. I found using a motorcycle jack is a nice way to support and lower the tank.
  • csf2csf2 Member Posts: 1
    4x4 02 Chevy Blazer had service engine lite on 69k miles. Chevy repair shop replaced upper/low ball joints, idler pitman arms. Said thermostat stuck open, waterpump leaking all repaired.
    Blazer now rocks side to side (like wave motion)whenever it hits a bump or road irregularity (ie always). Took back to repairshop-they said drives normal and w/in specs.
    Possible cause? Any help appreciated and thanks.
  • jstameyjstamey Member Posts: 4
    1993 s-10 blazer voretc 4.3 will not stay running inless i feed it gas through intake.Has newer fuel pump, spider injector,bothsend &return lines.I disconected the lines gas flows good.What eles is there?
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    Hello, my name is TJ. Did you find a reason for the Check Engine Soon light coming on?
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    Hi, my name is TJ, I have a 96 LS. Were you able to correct hard brake pedal problem?
  • mattredmattred Member Posts: 1
    i am fighting the same problem with a 1993 jimmy with the 4.3 votec. what did you find to be the problem with it. i have replace the fuel pump, filter, plugs wires, distributor, cap, rotor, coil, used ecm and put a used fuel presure regulator on the orginal fuel injector/spider assembly. it runs fine and doesnt miss but dies at idle when warmed up. i am stumped!! please help :sick:
  • chevyride22chevyride22 Member Posts: 10
    My 1995 Chevy S-10 Blazer will not go into 4WD. The 4WD is electonic with a button for 2H, 4H, and 4L. When you hit the 4H button, the light comes on and you can hear the relay in the control module in the dash activate. I can also hear the tranfer case motor engage. The drive shaft to the front differential is also engaged. I have replaced the vacuum switch on top of the transfer case (ball inside was sticking). I am not getting vacuum to the vacuum diaphram actuator located under the battery tray. This is what engages the 4WD. I have checked all vacuum hoses for breaks or kinks. Where does the vacuum hose go after it leaves the actuator? It appears to go in behind the motor on the back leftside as you face the motor, but cannot see where it connects. Does anyone have or know where I can get electrical and vacuum diagrams of the 4WD system?
    Are there any other items that can be checked? Thanks.
  • jstameyjstamey Member Posts: 4
    I still havnt got fixed yet.Nobody seems to know.Will reply when i find out something. Sorry still hopping on a answer :(
  • jstameyjstamey Member Posts: 4
    My 93 4x4 did the same had to replace front differential.(junk yard ). New one cost over $2000. $250 fixed mine. But im not a professional.Not sure were vaccum line goes my self. Sorry.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm wondering if you could hook up vacuum temporarily to that actuator to see what happens. You could hook up a vacuum line to a known vacuum source and use an aquarium valve to turn it on and off in the passenger compartment. A bit of a hassle but it would tell you the problem area.
  • blazer2000blazer2000 Member Posts: 2
    hi you are right it does go in the back of the motor on the left as you look at the motor.get up on the motor and you will see it.also get someone to engage the 4x4 while you put your hand under the battery tray and see if the pump does work you will feel it moving if it does the transfercase motor is not working i had to change mine
  • blazer2000blazer2000 Member Posts: 2
    get them made at a hydraulic shop like i did they will never burst again it cost me about 250 dollars but its worth it never had a problem again.
  • 79blazer79blazer Member Posts: 4
    I have a 79 K5 with a 9 in lift with 37 in tires. I get less then 8 miles to the gallon and a friend of mine has the same exact truck and lift and he gets 15 miles to the gallon. What is my problem? I have a new throttle body,carburator, and air filter. Just changed all the fluids but nothing seems to help it.
  • 79blazer79blazer Member Posts: 4
    You might want to get your gears checked out. The only thing i can think of is since you put a lift and a little bigger tires it can slowly wear the gears down so you might want to get the gears checked out see if the pumpkin has any metal shavings from the ring and pinon. As for the heat check the connection between the wire and the fan. Mine use to do that until i got a new wire. And if its not that then its the fan the reason it work when your driving is cause the fan moves when you drive when you don't drive it stays still. Does it stop working when your at a light or stopped.
  • chevyride22chevyride22 Member Posts: 10
    I hooked up a vacuum source to the actuator under the battery and when I put it in 4wd the front wheels engaged like they should. That tells me that the transfer case and switching are o.k. I have traced the vacuum hoses but cannot see any breaks or cracks. Do you know where the original source for the vacuum connects? The only other part that I see that has a vacuum hose connected to it (other than the transfer case switch with 3 vacuum hoses and the actuator under the battery) is a switch mounted on the passenger's side fender beside the battery. This same switch also has an electrical connector to it (vacuum hose at one end, electrical connector at the other). Would you know what know what this switch is used for? Thanks.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    I am posting this for anyone who wants to add RKE to a late model Blazer/Jimmy.

    If your glove box RPO label does not show AU0 on the codes, you do not have remote keyless entry from the factory.

    Now, the good news.

    Used RKE receivers are available (cheap) online. I got mine on eBay from s10warehouse for $15 including shipping. It installs on the backside of the panel above the parking brake pedal, and the wiring harness is already there. Takes about 5 minutes to install.

    Now for the fun part. You MUST have a GM dealer enable the module. My dealer had never done this before, so I figured it would be good to share the knowlege.

    The technician will need to download the BCM (body control module) software into a TechII programmer and transfer the information to the shop computer. Then, you scroll down through the list of details till you get to "Equipped with RKE" or something like that. It will show "NO". The tech just toggled this to "YES", saved the data back into the Tech II, and reloaded the program into the vehicle BCM.

    That's it, now the vehicle knows the module is there. I wanted to be as specific as I could on this because dealers generally have never heard of this procedure. They regularly re-program key fobs, or add key fobs, but telling a car that was built without RKE that it now has it, is just not something they often do, if ever.

    FOB programming varies somewhat from model to model, but if you check http://www.programyourremote.com/
    you will probably find what you need. There is a company advertising on their website called ChipKeys.com. I bought my key fobs from them, the prices were the cheapest I found, and delivery was quick, and new product.

    I don't work for any of the companies mentioned here, nor do I know anybody at the companies. But I had really good support and delivery and thought I would share the experience.

    Jim
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    I have a 96 LS... 182K miles... I have changed the spark plugs twice... I had no trouble changing this plug... I used a box end wrench. I will take a pic and post sometime soon.

    TJ
  • parkeradamcparkeradamc Member Posts: 4
    does anyone know where the heater core is located on a 96 jimmy and how to access it. i have half the dash apart and starting under the hood? help
    \
  • parkeradamcparkeradamc Member Posts: 4
    sir do you know anything about the heater core? mine is leaking into the passanger side floor boards
  • nmartnmart Member Posts: 3
    :sick:

    I have a 1989 S10blazer The 4.2 V6 fi 175,456 mileas. Went for emissions test and Air inj sys, egr,pcv,fuel inlet restrictor, Cat Coverter,Evap control sys, gas cap integrity all passed, tail pipe #'s
    CO%
    Idle limit 1.20 reading 7.22 fail
    2500 rpm 1.20 reading 6.86 fail
    HC ppm
    Idle 220 ...382. fail
    2500 rpm 220... 267 fail
    :sick:
    Seems there is to much emisions coming out of tail pipe all other things are ok. I do smell fuel when it starts though, and iot runs rough sometimes. I always kept up on tunups. also seems to eat more gas.. Need to know what parts would effect emissions that would cause high CO%. need to know something before having it fixed. thanks

    thanks for any help/
  • 79blazer79blazer Member Posts: 4
    Yeah my brother has that problem every, i don't know how it happens but it just developes a small hole over time, the heater core its self is not alot but the labor is. You have to take the entire dash off.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Had a similar problem on a 6.0L. Turned out to be a bad fuel regulator that was "leaking" for want of a better word.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    2002 Blazer Xtreme, 61k miles.

    I bought this little gem a few weeks ago and have been going through the myriad of mechanical and electrical eccentric behavior. Knocked out the last one this morning. In the transmission thread I wrote about the off the wall behavior of the transmission, shifting into neutral at high RPM. Well, the mechanicals all checked out great, drained and refilled with a fresh filter, and had the software purged and reloaded with the latest updates from GM. Shifts great, no issues, until ...

    5000RPM, just before the shift, engine has a major misfire and shuts down fuel momentarily. No codes set. Fuel pressure good, installed new cap and rotor, repositioned the coil wire to be sure it wasn't arcing. No dice, same symptom. I read where if a problem could be repeated several times in a short period of time, a code would be set. So, as much as it pained me to do it, the third time set a CEL, crankshaft position sensor. The sensor checked out okay statically, but these things are Hall Effect sensors. If the output is weak, the faster the pulses come through the greater the chance of the sensor missing it. Which is exactly what was happening. And when the CPS doesn't see pulses, the fuel and ignition shut down. After all, the CPS says the engine is not turning.

    So the sum is this; if you have an engine that runs fine under normal conditions, but cuts out and falls on its face at high RPM, look closely at the CPS. It has been revised by AC Delco, and the new part number is 12596851. Replacing the CPS not only corrected the high RPM misfire, but the occasional 'hiccup' in normal driving. This symptom is not limited to the 4.3L, but can occur in any engine using the CPS for feedback to the engine control system.

    Hope this helps somebody.

    Jim
  • misstee1misstee1 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, this is my first post so please let me know if I am leaving something out. I have a 98 Jimmy xls 2wd 4dr 150,000mi--I hear a whistling/screeching noise sometimes when I start it up, when driving hear an airplane like sound occasionally that's the best I can describe it as. It sounds like rumbling air. Also when driving for a while check engine light comes on and the car jerks between 1st and 2nd gear. Have been told the airplane sound might be the air intake meter or something like that. Have no clue what the whistling sound or the jerking is. Please help!
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    HI, my name is TJ, I have a 96 LS, 182K miles. Check the ATF (automatic transmission fluid)... What color is it? Does it smell burnt? If so... when was the last time you had a transmission flush maintenance? This is not the same as dropping the pan and changing the filter. This is a good place to start...

    Take care, TJ
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    Hi... I have not had to deal with the heater core... If you are not going to replace the core soon... I would remove the hoses from the core on the firewall... engine compartment side... and run a short bypass hose from the block to the water pump... this will stop the leaking... a major priority at this time.

    Take care, TJ
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    I have read some posts about the five year/150K orange coolant from the factory... used in these vehicles... most said to drain it and replace with the green stuff. Are there any docs available on the damage this coolant causes? Or... what experiences has anyone had with the orange?

    Thank you in advance, TJ
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    Hi... I own a 96 LS... 182K miles. I am curious how yours has performed for you?

    Take care, TJ
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Do not mix unless you KNOW all the orange is out of the system. You can still use the orange Dexcool, just don't run it beyond 3yrs/50K miles. The stuff is okay, just not as good at GM wanted us to believe.
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