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Did you ever figure out this problem? My 97 jimmy is doing the same thing. Except mine aren't flashing, they are stuck on.
Thanks
How cold is it where you are now? If the lines are really the problem, and the truck is outside, you can try blocking the open area around the sides and back and blow a space heater from the front. Sort of like the skirting on a trailer. Go easy on the trying to start. If all other things are okay, it is either going to start in the first couple of rotations, or not start at all.
How do you like your xTreme? I was looking for one when we got my son his '99 four door,but they are very, very rare in Texas.
But anyway, It's been alright to me. I have to add coolant about once a month in the summer. and thats probably a bigger problem i have to address pretty soon. I don't see any on the oil dipstick, and once this past summer it leaked right out the bottom. So i'm guessin it may be a bad seal or somethin. Let me know if you any tips on that.
I had it at the shop as both motor mounts broke. I was all set to do the repair myself when I realized that I didn't have the tools to get into the very tight quarters. Glad I sent it over to them. Cost me $200, but it took them over four hours to get them swapped out. The tech said what I already knew. If only one is broken, you can lift the engine from underneath and it will pivot on the good mount and give you working room. If both are broken, the whole shooting match has to go straight up a couple of inches to get clearance. Took me about 20 minutes to figure out I didn't want to spend a day on my back fighting with that sucker. In case you hadn't noticed, that is one big honkin V6 to fit into such a small engine compartment!
My 2003 Jimmy sls 4.3 liter engine has an almost constantly pinging sound (similar to a dieseling sound) when cruising. It goes away when I accelerate. I also have a 2001 slx which is starting to do exactly the same thing but not as bad.
Both start well, run well (other than the sound) and have lots of power. The 2003 has 45,000 miles on it and the 2001 has about 80,000 miles. Both have the original plugs, etc. I usually run regular gas (with 10% ethanol) but I have recently run several tanks of the highest test gas I can find with no noticeable difference.
I'm concerned this will escalate into a bigger problem, head, valves, etc., if not resolved.
Ben
Only 3 bolts on side of frame to unbolt the gearbox.
These things are the biggest piece of crap ever built.Designed to fail.No wonder GM is in trouble.
Between the multitudes of problems with these blazers,they can't make a decent tranny and use the crappy orange dexcool antifreeze which destroys the whole cooling system and eventually the engine.
Thanks...
I removed the battery and the tray.
Found that the actuator have a ripped diaphram.
I mickey moused it by using rubber cement and a patch.
It lasted the winter , till I got a new part.
Good luck!
Blazer now rocks side to side (like wave motion)whenever it hits a bump or road irregularity (ie always). Took back to repairshop-they said drives normal and w/in specs.
Possible cause? Any help appreciated and thanks.
Are there any other items that can be checked? Thanks.
If your glove box RPO label does not show AU0 on the codes, you do not have remote keyless entry from the factory.
Now, the good news.
Used RKE receivers are available (cheap) online. I got mine on eBay from s10warehouse for $15 including shipping. It installs on the backside of the panel above the parking brake pedal, and the wiring harness is already there. Takes about 5 minutes to install.
Now for the fun part. You MUST have a GM dealer enable the module. My dealer had never done this before, so I figured it would be good to share the knowlege.
The technician will need to download the BCM (body control module) software into a TechII programmer and transfer the information to the shop computer. Then, you scroll down through the list of details till you get to "Equipped with RKE" or something like that. It will show "NO". The tech just toggled this to "YES", saved the data back into the Tech II, and reloaded the program into the vehicle BCM.
That's it, now the vehicle knows the module is there. I wanted to be as specific as I could on this because dealers generally have never heard of this procedure. They regularly re-program key fobs, or add key fobs, but telling a car that was built without RKE that it now has it, is just not something they often do, if ever.
FOB programming varies somewhat from model to model, but if you check http://www.programyourremote.com/
you will probably find what you need. There is a company advertising on their website called ChipKeys.com. I bought my key fobs from them, the prices were the cheapest I found, and delivery was quick, and new product.
I don't work for any of the companies mentioned here, nor do I know anybody at the companies. But I had really good support and delivery and thought I would share the experience.
Jim
TJ
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I have a 1989 S10blazer The 4.2 V6 fi 175,456 mileas. Went for emissions test and Air inj sys, egr,pcv,fuel inlet restrictor, Cat Coverter,Evap control sys, gas cap integrity all passed, tail pipe #'s
CO%
Idle limit 1.20 reading 7.22 fail
2500 rpm 1.20 reading 6.86 fail
HC ppm
Idle 220 ...382. fail
2500 rpm 220... 267 fail
:sick:
Seems there is to much emisions coming out of tail pipe all other things are ok. I do smell fuel when it starts though, and iot runs rough sometimes. I always kept up on tunups. also seems to eat more gas.. Need to know what parts would effect emissions that would cause high CO%. need to know something before having it fixed. thanks
thanks for any help/
I bought this little gem a few weeks ago and have been going through the myriad of mechanical and electrical eccentric behavior. Knocked out the last one this morning. In the transmission thread I wrote about the off the wall behavior of the transmission, shifting into neutral at high RPM. Well, the mechanicals all checked out great, drained and refilled with a fresh filter, and had the software purged and reloaded with the latest updates from GM. Shifts great, no issues, until ...
5000RPM, just before the shift, engine has a major misfire and shuts down fuel momentarily. No codes set. Fuel pressure good, installed new cap and rotor, repositioned the coil wire to be sure it wasn't arcing. No dice, same symptom. I read where if a problem could be repeated several times in a short period of time, a code would be set. So, as much as it pained me to do it, the third time set a CEL, crankshaft position sensor. The sensor checked out okay statically, but these things are Hall Effect sensors. If the output is weak, the faster the pulses come through the greater the chance of the sensor missing it. Which is exactly what was happening. And when the CPS doesn't see pulses, the fuel and ignition shut down. After all, the CPS says the engine is not turning.
So the sum is this; if you have an engine that runs fine under normal conditions, but cuts out and falls on its face at high RPM, look closely at the CPS. It has been revised by AC Delco, and the new part number is 12596851. Replacing the CPS not only corrected the high RPM misfire, but the occasional 'hiccup' in normal driving. This symptom is not limited to the 4.3L, but can occur in any engine using the CPS for feedback to the engine control system.
Hope this helps somebody.
Jim
Take care, TJ
Take care, TJ
Thank you in advance, TJ
Take care, TJ