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HI, I have a 96 LS... 182K miles... a note on the door hinge pins/bushings... I just replaced mine... really needed done at 100K... but the door striker just now started hitting wrong. The bushings and hinge pins are the same on my 81 Grand Prix... same bushings with brass/bronze... they use the softer metal so that the hinge pin does not wear... just the bushings. I fairly good system... but what really puts pressure on the upper pin is the door spring. The spring has to be removed to change the pins and bushings... so just leave it out. You can get the door spring removal tool at NAPA for around $21.00. I replaced both upper and lower at the same time. I suspended the door with a rope sling... and a small nylon belt type come a long from my garage door opener mounting hardware in the ceiling... yes I have digital pics of doing it. Was about a three hour project... as I had never done this with hinges that were welded to the body and door. I could do the job again in two hours if I had to.
Do you still own your Jimmy?
Take care, TJ
Take care, TJ
thanks
Thank you... TJ
I had two 3.8 Buick engines to deal with at one time... and if you failed to change out the factory nylon cam gear... by the 80K mark... it was too late.
Thank you again.. one less thing to be concerned with... thank you GM too.
Take Care... TJ
Take Care,.. TJ
Take Care... TJ
The timing chain stretched and I had to replace it, and the nylon cam gear, at 20K miles.
Weird engine, but developed a lot of low RPM torque.
So, the parts guy wasn't pulling your leg, it does use a conventional gear/chain/gear setup. And it also uses a gear/gear setup for the counterbalance. I knew something didn't seem right when I saw the gears and no chain. The 4.3 is based off the Chevy 5.7L engine, which uses a chain.
Fairly easy repair, though. And if the oil has been maintained, the balance shaft gears are probably fine.
Jim
I've had my '01 Jimmy for a little over a year (2nd owner, 65k miles) and have had a couple small oil drips below the drivers side pretty much since I bought it. Recently, I noticed the spotting getting larger. From everything I've read and can see it looks like I'm having the same problem with the oil cooler lines.
Thanks, Rick
Take care, TJ
I will defer to others with more timing chain experience on the 4.3, but 187K is a lot of miles for the chain, and the repair is not that difficult on a small block Chevy engine. It is a monster repair on the aforementioned 3.8L.
Seems kind of weird to me. Must be chevy hired some people from ford to lay out the electrical!!
Thank you for your input and happy driving!
I had a car where both low beams failed at the same time. I thought it was odd, and asked a trusted mechanic. Being a logical southern boy, he just looked at me and answered, "Why shouldn't they both go at the same time? They was put in at the same time, wasn't they?"
Kind of hard to argue with that logic.
You could always call a dealer and ask.
I hope this helps... TJ
I just fixed a friends 99 blazer that sounds like it had the same problem. Old fuel pump died and she had someone install a new pump and also a new filter. Then it began to run/studder like yours.
It took me a while to figure out but here was the fix for her car (runs great now). The new filter that she had installed was the wrong one. Looks identical to the correct filter but either Autozone or the mechanic messed up. the in flow direction and outflow was reversed on the new filter. I found the correct filter, replaced it, and now the car runs fine.
Crazy, but check your filter and make sure the outflow (should be stamped on the metal "OUT" is pointing toward the engine. I saw the old/incorrect filter and the new filter side by side and they look identical except the flow direction "OUT" was reversed. I think GM may have changed the guts inside the filter and may have a one way valve in the filter that is starving the engine if the wrong one is used.
Hope that helps.
Dan
I have tried everything to open my hatchback;
I tried the push button inside the car;
I tried opening it with the key outside the car,
and I even tried manually to open it but to no
avail.
It just won't open; I even checked the fuses.
What to do; do anybody know?
--jefforyb--
The only lights that comes on are the ones when
I start the engine .
Anyone have advice?
The plug is just above midline of the differential, on the passengers side.
You can get a suction draw and get the fluid out that way, but you won't get all the fluid, and you won't get the small amount of metal out of the bottom of the diff.
Jim
I hope this helps... TJ
Also, what is the black box at the rear drivers side that two fuel lines run into? I know its not the pump.
Thanks
The little box at the back is the evaporative emissions charcoal canister. Filters the fumes from the tank and fuel injection.